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Upper Dungeness River

Last modified Oct 25, 2009 04:41 PM
Contributors: Dahlia
The Dungeness River. Photo by Jon Lee.

A delightful hike through ancient timber along the crystal-clear Dungeness River-save this one for a hot or rainy day. Quite possibly the easiest 3.4 miles of wilderness trail in the Olympics, the Upper Dungeness is ideal for introducing neophytes and youngsters to the backcountry. Handy dandy Camp Handy with its restored shelter provides cover on overcast days, allowing you to enjoy your lunch while droplets run down the cedar shingles.

The Upper Dungeness River Trail begins right beside the tumbling and crashing river, never letting it out of eyesight or earshot for the entire journey to Camp Handy. Through a magnificent stand of sentinel Douglas-firs-200 feet tall and several hundred years old-the trail is well sheltered. Embrace its air-conditioning effects on warm sunny days and embrace its protecting qualities on overcast ones.

A couple of times the trail comes close enough to the river to allow mesmerizing glances into its frothy cascading waters. After 1 meditative mile arrive at a junction. The trail right travels 6.5 miles along Royal Creek to Royal Lake. Turn left instead, crossing Royal Creek on a sturdy log bridge, and immediately enter the Buckhorn Wilderness.

Through cool glens of Doug-fir and hemlock, across numerous side creeks, and along seeps spawning salmonberries, the trail parallels the majestic river. Raucous rapids and placid pools entice you to slow down and marvel at the beauty. In 2.6 miles the trail crosses the river. In 2006 the log bridge sustained serious damage from winter runoff. Hopefully the Forest Service has replaced it. If not, cross with caution.

Once across, the trail pulls away from the river, the chattering of resident birds no longer drowned out by the thunderous waterway. At 3.2 miles reach an unmarked junction. Head right to a lovely meadow on the Dungeness, home to Camp Handy. If the weather is agreeable, head to the wide gravel bar for views and feet-soaking. If it's raining, take to the shelter. Be prepared, however, to fend off snack-sneaking chipmunks.

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Recent Trip Reports

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There are 37 trip reports for this hike. See all trip reports for this hike.
Dungeness River, Royal Creek — Nov 15, 2008 — Bob and Barb
Day hike
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The many varieties and abundance of mushrooms along the first mile of the Dungeness Trail made for VERY slow walking...
The many varieties and abundance of mushrooms along the first mile of the Dungeness Trail made for VERY slow walking because of all the images made! There were British Soldiers, Goatsbeard, and many others we couldn't name! We went right at the junction signed Royal Basin and hiked 3-3 1/2 miles along Royal Creek which if not always seen is always heard. What a beautiful creek with many rapids and cascades!The forest, too, is beautiful with a plush carpet of green under many of the trees.
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Dungeness River #833.2,Constance Pass #99 — Aug 12, 2008 — DMH
Day hike
Issues: Bridge out
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Due to the low river level the bridge over the Dungeness is now useable. Just before Camp Handy the trail...

Due to the low river level the bridge over the Dungeness is now useable. Just before Camp Handy the trail splits, the downhill trail leading to the meadows; stay left (the lower trail rejoins the upper in ~300'). The Y trail junction shown near Camp Handy on Green Trail maps is actually about 10 minutes further up the valley; go left, signed ""Marmot Pass"". After the trail junction just before Boulder Camp find a sign ""Home Lake"" in the boulder field before the shelter. Clear sailing after that. 20 mi r.t./ 3300' plus.

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Dungeness River #833.2 — Aug 08, 2008 — stoked
Day hike
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Charlia Lakes Trail: We picked up the trail 300 meters south of Boulder Shelter off the Dungeness Trail. There are...

Charlia Lakes Trail: We picked up the trail 300 meters south of Boulder Shelter off the Dungeness Trail. There are a few overly steep sections and the bush is encroaching in places but only a couple of deadfall. Overall it is a pleasant approach to Charlia Saddle.

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Tubal Cain #840,Dungeness River #833.2,Royal Basin #97,Royal Creek #832 — Jul 21, 2008 — Jen
Day hike
Issues: Bridge out | Bugs
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Two day trip from Tubal Cain (#840) trailhead to the campground at the junction of the Dungeness River and Royal...

Two day trip from Tubal Cain (#840) trailhead to the campground at the junction of the Dungeness River and Royal Creek and a day hike to the Royal Basin.

Day 1: Mid-day start on Tubal Cain, encountered a few other hikers. Great trail through the woods and brief stop at the Tubal Cain Mine. Once we left the trees we had great views up and down the Cooper Creek valley. The wildflowers were out and in abundance. A wonderful first day. Our destination for that day was the camp at Buckhorn Lake. There is a nice sign marking the trail down to the lake. Numerous campsites, but only a small one on the lake shore itself. The lake is beautiful green-blue and entirely melted out. (A special request: If you go there for the night, please bring an extra garbage bag to pack out some trash left by past campers.)

