While painting my house Wednesday, a Jehovah’s Witness dropped by peddling religion. She said I was going to heaven. Despite my blasphemous views on bible-based religions, I had to agree, but only because I knew I had planned a trip into the Cascades on Saturday.

I’ve had this trip on my list for a few years now. The USGS quad revealed what the Greentrails map only hinted at: dramatic scenery, no trails, and enough space between the contour lines to both allow for safe passage and offer a place to rest weary bones. A couple of trail reports (b&b, Stickwalker) confirmed my hunch of a shorter route that avoids the unnecessary mileage and elevation gain of exploring via Spectacle Lake. Originally, my plan was to stay at Chikamin, but Glacier’s charms were irresistible.

The much-maligned Mineral Creek trail delivers on its brushy promise. I can see how, in wet weather it would be miserable. But I found it to be pleasant enough, especially this time of year when the vine maple flames with autumn color. Look for turn-of-the-century (one before last) mining artifacts about a mile from the trailhead.

What a sight to behold, that “stone kingdom” referred to in the report by “b&b”. From the shoulder above Park lakes one views Chikamin, Lemah, Overcoat, Summit Chief, and Bear’s Breast, all in one forbidding, stony wall. And as a balm, one looks down to a patchwork of cozy meadows and quiet tarns on the plateau just above blue-green Glacier Lake. Home! (for a couple of nights).

During our stay, the hound and I enjoyed gardens of heather, flat grass, tiny tarns, and glacier-smoothed rock. The parallel grooves were so fresh I would have thought the glacier had retreated last week. While I contemplated the force of ice sheets 10,000 years ago, Ceili grazed on plentiful blueberries. A family of four mountain goats was a part of the scenery as well. Another selling point for destinations at this time of year was the 9 hours of sunshine we enjoyed, with an emphasis on crucial thawing in the morning. I saw two people during the three days; only one stayed overnight. I pleasured in sleeping out under the cosmos with a late rising moon, while Mars soared overhead.

Explorations included the ridge that extends high over Spectacle Lake and the tarn in the cirque above Glacier. All of it was riddled with picturesque tarns, pillows of rounded rock, and grassy meadows. Passage through the great sharded talus field above Glacier was challenging. Attempts to find an easier route on the ridge above were bedeviled by cliffs and pesky elevation gain. After the day’s exertions the dog and I took a much needed “swim” in frosty Glacier Lake. This trail has a bad reputation as being rough and brushy. I regard it as a wonderful trail, if only for getting to an exceptional place, heaven.

How did I miss this trail for so long? A beautiful forest walk with incredible photo ops, especially if you like creating those bridal veil stream shots. Trail is an easy grade first half but steepens going up to Surprise Lk. Another half hour gets you to identical Glacier Lake; both lakes are beautiful and tranquil but Glacier has few people and thus, easier no-tan-lines activities (thankfully no pics attached). Bugs are nearly gone, water at both lakes is swimmable. On a busy day just park out by the RR tracks, it's not worth the hassle trying to wedge in the car farther in. Checked out Hungry Hiker recommendation Ixtapa in Sultan - excellent Mexican food. Zeke's in Goldbar was packed so it must be good too. I'm amused at the people in Monroe-Sultan-Startup-Goldbar who hate the traffic clusters on Sunday afternoons. Should we build a 4 lane bypass and put all of them out of business? This is probably the wrong group to ask that question. Enjoy!

The weather looked like it was much better than they thought it would be on Thursday. Unfortunately, an appointment took up my whole morning, but I decided I would still get out and do a Route 2 hike since I haven't been out there yet this year.

Then, because of that deplorable public menace (for private gain) known as Seafair -- I mean, why do Seattlites just take it for granted that a private, for-profit enterprise can hire jetplanes EVERY YEAR and have MAJOR ARTERIES closed for SEVERAL HOURS on SEVERAL CONSECUTIVE DAYS, just so like 5 people can actually have a good view of the pilots' tricks, while the noise nearly shakes my house to its foundation??!! -- it took me 2.5 hours to get to the trailhead from Seattle. There is also some roadwork and a detour around Skykomish along Route 2, so that also contributed to the lengthy drive. I hit the trailhead a few minutes after 4pm.

Because of the late start, I just went to Surprise and Glacier Lakes then turned around, making it back to my car a little after 8:30. The trail is great, a nice, consistent, moderate grade. The valley is very wet and lively -- streams splashing everywhere, with Surprise Creek cascading over mossy boulders. Surprise Lake is your typical, pretty, Cascade mountain lake (unsurprisingly beautiful?). Glacier Lake is maybe a tad more dramatic. If I had more time, and if it were less cloudy, I would have gone up to Surprise Gap and Surprise Mountain but -- surprise! -- I didn't and it wasn't. It actually started clearing up a bit I was leaving the lakes, and by the time I got back to my car, there were only a few small clouds in the sky. It's a conspiracy, I tell ya... I blame Seafair.

From Seattle on US 2, go approximately 10 miles past Skykomish. There is a dirt road to the right (if you go over the bridge over RR tracks, you've gone too far). Follow the road left over the railroad tracks then bear right to a short road that widens in a parking area. The road continues up hill for a short distance to the trailhead. We left the parking area at about 8:45. This is a great trail that has had a lot of obvious trail maintenance. There are stairs and turnpikes over what would be muddy places. Although there is a 2300 foot elevation gain to Surprise lake, it is spread out over the entire 4 mile distance, so there aren't any really steep spots. Surprise lake is a great destination, but we decided to move on to Glacier lake for lunch. Keep your eyes open for a side trail on the left that leads down to the lake. There is a neat flat rock at the edge of the lake that makes for a great lunch spot. Quincy the wonder dog, nice and cool in the crisp fall weather, decided that a dip would not be in order today. Since it was still fairly early, we decided to check out the old Cascade Crest trail to Surprise gap. I'm not sure why this section is abandoned, but it was quite decent and left a short 1/2 mile jog up to Surprise Mountain from the gap. The PCT Route takes you up a shoulder of the mountain and around the other side, greatly extending the trip. If anybody knows the reason the old trail was closed, I'd appreciate it if you dropped me a line (bnassal@hotmail.com, since trail talk is no more). The views from the top of Surprise are astounding! Back north to Glacier and Surprise lakes, South to Mounts Hinman and Daniel. Even on a partly cloudy day, this was worth the trip! We hustled down on tired, sore feet, and made the cars just as deep evening enveloped us. Even Quincy is a bit tired today, but we all agreed this was a great hike!

My wife and I were looking for a final conditioning-backpacking trip before our slim to none chance of a scheduled trip to the Enchantments. We received our expected phone message from the Leavenworth Ranger Station on 8/19/01, canceling our six-day permit set to start on 8/27/01.

We last visited Surprise Lake on 5/26/01, when the lake was frozen and the basin covered in snow. The outstanding trail work I saw in May has continued to just below the lake and made for substantially reduced travel times over prior visits.

We planned on pitching our new Stephensons Warmlite Tent at Glacier Lake, but all the sites were taken. Tired and hungry, we took a short break and hiked back to Surprise Lake where we found a site on the SE side of the lake. Cloudy and cool Saturday gave way to a beautiful Sunday. As much as we enjoyed the nice weather, we would have rather had it rain to help suppress all the forest fires in our state.

Campsites at Surprise Lake appear to be in better shape and larger than those at Glacier Lake. Picas abound and marmots were heard.