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Upper Dungeness River

Last modified Oct 25, 2009 04:41 PM
Contributors: Dahlia
The Dungeness River. Photo by Jon Lee.

A delightful hike through ancient timber along the crystal-clear Dungeness River-save this one for a hot or rainy day. Quite possibly the easiest 3.4 miles of wilderness trail in the Olympics, the Upper Dungeness is ideal for introducing neophytes and youngsters to the backcountry. Handy dandy Camp Handy with its restored shelter provides cover on overcast days, allowing you to enjoy your lunch while droplets run down the cedar shingles.

The Upper Dungeness River Trail begins right beside the tumbling and crashing river, never letting it out of eyesight or earshot for the entire journey to Camp Handy. Through a magnificent stand of sentinel Douglas-firs-200 feet tall and several hundred years old-the trail is well sheltered. Embrace its air-conditioning effects on warm sunny days and embrace its protecting qualities on overcast ones.

A couple of times the trail comes close enough to the river to allow mesmerizing glances into its frothy cascading waters. After 1 meditative mile arrive at a junction. The trail right travels 6.5 miles along Royal Creek to Royal Lake. Turn left instead, crossing Royal Creek on a sturdy log bridge, and immediately enter the Buckhorn Wilderness.

Through cool glens of Doug-fir and hemlock, across numerous side creeks, and along seeps spawning salmonberries, the trail parallels the majestic river. Raucous rapids and placid pools entice you to slow down and marvel at the beauty. In 2.6 miles the trail crosses the river. In 2006 the log bridge sustained serious damage from winter runoff. Hopefully the Forest Service has replaced it. If not, cross with caution.

Once across, the trail pulls away from the river, the chattering of resident birds no longer drowned out by the thunderous waterway. At 3.2 miles reach an unmarked junction. Head right to a lovely meadow on the Dungeness, home to Camp Handy. If the weather is agreeable, head to the wide gravel bar for views and feet-soaking. If it's raining, take to the shelter. Be prepared, however, to fend off snack-sneaking chipmunks.

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Recent Trip Reports

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There are 37 trip reports for this hike. See all trip reports for this hike.
Upper Dungeness River, Upper Dungeness/Heather Creek — Nov 04, 2009 — txgal
Day hike
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I took advantage of a gorgeous fall day to hit the trail at 1030. Hundreds of different types of mushrooms...
I took advantage of a gorgeous fall day to hit the trail at 1030. Hundreds of different types of mushrooms line the trail this time of year and I vow to learn more about them...maybe this winter. The bridge installed since I last hiked this trail is big and sturdy...another fantastic job by the summer NFS workers. Passed Camp Handy and continued to the junction of Heather Creeek Basin trail to the right and the Marmot Pass trail to the left choosing the lower trail to the right because I had not taken it before and golden cottonwood trees up river beckoned. There were several beautiful campsites in meadows along the river with views up to the head of the valley. I turned back at 2 in order to beat the darkness.
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Upper Dungeness Trail, Charlia Lakes Way Trail — Jul 24, 2009 — Shawn
Day hike
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I hiked both of these trails on July 24th. I made my camp a mile in on the Upper Dungeness...
I hiked both of these trails on July 24th. I made my camp a mile in on the Upper Dungeness Trail as I camped there last year and there are some nice campsites in the area. I started my hike at 12:30pm and made it to Boulder Shelter around 3:00pm. They have rebuilt the bridge over the Dungeness River although it hasn't been updated on the Olympic National Forest Website. There were alot of flies around on different sections of the Upper Dungeness trail but I only noticed them when I stoppped for my breaks.

I had some trouble finding the Charlia Lakes Trail from Boulder Shelter as there is a sign that says Home Lake. Take that trail and not too far up you'll see a trail that goes to the left, which is the Charlia Lakes Trail. Eventually, you'll come to a small pond on your left where there is a campsite available. The trail continues to the end of a huge rock tower. You'll have to go down the slope a few feet to see a couple of the lakes.

