Went in to the lakes for an overnight trip. Most of the campsites are melted out. Still snow around the lake. The weather was cool enough that bugs were not an issue. Trail to Gladys divide had hard packed snow on trail in the woods. Trail was difficult to follow and crossing snow patches needed to be done with care. The meadow and the route to the divide was under deep snow. Morning coolness resulted in hard sun cupped snow fields. As soon as the sun hit the slopes, plunge stepping down was easy.

I took two days off work to do my first overnight backpack of the season at Flapjack Lakes. I had resolved to go to Flapjack Lakes a many months ago, back when it was one of the few backcountry backpacking destinations that had mostly melted out. Finding time to actually go proved troublesome, so it wasn't until now that I actually made it. Of course, now there are many other possibilites open, but I'd already decided on Flapjack, so thence I went.
I left home at around 8:00am, but had to stop at REI to pick out some new boots. I had bought new boots back in January, but after many, many uncomfortable miles in them, I finally gave up on them and exchanged them. Good move, I think. This stop, plus traffic, plus subsequent stops at Costco and Safeway for provisions, plus to drive to Staircase, plus stopping at the ranger station for a permit all added up to me hitting the trail just before 3pm. Speaking of permits, this is one of those heavily-used areas, and camping is limited. 50% of the permits can be reserved ahed of time, 50% are avaiable the day-of. I figured that on a Tuesday I could go the "walk-in" route, and fortunately, I was right.
After obtaining my permit, I parked the car, hoisted pack, and set off on the N. Fork Skokomish River Trail. The trail starts out on an old abandoned road, and the going was easy. There was a huge washout right at the beginning of the trail, but the trail has been rerouted. The downside of the retoure is that you are deprived of a great view up the Skokomish River Valley. The upside, of course, is that you don't fall into the river.
The trail works its way upvalley, gently gaining elevation. Occasional glipses of the river present themselves, but unless you drop down to one of the numberous camps, you never get a full view. The canopy thins considerably when you enter the area hit by the 1985 burn, thus allowing a good bit of sunshine to make its way down to the trail (yes, I was hiking on a sunny day). All in all, it makes for very pleasant, carefree walking.
In rather short order, my time along the Skokomish came to an end and it was time to get to work. Switchbacks begin immediately after the turn onto the Flapjack Lakes trail. The trail levels off in a mile, skirting the hillside to Madeline Creek. The bridge was on the losing side of an arguement with a falling tree, and was closed as a result. There is a detour down to a ford just below the bridge. The ford was running about 24". There was also a log/boulder hop route just below the ford. I went the log route. I made it across without getting a drop of water on my boots, but I have to admit that as I chivvied across the logs, the ford sure looked better.
After Madeleine creek, the trail becomes increasingly sttep and rocky. The last half-mile between the Black and White Lakes junction and the Flapjacks is particularly rough going. That was one of the longest half-miles I've hiked. Going up, I thought it just seemed tough because I was getting tired, but it seemed just as bad on the way down, so I have to conclude that it was in fact a tough bit of trail.
I made it to the lakes just before 6:30. The lakes were sparkling green in the late afternoon sun. I scouted all the campsites before selecting mine. The best spot I found was at the west end of the west lake, but sadly, there was already a tent set up there. I ended up taking a spot on the east lake, with great views of the lake and up to Mt. Cruiser. I set up camp, ate dinner, hung my food, and explored the lakeshore. There were a bunch of moquitoes up there, but there were easily deterred by a bit of DEET. I settled into my tent bag as the sun settled beyod the horizon, the evening still blissfully warm. The view out my tent door of craggy Mt. Cruiser standing high above the lake provided the perfect backdrop for a peaceful night's sleep.
I awoke at around 6:00am the next morning by 7:00 found myself engaged in the ritual camping meal of oatmeal and hot chocolate. While I ate, there seemed to be an endless stream of deer parading about the environs of my campsite. First a does and her two fawns, then another young doe, and later and older doe. One after another after another they just come tromping through, often within feet of me, stopping occasionally to munch on vegetation and whatnot. There's something about the Olympic National Park that causes the aminals inside to be oblivous to human activity.
After breakfast, I re-hung my food and headed up the trail to Gladys Divide. The trail was snow-free 75% of the way to the divide, and routfinding was easy thereafter...just follow the valley up! What an amazing place! The view of Gladys and Cruiser to either side, and the Skokomish Valley and south Olympics behind were breataking. From the divide, the a new world opened up. Here was a place too wild, too beautiful for mortal man. The valley below, the headwaters of the Hamma Hamma, Mt. Skokomish, the resonating crash of waterfalls...Eden itself spread out before my eyes.
I could have spent an entire day exploring the Gladys Divide area. But, as always, time was limted. I made my way back down the the lakes and broke camp. The way down was just as steep and rocky as it had been going up. Again, due to time limitations, I had to skip my hoped-for sidetrip to the Black and White Lakes. I recrossed Madeliene creek (once again over the logjam...had I learnt nothing?) and enjoyed lunch on the other side. Then down and back the the trail head, back to Hoodsport for the requisite stop at the Hoodpost Coffee Company for a scoop of the utterly amazing Olympic Mountain Ice Cream (the world's best, so fresh, so tasty), and then the long drive home.

