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North Fork Skokomish River and Flapjack Lakes

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An easy all-day hike along a roaring wild waterway embraced by coniferous giants, or a very long all-day hike to a pair of subalpine lakes in the shadows of the jagged Sawtooth Range. Neither hike is particularly difficult; they just require endurance and some good aerobic conditioning because of their lengths. No matter your destination, though, you'll have plenty of company. The North Fork Skokomish River valley has been attracting legions of hikers ever since Lieutenant O'Neil and his boys passed this way shortly after Washington became a state.

The North Fork Skokomish Trail will satisfy your hiking desires whether you amble up it for 1 mile or 10. The first 3.5 miles were once a road. Decommissioned in the early 1970s, it now makes for a wide and well-graded path. The trail follows part of the O'Neil Party's 1890 exploratory route. Several months after the famous Press Expedition, which traversed the Olympic interior from north to south, Lieutenant O'Neil led a group of scientists and soldiers across the Olympics from east to west.

Immediately start with a view up the wild valley. At 0.5 mile cross Slate Creek, fed by a little lake high on Mount Lincoln. Cross a luxuriant bottomland of massive cedars and firs-a few big big-leaf maples too! Cross a small creek and large outwash area, and at 1 mile come to the Staircase Rapids Trail. The bridge has been out for years. If it ever gets replaced, this trail makes a nice loop for children and those short on time.

The main trail continues right, coming within earshot and eyesight of the tumbling North Fork. A few nice riverbank flats can be accessed along the way. At 1.25 miles pass the Slide Camp access, leading to good camp and picnic sites on the river. Proceed past remnants of a 1986 slide and emerge at the edge of a 1985 burn. Thanks to a careless camper, 1400 acres of our old-growth heritage went up in flames. Thankfully, nature forgives, and the area has been nicely recovering.

At 2 miles emerge on a small rise in the burnt-over area, which offers good views of the bowing river. Now climbing gradually, move away from the waterway through a forest of new greenery and resilient giants sporting blackened trunks. At 3.4 miles reach the junction to Flapjack Lakes at Spike Camp (elev. 1450 ft).

Big Log Camp: For Big Log Camp, head straight, soon returning to the riverbank and more impressive old growth. At 5.5 miles arrive at a junction. Big Log Camp is to your left, a great place to while away the afternoon by the river.

Flapjack Lakes: For Flapjack Lakes, head right, climbing out of the valley. After a few switchbacks, the trail turns north, skirting a slope and gradually gaining elevation. At 5.5 miles, cross Madeline Creek. Skirt another hillside and then work your way up the Donahue Creek ravine. The way, now considerably steeper, parallels the cascading creek. At 7 miles the climb eases and you reach a junction with the trail that heads to Black and White Lakes and Smith Lake.

Continue right and after 0.5 mile reach the two Flapjack Lakes (elev. 3900 ft). Ringed by subalpine forest and framed by the rugged spires of the Sawtooth Range, the lakes serve up a hearty helping of views. In this popular place, please help mitigate environmental degradation by practicing Leave No Trace principles.
Driving Directions:

From Shelton travel north on US 101 for 15 miles to Hoodsport. Turn left (west) onto State Route 119, proceeding 9.3 miles to a T intersection with Forest Road 24. Make a sharp left. In 1.7 miles the pavement ends. Continue on a good gravel road (FR 24) and in 3.7 miles come to a junction. Turn right and drive 1.2 miles to the Staircase Ranger Station. Trailhead parking is on your right, across from the campground. Water and privies available.