Both trails were in good condition. I made it back to my campsite around 7:30pm.
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Buckhorn Lake, Dungeness River, Tubal Cain, Buckhorn Pass — Jul 03, 2009 — JanineG
Multi-night backpack
Features: Wildflowers blooming
Issues: Bridge out
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We hiked up to Buckhorn Pass on the Tubal Cain trail. We camped at the pass, then went through Marmot...
We hiked up to Buckhorn Pass on the Tubal Cain trail. We camped at the pass, then went through Marmot Pass down to Boulder Shelter Camp and out on the Upper Dungeness River trailhead. A nice loop hike that makes a good 3 day backpack using 2 cars for a short car shuttle. The Tubal Cain trail has lovely foliage and the rhododendrons were just nearing the end of their bloom. The wildflowers at Buckhorn and Marmot Pass areas are so diverse with amazing color. On the Tubal Cain trail the views start early and the trail has a nice gentle incline. It starts to get quite steep near the trail junction to Buckhorn Lake. We camped at the top of Buckhorn Pass with sweeping 360 views of mountains. There are still a few patches of snow up there for boiling for drinking water, but I imagine they will soon be gone. We day hiked up to Buckhorn Mt. on the middle day and the views from up there are amazing! We could see Seattle with ferries and cruise ships in the Puget Sound. Also seen from the top are Mt. Rainier, Mt. St. Helens, Glacier Peak, and Mt. Baker. The hike out through Marmot Pass down to Boulder Shelter Camp is steep downhill, but once you get to Boulder Shelter Camp the going is easier. The bridge is out 2.5 miles from the Upper Dungeness trailhead. You have the choice of wading through at the spot in fast running fairly high water or going down 100 yards to cross on a log. We waded through and I was glad we had the dogs on leash as their paddling legs were not strong enough for the current. The Dungeness River's deep blue and soothing sound were a peaceful conclusion to a lovely hike.
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Dungeness River — Jun 14, 2009 — AndyBWalters
Day hike
Features: Wildflowers blooming
Issues: Bridge out
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Started this about 12:00 Sunday. It was not too crowded and the weather was great. We did hear some thunder...
Started this about 12:00 Sunday. It was not too crowded and the weather was great. We did hear some thunder later in the afternoon but never got rained on. The trail was clean and dry with only very few wet spots that were no problem. Only issue was the bridge that is still out at about 2.5 miles. Looks like you can ford the river there with the help of a cable someone has placed but the river was still a little high and fast so thats where we turned aound. Rodies are also blooming now so its a good time to see em out there. All in all a good hike very easy and could be very quick.
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Dungeness River — Feb 13, 2009 — Bob and Barb
Day hike
Issues: Snow on trail
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There was very little snow on the road to the TH except for areas which receive little or no sun...
There was very little snow on the road to the TH except for areas which receive little or no sun and these are probably doable by any car with good tires although we did have our truck in 4WD. There is very little snow on the trail. We hiked a mile to the Royal Basin Trail and walked about 1/4 mile on it. The River and Royal Creek were beautiful with several beautiful ice formations. If time had allowed, we would have gone farther on the Royal Basin Trail which also had very little snow.






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Location
Dungeness River (#833.2)
Olympics -- East
Olympic National Forest, Hood Canal Ranger District
4.25 out of 5
Based on 4 votes
Featured In...

Day Hiking: Olympic Peninsula
by Craig Romano

To buy the full book, including maps, elevation profiles, photos, and more, visit:

A portion of all book sales from the links above benefits WTA and helps protect and maintain our trails.

Information about this hike provided in partnership with Mountaineers Books. Copyright © Craig Romano/The Mountaineers Books

Roundtrip 6.8 miles
Elevation Gain 600 ft
Highest Point 3100 ft
Features
Rivers
Old growth
Established campsites
Guidebooks & Maps
Day Hiking: Olympic Peninsula (Romano - Mountaineers Books)
Green Trails Tyler Peak No. 136

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Driving Directions
(47.8779, -123.1369) Open in new window
Red Marker Upper Dungeness River
47.8779333333 -123.13695

From the west end of the Hood Canal Bridge, drive State Route 104 to its end and veer north onto US 101. Proceed 16 miles and turn left onto Louella Road (just before reaching the Sequim Bay State Park entrance). In 1 mile turn left on Palo Alto Road, continuing for 6 miles. Bear right at a junction onto Forest Road 2880. The road descends and crosses the Dungeness River, coming to another junction in 1.7 miles, where you turn left on FR 2870. In 2.6 miles bear right at a junction to continue on FR 2870 (formerly called FR 2860). Continue 6.5 miles to the large parking area just past the Dungeness River Bridge. Privy available.

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