I took the family camping at Staircase and I went hiking. I did not want to stay at Staircase, but my kiddo wanted to go camping, so for her sake I suffered with the crowds and noise. God, I hate the front country in the summer. I’m not going back to Staircase until AFTER they lock the gate for the winter. Anyway, my kiddo had a good time and she got her first Jr. Ranger Badge.

A ranger suggested that I hike to Wagon Wheel Lake :shakehead: instead of hiking to Gladys Divide. But, I’ve been to Wagon wheel Lake and I know better. I’m even a little bit miffed that the ranger tried so hard to get me to do Wagon Wheel instead of Gladys. But he seemed like a nice guy so I’ll try not to hold it against him. :)

I started my hike at 6:30 AM and finished at 6:30 PM. The hike up to Flapjack lakes was easy for me, but I was getting hot so I jumped in the lake with all my clothes on. When I got out of the lake a swarm of blood sucking bugs tried to eat me. To avoid being eaten I sat in the lake with just my head sticking out of the water. I felt very refreshed after my dunk in that cold lake. When I was done swimming I got away from the area as fast as I could.

I had plenty of energy left to go for the Gladys Divide, 1,100 feet and one mile up the trail. The divide was great! There was just enough of a breeze on the divide to keep all the bugs away. I cooked up a big meaty protein filled lunch while I was soaking up the views.

I always hike alone, but when I was on the divide, I felt a little bit creeped out being all alone and so far from the trail head. The divide is a very surreal area.

Just before the divide I saw two deer and just before the finish of my hike I saw two grouse. Horseflies circled me and started following me several times but I managed to scare them off with my trekking poles.

GPS Totals from campsite to campsite

18.5 Miles RT
4,300 Feet Elevation Gain

More pictures, maps and details on my blog

http://mosswalks.blogspot.com/[…]/gladys-divide-and-flap-jack-lakes.html

Overnight trip to Flapjack Lakes and Gladys Divide and to the top of Gladys mountain. Arrived at trailhead and ranger was posting signs saying Cougar(s) are in the area (they were finding deer kills) and that hiking alone was not recommended? So, I sharpened my walking pole and started my hike – being sure to make lots of noise. About 2 miles up the trail, I found a lone hiking boot in the middle of the trail! I looked around for a body and when I didn’t see any, I continued up the trail at a faster pace and making more noise. First 4 miles are along an old road bed and easy hiking with a few easy stream crossings. At 4 miles you turn off the road and follow the trail to Flapjack lakes. Here the trail begins up in earnest. At one creek crossing, the trail is blocked with a bypass indicated. I looked at the metal bridge and it’s now V-shaped…like a tree fell on it… and it’s definitely not something I want to cross with my pack. The bypass has you go down a steep slope to the creek, cross on some rocks that have about 2” of water running over them (I think it’s called ‘fording’) and then up the steep bank on the other side. Continuing up, the next intersection is with Black and White Lakes and a camping area with my first wildlife encounter…a deer…that was extremely friendly and not afraid of humans. I continued up toward Flapjack Lakes and arrived to the solitude of multiple camping areas, bear wire hangars, and no humans OR animals. I filtered water and began the final UP to Gladys Divide .. my destination for the night. This part of the trail finally breaks out of the woods and was spectacular…with flower fields, tarns, creeks, and the sheer wall of Cruiser Mtn in the background. I arrived at Gladys Divide in about 5 ½ hours and made a camp on some rocks on the other side of the divide, looking down at a large tarn below and the Hamma-Hamma valley, and mountains beyond….beautiful views. Next morning, beautiful sunrise and sunshine on my camp and I began my climb up Mt Gladys. There are some cairns to mark the way, but not enough. There are some small snowfields to cross, but nothing steep. I finally found the top and could see deep into the Olympics with snow/ice covered mountains and trees forever…spectacular spot to be…for about an hour. THEN, back down the 12? Miles and 4000’ ? to the car. At Flapjack lake, I refilled my water and was bothered by another deer staring at me. Further down the trail, a garter snake crossed in front of me, and a little further, I saw a squirrel. That’s it for ‘wildlife’! I didn’t see a human until I hit the old road/trail where a couple were resting for the climb to Flapjack Lakes for the night. Walking back to the car, I passed 3 other small day-hiking groups and then a group of at least 12 kids with a couple of ‘grown ups’. The rest of the trail to the car I picked up orange peels, candy wrappers, and also buried some of their Kleenex. Oh, and I saw the boot had been moved off the trail into the brush. Since the road/trail has had recent horse activity, my guess is that the boot fell off the horse/pack so I left it there…maybe someone will be back for it!
Sorry for the long report, but had a great time and exhausted..my GPS says I went 24 miles and 4700 elevation gain...but it was well worth it.
Sorry,all pics >1M