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Hoh River-Five Mile Island

Last modified Oct 27, 2009 11:50 AM
Counting Rings-Hoh Rainforest Trail by Arlo Smith.

The most famous of all the Olympic
rain forests, the Hoh is one of the busiest places in Olympic National Park. A visitors center and a couple of well-groomed nature trails attract bus loads of admirers from Seattle to Seoul, Boston to Berlin. And its not just camera-toting tourists that invade this valley; pan-toting backpackers and caribiner-clanking climbers flock here too. The Hoh River Trail also provides access to Mount Olympus and the High Divide. But who can blame all of these people for coming here? The Hoh rain forest truly is one of the world's most spectacular places.

While the Hoh rain forest is a busy place, most hikers visit during the summer months and on autumn weekends. Come in the spring or even winter and experience a valley more sedate. Besides, with fewer people in the off-season, chances are good of witnessing members of the resident elk herd. But even if you end up hitting the trail on a busy day, the crowds thin out dramatically after only a couple of miles.

The hike to Five Mile Island is far enough to experience the old-growth grandeur and pure wildness of this valley, yet close enough that it can be done by most hikers, young and old. The trail is impeccably groomed, and the way virtually level, with minimal elevation change. Five Mile Island, with its wide grassy banks along the mighty rainforest river, was designed for whiling the afternoon away.

Start by following the paved Hall of Mosses Trail for 0.2 mile to a junction. Now on bona fide tread begin your journey through this valley of primeval forest. A cacophony of birdsong from wrens, nuthatches, woodpeckers, chickadees, and thrushes can be heard over the distant hum of the river. Pass by colonnades of spruce and under awnings of moss-cloaked maples. Licorice ferns and club mosses cling to overhanging trees like holiday decorations on New York's Fifth Avenue. And while the surroundings are lush, the understory is fairly open. Browsing elk keep the shrubs and bushes well trimmed.

In 1 mile get your first unobstructed view of the river. Gaze out to the High Divide and snow-capped Mount Tom, a peak on the Olympus massif. Pass the Mount Tom Creek Campsite at 2.3 miles; then climb above the river, catching glimpses of deep emerald pools below. Cross Mineral Creek by a lovely cascade. Five minutes later another cascade delights. At 2.9 miles come to a junction with the Mount Tom Trail. If you'd like, follow this path right 0.25 mile to open gravel bars and spectacular valley views.

Veering away from the river, the main path continues. Traverse impressive stands of Sitka spruce and at 4 miles come to the Cougar Creek cedar grove. Stand in awe beneath these trees, older than the great cathedrals of Europe-and just as inspiring. At 5.3 miles arrive at Five Mile Island. Formed by river channels, the island is an inviting grassy bottomland graced with maple glades. Sit by the churning river and enjoy views up the valley all the way to Bogachiel Peak. If it's raining, the nearby Happy Four Shelter (0.5 mile farther) will provide cover for your lunchtime break.

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Recent Trip Reports

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There are 50 trip reports for this hike. See all trip reports for this hike.
Wapaloosie #15 — May 27, 2005 — dluders
Day hike
Issues: Snow on trail
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This 2.6-mile-long trail is in great condition, and provides great southerly views of the Sherman Pass area. It doesn’t...

This 2.6-mile-long trail is in great condition, and provides great southerly views of the Sherman Pass area. It doesn’t reach all the way to the summit, but a quick off-trail hike through the open forest is easy to handle.

On a beautiful spring day with 70-degree summit temperatures, the hike along the Wapaloosie Trail #15 was most pleasant. It took me 2 hours to leisurely hike up out of the lodgepole pine forest, into Douglas Firs, and out into an open slope covered with sagebrush and grasses. One can easily see 60 miles to the southeast and northeast. Above the ridgeline, there were patches of rapidly-melting of snow from the mild winter, but bring your own water – there are no springs or other water sources.

If you start out early and want to make a loop hike, it’s possible to drop back down to the Kettle Crest Trail #13, head northwards to Scar Mountain (7,046 feet) and Copper Butte (7,140 feet), then descend back down to Albion Hill Road via the Old Stage Road Trail #75. If you want to just return back to the Wapaloosie Trailhead, allow 1-1/4 hours for your descent.

I could tell that I was the first one up there this season, since there were no footprints in the patches of snow on the summit. Although I only did this as a dayhike, I could tell that the campground at the Wapaloosie Trailhead, and the campsite at the summit, would make a great weekend destination to explore the Kettle Range.