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Recent Trip Reports

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There are 53 trip reports for this hike. See all trip reports for this hike.
North Fork Skokomish River and Flapjack Lakes, Black and White Lakes Primitive — Aug 19, 2011 — 2millcreekhikers
Multi-night backpack
Features: Wildflowers blooming
Issues: Snow on trail | Bugs
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We finally made it into the alpine this year during this trip. Along with a lot of other hikers stuc...
We finally made it into the alpine this year during this trip. Along with a lot of other hikers stuck in the lower elevations due to the year's incredible late snow pack, we had to wait unti mid-August to do this one. We did order some microspikes for our boots to deal with the high alpine scramble up Gladys Divide but they didn't arrive in the mail on their scheduled date prior to us leaving for this trip. Anyhow, we hit the trail around 9:45 Friday morning. The 4.0 mile trail along the Skokomish was in flawless condition, as it usually is, and we turned right onto the Flapjack Lakes trail at 11:20. The Flapjack Lakes trail was also in perfect condition and included the brand spanking new Madeline Creek Bridge. There are some great spots to take a break and cool off when you get within about a half mile of the Black & White Lakes / Flapjack Lakes trail junction. They are some nice waterfalls there that keep the air misty and cool plus they're well shaded. After about ten minutes and a few nice pictures there, we shoved off. We decided we were finally going to hit Black & White Lakes this time so we turned left at the trail sign / junction. You're pretty much made aware immediately the difference between the more well traveled Flapjack Lakes trail and the 'primitive trail' up to Black & White Lakes. It's pretty steep, relentless, and in parts is definitely primitive. The TOPO map indicates the lakes are .8 miles from the trails junction but we were both scratching our heads - it seemed like a LONG .8 miles!! And no one ever mentioned some of the traverses that can definitely grab your attention. The trail is a little sloped downhill as you cross them, is pretty narrow (about 6" wide), and there'd be hell to pay if you went over the edge at any of 7 or 8 there. After crossing those, the trail swings around and continues to climb up a ridge. You'll know you're getting close to the lakes when you see the trail sign indicating the primitive way-trail heading left back down 3500' to the Skokomish River trail and straight to Black & White Lakes. The sun was pounding down on us pretty much in earnest at that point so we were still trying to maintain a solid pace. You'll climb one more solid ridge after the sign then earn the shore of the first and bigger lake. There are no signs indicating designated campsites or privies or bear wires. We only found one site that appeared to be an actual spot and there are no bear wires or privy. We brought out bear canister. Some idiots that must have left right before us scarred the campsite with a fire (none allowed over 3500' and the site is over 5000' elevation) and they left a sorry excuse for a cat hole with a bunch of used toilet paper on the ridge right across from the spot. We scrambled around the lake looking for a site that might have some shade (none available at the site) but found nothing. So we set up camp there. We both agreed the views there were by far superior to those at Flapjack Lakes. It's more open and is more of an alpine setting as opposed to a forested setting at Flapjacks. We took off in the morning pretty early towards the next camp spot at Flapjack Lakes. The hike to the next lakes was actually not bad at all and took us about 1.5 hours. We set up at Flapjacks, relaxed, went fishing for awhile (caught a pretty big Eastern Brook Trout) then filled up the daypack with water / snacks and headed up towards Gladys Divide. The trail gave way to snow about a quarter mile before the pass. But the sun was out, it was well into the afternoon and the snow was really soft so traction with just the boots and trekking poles presented no challenges at all. The views up on the Divide were absolutely incredible and well worth the pleasant walk up there. We took off the next day at 9AM for the trailhead and made it by 12:30. It was a perfect trip. Black flies and mosquitoes made their presence known but really were never that bad.
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North Fork Skokomish River and Flapjack Lakes — Aug 17, 2011 — ehulet
Day hike
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The road-width trail slid away about 5 minutes into the hike. A detour has been constructed. Only ...
The road-width trail slid away about 5 minutes into the hike. A detour has been constructed. Only 2 streams between the trailhead and the Flapjacks intersection have water. Everything else is dry. A few bugs. Trail is really rocky.
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North Fork Skokomish River and Flapjack Lakes, Gladys Divide Primitive — Jul 29, 2011 — JanetO
Overnight
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Went in to the lakes for an overnight trip. Most of the campsites are melted out. Still snow aroun...
Went in to the lakes for an overnight trip. Most of the campsites are melted out. Still snow around the lake. The weather was cool enough that bugs were not an issue. Trail to Gladys divide had hard packed snow on trail in the woods. Trail was difficult to follow and crossing snow patches needed to be done with care. The meadow and the route to the divide was under deep snow. Morning coolness resulted in hard sun cupped snow fields. As soon as the sun hit the slopes, plunge stepping down was easy.
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North Fork Skokomish River and Flapjack Lakes — Jul 23, 2011 — Jeremy S.
Day hike
Issues: Snow on trail
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We started at the trailhead at approximately 9:30 am. I was carrying a 35 lbs pack. I generally hi...
We started at the trailhead at approximately 9:30 am. I was carrying a 35 lbs pack. I generally hike about 2 to 2.5 m.p.h. with breaks included. We hiked up to the junction to the Flapjack Lakes in about an hour and ten minutes. After a short break, we took off for the lake at 10:50. From there, it took another hour plus to get to the trail junction with Black and White Lakes and Flapjack Lakes. The last half mile took us about thirty minutes, and it was the only time there was any snow. Many people have traveled to the lake, and the path is easy to follow.i
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Black & White Lakes, Black & White Way, North Fork Skokomish River, North Fork Skokomish River and Flapjack Lakes — Jul 03, 2011 — JCTomlin
Day hike
Issues: Blowdowns | Snow on trail
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We left the trailhead at Staircase at 7:30 a.m. and headed up North Fork Skokomish River Trail to B...
We left the trailhead at Staircase at 7:30 a.m. and headed up North Fork Skokomish River Trail to Big Log Camp and then turned onto the Black&White Lakes Way Trail for the torturous 2.3 mile, 3000ft' climb to the lakes. We saw bear sign and bear tracks along the way, but no bear!

We encountered the first heavy snow cover while still in the trees as we approached the top of the ridge. The snow continued the rest of the way up to the lakes and, in places on the open slopes near the lakes, was 5 or 6 feet deep. Needless to say, the lakes were still snow covered and just beginning to thaw.

We took advantage of the perfect weather and enjoyed an hour long lunch break on the ridge just above the lakes before heading down. Aided by a few short glissades, we descended quickly towards the Black and White Lakes Trail (#115). After a short search through the snow, we found the trail and headed down to the Flapjack Lakes Trail, encountering only minor blowdowns and a tricky stream crossing.

It's important to note that route-finding skills are necessary under these conditions, especially if you have not hiked the route before!

We reached the Flapjack Lakes Trail and started back down towards the North Fork Skokomish River Trail. The first 1/8 mile or so was snow covered, but the remainder of the trip back was easy going, thanks in part to the beautiful new bridge at Madeline Creek.

We arrived back at the trailhead at 5:30 pm: 16 miles in 10 hrs.

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flapjack lakes - mossy mom.JPG
Flapjack Lakes. Photo by Mossy Mom.
Location
Flapjack Lakes (#114)
Olympics -- East
Statistics
Roundtrip 15.0 miles
Elevation Gain 3200 ft
Highest Point 3900 ft
Guidebooks & Maps
Day Hiking: Olympic Peninsula (Romano - Mountaineers Books)
Green Trails Mt Steel No. 167
Custom Correct Mount Skokomish-Lake Cushman; Contact: Olympic National Park
Wilderness Information Center
(360) 565-3100
www
.nps.gov/olym; Notes: Dogs prohibited. National park entry fee. FR 24 sustained serious storm damage in December of 2007 forcing closure at Big Creek; consult ranger for current road status;

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Note: the description and driving directions for this Mountaineers Books entry are copyrighted and can't be changed.

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