Duckabush RiverRecent Trip Reports
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Duckabush River
— Jun 20, 2011
— Bad Water
Multi-night backpack
Issues:
Blowdowns | Mudholes
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Spent three days in the green world of the Duckabush. We had never been beyond Big Hump before, and we...
Spent three days in the green world of the Duckabush. We had never been beyond Big Hump before, and we quickly discovered that we had been missing a great Olympic river hike. The trail is clear and in great shape up to the park boundary, thanks to the WTA trail crew. That changes once you enter the park, where downed trees occur at regular intervals, especially in the section through the 2009 burn. There is also a tangle of at least a dozen large downed trees about a mile upstream from Ten Mile Camp. All the blowdown is negotiable in one way or another with an overnight pack on.
We stayed two nights at a nice site on the river a little less than eight miles in--less than half an hour past the park boundary at 6.7 miles. On the middle day we hiked to about two miles beyond Ten Mile, where we encountered the first stream crossing that would require wet feet and decided that would be a good place to turn around. At that point we passed a couple of hikers coming from Upper Duckabush Camp, who said that they started finding snow on the trail at about 2400 feet and that the camp was mostly snow-covered. They had crossed the river on a fallen tree, as the water is high--they thought about waist-deep at the ford. Apparently the creek crossings also get wetter past the point where we met them. Ten Mile Camp is beautiful and was not affected by the burn, which ends about a quarter mile before it. The burn itself was interesting to see. The fire burned away the undergrowth and smaller trees but just scorched most of the big trees, whose crowns are still green, though in a couple of steep sections the damage seems worse and some big trees might come down. You go in and out of the burn for maybe a mile and a half. The trail is on the edge of it a lot of the time, and some large sections by the river were untouched. Saw one elk and no bear but lots of scat. Still almost no mosquitoes out. Multi-night backpack
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The problem is that every spring I forget. I forget the serenity of birdsong, or the neutral taste of clean...
The problem is that every spring I forget. I forget the serenity of birdsong, or the neutral taste of clean air and water. I forget the feeling of civilized tensions/small concerns unraveling in my mind; the absence of that background hum of stress we all learn to live with. I also forget the amount of effort it takes to get anywhere worthwhile: the decisions, the route-finding, and of course all that sweaty heavy breathing.
It has been 3 years since I’ve visited this early-season favorite, staying away mostly because of poor spring weather and reduced ferry service. Despite the familiarity of seven years of visits, I still enjoy the practice of seeing with new eyes. Capturing some of that Duckabush magnificence in digital was certainly worthy enough. I had two nights and one Earth Day to get re-acquainted. It is a grand drive from Bellingham, over steel-linked islands (Fidalgo, Whidbey), past harbor communities and sleepy towns, until arriving at tide-ripped waters separating the peninsula from the rest of Washington. I did not realize the reservation system had been retained after the county ferry had been retired, but standby had me quickly aboard the 10:15. The new boat, The Chetzemoka, is well-designed, quiet, and smooth. I must admit to missing the rhythm-section under the rusted decks of the old ferry, like a demon drum-circle setting the pace for unseen rowers. While standing on the aft deck I saw a singular marine mammal feeding in the rip-line. It was dark, large-porpoise-sized with a tiny dorsal, Minke whale? Such things have a way of restoring forgotten bonds with this forgiving planet. The ride across was a thrill as usual: watching the peninsular range in morning light; the boney grins of clear-cuts highlighted by new snow; the grimy steam of a pulp mill at the end of a serene bay, made small beneath the white capstone of the Olympics. I was gladly made small as well, and this is how I started at the trailhead. Cold showers on the the hike in; perfect lighting for green things. There are plenty of these along the trail so I spent lots of time looking down at the verdant margins of the tread, sometimes littered with rusting logging relics. I’ve written in the past about the welcoming murmur of The Duck as I crest Little Hump; here is where The Wilderness has been salvaged from industrial appetites. Happily the river still works its charm. I did notice that the roar seemed more subdued than in past years, reminding me of the Great White Threat yet-to-be-released on the slopes above. Despite the destruction it could unleash, I am one of those cheering on a warm rain event to pave the way for higher ventures. Mossy/grassy balds on Big Hump account for the early season appeal; views up and down the river valley are from the highest point. After much exploring, I finally found a reliable water source on top of Big Hump. It is a small tarn, but deep enough to be a source through early summer. The terrain also has enough level area to accommodate a tent or two before tumbling steeply off into the Duckabush gorge. Free time was spent contemplating birdsong, the roar of The Duck de-fanged by vertical space, and the texture of Old-Growth forest, quilled with silver snags. There were thrushes, kinglets, hummers, woodpeckers, and great dark soaring birds with black marking on leading edge of wings. The call was high-pitched (turkey vulture, golden eagle?). I also wandered the enchanted forest trail to Fivemile camp to photograph the topaz pools of the river. If one follows a way-trail 100 yards upstream from dirt-patch camps you will come to a lovely beach camp. If I were a riverside camper this is where I would stay, but the shadowed tumult is not for me. I will return to that high vantage on Big Hump. It will be on a spring weekend when I need it most, a reminder of what hibernation can wring out of a NW soul. Arise, and Happy Trails to all! Day hike
Issues:
Mudholes | Water on trail | Snow on trail
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What a rainy day! But with great hiking companions and a beautiful trail, the rain couldn't dampen our spirits. We...
What a rainy day! But with great hiking companions and a beautiful trail, the rain couldn't dampen our spirits. We hiked to Five Mile Camp (10.6 miles round trip), up over Little Hump and then Big Hump and boy are my calves sore. The views from Big Hump are wonderful!! I have not seen pictures that do the views justice. There was lots of water on the trail but not a lot of mud holes. It is a trail that goes over a lot of rocky ground which is great for rainy weather. Past Big Hump there was snow still on the ground in patches but not much on the trail. The Duckabush river is absolutely beautiful! Lots of big moss covered boulders in beautiful teal water. This is a great spring hike because of it's lower elevation and good trail condition. I highly recommend it!
Day hike
Features:
Fall foliage
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The road to the trailhead is in great condition and the trail to Big Hump is as well. In...
The road to the trailhead is in great condition and the trail to Big Hump is as well. In spite of some sprinkles had a great early morning hike with a really nice view down the valley from the ledge at Big Hump.
This hike is an easy day trip with a gradual decent through a very nice second growth then, finally, old growth forest. There are some nice waterfalls along the way. Overnight
Features:
Wildflowers blooming
Issues:
Blowdowns | Water on trail
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Great hike, nice trail. A few areas of mud but not deep. Large, old growth blowdown over trail at about...
Great hike, nice trail. A few areas of mud but not deep. Large, old growth blowdown over trail at about mile 11 or so. A few smaller blowdowns along the way.
I intended to camp at Ten Mile Camp but it was pretty unimpressive, just a bump in the trail, assuming I was at the right spot. Maybe I hadn't gone far enough. I backtracked to about 8 miles in where there is a very nice campsite next to the river with lots of tent space. No bears but I wore a bell and had my trusty bear pepper spray on my belt just in case . I saw one elk fairly close to the trail at around Ten Mile Camp just before you get to the forest fire area. No other hikers on Thursday, a few on Friday. |
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