DAY 1, 8/1/03 (Trailhead to Upper Snow Lake, 7m., 4,100’ elevation gain) After a burger at Gustav’s and a hotel in Leavenworth the sound of a 5:00am alarm buzzed through our heads. Rachel and I knew the beginning of our five day trip in the Enchantments had arrived. After two quick showers, pound cake, bananas, and a smoothy we left the hotel and drove to the Snow Lake trailhead. After we found a spot to park we stretched a bit, then loaded the enormously heavy packs onto our backs. Starting at 6:45am kept us out of the sun most of the way. The trail wastes no time with kicking butt as it switchbacks through a burn out from 1994. After the initial large climb the trail levels slightly with a gentle switchback here and there. Although that doesn’t last long, soon enough another steep climb greeted us. Up and up we went, through the rocks and the trees. We took many breaks so we could sustain our energy for the entire five days. Eventually we came to the outlet of Nada Lake and then finally saw the crystal blue water of the lake itself. We took a break on some rocks near the lake. Within minutes a mountain goat was wandering around us, probably looking for a hand out, looked like an older male, he didn’t hesitate to come right up to us, at one point I had to “shooo” him away. Nada Lake is a beautiful spot with cliffs and rock slides surrounding the area. This would be a nice spot to camp and break up the trip a bit, although our goal was to push on to Upper Snow Lake. The trail continues to follow Nada Lake, then climbs once again up a rock slide. Here you are not far from the man made water spout coming from Lower Snow Lake, it’s quite a sight. This was the first time we felt the sun on us. Our bodies were tired and the sun wasn’t helping. We climbed and climbed until finally reaching the cross over of Lower and Upper Snow Lake. It was 2:45pm at this point, it turned out to be a long day of hiking with all the breaks we took. But we were finally here. Our first day of travel was complete. We found a nice sight toward the back end of Upper Snow Lake. Seven miles and a 4,100’ climb took its toll on us. We set up camp, snacked a bit, and felt good about our accomplishment. During dinner four Osprey circled around the lake calling out to each other. It was a wonderful way to end the day. The bugs were out, but not too bad and it ended up being a very calm night.

DAY 2, 8/2/03 (Upper Snow Lake to Leprechaun Lake, 2m., 1,500’ elevation gain) (Leprechaun Lake to Prusik Pass, 1.7m., 500’ elevation gain) Today we woke up at 6:30am to get an early start up to the Enchantments. It was partly cloudy today, and the mosquitoes were buzzing around our heads as we fixed oatmeal, pop tarts, and coffee. After packing up camp we finally got a move on at around 8:45am. The trail rounds the final part of Upper Snow Lake, crosses the inlet, and slowly starts to climb. From here the terrain gets quite steep. There are sections of trail that are large pieces of granite which made us use our hands and feet at times. It was a workout, especially with packs on. As we neared the basin the trail became mostly rock. When we were just about ready to lay down and take a nap we came upon beautiful Lake Viviane, the first lake and our doorway into a world of the Enchantment Lakes. The lake is crystal blue and surrounded by cliffs, including Prusik Peak towering above. There are a few nice sites around the lake, but we wanted to continue further. We proceeded left across the log jam over the lake outlet and eventually started climbing even more. There are a few more sketchy sections over some granite. We stayed focused and kept our balance. Eventually we came upon Leprechaun Lake as the sun broke out of the clouds. We decided we wanted to camp here. We found a great site next to the lake, hidden behind some large rocks. We were tired at this point, it was 12:15pm and we were hungry. We sat on one of the huge rocks in our camp and ate some tuna sandwiches. We packed a couple rolls and the foil packaged tuna that we brought lasts a long time and tastes great for lunch. After relaxing for a while and setting up camp we decided to climb Prusik Pass. It was nice to hike around with a very light pack at this point. We rounded Sprite Lake and Perfection Lake, then took the signed fork to Prusik Pass. The trail travels through wonderful meadows surrounded by giant cliffs, then makes its way up 300’ to Prusik Pass at 7,400’. From here we could see Shield and Earle Lake. Also saw climbers challenging the hulk of Prusik Peak, it was a great sight to witness. We also looked back and gazed at Little Annapurna, a possible climb for tomorrow. Eventually we descended down the pass and headed back to camp. At this point we knew we were in a special place. The scenery was amazing! After dinner and camp chores we sat in awe and watched the sun illuminate the cliffs and snowfields that surrounded our camp. We had another calm night with no winds and very little bugs.

