Loowit Trail
The Loowit Trail circumambulates Mount St. Helens, dropping into and climbing out of deep gullies left by the eruption of St. Helens and its subsequent debris flows. This hike is very challenging, with sparse camps, little water and some sketchy sections of loose pumice. Since the eruption denuded the slopes of the mountain, you’re almost always in sun, so make sure you wear your hat and bring sunscreen. It is all too easy to get a severe sunburn on these slopes.
With those cautions in mind, you’ll fully appreciate the stark, otherworldly beauty of the blast zone. Vast fields of pumice gouged with deep gullies frame the gaping immensity of the mountain. There are multiple points where you can access the Loowit, here are four of the most commonly used access points. (If you want a taste of the Loowit without the full meal deal, each of these hikes is a great way to sample the mountain.) Windy Ridge Follow the Truman Trail (#207) for approx. 3 miles, then take the Windy Trail (#216E) for another 1 mile to the Loowit (#216). This route will take you closest to “The Breach” and Loowit Falls. Note that camping is not allowed in the blast zone which includes the northern portion of the mountain between the South Fork of the Toutle River and Windy Pass. Ape Canyon Trailhead Park at the Ape Canyon Trailhead and go 5.5 miles on the Ape Canyon Trail (#234) to the junction with the Loowit (#216). Turn right (north) and hike another mile or two across the spectacular Plains of Abraham. Note this route is very popular with mountain bikers. Climber’s Bivouac Take the Ptarmigan Trail (#216A) 2 miles to the junction with the Loowit (#216). Turn left or right to experience the Loowit as it skirts the treeline along the volcano’s southern flank. Blue Lake Trailhead Follow the Toutle Trail (#238) for about 3 miles. Ascend the Sheep Canyon Trail (#240) 2.5 miles to the Loowit. You can make a nice lollipop loop by following the Loowit another 2.5 miles north to its intersection with the terminus of the Toutle Trail, then following the Toutle Trail approx 5 miles back to the Blue Lake Trailhead. Circumnavigating Mount St. Helens Some recommend starting from the south at Climber’s Bivouac while others chose to start on the NE side from Windy Ridge. In either case you need to plan on crossing the blast zone in one push as camping is prohibited between the South Fork of the Toutle River and Windy Pass. Since the most rugged section is on the west side where major washouts require extensive detours and/or scrambles, plan your trip to hit those sections when you are relatively fresh. Although each year hikers do complete the Loowit, others have turned back unable to find safe passage through some of the gullies. Since conditions change so frequently and people’s route finding ability and tolerance for risk vary, it is impossible to predict if the circumnavigation is “doable” at any given time for any hiker. This route description is for a counter-clockwise circumnavigation hike starting from the north side where the Windy Trail (#216E) meets the Loowit. Your first seven miles will afford near constant views of denuded slopes as you cross the blast zone looking into “The Breach”. As you come around the mountain to the NW, the route drops into the valley carved by the South Fork of the Toutle. Here the trail is frequently obliterated by the river and sliding loose rock and pumice. Crossing this gully is the first of three major wash-outs on the route. Continuing on the Loowit, the trail climbs up into remnant old growth forest on Crescent Ridge, and then enters a zone of burned trees and flower-rife meadows. You’ll enter subalpine forest, the trail climbing and falling until it again ascends to timberline near 4,700 ft. About a ½ mile beyond the junction with the Sheep Canyon Trail the Loowit was obliterated by a washout leaving a huge chasm with near vertical walls in its place. The Forest Service completed a bypass route that adds another few miles, but it is much safer than attempting to scramble through the massive gully. Next, you’ll reach the junction with the Butte Camp Trail #238A. You can drop steeply along this trail—roughly 800 feet—to Butte Camp, if you need to make camp. Most of the trail from here on in is rugged as it runs along lava beds to the junction with the June Lake Trail. For a pleasant campsite, follow the June Lake Trail (#216B) ¼ mile to its namesake lake. Continuing around the SE side of the Mountain you will encounter the 3rd major washout on the Loowit at Muddy Creek. It is approx. 4 miles from the June Lake Trail junction. Like the previous two washed out sections, the steep canyon walls and loose rock make it difficult and dangerous to scramble through the chasm. Currently there is no bypass route. However WTA volunteer Backcountry Response Teams are scheduled to restore this section in 2010. You’ll traverse more lava on the 4.75 miles to the Ape Canyon Trail, and finally have 4 miles of relatively smooth trail across the Plains of Abraham, then up Windy Pass and back to the intersection of the Windy Trail (#216). From there you’re on familiar terrain following the Truman Trail (#207) back to Windy Pass.
Driving Directions:
Take FR 25 just outside of Randle, take FR 99 16 miles to its end at Windy Point. Walk the gated service road signed “Truman Trail No. 207” toward Mount St. Helens for two miles until you descend into a dry arroyo. From here, take the Windy trail #216E until you reach the Loowit at about 4,500 feet. Recent Trip Reports
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Day hike
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Wildflowers blooming
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Folks, this is the time to get out on Mt. St. Helens. We hiked from the Windy Ridge parking lot out ...
