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Hoh River-Five Mile Island

Last modified Oct 27, 2009 11:50 AM
Counting Rings-Hoh Rainforest Trail by Arlo Smith.

The most famous of all the Olympic
rain forests, the Hoh is one of the busiest places in Olympic National Park. A visitors center and a couple of well-groomed nature trails attract bus loads of admirers from Seattle to Seoul, Boston to Berlin. And its not just camera-toting tourists that invade this valley; pan-toting backpackers and caribiner-clanking climbers flock here too. The Hoh River Trail also provides access to Mount Olympus and the High Divide. But who can blame all of these people for coming here? The Hoh rain forest truly is one of the world's most spectacular places.

While the Hoh rain forest is a busy place, most hikers visit during the summer months and on autumn weekends. Come in the spring or even winter and experience a valley more sedate. Besides, with fewer people in the off-season, chances are good of witnessing members of the resident elk herd. But even if you end up hitting the trail on a busy day, the crowds thin out dramatically after only a couple of miles.

The hike to Five Mile Island is far enough to experience the old-growth grandeur and pure wildness of this valley, yet close enough that it can be done by most hikers, young and old. The trail is impeccably groomed, and the way virtually level, with minimal elevation change. Five Mile Island, with its wide grassy banks along the mighty rainforest river, was designed for whiling the afternoon away.

Start by following the paved Hall of Mosses Trail for 0.2 mile to a junction. Now on bona fide tread begin your journey through this valley of primeval forest. A cacophony of birdsong from wrens, nuthatches, woodpeckers, chickadees, and thrushes can be heard over the distant hum of the river. Pass by colonnades of spruce and under awnings of moss-cloaked maples. Licorice ferns and club mosses cling to overhanging trees like holiday decorations on New York's Fifth Avenue. And while the surroundings are lush, the understory is fairly open. Browsing elk keep the shrubs and bushes well trimmed.

In 1 mile get your first unobstructed view of the river. Gaze out to the High Divide and snow-capped Mount Tom, a peak on the Olympus massif. Pass the Mount Tom Creek Campsite at 2.3 miles; then climb above the river, catching glimpses of deep emerald pools below. Cross Mineral Creek by a lovely cascade. Five minutes later another cascade delights. At 2.9 miles come to a junction with the Mount Tom Trail. If you'd like, follow this path right 0.25 mile to open gravel bars and spectacular valley views.

Veering away from the river, the main path continues. Traverse impressive stands of Sitka spruce and at 4 miles come to the Cougar Creek cedar grove. Stand in awe beneath these trees, older than the great cathedrals of Europe-and just as inspiring. At 5.3 miles arrive at Five Mile Island. Formed by river channels, the island is an inviting grassy bottomland graced with maple glades. Sit by the churning river and enjoy views up the valley all the way to Bogachiel Peak. If it's raining, the nearby Happy Four Shelter (0.5 mile farther) will provide cover for your lunchtime break.

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Recent Trip Reports

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There are 50 trip reports for this hike. See all trip reports for this hike.
Hoh River #15 — May 26, 1999 — ONP
Day hike
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The Hoh River trail is now open to stock use and in good shape for the first nine miles...

The Hoh River trail is now open to stock use and in good shape for the first nine miles to Olympus Guard Station. The park trail crew will be clearing the trail to snow line in the near future. Snow line remains below Elk Lake.

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Hoh River #15 — Apr 25, 1999 — ONP
Day hike
Issues: Snow on trail
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Snow become solid but hard below 2000' elevation, about one half mile above the High Hoh Bridge. The trail...

Snow become solid but hard below 2000' elevation, about one half mile above the High Hoh Bridge. The trail has been damaged damaged by avalanches in several places a mile above the bridge. There is steep hard snow in the switchbacks below Elk Lake. The lake is frozen and covered with snow seven to ten feet deep. A dead (stinky) goat is reported in the shelter at Hoh Lake. Above the lake, the trail is completely obscured by snow ten feet or more in depth. Recommended to be expert in map and compass, and carry an altimeter for travel beyond the lake. There are many avalanches that have come down across the trail above Hoh Lake and there is no sign or clue of where the trail is. Near Jemrod Creek, travel is along a cliff on very steep and exposed terrain; belaying is recommended. Snow depth is over fifteen feet near Glacier Meadows. Avalanche hazard above Glacier Meadows.

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Hoh River #15 — Mar 22, 1999 — ONP
Day hike
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There is a forty foot long washout of the Hoh Trail just upstream of the junction...

There is a forty foot long washout of the Hoh Trail just upstream of the junction with Hoh Lake Trail. Six big trees were undercut by the river and took the trail out with their rootwads when they fell. The washout can be skirted without major problems, but the snow above Olympus Guard Station is reported to be deep and collapsing.

