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Copyright © Dan A. Nelson/The Mountaineers Books Ape Caves
The primates that gave their name to two lava tubes found along this trail weren't monkeys-they were members of a 1950s outdoor club who found and explored the tubes. They called themselves the Mount St. Helens Apes, and the lava tubes became known as their caves. The tubes are long tunnels in the thick lava beds; they run roughly parallel to the surface of the land. Interpretive signs line both the trail through the forest and the tubes' mouths. The lower tube is the easiest (but still requires a certain amount of care) and the upper tube is larger. It is not possible to hike in the caves the entire length between the two entrances. Descending into the tubes requires a jacket-it's a constant, cool 42 degrees under the earth, regardless of what happens on the surface-and a powerful flashlight or lantern. The tube beds are rough and uneven.
Note: Powerful flashlights with well-charged batteries or a strong lantern are required for walking in the caves. Do not try to explore these spots without a good light. A pleasant, flat 1.3-mile trail through the old forest links the two lava tubes and leads from the trailhead to these underworld entrances. This trail leads through wonderful old forests. About 1 mile out, the trail passes a small crack in the ground. This "skylight" allows hikers to peer into the caves and allows cave explorers to see a bit of sunlight. The trail ends at the upper cave entrance.
Driving Directions:
From Cougar, drive east on Forest Road 90 just 1 mile beyond the Swift Dam, and turn left (north) onto FR 83. Drive 2 miles on FR 83 and turn left onto FR 8303. Continue for 1 mile on FR 8303 to the trailhead on the right. Recent Trip Reports
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Ape Caves, Ape Canyon
— Sep 02, 2012
— Ydain
Day hike
Issues:
Mud/Rockslide | No water source
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This was our first trip to the Ape Caves though I'd been wanting to go for quite some time. We got t...
This was our first trip to the Ape Caves though I'd been wanting to go for quite some time. We got there at 11 and the parking lots were already full and ppl were parking down the road so the cave was already quite highly populated. The other groups were all polite, the slower ppl letting us pass just as we let the faster folks pass us. We hiked upper and started at the entrance near the interpretive center and worked our way up.
We were prepared with jackets, gloves, sturdy boots, headlamps & spare flashlights. Batteries are good to bring too as we ran into more than one person whose batteries had died and were relying on others for light. Gave most of our spares out but withheld one set for ourselves. I picked up the previously mentioned beer cans along the way, and my pack was full of trash by the time I got to the end. I'm surprised that with as many rangers as I saw around the interpretive center they didn't assign one to make a clean up run through the place on a daily basis. Maybe check for bodies along the way! I can't believe how many people were dragging their young children through the upper cave which is clearly marked as being not recommended for young children. Once I made it through there was a good-sized crowd milling around the head of the stairway to climb out. No one wanted to come down, they just wanted to stand there and look into the cave, take pictures, etc. Would be nice if people would realize that the people coming out of the cave have been in the dark for 2-4 hours and give them a little room to climb out without having to squeeze by. As much fun as I had, this place is dangerous. You will be climbing over rocks and boulders through pitch blackness for a mile and a half or 2-4 hours depending on your speed. There are lots of cracks and crevices just waiting for a foot or leg to slip into and twist or break. I can't imagine how many rescues they must carry out of here each year. My husband had to gently coax one child out of a complete and total screaming meltdown at the foot of the second big climb. He was terrified and crying and did not want to go any further, but had already passed the 8 ft wall and couldn't go back either. People were backed up in both directions waiting and this poor kid was just stuck. I would NOT recommend this hike for children under 12 and even then only if they're relatively athletic kids.
Ape Caves
— Aug 31, 2012
— RocDoc
Day hike
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We started the drive from Puyallup through Randall to get to the Ape Caves early. Stopped at Windy ...
We started the drive from Puyallup through Randall to get to the Ape Caves early. Stopped at Windy Ridge for a look at the mountain and log-filled Spirit Lake on the way down, but made it to the Ape Caves parking lot early enough that there was plenty of parking available.
