The approach to the Dungeness Wildlife Refuge is well-signed from Highway 101 and easy to find. The .5 mile trail down to the beach features many educational signs about the birds and animals and the ecosystem of that environment.

My companions and I were fortunate enough to pick one of the hottest days of the summer for this hike. On the beach it was bright and sunny, but with the breeze, only comfortably warm. We started out just before low tide along the wide expanse of beach. The best walking was about the middle, where the sand was smooth and firm. Higher up there were swarms of bugs (sand fleas?) around every piece of washed up seaweed and driftwood. We watched groups of various gulls flocked together at the water’s edge who did not take flight as we marched past them. Out on the water there were ships passing by, and beyond them light blue mounds of islands and land masses. Spin around, and there were the majestic Olympics.

We walked and walked and walked, yearning for a sight of the lighthouse. Finally, it came in view, but soon the firm sand gave way to gravel and soft sand. Even though you could see the lighthouse, it was still a couple of miles away. We kept plugging along, and finally made it. What a delightful prospect it is! After we rested and ate, we took the tour, climbing the many steps plus ladder to a viewing deck. We also perused the historical displays and information. We thought it might be a fun way to spend a week, being a tour guide out there.

Well, the tide was coming in and we had to hustle back. Since I was wearing my Keen sandals, I had a great time walking along in the edge of the water some of the time. Waves had built up, resulting in the musical sound of crashing surf. As we were driven higher up the beach, the walking wasn’t so easy, but we reveled in the sights and sounds of this magnificent shore.

My husband and I have been wanting to trying the beach walk to the Dungeness Spit Lighthouse for quite some time, so when we realized we needed to be out that direction this weekend anyway, we decided it to take advantage of the opportunity and go for it. We were not disappointed!

We arrived at the campground at Dungeness Recreation Area at about 1pm on the 3rd, which was a Thursday. We didn't have a reserved site, but found several available when we got there. By the time we got back from the lighthouse that evening, the entire campground was full with campers who appeared to be staying the weekend, so we were glad we chose to come out on Thursday instead of waiting for Friday. We strongly suspect there would have been no sites available if we'd waited. Camping was $20 per site, per night, so we paid for a couple of nights, set up camp, threw on our boots and headed down the wooded path from the campsites to the trailhead.

We didn't realize that there was actually a separate $3 entrance fee (per family) for access to the trail, beyond the camping fee, until we got to the trailhead. If you are camping, be sure to stick a few extra dollars in your pocket to pay at the trailhead! We almost had to go back to the campsite to get an extra dollar, but the volunteer at the trailhead said we could join another "family" and get in under their entrance fee, which was very sweet of her, and of them! And with that, we were off.

We started down the trail at about 3pm. With high tide due at 5-ish, we were advised that we probably shouldn't try to go all the way out to the lighthouse. But it was a gorgeous, hot, sunny day and we knew we had enough daylight to wait out the tide if necessary, so we went for it. We stopped about half a mile into the hike to have a quick lunch, and then continued down the trail. There were lots of families and young children in the first mile or two, but the trail got considerably less populated after that. The waves crashing on our left, the beautiful driftwood on our right and the islands and mountains all around made for an absolutely gorgeous hike. The sand was fairly rocky most of the way, but it wasn't too difficult to hike in at all. There were swarms of dark bugs that moved like waves about 4 inches over the sand, but they left us alone and were actually pretty cool to watch. There were also huge flocks of seagulls along the trail. I think there were easily upwards of 100 seagulls sitting on the beach at any one time. They would take off en masse as we approached, flying up and around us, which was pretty magical.

I tend to get cold very easily, but on the hike out, I wished I'd opted for shorts instead of pants - it was that warm. The light sea breeze helped cool things off a bit, but it was very warm and there was really no shade to duck into. I think this is fairly unusual for the area, but something to keep in mind if you'll be there on a hot day.

The lighthouse itself was amazing. What a fascinating bit of history! We really enjoyed the tour given by the lighthouse keepers. And the bathroom is worth mentioning - it was easily the nicest bathroom I've ever seen on any hike in my life. Lace curtains, Dyson Airblade hand dryer and all! There was a fantastic bench right at the end of the trail that we sat on to have a little snack and take in the scenery. All too quickly, though, it was time to head back. At about 5pm, so right at high tide, we started back towards the trailhead.

The hike back was much, much colder. The sea mist rolled in, the wind picked up and the sun started to go down a bit, and where it had maybe been a bit too warm on the way in, it quickly became much too cold (for me - I am particularly sensitive to cold.) I put on a fleece jacket, hat and gloves, but was still so chilled by the time we got back that I had to sit in the car with the heater on for a while to warm up. However, the hike was still gorgeous, and in a totally different way, with the waves crashing harder and the mist rolling in over the hills. There was a fairly long stretch of the hike back where we could neither see the lighthouse nor the trailhead, despite it being an essentially treeless expanse, because of the sea mist. It was beautiful and serene, and we thoroughly enjoyed it, despite the cold. (My husband said he was not really cold at all, but where I am ultra-sensitive to cold, he is probably not sensitive enough to it... your experience of the temperature may likely lie somewhere between the two of us!)

All in all, it was a fantastic hike and we'd definitely do it again!

The Spit is a must do - miles of beach, pretty stones, sparkling water, warm sand, birds (we saw gulls, black oystercatchers, coots, Caspian tern, sandpipers, a hawk, and more), flowers and grasses, ships and planes, seals, crabs, a rainbow of seaweed, and a lighthouse to climb for great views at the end. The road is paved, the air is fresh and salty - Strait of Juan de Fuca on one side and Dungeness Bay on the other, lots of treasures to relish on the way. This trail is wonderful no matter how far you go. Many seals were frolicking just offshore, following us.

The volunteers manning the lighthouse are knowledgeable and friendly, and the views from the top are great. This would be a wonderful hike any day of the year but was especially enjoyed on this sunny 4th of July. More pics at: http://www.flickr.com/[…]/.

After breakfast with my ‘rents, we headed for the Spit. It’s a nice and easy half mile or so from the parking area to the water. It’s only $3 but I highly recommend getting an interagency pass if you’re out frequently. They’re $80 a year but good at National Parks, BLM, BOR, Forest Service, and Fish and Wildlife managed areas.

The weather was good and so was the tide. It was further out than I think I’ve ever seen it at the Spit. We walked west on the beach, which I hadn’t done in a while. Most people follow the Spit toward the lighthouse, so we had it to ourselves for the most part.

The cliffs are amazing! Right at the base is a blue layer of ancient ocean sediment. It makes great face paint for the kids…or Steph and me! Layers of gravel and sand continue upward showing the geologic history of the area. In one sandy layer we saw old preserved (not petrified yet) logs. My guess is this layer is a remnant of a tsunami.

We ate at the Port Angeles Crabhouse while BC played by the water in view. A traditional Salish canoe was paddled into the tiny bay. It was a cool sight to see. After finishing our drinks, Steph and I joined BC at the water where he showed us a giant starfish that he couldn’t quite touch. We climbed up the observation tower to watch a ferry from Victoria come in and then headed for the car and home.