A four day fall backpacking trip to the heart of the Entiat Mountains.

Day 1: Hiked up the Entiat River Trail until we reached the Ice Creek trail in sunny weather. Both trails were in very good shape, no bugs, plenty of fall color. Snow started on the final stretch to the Ice Lakes. There were only a few inches of loose snow that obscured the rocks underneath so footing was challenging on the steep hill. There was perhaps a foot of snow at ice lakes with much deeper drifts in places. There were lots of golden larches at the lakes. We camped at Lower Ice Lake.

Day 2: After a very cold night, found low clouds that reduced visibility. We spent the day exploring the Ice Lakes and surrounding areas. Got on to the shoulder of Mount Maud, but didn't have the time or visibility to get much higher.

Day 3: Sun again. Spent the morning exploring more of the Ice Lakes and one of the nearby knolls. Found great views of many mountains near and far. We packed up camp in the early afternoon, and headed down the Ice Creek Trail to the Pomas Creek Trail. The trail was clear of snow until about the last mile or so. Dusk caught us at Pomas Pass, so we made camp.

Day 4: Hiked to Larch Lakes from Pomas Pass. This is a high trail with excellent views of the surrounding mountains. It had about 6 inches to a foot of fresh snow, so it posed no problems. Upper Larch Lake is a great lunch spot. After lunch we headed down the Garland Peak Trail toward Cow Creek Meadows. The trail had about a foot of fresh snow. It was easy to follow due to a set of footprints made by someone clearly familiar with the trail. Without the prints it would have been challenging to stay on the trail in places. There were plenty of great views of surrounding mountains. At the first intersection we left the Garland Peak Trail and descended to Cow Creek Meadows, then to Myrtle Lake. Finally we got back on the Entiat River Trail and followed it back to the car.

This was a great fall trip with lots of fall color, including plenty of golden larches, among some very rugged mountains. We saw only two hikers on the first day, nobody on the second and third day, and a few hunters near the trailhead on the fourth day. The nights got very cold. This trip requires a warm sleeping bag.

These lakes have been on my list for several years now. I attempted them several years ago, but broke my thumb on the approach and had to bail.

Previously, I approached via Carne Mountain high route, but this time I elected to use Leroy Creek Basin for its directness.

The only events on the approach were with equipment. I could not get my Suunto altimeter/watch out of blinking mode at the TH, nor get it to switch modes. I finally popped the battery out, put it back in, and everything seemed to work fine - for about a minute. Then it went completely dead. A new battery made no difference.

The other malfunction was a new hose on my Camelback that would not feed me water - as if it were vapor locked. Still trying to resolve that one. I had a water bottle, so it was a non-issue. I just used the Camelback for hauling water and filling the bottle.

I left the TH at 10:00 am and made good time up the Phelps Creek trail. I forgot just how steep the Leroy Creek trail is. It definitely woke my legs up.

I arrived in Leroy Creek Basin and admired the spires of Seven Fingered Jack directly above. What a setting. All I can remember from a previous climb was how loose the boulders were up there, and the lack of appeal the mountain had for me on this day.

As I followed the trail around the basin I came to the waterfall, and the crossing of the stream below it. This is where I screwed up. I didn't see that the trail continued around a rib on the other side of the stream, I only saw a path going up beside the waterfall. And so I went. Of course, all this elevation gain had to be lost on the boulder field in order to cross the prominent "cleft" feature below Maude. Definitely some time lost.

From there on the route was straight forward up to the notch, then up to the saddle on the south ridge of Maude. 4,100' gain from the TH to here. Not bad.

I descended to Upper Ice Lake and found a camp on a rock overlooking the lake, sharing the lake with one other party. Arrival time was 4:30 pm.

That evening I scouted the area around the lake for the trail shown on the Green Trails map that connects the upper and lower lake. I didn't find it. But in the process, I did lose my topo map. SO, now no watch, no altimeter, and no map!

I returned to camp and retreated to my bivy sack, where I watched the stars until I fell asleep. At some time in the night I was awakened by an animal sniffing at the head of my bivy sack. I awoke the next morning to find baby goat tracks all over my campsite.

The morning proved beautiful, and to my surprise, Upper Ice Lake actually held a reflection - not very common for an exposed, large body of water.

The stillness in the water didn't last long however, and soon I found myself wandering down to the lower lake. I followed the outlet stream down to a lower "shelf", and enjoyed the reflection in a tarn.

Lower Ice Lake was only about 15 minutes from the upper lake, with much scenery to be had in between. I didn't see a soul at the lower lake during my visits until very late my last night when a couple of hikers arrived via the Entiat.

I wandered around to the far east end of the lake and found a place to relax and enjoy the beauty of distant peaks and the larch reflected in the lake.

From there I continued around the northeast side of the lake and picked up the old trail that I had failed to find the night before up above. The trail is very distinct down low, and is a much easier route than following the outlet stream.