Folks, this is the time to get out on Mt. St. Helens. We hiked from the Windy Ridge parking lot out the road(flowers and nice views) to the Abraham trail(216D). The ridge walk has beautiful flowers and amazing views. At the Plains of Abraham, we headed west on the Loowit Trail 216 over Windy Pass. The trail on both sides of the Pass is a bit sketchy. Once you get down into the plains below, there is the most amazing flower display! Go now! Don't wait! We circled back on trail 216E, but a side trip to Loowit Falls would take you through the heart of the flower display. Oh, and no bugs.
Day hike
Features:
Wildflowers blooming
Issues:
Snow on trail | Bugs
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Mosquitoes were most fierce at the Red Rock Pass trailhead; snow was deepest at Upper Butte Camp (th...
Mosquitoes were most fierce at the Red Rock Pass trailhead; snow was deepest at Upper Butte Camp (the basin behind Butte Camp Dome and below the Loowit Trail). In between, we enjoyed a great hike up this interesting trail that traverses a variety of ecosystems from lava flows to oldgrowth forest, young post-eruption forest to alpine slopes.
Along the way, I spotted a natural arch near the trail. At Butte Camp itself, the traditional climbers' bivouac prior to 1980, snow covered much of the ground. The stream was running full and strong. We climbed the switchbacks through oldgrowth noble fir-mountain hemlock forest to a clifftop view back towards Red Rock Pass and Mount Hood on the southern horizon. Then we found the trail through a young lodgepole pine forest totally buried by snow. I pulled up the map on my GPS and we were able to navigate across the flat to the melted-out ridge where we regained the trail up to the junction with the Loowit Trail and our lunch/turnaroud spot. Amazingly, much of the red heather already and bloomed and gone to seed! Other blooming flowers included alpine buckwheat, partridgefoot, strawberry and paintbrush. Much of the area still was covered in snow. Marine air from the west kept clouds swirling over the summit of the volcano but we had sun on us most of the time. We met two women and a dog coming along the Loowit Trail from the west. They were the only other hikers we encountered that day. Day hike
Features:
Wildflowers blooming
Issues:
Blowdowns
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Despite a weather forecast for 30% chance of rain showers and a cloudy day, I decided to hike the Ap...
Despite a weather forecast for 30% chance of rain showers and a cloudy day, I decided to hike the Ape Canyon Trail to the Loowit Trail and onward to the Plains of Abraham on the east side of Mount St. Helens.
What an excellent decision! We were in a clearing trend with the clouds melting away as we hiked upward towards the mountain. This is one of my favorite hikes around Mount St. Helens. The trail starts in an old (40-50 years ago) clearcut, now regrowing, and goes through it for about 1.2 miles. The trail then enters oldgrowth forest with lots of big Douglas-firs and begins serious climbing up the ridge through well-engineered switchbacks. At about 4 miles, the trail emerges from the forest as it reaches Ape Canyon. A lot of hikers turn around here, but more wonders still await so I always continue on. The Ape Canyon Trail junctions with the Loowit Trail at 4.5 miles. We turn north and continue another mile to the Plains of Abraham and our favorite lunch site at a viewpoint. As we walked beneath the slope of Pumice Butte, I pointed out a lot of mountain goat fur snagged in the slide alders beside the trail. Goats must be nearby. Sure enough, we soon spotted the mountain goats themselves: a nanny with a kid and two other adults. Although I have heard reports for years, this was the first time I have seen mountain goats on Mount St. Helens myself. The goats moved off but focused on the main business of eating. Obviously, they have seen a lot of hikers and were not very concerned. The cloud layer obscured most of Mount Adams to the east, and we could not see the Goat Rocks, Mount Rainier or Mount Hood due to the heavy marine layer, but directly to our west, Mount St. Helens was totally clear. The diversity of habitats on this hiking route produced a high list of wildflower species in bloom. Over the total 11 mile hike, I counted 57 species blooming: Achillea millifolium Yarrow Achlys triphylla Vanilla leaf Actaea rubra Baneberry Agoseris aurantiaca Orange agoseris Anaphalis margaritacea Pearly everlasting Arctostaphylos nevadensis Pinemat manzanita Arenaria macrophylla Big-leaf sandwort Arnica cordifolia Heart-leaf arnica Aruncus sylvester Goatsbeard Castilleja miniata Scarlet paintbrush Chimaphila umbellata Pipsissewa Claytonia siberica Siberian miner's lettuce Clintonia uniflora Queen's cup Corallorrhiza maculate Spotted coralroot Corallorrhiza mertensiana Merten’s coralroot Cornus canadensis Bunchberry Dicentra formosa Bleeding heart Disporum hookeri Hooker’s fairybell Eriogonum pyrolifolium Alpine buckwheat Eriophyllum lanatum Oregon sunshine Fragaria virginiana Woods strawberry Hieracium albiflorum White-flowered hawkweed Hydrophyllum fendleri Fendler's waterleaf Leucanthemum vulgare* Oxeye daisy Lilium columbianum Tiger lily Listera caurina Northwestern twayblade Lomatium martindalei Martindale’s desert parsley Luetkea pectinata Partridge foot Lupinus latifolius Broad-leaf lupine Lupinus lepidus var. lobbii Dwarf lupine Maianthemum dilatatum False lily-of-the-valley Maianthemum racemosa False Solomon's seal Maianthemum stellata Star-flowered Solomon's seal Nothochelone nemerosa Woodland beard-tongue Penstemon cardwellii Cardwell's penstemon Penstemon rupicola Cliff penstemon Penstemon serrulatus Cascade penstemon Phlox diffusa Spreading phlox Phyllodoce empetriformis Red mountain heather Polygonum newberryi Newberry's knotweed Pyrola picta White-veined pyrola Rosa nutkana Nootka rose Rubus lasiococcus Dwarf bramble Rubus parviflorus Thimbleberry Rubus spectabilus Salmonberry Sambucus racemosa Red elderberry Saxifraga ferruginea Rusty saxifrage Sedum oreganum Oregon stonecrop Sorbus scopulina Cascade mountain-ash Spraguea umbellata Pussypaws Taraxacum officinale* Dandelion Tellima grandiflora Fringecup Tiarella trifoliata Foamflower Trillium ovatum White trillium Valeriana sitchensis Sitka valerian Vancouveria hexandra Inside-out-flower Viola glabella Stream violet *non-native There were a few blowdowns across the trail and two snowbanks, but they were easily negotiated. The snow will be gone soon. Another excellent day on the trail. Day hike
Features:
Fall foliage
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The Ape Canyon Trail on the southeast side of Mount St. Helens is among my favorite annual hikes.
