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Backbone Ridge

Last modified Jan 03, 2010 06:09 PM
Contributors: Christopher Cote
Photo courtesy of user Howie.

This is a nice woods trail, but only few views reward the hiker until she/he arrives at Stevens Canyon road in Mt. Rainier N. P. Trail starts alongside a grassy rock slab and works its way to the top of the ridge.

The trail starts alongside a grassy rock slab and works its way to the top of the ridge. In 0.6 mi, a short side trail descends to the right to Backbone Lake, a less attractive, tree-choked hole filled with water. The shoreline is all brushy, no camps. There used to be a trail sign at the junction, but only the 4x4 post remains. Someone carved the letters LAKE-> into a tree.

Continue up and at ~1 mi. enjoy a short view of the Coal Creek woods on the south side of Hwy. 12. At ~ 2 mi. cross an open area on a rock slab with a nice view of Tatoosh Pk. In early summer, a few orchids bloom here. The trail drops a bit and then continues to ascend to the N. P. boundary at Stevens Canyon Hwy. Proceed only if you have paid the entry fee or have an annual pass. The trail emerges east of the cut opposite a large parking area. A picnic on one of the tables west of the cut will be a reward for this hike, with a nice view of the mountain.

The adventuresome hiker can look for a continuation of the Backbone Ridge trail (now abandoned and no longer shown on maps) on N. P. land, entering the woods at the upper end of the parking lot, just east of the cut. 6.6 miles roundtrip, elevation gain 1750 ft inbound, 220 ft. outbound, high point 2900 ft.

As of July 2004, a Trail Pass was no longer required at this trail head.

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Recent Trip Reports

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There are 8 trip reports for this hike. See all trip reports for this hike.
Backbone Ridge — Aug 28, 2008 — Anon.
Day hike
Issues: Blowdowns | Bugs
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We previously explored the north end of this trail, from its intersection with the Wonderland Trail. We wanted to explore...

We previously explored the north end of this trail, from its intersection with the Wonderland Trail. We wanted to explore the portion from the intersection with the Stevens Canyon Road northward. There's an obvious trailhead just to the east of the point where the road cuts through Backbone Ridge, but no sign. This appears to be a new segment, built after the road interrupted the old trail. We followed it about 100 ft. up onto the ridge, where it seemed to fade out. We had to look a few feet to the west to find the old trail. This is in generally good condition, but concealed in spots by a thick layer of hemlock cones and needles. The trail surface is smooth, without the mud-holes, eroded spots and tree roots found on the Park's heavily used trails. The trail follows the ridge top, staying slightly to the west, so there was little danger of getting lost. There are almost no cut logs to help locate the trail in places where it's faint; instead, there are old logs partially worn away by decades of hikers climbing over them. We didn't see any reason that this trail couldn't be followed all the way up the ridge to the Wonderland Trail. No longer shown on maps, the trail is described in the Mountaineers' ""50 Hikes"" guidebook. We also found it on a USGS map displayed in the Ohanapecosh Visitors Center. Other parties: None. Wildlife: None, except for bugs. Flowers: None.

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Backbone Ridge #164 — Apr 13, 2008 — Clarko
Day hike
Issues: Bridge out
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A little sun and itchy feet make for a spring hike. Backbone lake has always been a good low elevation...

A little sun and itchy feet make for a spring hike. Backbone lake has always been a good low elevation choice, not this time. We parked on FR 1270 not far from Hiway 12 at a gate signed ""road closed 1/2 mile ahead"". No problem, we would just add a little road walk to the short hike up to the lake. Just a few hundred yards from the gate was a sign on the bridge over the Clear fork of the Cowlitz stating the bridge was closed even to foot traffic and a promise of a $135 fine if caught crossing it. We dropped down to the river and crossed under the bridge. Sure enough a huge crack in the concrete bridge had it sagging down, the asphalt approach was also buckled. So to make a long story short and maybe save someone else a little gas money, the trail is not accessable from the south until the bridge is repaired. The north end is also out of the question until the Stevens canyon hiway into the park opens up. Hiway 123 was closed at the park entrance by snow.

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Backbone Ridge — Aug 16, 2007 — Howie
Day hike
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I hiked an enjoyable portion of the backbone trail (#164, aka the Backbone Lake Trail or Backbone Ridge Trail) this...