I returned to camp and lounged about for a few hours, even taking a short nap in the mid-day sun. Then I returned to the lower lake for an afternoon visit.

I returned to camp much earlier than expected, learning that shadows come early at the lower lake.

Saturday night I again went to bed under the stars, expecting to see clouds rolling in. I new a system was suppose to roll in Sunday morning, and expected it to arrive early. At 1:30 am I felt the first rain drops hit my face. By the time I opened my sleeping bag and sat up, the rain drops had turned to snow flurries. Then they stopped. I had a couple of more showers throughout the night, but they never lasted for more than a couple of minutes.

Morning came and the skies to the east had a dark band of clouds. I knew there wasn't going to be any dramatic sunrise photography to be had, so I immediately began packing. Eventually, the sun did conquer though.

I left camp at 8:00 and climbed back up to the saddle in about 20 minutes, then descended to the ridge notch along the Carne Mountain high route. Here I had a decision to make. I wanted to return via the high route having done it once previously. However I had no map (lost) nor altimeter (batteries), and I remembered some difficult spots (primarily a meadow) along the route that could prove challenging with a system moving in. I decided that it wasn't worth the risk and headed back down via Leroy Creek. I still think this is the faster route, as I arrived back at the TH at 11:30 am - 3-1/2 hours later.

We opted to head to ice lakes via the spider meadow, leroy creek route as i read that it was more difficult than the Entiat route and shaved something like 7-9 miles off the trail . this was step for step the most difficult hike i did in 2010.

hiking up phelps creek is a breeze, take a right at leroy creek and strait up. there is a trail most of the time all the way up to leroy basin. but we blazed a few of our own after that. the hardest time we had was the boulder fields and scrambles up to the saddle to ice lakes. it was just us and two other hikers that came via entiat and camped at lower lake. the area is beautiful high country.

we hiked down the carne mountain, old Gib trail path making a loop back to the car. from ice lakes down to the valley floor we were lost. we followed our map as best we could hiking the ridge and then down the scurry to the trees. we landed right back on top of the trail. saw lots of marmot and deer, 1 goat far off.

To read this report in its original form, with photos, check out my blog: http://dontlookdown.wordpress.com/[…]/

And, more photos at Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/[…]/

Somehow, I found myself with an extended weekend at the very end of August; Nicole didn't. Thus, the table was set for my Second Annual Solo Backpacking trip, a trip set to coincide with my twenty-ninth birthday. Certain conditions were to be met. The hike couldn't be too high on our must-do list, because Nicole wouldn't be along to enjoy it. I also wanted something that would challenge me. And why not make something that's a little further away than our normal weekend overnighter?

In the end, I decided on Ice Lakes, via the Entiat River. 100 Hikes... put the round-trip mileage at ~28 and recommended allowing 3-5 days. Ice Lakes were on my list, and the criterion fit. I'd be carrying a heavy backpack (~45lbs) but reasoned that the elevation gain would be spread over so much mileage that it'd be no problem. More training for the Canadian Rockies! My itinerary was flexible: I'd leave Thursday, make the lakes Friday, spend Saturday exploring or summiting Mt. Maude, and return Sunday. Or, if the forecasted thunderstorms came to fruition, I might return Saturday instead. Whatevs.

I left straight from work on Thursday around 12:30, and pulled into the trailhead parking lot at the end of Entiat River Road at 16:00. The drive was nice, taking me past Leavenworth for the first time through Wenatchee and north along the Columbia River through an interesting landscape. Though there were signs warning of big horn sheep crossings, I saw none.

I booted up and hit the trail at 16:20, setting a comfortably quick pace in order to put as many easy miles behind me as possible on the first day. The trail starts off wide and dry, mixed-use as it is (hikers, horses, motorcycles). The trees turn from somewhat unhealthy-looking to fully fire-scarred and destroyed as one makes progress down the Entiat River trail.

At 17:55, I entered Glacier Peak Wilderness, ~4.2 miles from the trailhead. The trail narrowed. Deer met me head-on on the trail. The sun lowered behind the ridge to the west. Every snap, crackle, and pop in the forest had me looking over my shoulder; I attributed each one to another deer, fearing a bear or cougar as the sounds stalked me along the trail. I realized only later that the heat of the day had gone from the naked, burned trees. And now they contracted in the shade like an old house in night's silence.

I pressed on, coming to the intersection with the Ice Creek trail at 19:30, and crossing over Entiat River via logjam minutes later. The crossing was fairly simple, and there were unoccupied campsites on either side of the river. After crossing, I set up camp, ate banana chips and a pepperoni stick for dinner to avoid cooking, and went to bed an hour or so later. The sky was clear and a beautiful half-moon hung visible through the trees.

***

I woke up Friday at 06:00 and stepped out of the tent. My birthday! I busied myself with breakfast and breaking down camp, which took nearly two hours without Nicole's help.