...
The Ape Canyon Trail on the southeast side of Mount St. Helens is among my favorite annual hikes.
This trail had to be completely rebuilt following the 1980 eruption since the original trail was wiped out by the Muddy River lahar. The well-graded trail follows a forested ridge up to the southeast shoulder of the volcano. The first 1.4 miles of the trail go through a 1968 clearcut. Then the trail enters an impressive forest of old-growth Douglas-fir and climbs the ridge in a series of switchbacks. Although the guidebooks give the elevation gain on this hike as 1,300 feet, it actually is around 2,000 feet due to several 200-foot descents as the trail drops to cross saddles on the ridge. (Not only to you have to regain that elevation on the way in, you have to climb back up those descents on the way out.) At about 4 miles, the trail reaches the slot-like gash of Ape Canyon. Prior to 1980, Ape Canyon was a narrow chasm. Lahar-like flooding through the canyon has eroded and widened it. Ape Canyon got its name in 1924 when some miners below the canyon reported that ape-like creatures had thrown rocks at their cabin from the cliffs above. When they told their story to the Forest Service ranger at Spirit Lake, he reportedly said, "Oh, that's just those Mount St. Helens apes." What the miners didn't know was that the ranger always called young boys "apes." The ranger was referring to the kids at the summer camps around Spirit Lake, but the Sasquatch tale was born instead. In 1985, an old-timer confessed that he and another boy were responsible for the prank. We always go beyond the junction with the Loowit Trail, turning north for .8 mile to a great lunch spot on the Plains of Abraham. It is just across the creek on a rock cliff with 360 degree views. Today was the last warm day of fall, with a significant storm in the forecast. We experienced the weather change from a sunny morning to heavy clouds and strong wind as we hiked out. We could feel the moisture coming with the storm front. In about 4 days, this area will receive its first winter snow pack.
Ape Canyon, Loowit
— Sep 10, 2010
— rfschreiner
Multi-night backpack
Features:
Fall foliage | Ripe berries
Issues:
Blowdowns | Overgrown
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We began on the Ape Canyon trail. This unassuming trail head leads to quite a breathtaking view of t...
We began on the Ape Canyon trail. This unassuming trail head leads to quite a breathtaking view of the Muddy River drainage. This hike was very pleasant and not too steep. It was an extremely comfortable climb leading to my ultimate goal, The Loowit Trail. Ape Canyon trail is well maintained and heavily used. I encountered hunters, bikers, runners, and dogs. Be careful on this trail, you have a good chance of coming upon user traffic. The hike continues through some beautiful stands of forest and back out to clear views of St. Helen's in all her glory. The only issue with Ape Canyon trail was that the Vine Maple hung low, heavy with rain. Also, there was one big blow down about halfway up (careful on a bike!). Though the map says five miles to The Loowit junction, we got there much quicker than anticipated.
Once we got to the junction we headed south and you should too if you are a hiker or backpacker. The bikers and runners all went North towards The Plains of Abraham, leaving the Southbound Loowit clear and comfy for backpackers and hikers. The trail has recently been worked on and is easy to follow and tread upon. The drainages present some difficulty as they are steep and narrow. It may be a challenge for some, but if you made it that far, chances are it will be a cake walk for you. Be sure to have a camera and clear memory card, it is a unique world up there. I came away with some good shots of Marmots, Pikas, and even Mountain Goats. Lastly, I have never seen so many huckleberries before in my life and I live in Trout Lake! If you get up there soon you can enjoy the bounty, there is plenty. Happy hiking! |
![]() Wildflowers on the Plain of Abraham. Photo by Scott (tall guy).
2010, 2011, 2012
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