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<B>Hoh River # — Aug 19, 1998 — Ali
Day hike
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The Olympics</B><BR> My sister and I went on the Hoh River trail in August. We decided to go on that...
The Olympics
My sister and I went on the Hoh River trail in August. We decided to go on that trail because it was the longest one out of the other Hoh rainforest trails. We went a total of 10 miles up. We had a great time despite some small problems. It was raining almost constantly with some sun breaks, although we were covered by the canopy most of the time, so it was actually humid and nice. Once you get 3 miles or so up then it starts to get more beutiful. We came across about 3 waterfalls, and played in them for a while to cool off. We were on the trail for 4 days. I strongly recommend having mace and cow bells, because there were cougar warnings all over at the recreational area. I really liked the fact that you had to sign in, at the rec. area. The trail is mainly cross country with some hills occasionally. My sister and I being young 23, and I 20, we were definately inexperienced, and we packed in with 100 pound packs. We decided to go in with 45 pound packs, next time. WATER- we ran out of water, so we did the boiling water thing, although we got sick, if you know what I mean, the last day of the trip, and that was NOT fun!!! I recommend boiling and filtering and tablets, hey why not' There were elk all over the place, and fecees as well. Sites-- Day 1 we stayed at the 4th place up. Not recommended, for there were a lot of people there, like families who had kids. Day 2 we crossed a little foot bridge that is like a fallen tree that's cut flat, with a railing, and stayed at that designated place. Day 3 we crossed another foot brige and went off trail and followed a animal trail (with our compasses, so as to not get lost) this trail put us on a little side stream that was about a quarter block from the hoh river. This is where we caught a 12 inch rainbow, and 1 baby salmon a couple inches long that we threw back. We ate the rainbow and it was wild and great. We tried fishing on the Hoh river, but it was the wrong time of season I guess. This last place was the last place to go before it got cold, and black flies were a regular occurance. On the 4th day it took half a day to pack out to the rec. area. This trail is a horse trail also and horse poop is not too bad, although the horses make big ruts, and big mud pits occasionally. Evereything makes up for it in the end, and I would reccomend and Internal backpack and light weight and a water purification system of some type so that you don't get diarriha. This is not a very populated trail and you don't have to deal with a lot of people. ANIMALS- There were raccoons trying to get our food that were in bags in a tree, and elk are everywhere and are not shy( a buck charged us less than 10 feet away) so be cautious, the bucks are MEAN!! We also saw chipmunks and some weird looking small deer. Cougars are a warning in the park and we saw tracks on occasion near the waters edge, just keep your wits about you and never let your guard down, and don't be alone, and you'll be fine. Remember that this is a park and don't be too antimedated. This is the most beutiful park I have seen so far and my sister and I have gone to almost a couple in Verlot and Olympia. It truly is a rainforest, like they say. Oh and by the way take a great aps camera, because if you don't you'll wish you had, for that area is truly one of washington's greatest places. There were people from all over the world who signed in in the rec. area, and we were among a few from washington. Other places: Check out Forks Park and Lake cresent looked cool as well. Be prepared for wasting half the day on the road. We came from Everett, WA. and we left at 6 and got there at 12:00pm. Well worth the drive I'm tellin ya!!!!
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Hoh River — May 11, 1998 — Jay Janousek
Day hike
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I spent Saturday, May 8 through Tuesday May 12 on the Hoh river trail. Camped at the Olympus Guard...

I spent Saturday, May 8 through
Tuesday May 12 on the Hoh river trail. Camped at the Olympus Guard Station (ranger station) Saturday and Sunday. Trail in good condition. Didn't run into many people. There were only two other campers at the ranger station. The hike to the ranger station is very pleasant. The meadows are in good shape and the flowers are beginning to bloom. Second day without rain. The meadow at the ranger station is full of deer. Sunday evening and Monday morning I counted at least nine. Spoke with four hikers who reported a mother bear with cub in the Elk Lake area. Monday morning hiked to Elk Lake. It had rained overnight but was dry again Monday. About 2/3 of the way from the foot bridge to Elk Lake but before Martin Falls I ran across the mother bear and single cub. They were below the trail from me. The cub peaked at me from around a tree it had scaled. I made my way around them and continued on. It was cold at the Lake and I was glad I had brought my gloves and hat. On the way back from the Lake I rounded the trail and approximately 100 feet in front of me on the trail were the mother bear and cub. She looked at me and decided to continue straight into the forest rather than up the trail. She didn't seem that concerned about me. The cub, however, was very curious and stood up on its hind legs to look at me over Mom's shoulder. Monday night back at the ranger station was filled with more deer but no elk. Plenty of sunshine Tuesday as I made my way back to the trailhead at the Hoh Rain Forest Vistors Center. The meadow at File Mile Island was absolutely beautiful and I decided to eat my lunch there. Overall the trail is in good shape, the nights were mild from the ranger station and below and cooler at Elk Lake. No insect problem. I saw very few hikers (none at all on my way to and from Elk Lake). The only way to see this trail is during the week!

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Location
Hoh River (#15)
Olympics -- West
Olympic National Park
3.29 out of 5
Based on 7 votes
Featured In...

Day Hiking: Olympic Peninsula
by Craig Romano

To buy the full book, including maps, elevation profiles, photos, and more, visit:

A portion of all book sales from the links above benefits WTA and helps protect and maintain our trails.

Information about this hike provided in partnership with Mountaineers Books. Copyright © Craig Romano/The Mountaineers Books

Roundtrip 10.6 miles
Elevation Gain 300 ft
Highest Point 800 ft
Features
Rivers
Old growth
Guidebooks & Maps
Day Hiking: Olympic Peninsula (Romano - Mountaineers Books)
Green Trails Seven Lakes Basin-Mt Olympus Climbing No. 133S
Custom Correct Seven Lakes Basin-Hoh

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Driving Directions
(47.8597, -123.9337) Open in new window
Red Marker Hoh River-Five Mile Island
47.8596666667 -123.933716667

From Forks travel south on US 101 for 12 miles to the Upper Hoh Road. (From Kalaloch head north on US 101 for 20 miles.) Head left (east) on the Upper Hoh Road for 18 miles to its end at a large parking lot, visitors center, and trailhead. Water and restrooms available.

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