I hiked an enjoyable portion of the backbone trail (#164, aka the Backbone Lake Trail or Backbone Ridge Trail) this Thursday, from the Stevens Canyon road in Mt. Rainier Park (10T 0607202 5173520), to the semi-bald knob above Backbone Lake, and back; about 5 miles round trip with several ups and downs. The weather was perfect for a forest walk, cool and cloudy. This segment of the trail is in good shape with only minimal blowdown that can be stepped over or around. It's a darn shame that this wonderful woodland trail, along a route once used by Taidnapam Indians, now seems to be completely abandoned from end to end. Jody's Bridge on FR 1270 was damaged in last year's storms, and the Forest Service doesn't have any funds to fix or replace it, even with a foot-log. You can swim or canoe across the swimming hole there when the water isn't running too high and fast, but crossing the bridge isn't allowed, even on foot, and can result in a ticket. The trail is no longer listed on the Gifford Pinchot National Forest web site.

The upper portion, north of Stevens Canyon road in Mt. Rainier National Park, was abandoned decades ago, and is rapidly fading away from lack of use. Last time I tried it, about a month ago, I could only follow it about a mile before it seemed to be completely gone, at 10T 0607128 5175011. There are blazes on some trees, but they are old and mostly healed. However, there is another trail segment, also abandoned, starting further east along the Stevens Canyon road, at the southern tip of a secondary ridge leading up Cowlitz divide. It's a little easier to follow, but still faint. It intersects with the old Backbone Ridge Trail, and there are still 2 trail signs at the junction (10 T 0608026 5176290). If you continue north and manage to stay on the trail you will come out on a large open rock formation (10T 0607955 5177202) with expansive views of Mt. Adams, Mt. Rainier, some of the Goat Rocks, and a panorama of the Tatoosh Range (see photo). But if you stray too far to the east you will be on the wrong side of the steep edge of the formation.

A lower segment, starting at the old trailhead by the Muddy Fork, where the asphalt ends, was also abandoned when the trailhead was moved further up, to the end of the dirt road. This segment is not too difficult to follow at the present but will probably fade away now that hunters and campers can no longer easily access the area.

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Backbone Ridge #164 — Apr 16, 2007 — Backcountry Horsemen of Washington - Lewis Co Chapter
Day hike
Issues: Bridge out
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The Jody's Bridge for access to the Backbone Ridge Trail #164 trailhead was heavily damaged by winter runoff. The bridge...

The Jody's Bridge for access to the Backbone Ridge Trail #164 trailhead was heavily damaged by winter runoff. The bridge is closed to traffic and foot traffic that is caught crossing the bridge is being ticketed.

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Backbone Ridge #164 — Jul 15, 2006 — Captain Crush
Day hike
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We took Forest Road 1270 3 miles up to the Backbone Lake Trail Head. We got started around 9am. The...

We took Forest Road 1270 3 miles up to the Backbone Lake Trail Head. We got started around 9am. The hike is STEEP up to a fork in the trail and the dogs were taking the lead. We were looking to go to Backbone Lake, so we took the right fork and had a short, down hill hike to the lake. We heard some people talking so we followed the trail around the lake and met two guys fishing for crawfish. Don't know if they caught anything, but it sounded like they we having a good time. The dogs sniffed around a campsite that appeared to have been recently used. (Don't campers know that they are not supposed to leave anything behind?) We continued around the lake and back up the hill and returned to the car. It took about an hour.

This is a short steep hike. About 2.5 - 3 miles total. Great if you only have a little bit of time. The dogs had a great time running through the forest. The trail was in good condition. No mud No bugs.

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Location
Backbone Ridge (#164)
South Cascades
2.25 out of 5
Based on 4 votes
Roundtrip 6.6 miles
Elevation Gain 1750 ft
Highest Point 2900 ft
Features
Lakes
Ridges/passes
Established campsites
Guidebooks & Maps
Green Trails #302: Packwood
USGS Ohanapecosh Hot Springs

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Driving Directions

Enter FS #1270 off SR12, ca. 3 mi. E. of Packwood or 1.5 mi. W. of La Wis Wis C. G., cross the bridge over the Clear Fork of the Cowlitz River, drive past a riverbank camp area at the end of asphalt pavement. The riverbank camp was the site of extensive ORV and target practice activity, but the Forest Service is trying to eliminate these uses. Some people camp here for free. Continue 2 mi on gravel road to the end of FS #1270.

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