DAY 3, 8/3/03 (Leprechaun Lake to Little Annapurna summit, 2.5m., 1,500’ elevation gain) Woke to a slightly overcast day around 7:30am. We were happy to see the sun tucked under the clouds since we had plans to climb Little Annapurna and explore the Upper Enchantments basin. Ate our usual oatmeal, pop tarts, and coffee, then headed toward the upper basin around 9:00am. We walked back up to Sprite Lake, around Perfection Lake, and past Inspiration Lake. At this point the trail climbs an avalanche shoot then crosses over a small snow slope, we just followed the cairns and had no problem staying on track. Soon enough we realized we were in the upper basin of the fabulous Enchantment Lakes. The larch trees seemed to disappear and all that was there were large boulders and lakes. It didn’t seem like it was very long ago that this area was covered with glaciers. It was like stepping into a different world where rock, snow, and ice dominated the landscape. Just before the trail crosses a snow field and creek we detoured left toward Little Annapurna. We scrambled up the boulders and granite slabs that made up the north face of the mountain. We found a couple cairns, although we were pretty much on our own, we just chose the safest route possible. As we climbed the views expanded with every step. Soon Crystal Lake appeared, also visible was Inspiration and Perfection Lake. We could even see Snow Lake down the valley which made us realize how far we came. Finally after a few small snow crossings we found our way on top of Little Annapurna. We could peer down about 2500’ to Crystal Creek and look down on the surrounding peaks. If you don’t like heights stay away from the edge. Looking northeast we could see the upper and lower basin, along with Prusik Peak and its companions. Looking west we gazed at Dragontail Peak and toward Aasgard Pass with Glacier Peak in the distance. We also noticed a wonderful meadow which sits at the top of Little Annapurna. Stay on the footpath through this very fragile meadow, it leads to lichen covered rocks of Little Annapurna’s true summit at 8,400’. From here we saw Mt. Rainier looming in the distance. Seeing Rainier and Glacier Peak reminded us that we truly were in the state of Washington rather than on some far off planet. What a magical place it was. During our descent of Little Annapurna we stayed to the side with Crystal Lake in view. This seemed to be the best route, although we didn’t go up this way. Eventually we traversed west a bit and slid down some of the snow fields for a quicker descent. Finally back down to the upper basin we found a huge boulder to relax on. We stared up at Little Annapurna and were proud of our accomplishment. It was relaxing to sit and absorb the scenery. It’s hard to have a lot of down time when there is so much to explore. Our slow hike back to camp was wonderful. We saw two marmots wrestling, it was an amazing event to witness. Little Annapurna kept popping up in the distance and all we could do was smile, knowing we stood at the top. We returned to camp, ate some Mountain House meals and a freeze dried ice cream sandwich, boy did that taste good! Another adventure filled day and a beautiful evening. The moon rose above the cliffs and the sky turned pink as the sun dipped below the peaks. We fell asleep with visions of the upper basin and Little Annapurna dancing in our heads. Another calm night, no bugs

DAY 4, 8/4/03 (Leprechaun Lake to Nada Lake, 3.5m.) This morning we crawled out of the tent to find a mountain goat in our camp. Eventually about six more goats came into camp including a baby goat. At one point the baby showed off for us and climbed up a five foot piece of granite that was almost vertical. It was a great example of the agility of these animals, even at such a young age. Eventually we packed up and started down the steep climb to Nada Lake. Climbing back down the granite slabs wasn’t as tricky as we thought it would be. It was sad to leave the Enchantments, but we had an amazing time. We even got one last look at Little Annapurna from Lake Viviane, a great image to conclude our Enchantments adventure. When we arrived at Nada Lake our shoulders were very sore and we were glad that we planned to break up the trip back to the car. We found a secluded campsite in the woods near a rockslide. It was nice to be back in the forest with the trees surrounding us. We took a dip in the lake and quickly jumped out since it was ice cold, although it felt refreshing. After dinner we climbed to the rockslide behind our tent to get a closer look. Some of these rocks were the size of houses, HUGE. With one more day ahead of us we crawled into the tent and gave our bodies a good rest.

DAY 5, 8/5/03 (Nada Lake to trailhead, 6m.) It was a buggy morning. Even went for the bug nets over our faces to stop the mosquitoes from flying into our mouths. Decided not to have a hot breakfast since we were just focused on hiking out. Downed a pop tart and some gatorade in the tent, then headed down around 7:15am. Took a few breaks on our way to snack on some cliff bars and turkey jerky. Talked a lot about the trip and how wonderful it was to have the opportunity to spend five days in such a fantastic place. We also talked about all the restaurants we wanted to eat at when we were back in town. It was great to get back to the car all in one piece. A fresh pair of clothes awaited us both. With the air conditioner rolling and the tunes playing we made our way to the closest fast food restaurant in Leavenworth.

FINAL THOUGHT, 8/6/03 This was definitely one of the best experiences of our lives. All the hard work, permit application, and planning paid off. Looking back on the trip seems like a dream. A place like the Enchantment Lakes can be so treacherous and beautiful at the same time. Our minds will always wander there throughout the coming weeks, months, and years. We are happy to know that the Enchantment Lakes have a piece of our hearts. Our sweat and our aching muscles may fade, but the memories of such a special place will be with us forever.

