After a 3 pm start went to the Ice Lakes via the Carne-Leroy trail (Aug 5-7). From Phelps Creek took the Carne Mountain trail. Got water in the basin below Carne and camped night one at the old lookout site. Next day proceeded to the pass between Carne and the lookout peak and continued over to a sign that indicated trail to the right (Rock Creek Trail). I went straight instead on the Carne-Leroy. This is one fine trail! Much better than going across on the Phelps Creek Freeway. Views and flowers, water and camping. Trail in great shape to Chipmunk Creek where the high route begins. Hike up Chipmunk Creek to upper basin and to obvious saddle on left to find trail again over to below pass to Ice Lakes. This is actually another saddle but a short scramble brings one to above the lakes. Camped at upper Ice. Next morning to car in 4.5 hrs. 3 days/ 2 nights 5000'+ in, 1500' out, 19 miles total.

I didn’t realize how much I was missing eastern Washington until cresting Stevens Pass and beginning that long coaster-ride toward endlessly blue skies, where the soil, a bit barer and lighter in color, reflects the heat right into one’s eyeballs. That longing further translates into the razzing call of the Clark’s Nutcracker, the metallic bug sounds outside the tent at night, or the dust rising about our boots as we climbed, smelling of piney brown sugar with a hint of vanilla. I especially love the sound of wind in larches; it has a lonesome quality that reminds me of those old westerns; picture a grizzled desperado filmed from about waist level, his shoulders and head framed by cloudless sky, thirsty, so very thirsty. The restless wind Hollywood soundtrack completes the image; vast unpeopled space. Anyway, that is the fantasy. Kristine and I saw four people, all while passing through Carne basin area.

We made our pilgrimage back to that lonesome ridgeline beyond Carne Mountain. The appeal has always been solitude you can bank on. And for good reason, the trail is used only by deer and bears as far as I can tell. Our ridgelette camp overlooking Rock Creek has evidence of historical usage, but probably tracing back to horse packers supplying the former LOs of the area (Carne Mtn. and Estes Butte). The trusty snow bank was there for our water, but barely; it was littered with larch needles and some pollen-like bugs that required bandana filtering, or closing one’s eyes while drinking. Kristine did not like that part. Friday was wonderfully cool for our ascent. Bugs started requiring daily application of DEET by late Saturday morning when the temperature warmed. But there were never more than a few hovering at any one time, quite pleasant.

Kristine and I explored the ridgeline from Carne pass to point 7811’. The summit looked a bit too troublesome so we traversed to a pass south of 7811’. It was a broad pumice plain overlooking Ice Lakes and Entiat drainages. On the return we avoided some difficult ridgeline rock and took a trail on the north side of the ridge. It was a descending traverse, connecting handily with the Leroy High Route just (150’) below its passage from the Rock Creek drainage. There was a nice camp on the gentle part of the ridge at about 6400’ with plenty of needle-free snow; I plan on staying there next time we are back in the area. I also found evidence of another higher Leroy High Route trail departing the ridge at about 6550’. I want to explore that as well. An arrow constructed of stones set in grassy meadow indicates the departure point.

Having spent 14 nights in the mountains in the past month, I am ready to stay home for a weekend. Time for sloth, comforts, and catching up on some backpacking tasks; I want to be prepared for August and September when wilderness and unknown places call with a longing I know I can’t resist.

It would be hard to come up with enough superlatives for the hike, the day, THE LARCHES, the snow.........

Suffice it to say - it was a great day for this hike and the larches were perfect.

Snow pretty much all the way from Carne Basin to the summit. Not a lot, but it was there. The snow provided a perfect framing for these splendid trees.

And turning a phrase - it was an ""exaltation of larches!""

The Phelps Creek trailhead parking lot was nearly full when I arrived about 9:30 on this Friday morning. I scored a spot down the road a ways and walked back. To my surprise, all the registry destinations were listed as Spider Meadow/Gap, so I was the first to sign on for Carne Mt. Weather was perfect, warm enough to feel like summer but a nice breeze to allow shirt-sleeve hiking. This was my third time to Carne, but the first time to go solo.

The trail is in great shape. Earlier reported blowdowns have been cleared. There is one new small blowdown as you approach the basin but it's an easy step-over.

The views from the saddle or the summit are incredible! The summit is worth the extra views and only a short jaunt up. If you make the final push to the summit, there are two boot-paths. The right one fades out and you will end up scrambling uphill to regain the trail. So keep to the left - on top of the ridge - and you'll get to the summit without a problem.

Wildflowers are far past prime except just near the summit where the paintbrush and mountain daisies are still in full display.

There were lots of bugs - I could see them. But for whatever reason, they didn't seem hungry for human blood and didn't molest me. I had Deet with me but didn't need to apply it. Interestingly, there were ""millions"" of grasshoppers jumping in a ten foot radius around me as I walked both below and above the basin.

The absence of hiking-buddy conversation led me to be more aware of the environment - birds chirping, the sound of creaking trees bending in the breeze, the sounds of moving water. I enjoy hiking with friends, but enjoyed the solitude this day. I saw no humans from the time I left TH until half-way down on the return. Had the summit to myself for nearly an hour.