Ask Washington hikers to describe their idea of "wilderness" and most will talk passionately about alpine lakes, towering spires of rock, glaciers, ancient forests, and deep river valleys. One of Washington's finest protected wilderness areas, though, fails to meet any of those expectations.

Deep in the heart of the dry, desert country of the lower Columbia Basin sits the Juniper Dunes Wilderness Area, the only Bureau of Land Management wilderness in the entire state. Covering just 7,140 acres, it is also the only wilderness area in the state to be completely enclosed by barbed wire--put there not to keep the animals in but to keep the motorcycles and ORVs out. Fortunately, the wire works and the deer and coyotes can leap over or under the wire as they please.

The Juniper Dunes Wilderness exists as an oasis of natural wonder just a few minutes drive from the urban sprawl of Pasco. The only trail in this wilderness is an old jeep track that slices across the southern end of the small desert preserve, but no trails are needed here. To experience the wonders of this place, simply disappear into the sand dunes and juniper groves.

You'll find six large groves of the desert juniper trees, the largest remaining concentration of this species this far north. Between the well-spaced groves are individual trees--some of which truly could be classified as old-growth specimens. Many of the broad, fragrant trees are hundreds of years old, but this is no old growth forest. Aside from the few large groves, most of the trees exist in small clumps of no more than two or three trees scattered across the rolling hills.

A wonderful array of plant life populates these low hills, which are indeed sand dunes--but not in the "Sahara Desert" sense of the term. A few barren mounds of shifting sand are present, but most dunes are carpeted with sagebrush, wild rye grass, Indian ricegrass, an assortment of such desert flowers as phlox, larkspur, and blue-eyed Marys, and a few small species of cactus including prickly pear and Simpson's hedgehog.

A complex web of animal tracks criss-crosses the sands. As you explore the wilderness area, watch for mule deer, coyotes, foxes, rattlesnakes, deer mice, kangaroo rats, porcupines, badgers, rabbits, and skunks, among others. Red-tailed hawks, turkey vultures, prairie falcons, and golden eagles circle overhead, and great horned owls stare from the thick branches of the junipers. I can't even begin to identify the assortment of small birds that flitter around the sagebrush and juniper branches.

This small wilderness is a wildlife-lover's dream. The lack of trails means you can roam freely throughout the area, following bird songs and animal tracks. If you get lost, a hike of not more than 4.5 miles in any direction will take you to the boundary of the wilderness area, marked with a strong, steel, barbed wire fence (to keep out the motorcycle and four-wheel-drive enthusiasts who recreate on the surrounding BLM property).

Spring is the ideal time to visit as the desert bursts with new growth and increased animal activity. The junipers acquire fresh shoots of new, green needles, the desert flowers are all blooming, the mammals are scurrying around looking for mates and new homes and some fresh food, and the reptiles are still largely inactive due to the still-cold nights.

Hikers can pitch camp anywhere they please in the wilderness, but the lack of any water source means folks will have to pack in all the water they need for their stay. In the spring, that's not too hard, but by July, when daytime temperatures can reach and exceed 100 degrees F., it means carrying several gallons of water on your back. If you go, take plenty of water, a good pair of binoculars, and a camera. You'll want to record this unique jewel of a wilderness area.