Note about water: If you plan on continuing, the Lake is your last water source until you get through Marmot Pass - either Camp Mystey on the Big Quilcene Trail or Boulder Camp on the Dungeness River Trail.

Day 2: Hiked up from Buckhorn Lake through Marmot Pass, then down to Boulder Camp and finally down Dungeness River Trail to the campsites. The section of trail up from the lake to the pass is steep but the views along the way are worth it. On the other side of Marmot Pass to Camp Handy on the Dungeness River is also very steep. The crossing at the lower end of the Dungeness River Trail is out but not entirely impassible. It looks like a system was rigged up for people to cross, but water is rushing over a 3-foot section of bridge. We could tell that people were crossing from the west side to the east side, since the east side of the bridge was wet. We decided to go farther downstream since there was a well worn trail on the east side of the river, to find another log across the river which we carefully crossed. Cross at your own risk. (The bridge is supposed to be fixed this summer)

Day 3: Day hike to the Royal Basin via the Royal Basin Trail. The trail was in great shape the entire way thanks to the WTA trail crews. We actually met some on our way up working on the rocky sections - Thank you and great job. The bugs started appearing about 4 miles in and continued to the upper basin. There is a well-worn trail to the upper basin and is well worth the one extra mile hike from Royal Lake. Royal Lake is a great swimming hole and isn't too cold but quite refreshing on a warm day, so bring your swimsuit.

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Dungeness River #833.2 — Jun 12, 2008 — Jason
Day hike
Issues: Bridge out
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I intended to hike the Tubal Cain trail but there were a couple of issues. First, I either missed the...

I intended to hike the Tubal Cain trail but there were a couple of issues. First, I either missed the trailhead or it was marked ""Gold Creek #830"". This sign was confusing because according to the map I had I was nowhere near Gold Creek. Second, there was snow along the road not far past this point so the trail is probably still emerging from winter.

I turned back 4 miles and hiked the Dungeness River trail instead. The road to the trailhead is severely potholed in a few spots and it's a long 18 miles from Highway 101 so give yourself time.

The trail was popular on this day. About half the visitors were headed for Royal Basin and the other half continuing along the Dungeness River into the Buckhorn Wilderness.

Trail is in excellent condition for the first 2.5 miles. At that point the footlog across the river is damaged beyond use. There is a notice at the trailhead that it will be replaced this year.

I continued along the west side of the river, bushwhacking on a way trail created by like-minded hikers. It's not easy to follow, but the terrain is forgiving. I don't recommend it unless you're comfortable with potentially losing the trail and having to navigate on your own.

Eventually this way trail (and it's various braids) reach a meadow and then a log crossing just before Camp Handy. I crossed over to the east side of the river here. The way trail continues uphill to the northeast, presumably re-uniting with the original trail, but I made the Camp Handy shelter my turnaround point for the day. This is 5 miles from the trailhead.

I hiked Duckabush the previous week. Compared to that trail, this one has much less interesting flora, but just as excellent river scenery and access if not better. And it's easier. Take your pick.

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Location
Dungeness River (#833.2)
Olympics -- East
Olympic National Forest, Hood Canal Ranger District
4.25 out of 5
Based on 4 votes
Featured In...

Day Hiking: Olympic Peninsula
by Craig Romano

To buy the full book, including maps, elevation profiles, photos, and more, visit:

A portion of all book sales from the links above benefits WTA and helps protect and maintain our trails.

Information about this hike provided in partnership with Mountaineers Books. Copyright © Craig Romano/The Mountaineers Books

Roundtrip 6.8 miles
Elevation Gain 600 ft
Highest Point 3100 ft
Features
Rivers
Old growth
Established campsites
Guidebooks & Maps
Day Hiking: Olympic Peninsula (Romano - Mountaineers Books)
Green Trails Tyler Peak No. 136

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Driving Directions
(47.8779, -123.1369) Open in new window
Red Marker Upper Dungeness River
47.8779333333 -123.13695

From the west end of the Hood Canal Bridge, drive State Route 104 to its end and veer north onto US 101. Proceed 16 miles and turn left onto Louella Road (just before reaching the Sequim Bay State Park entrance). In 1 mile turn left on Palo Alto Road, continuing for 6 miles. Bear right at a junction onto Forest Road 2880. The road descends and crosses the Dungeness River, coming to another junction in 1.7 miles, where you turn left on FR 2870. In 2.6 miles bear right at a junction to continue on FR 2870 (formerly called FR 2860). Continue 6.5 miles to the large parking area just past the Dungeness River Bridge. Privy available.

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