Although I didn’t see any wildlife (except for birds and chipmunks), I found this hike to be more pleasant than the trail through the burned timber of nearby Copper Butte (7,140 feet). The views are better, and one doesn’t have to peer through the “comb” of dead trees to see distant vistas. The trail is easy enough for children and horses, and offers quiet solitude.

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Hoh River #15 — Feb 20, 2005 — Angela and Sasha
Day hike
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We finally got to spend three days in the Olympics. On Sunday we did about a five mile stretch...

We finally got to spend three days in the Olympics. On Sunday we did about a five mile stretch of the Hoh River trail, the weather was great and it was wonderful to walk amongst the great ones. It was icy and cold in spots and then sunny and warm in others. We kept getting in and out of our warm clothes due to changing conditions in the forest. When we left we saw three elk standing there and when we got out of the car they were close enought to touch. Needless to say we took lots of pictures! Happy Hiking :0)

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Hoh River #15 — Nov 11, 2004 — tenderfeet
Day hike
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Hiked the Hoh River trai to Olympus on Wednesday, day hiked to Glacier meadows on Thursday. Climbed the boulder...

Hiked the Hoh River trai to Olympus on Wednesday, day hiked to Glacier meadows on Thursday. Climbed the boulder field to the lateral moraine and beheld the Blue Glacier-- Whoa! Who knew? A once in a lifetime experience, incredible to get so high up in November without snow

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Hoh River #15 — Aug 09, 2004 — manysteps
Day hike
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Trail in very good shape and clear all the way through to Glacier Meadows with one exception. About half...

Trail in very good shape and clear all the way through to Glacier Meadows with one exception. About half a mile from Glacier Meadows there is a washed out gully where a new trail had to be hacked into the hillside. A downed tree was cut but for some reason it was left too long. The tree overhangs at a narrow and steep point on the trail so take care to watch your head and pack as you pass.

Rain on Friday so trail was muddy and slippery in places. Clear and hot weather Saturday through Monday. Beautiful day for a climb on Sunday and made it to the summit of Olympus. Crampons useful on Blue Glacier but snow was soft leading to Snow Dome and beyond. Route through Crystal pass made use of snow bridge that is likely gone by now so passing the bergschrund may now be problematic. Easy going round back then up over false summit, down to saddle then up last snow ramp to the summit block. A beautiful day on top with clear views of the Pacific Ocean, Vancouver Island, Mts Baker, Rainier, St. Helens and Adams. On return amazing streams of water running across the Blue Glacier.

A long hike out on Monday but rewarded with beautiful scenery along the river and a refreshing swim in Lake Crescent on the drive back.

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Hoh River #15 — May 29, 2004 — Kevin Buffum
Day hike
Issues: Mudholes
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Wonderful, wet, mudfest! Elk in the parking lot. Deer in camp. Bald eagles on the river. Moss, lichens, fungus...

Wonderful, wet, mudfest! Elk in the parking lot. Deer in camp. Bald eagles on the river. Moss, lichens, fungus as thick as I've ever seen it. The trail is clear (although muddy) to the Olympus Ranger Station, about 10 miles from the trail head. Just wish that the clouds had lifted high enough to see the what lies above. kb

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Location
Hoh River (#15)
Olympics -- West
Olympic National Park
3.29 out of 5
Based on 7 votes
Featured In...

Day Hiking: Olympic Peninsula
by Craig Romano

To buy the full book, including maps, elevation profiles, photos, and more, visit:

A portion of all book sales from the links above benefits WTA and helps protect and maintain our trails.

Information about this hike provided in partnership with Mountaineers Books. Copyright © Craig Romano/The Mountaineers Books

Roundtrip 10.6 miles
Elevation Gain 300 ft
Highest Point 800 ft
Features
Rivers
Old growth
Guidebooks & Maps
Day Hiking: Olympic Peninsula (Romano - Mountaineers Books)
Green Trails Seven Lakes Basin-Mt Olympus Climbing No. 133S
Custom Correct Seven Lakes Basin-Hoh

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Driving Directions
(47.8597, -123.9337) Open in new window
Red Marker Hoh River-Five Mile Island
47.8596666667 -123.933716667

From Forks travel south on US 101 for 12 miles to the Upper Hoh Road. (From Kalaloch head north on US 101 for 20 miles.) Head left (east) on the Upper Hoh Road for 18 miles to its end at a large parking lot, visitors center, and trailhead. Water and restrooms available.

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