A moderately difficult hike to a large subalpine lake frequented by many of its namesake critters or an all-day challenging grunt to perhaps the most beautiful viewpoint in the Olympics. This is the famed High Divide country, a land of sparkling alpine lakes, resplendent alpine meadows, and awe-inspiring alpine views. Usually reserved for backpackers with time to explore, strong and tenacious day hikers can get a small taste.

Deer Lake: The hike to both Deer Lake and Bogachiel Peak starts off easy enough on a 0.8-mile nearly level sojourn through spectacular old growth to pretty Sol Duc Falls. Then the party's over and it's time to work. Cross the Sol Duc, pass the Lovers Lane Trail, and commence to climb. On a steep, sometimes rocky path work your way up the dark ravine housing Canyon Creek. At 1.5 miles, cross high above the tumbling waterway on a wide and sturdy bridge. After another 0.5 mile the grade eases somewhat.

After another push, cross Canyon Creek once more, this time at the outlet to Deer Lake (elev. 3550 feet). Nestled in a forested and grassy bowl, the lake's waters reflect a soft green. Surrounded by yellow cedar, mountain hemlock, silver fir, and a thick understory of huckleberries, it's a pretty and serene spot. Deer often browse along the lakeshore and it's not uncommon to see them in the shallow lake as well.

A backcountry ranger station and multiple campsites can also be found at the lake. A rough path circles the lake and reveals a smaller hidden "fawn"lake. Call it a day here or carry on to higher ground.

Bogachiel Peak: For Bogachiel Peak, continue past the lake, bear left at a junction, and climb to more-open country. Winding through heather fields, subalpine forest, and by a dozen pothole tarns (a.k.a. mosquito incubators), the trail works it way up to the high ridge dividing the Sol Duc and Bogachiel watersheds. Alternating between groves of mountain hemlock and open meadows, the trail continues to climb. Far-reaching views across rainforest valleys all the way to the Pacific can now be had.

Look for what guidebook writer Robert Wood called the snake pit. It's a cluster of contorted mountain hemlocks resembling a serpentine lair. The trail soon rounds the ridge crest, working its way around a high isolated basin, headwaters of the Bogachiel River. Mount Olympus peeks its icy head over the next ridge, and Bogachiel Peak-still a ways away-beckons. In September, bugling elk from down below can often be heard. And it's not rare to run into berry-munching bears, so be aware.

Drop into a big rocky depression where a trail descends to Seven Lakes Basin, one of the prettiest spots this side of Shangri-la. Next, on steep open slopes, angle around Bogachiel Basin. Snow often persists well into summer here, making it potentially dangerous to proceed. After a series of tight switchbacks, reach the ridge crest (elev. 5100 feet). Bogachiel Peak is reached via a short side trail a short distance left on the High Divide Trail.

While you clamber to bag the 5474-foot former lookout site, no doubt the incredible views by this time will have bowled you over. They are beyond breathtaking. The alpine jewels of the Seven Lakes Basin shimmer below. The snow-capped Bailey Range marches off into the eastern horizon. The emerald swath of the Hoh rain forest spreads out nearly 1 vertical mile below. And rising above it all, staring you right in the face, is Mount Olympus. Its glaciers and snowfields are blinding on a sunny summer day.

It doesn't get any more spectacular than this. It was on Bogachiel Peak in September 1989 when I first fell in love with the Olympics. How could I not?