TRIP TOTALS mileage: 27 elevation gain: 7,600’

Happy travels, Josh & Rachel

I took a day of vacation so Syuper K and I could spend a couple of days in this enchanting area....our third visit in three years.

Our trip began early....leaving Kirkland at 7:00 am and arriving at the ranger station in Leavenworth at 9:10 to pick up the permits. Then on to the trail head. The road up icicle creek is in good shape with some washboards that will slow you down.

By the time we reached the trailhead and had a snack, it was already getting hot. The trail to Colchuck Lake is in good shape. We stopped at the Lake for a brief rest, some food & water before continuing on around the lake to the boulder field where the real work begins to climb/scramble up Aasgard Pass. It is a steep, exhausting ascent with poor footing in some areas, gaining 2,200 feet from Colchuck Lake to the top of Aasgard in less than 3/4 mile. But it is doable, just stay to the left of the boulders and follow the cairns. The rewards upon cresting tyhe pass are worth the effort....it is like stepping onto another planet. There is still a lot of snow. The upper lakes are just begining to melt out, revealing their astonishing light turquois blue color in a setting of glistening snow and polished granite.

Our camp was located perfecly at the base of Little Annapurna on the only clear graveled area, next to the stream connecting the two tairns. The scenery is all around us. Other camp sites are open and availabe on the level above us and at the basin below us.

On Sturday we hiked to the lower Enchantment Lakes with the goal of finding and photographing Nome Tairn at the base of Prusick Peak. The snow field between the upper and lower lakes is passable. We chose to use our crampons to add to the safety. The trail going up to Prusick Pass has several large snow patches on it so the trail isn't always obvious. After attaining Prusick Pass we traversed around the shoulder of Prusick until we came upon some magnificent granite slabs...eventually we did stumble upon Nome Tairn for the photos. Then back to camp for lunch and a nap. We still had plans to hike to the top of Little Annapurna. Later in the afternoon we took our crampons in hand and hiked up the granite ridge toward the snow field on flank of Little Annpurna. With the crampons strapped on the boots, it was an easy hike up the snow field. Near the summit, the snow gives way to an easy hike through patches of grass, some small but brilliantly colored wild flowers and of course the boulders. This is an amazing place with views to Glacier Peak to the north. To the east there are some amazing rock spires and 360 degrees of views! By this time the snow was getting quite soft so we decided against glisading back down and instead, plunge stepped back down the slope to camp. It was a full and rewarding day.

Sunday did not have the great weather we had on the previous days. We had a windy night, the temperatures dropped significantly and it got cold. The morning was clouded over and the coulds were ominous. But it was time for us to pack up and retreat from this magnificent place. Ging back down Aasgard Pass is a challenge. We had to be cautious of the loose gravel and rolling rocks.

It was a great weekend in the Enchanments.....the bugs were few....the weather great (except for Sunday)....and we got some great photos!

This was the last weekend to access the Enchantments without a permit and it was great weekend to do it. Hiked the 2 miles to the base of Snow Creek Wall Friday after work. This first section is in the old '94 burn so there's no shade. I was happy to have the evening start. Saturday's climb to Snow Lakes was a dream. No problems on the trail other than 2 downed trees near Nada Lake which trail maintenence was cleaning up on Sunday. There's plenty of water coming over the spillway between the Snow Lakes making for a refreshing crossing. Patchy snow starts on the far side of Snow Lake and continues sporadically up to the Enchantments. The trail to L. Viviane is as good as it gets. The last 200 ft require crossing a snowfield which was soft Saturday afternoon but frozen hard Sunday morning for the descent. I found a bit of dry ground on the shore of Lake Viviane for camp Saturday night, but snow in the Enchantments is still the rule. Most of the lakes are starting to thaw and I could hear people climbing Prussik. There's a good boot track in the snow at least to Perfection Lake where I turned around. Daytrippers from Snow Lake reported people coming up over Asgard Pass which has to be steep and slippery. The descent on Sunday was fine other than ice on the logjam crossing of L. Viviane outlet and the first snowpatch. Friday 1500' 2 miles to Snow Creek Wall 1hr Saturday 4000' 8 miles to L. Viviane 6 hrs Sunday out 6 hours No need for snow shoes or ice axe at least to Perfection Lake. I didn't go any further happy hiking

I decided to go on an overnight trio to the Snow Lakes and the make a day trip to Lake Vivian the following day. The trail is snow free, with the exception of small patches all the way to Snow Lake. The Falls at Nada Lake were roaring and beautiful. Flowers are blooming from the trail head all the way to Snow lake but not much afterwards. A few biting bugs were around but not too many.

Water was flowing over the dam between the two snow lakes, about three inches deep. It is cold but easily crossed. Snow starts in earnest on the shady SE shore of the lake but clears up a bit around the inlet. Pachy snow exist on the way up to Lake Vivian, a fair amount in the trees but almost none in the open areas. The trail is difficult to find for the last 500 vertical feet or so to the lake but once you crest the ridge the vieews are well well worth the postholes.