Once again, the trail works through burn, gaining slightly more elevation than it had earlier. Views improve, either across Ice Creek to the Entiat Mountains (including unnamed 8000'+ peaks I'd mistaken for Mt. Maude) or uphill through avalanche chutes toward the Spectacle Buttes.

I crossed Ice Creek, high-stepping straight through it the first time and using a well-placed and well-cairned log the second time, working my way up through healthier forest and patchy meadows toward the head of the valley. In one large meadow, the real Mt. Maude revealed herself. At 09:50, I reached the end of the Ice Creek trail at a campsite below cliffs and waterfalls. From here, the trail to Ice Lakes is unmaintained, but obviously well-travelled and easy to follow. After resting and eating, I took off at 10:20 to climb the final mile to Lower Ice Lake.

And a climb it was. Gaining some ~1500', in such a short distance, without a single switchback, with a 45lb backpack, was quite difficult. I had to watch every step, avoiding loose rock that sat on dry slopes ready to slide away beneath me. I stopped every several steps, sat down dozens of times, sometimes right on the path. Marmot's whistles and pika squeals kept me company. A weasel ran right behind me, startling me up from a spot I might still be sitting today otherwise. Larch trees appeared sporadically amongst the others. I could guess at the distance remaining above me. On my final approach, my quadriceps nearly burst into spasm.

At 12:40, over two hours since I'd left the valley floor, I took a few more ascending steps and Lower Ice Lake lay before me. I gave thanks and dropped down along the lake, setting up camp on a picturesque peninsula after only a moment's hesitation but several minutes of rest.

I napped, filtered water, ate, put on my tent's rainfly. Another person arrived at the lake—the first I'd seen, though he'd be joined by others in his party later. I set aside any ideas I'd had for further exploration: exhausted as I was, I could only walk around Lower Ice Lake in my flip-flops, taking photographs.

Clouds rolled in, the wind picked up. I ate a homemade cinnamon roll for my birthday dinner and retreated into the tent to drink Glenrothers whisky and read Anna Karenina, which I'd insisted on carrying with me. I wrestled with my plans: stay tomorrow night as well, or head out if the weather doesn't cooperate?

The wind continued to strengthen as night fell. I'd set up my tent to view Mt. Maude out my window, which ended up being broadside to the wind. Gusts were strong enough to collapse the tent into me; I stuck my arm out of my sleeping bag to brace one of the poles several times.

Eventually I was able to sleep, only to wake up with a full bladder around 22:30 to an eerie calm. I walked out into the night and came back relieved. Not a few minutes later, the wind began again, this time accompanied by rain.

I decided that if it wasn't sunny and clear the next morning, I'd hike all the way back out to the car, stop at McDonald's for my yearly McNugget allotment, and be home Saturday evening. I fell asleep sometime later.

***

Saturday morning I woke up again at 06:00. It was quite cold and cloudy. I looked up at Mt. Maude, her summit hidden in clouds, and set myself to breaking down camp. I'd be heading all the way out today after all.

At 08:00 I was on my way down through The Rockfield of 10,000 Pika. I nearly hyperextended my knee, but made better time going down than up. Though each step had to be watched, I wasn't exhausted as I was while gaining the elevation.

By 09:30 I was back on the Ice Creek trail, and I crossed the Entiat River at 11:15. I had ~8 miles to go. Just keep moving, I told myself. My feet were starting to bother me. My shoulders were beginning to ache.

I kept moving, feeling blisters blossoming in strange places on the bottom of my feet. I stopped to address them—unsuccessfully, as it turns out. If I stopped moving, the pain upon re-starting would intensify. I began to limp.

The last ~five miles were pretty terrible. When I made it within ~two miles of the trailhead, I rolled my left ankle. I sang songs over and over in my mind to pass the time, looking at my watch regularly, figuring out just when I would arrive at the parking lot.

14:44. My backpack was off, and my boots weren't far behind. I ate some Advil with a shot of whisky. My water bladder was empty. It was my longest day on trail. But I was heading home...

***

This trip was a challenge. And it was a success. My only disappointment is that the weather kept me from staying another day, making it to Upper Ice Lake and perhaps the summit of Mt. Maude. Then again, that most likely would've made for an even more difficult day on the way out.

I guess I'm saving Upper Ice Lake and Mt. Maude for a later date. I'll definitely look in to taking the shorter approach, though. One trip up to Ice Lakes via Entiat River and Ice Creek is enough for me!

Stats: ~26 miles round-trip from the Entiat River trailhead to Lower Ice Lake and back, spread over 3 days, with ~3800'+ of gain (and loss). Also, some big blisters.
Day 1: ~8.1 miles to the Entiat River crossing, ~3:10 hiking time, ~1200' gain.
Day 2: ~4.7 miles to Lower Ice Lake, ~4:50 hiking time, ~2600' gain.
Day 3: ~12.8 miles to the trailhead, ~6:40 hiking time, 3800' loss.