High Rock
Last modified
Oct 26, 2009 08:40 AM
Contributors:
mhungry, Eleanor Pachaud
Savvy hikers seeking stellar 360-degree views know to look for lookouts. The old fire lookout cabins (sometimes cabins-atop-towers) used by the Forest Service in the pre-satellite radar days were always situated atop high peaks with outstanding views in all directions. The sole purpose of these high lonesome structures was to provide fire lookouts a panoramic view of a broad swath of mountains so they could watch for smoke. As such, the old fire lookout stations are wonderful hiking destinations, and unlike many of the old sites,
High Rock still has its tower (which is still used in season). As great as the views are, though, the mountain itself is even more astounding. High Rock is one of the more impressive stone formations on which you're ever likely to sit, not so much for its sheer height (5700 feet) but for its sheer north face (about 600 feet straight down). The trail begins near a clear-cut and rises 1400 feet through increasingly thin forest before opening to the grand spectacle at the top: a 1929-vintage fire lookout on the tip-top of what appears to be a massive, stone-walled ship's bow. Look straight ahead for one of the most magnificent views of Mount Rainier anywhere in Washington. Look straight down, about 1400 feet, for an overhead view of Cora Lake. You'll want to spend some time here watching Rainier make its own weather, which in turn performs magical shadow-and-light shows across the mountain's full south face; you see these displays in better detail here than from anywhere inside Mount Rainier National Park. High Rock is a favorite early-morning and late-afternoon hangout for nature photographers. The fire lookout, the only one left in the Cowlitz Valley Ranger District (and one of only three in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest), is staffed in the summer. Recent Trip Reports
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Day hike
Features:
Ripe berries
Issues:
Bugs
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We'd attempted to find the High Rock trailhead once before, relying on Garmin & map coordinates to get us there....
We'd attempted to find the High Rock trailhead once before, relying on Garmin & map coordinates to get us there. After three separate tries - each taking us on an impassable road - we bailed. This time, using the Day Hike book directions, we easily found it (the road FR-84 & FR-8440) is in FINE shape.
The day was spectacularly beautiful. NO clouds, and a mild haze (very light for this time of year), and temperature in the low 80's made for a great hike. We encountered few on the trail (five couples and one family - complete with three loud, out-of-control young teens - heard throughout the hike by all; parents - WHY?! - - exuberant teens are fine, but the loud silliness you let them impose on the mountain was ridiculous). Three of the couples had dogs with them - this would be an excellent hike for the canines. We'll likely bring ours next time. The hike stays almost exclusively in the forest, except for brief ridge-top clearings about 2/3 of the way up and for the final 200 yards or so. The hike is fairly strenuous - it was a good workout to reach the top; 1.6 miles of nearly constant climbing. The grade is steady and the trail is nearly all hard-packed dirt. Tree roots are plentiful, but rarely exposed more than 2 or 3 inches. We hiked Pinnacle Saddle several weeks ago, and this was a steeper grade, but a MUCH smoother trail. The final 200 yards is up a granite prominence - one of the couples did not climb the final grade, fearful their footing would give way. There clearly has been a cable installed here to aid hikers to the lookout cabin, but only a few standards remain. Nonetheless, the easiest path up the fairly steep rocky face is along the path of these standards. Walking/hiking sticks help, and lug-soled boots are strongly encouraged. The granite prominence is impressive. And the drop-off is as well (600' + straight down). There are several deep cracks in the prominence that make for dramatic views. The lookout tower was open, and is in pretty good shape. From it you have tremendous 360 degree views of Rainier, the Tatoosh and Tatoosh Wilderness all the way down to St. Helens & Adams. Mt. Hood and Mt. Bachelor were not visible today, the haze seemingly thickening significantly after Adams and St. Helens. Bugs were nearly unbearable at the top. Deerflies, yellow jackets, and several hornets, and masses of other flying insects formed a cloud over the highest part of High Rock - while we were not bitten (thanks DEET), we could only manage to sit on the upper rock for a few moments before stepping down into the relatively bug-free sanctuary of the lookout tower (photos of this perch in several earlier posts by early summer hikers). The scramble down the rock is, as you'd expect, more unsettling than the trip up. Sure, careful footing is required - although I may well be exaggerating the severity of the incline. I know my wife and I were a bit surprised by how unsettled it made us feel - we'd not expected this from our review of earlier posts. The rest of the trip down was a breeze. We stopped several times to pick the ripe and plentiful Huckleberries, and still made it down in 40 minutes. Total time for the hike (including 25 minutes at the top): 2 hours and 10 minutes. We put this hike in our top 5 of the Rainier area hikes. We found the views to be awe-inspiring, but NOT superior to the views of similar topography/geography you get from the Pinnacle Saddle. Only that hike (Pinnacle Saddle), Upper Skyline, and Burroughs Mountains are superior in our opinion.
High Rock
— Jul 25, 2009
— gauk
Day hike
Features:
Wildflowers blooming
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I wanted to echo the last post that the road is in the best condition that I have ever seen...
I wanted to echo the last post that the road is in the best condition that I have ever seen and I have tried to access this road every year since 2004. Almost no potholes. The bridge at the beginning is a bit tattered but no problems crossing. MAKE SURE TO BRING INSECT REPELLANT! Got to the top around 9am and almost unbearable amounts of horse flys.
Youtube video uploaded: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ct0PKMILW7Q Day hike
Features:
Wildflowers blooming
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Not much new to report--have done this hike many times--downed trees on trail have been removed, this lookout is now...
Not much new to report--have done this hike many times--downed trees on trail have been removed, this lookout is now registered as a historic lookout,and---the biggest reason I am writing this---THEY HAVE FIXED THE ROAD!!!!! Yippeeeee! It was better than I have seen it in years!!!
Day hike
Features:
Wildflowers blooming
Issues:
Mud/Rockslide | Washouts
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This was a great hike! My brother and I decided this would be a good hike to start our season....
This was a great hike! My brother and I decided this would be a good hike to start our season. We missed the turn for the north road (85) thankfully, and ended up taking 84 instead. There were a lot of potholes to avoid, and some large branches on the road way, but for the most part, the drive on 84 was not bad at all. We started the hike around 2pm, and reached the top within an hour. It was a beautiful day, and the trees kept us cool on the way up. There are many places to stop and check out the scenery. You have great views of the mountains and the valley.
Once you reach the top, Mt. Rainier is nearly going to smack you in the face. Once I came up over the top of the rock, I nearly fell backward because I was not expecting the amazing sight that jumped out in front of me. There were a few down trees on the trail. They were pretty easy to climb over, or under if you're a bit on the short side like me. We tried took 85 back down so we could see the other side, and see what sights we might have missed by taking 84. ...Do not repeat out mistake. Thankfully we had high clearance and 4 wheel drive, but even then, we were very nearly about to turn around. This is a great hike for anyone who loves "The Mountain."
High Rock
— Jun 13, 2009
— Petri
Day hike
Issues:
Blowdowns | Road to trailhead inaccessible
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The six of us were looking forward to this trip to High Rock. Snow and blowdown made the road...
The six of us were looking forward to this trip to High Rock. Snow and blowdown made the road impassable one mile from the trail head. We aborted and headed back down to Hugo Peak.
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Driving Directions
From Tacoma, drive State Highway 7 east to Elbe and continue on Highway 706 to Ashford. Continue east and turn right onto Kernahan Road. At about 1.5 miles, turn right onto Forest Road 85. Proceed 5.8 miles to FR 8440. Turn right and continue 4.5 miles to the trailhead on the left.
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