We chose to go the opposite route that most people were choosing, hiking to the upper cave entrance and then exploring the cave from the top to the main entrance. In retrospect, I'm glad we did so as there were many groups going the other way and we would have almost certainly gotten stuck behind slower groups. The caves are awesome with amazing rock features throughout. I would consider gloves and sturdy boots a must for the upper cave section, although I saw plenty of sandals and thin shoes in the groups we came across. I was surprised as we made our way down to the main entrance the number of people we passed that had no idea as to what conditions were ahead. Several groups that had traveled less than 30 minutes in from the main entrance were expecting to reach the upper end of the cave at any time after traversing only a small number of the 20+ rock piles along the way. We met several groups with small children or elderly members who were struggling with even the easier portions of the cave system and who seemed to be unaware that more difficult obstacles (including climbing over the 8 foot lava fall) were yet to come. More than one group contained sandal-shod, t-shirt wearing teens and twenty-somethings that recalled completing the upper section in less than an hour in the past. Their groups seemed surprised when we indicated to them that we were nearly two hours in from the upper entrance. When we got to the main entrance, I realized the reason for some of the confusion. Some idiot scraped away the "1" from the 1-1/2 mile length of the upper trail on the sign posted at the bottom of the stairs. The sign now shows that the upper cave is only 1/2 mile in length. Probably the same idiot who drank beer and smoked cigarettes all the way down, leaving his beer cans and butts along the way. Thanks, jerk. Hope your sign destruction doesn't lead to hordes of unprepared groups heading up and getting injured in the upper cave. Of course, much of this would be avoided if more groups would study the intended hike on wta.org before starting out! Great site and tons of useful information. Thanks for maintaining the awesome site!
Ape Caves
— Jul 21, 2012
— Sonja
Day hike
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It was very crowded on a Saturday morning but we noticed that most people opt for the lower/shorter ...
It was very crowded on a Saturday morning but we noticed that most people opt for the lower/shorter tube. We encountered 4-5 other parties during the 1.5 miles in the upper cave.
We had only headlamps, which are good for illuminating where you're walking but poor at showing the entire cave. After two hours underground, my headlamp was dying and we were glad to have a lantern as a backup in the pack. Next time, I'd bring taller boots (with ankle support) and leather gloves as there is quite a bit of scrambling over wet rock piles. There is also one 8' wall halfway through that requires scaling. Evidently there was a rope at one point, but it is not longer in place and there is only one meager foot hold. I'm 5'7" and would have had a tough time getting up it without a hand from my husband. Or a boost from behind. We also had a toddler in a backpack and he had a ball although there were several spots that were low and required my husband to do some pretty careful navigation as to not bump the baby's noggin. Definitely not a recommended route for young hikers. I've heard that the lower cave is ideal for kids as it's pretty flat and doesn't have many rock piles. The hike back to the parking lot is quite pretty. Day hike
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The main parking lot wasn't full yet at 10am, but the area already felt like a zoo. After following ...
The main parking lot wasn't full yet at 10am, but the area already felt like a zoo. After following a brief, mildly interesting ranger-led tour, we walked down the lower cave (until the ceiling was low enough to require crawling), and then back past the main entrance through the upper cave to the upper entrance (for a total of about 4.5 miles underground).
I felt my Black Diamond Icon headlight was barely strong enough. Also, I would bring a helmet next time: There were several piles of rock that had to be scrambled over, and 2 or 3 "lava falls" that had to be climbed (one using a short rope). The rock wasn't slippery, but I was glad we went uphill rather than down. Visiting the caves on a busy day is not a good idea: You keep getting blinded by oncoming headlights and camera flashes (making it harder for your eyes to adjust to the dark), and slow, large groups cause congestion in the upper cave. Photos: http://picasaweb.google.com/eric.jain/ApeCavesAugust2011 Tracklog (outside trail): http://connect.garmin.com/activity/108741090 |
![]() The hand-over-hand descent into the Ape Cave lava tube. Photo: Janice Van Cleve
2012
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