Sixty years ago I climbed Mt. Olympus with the Seattle Mountaineers. I was 19 at the time. This July I returned to the mountain with four friends to try the summit again. We left Seattle on July 11 and were on the Hoh River Trail by 2pm. In 90 degree temperature. We hiked five miles to Five Mile Island where camp was made for the night. The next morning was cooler and our group headed for Elk Lake some ten miles distant. The trail was in good shape with only one thigh deep ford.

LIttle elevation is gained in the first 12 miles from the trail head, but upon reaching the high bridge the trail starts up in earnest with no respite. Elk Lake was reached in late afternoon, and it was early to bed as we were all bushed. The next morning our hike continued to Glacier Meadows some 2.5 miles and 1700 feet in elevation gain. Near the Meadows, the trail crosses a slide area where there is little tread left. It was a dicey crossing with each step being measured. We rested most of the day in preparation for the summit assault and were up a 3:30 the next mroning. We left camp at 4:30 and were on the lateral moraine by 5:30. Dropping down from the moraine onto the relatively flat Blue Glacier, we crossed it with ease. It was at this point that the climb starts in earnest. The snow was in good shape for kicking steps, but where possible we chose to scramble up rock that was free of snow. The snow dome was reached by late morning where two of our party chose not to go on. They would remain at the research building until we returned from the summit. (The research building is nothing more that a big prefab box.)

Just ahead of our party was a well equipped group of five climbers. They had helmets, harnesses, carabiners and other assorted climbing gear. We, on the other hand, had only ice axes. Following their footsteps, we skirted a massive bergschrund and proceeded around to the backside of the mountain and up some very steep slpes to the middle or false summit. This summit is slightly lower than the real summit. It was here we chose to end our climb, as going on without a rope was not prudent. After the requisite photos and a bit of lunch, we headed down reaching camp after more than 12 hours on the mountain. The next day we hiked 12 miles to Five Mile Island and the following day reach the car by noon. In six days we had hiked more than 40 miles and climbed over 7000 feet.

Jim, my two brothers and I did an ascent of Mt. Olympus the weekend of July 25 - 28. We drove over Friday, hiked in to 13.3-mile camp just beyond the High Hoh bridge for the first night. We decided to split up the approach into two days. Day two we established a base camp at Glacier Meadows at just over 18 miles. The trail is nearly flat to abut a mile before the High Hoh bridge, after which it begins to climb to Glacier Meadows. There is a section of trail beyond the bridge that crosses a steep scree slope with a narrow boot path. It gave us pause, looking down hundreds of feet of hard-packed dirt and loose rock. Glacier Meadows camp is nice - they even have a boulder that you can practice using your prussiks. We spent a little time on the boulder.

Day three - summit day. We couldn't have asked for better weather! Bluebird, all day! Left camp at 5:00, later than we wanted because the darned alarm didn't go off! Worked our way up the Blue, made an end run around some rock buttresses, and topped out on the snow dome. It was all in good condition thus far, a few crevasses opening up, we had to leap over two. Started to see other people on the route - but with the weather forecast, we didn't think we'd have the mountain to ourselves anyway. We chose to go the Crystal Pass approach to the summit block. The steepest snow was about 40 to 45 degrees, and there was an excellent runout. It made for fun glissading on the way down.

We chose to ascend a route on the north face of the West Peak. The books and other trip reports mention a class 4 scramble, but what we saw didn't look like class 4. There was another party ahead of us, but in the true spirit of alpinism and cooperation, we joined forces and shared ropes, and all ten of us summited (not all at once, of course!). We agreed that the rock was probably lower 5th class, like 5.4-ish on fairly sound rock. The other party's leader started up on their rope, a second person trailed our rope and then they fixed them at the summit. The rest of us ascended the fixed rope using prussiks to self-belay. It was a scene reminiscent of the Hillary Step! I would recommend if there are more than three in the party, take a second rope so you don't have to belay halfway, unless you are comfortable simul-climbing fifth class rock. There is a rappel rock at the summit with several slings, a few of them look new. It is nearly a full 165-foot rappel from the summit to the snow. A bergschrund is developing, with a hefty step to get to the rock. It may be difficult to access the rock as time goes on and this heat continues. Moreover, there is a snowbridge on the Crystal Pass approach that won't last much longer. It was thin when we crossed it, and melting fast. But there is probably another way around it, just more convoluted.

We summited at 1:00 that afternoon. After a short time on top taking photos, we rappelled down to the snow for an enjoyable glissade. We got back to base camp at around 6:00, then packed up and moved camp down the trail to attempt to take some of the sting out of the hike out the next day.

We moved camp to a nice site at Martin Creek, at mile 15. Our tired, hungry bodies didn't want to go any further that night. Monday, our feet felt no better, and our packs seemed to have gained weight! The hike out was grueling, and our feet ached! We took occasional breaks, but each time we stopped, our feet would hurt worse! We had 15 miles to hike out to the trailhead and clean cotton. Going slower only made it worse. About mile 12, I decided to just kick it in, ratchet up the pace to about 3 miles per hour (from the steady 2 we had been keeping), and I stopped for nobody! Not even the group of very large men in dark glasses wearing brand spankin' new backpacking gear! I was tired of getting no respect, nobody yielding the trail even though I had the law of gross tonnage behind me (large pack, fast pace, and good forward momentum), but I must have had this crazy, wounded bear kind of look, cause these guys parted like the Red Sea! Only later did I find out that Laura Bush was visiting the park that day, and it was her entourage that we passed, she was on the side of the trail with a park naturalist (my brother noticed her, but he lives in DC) and there I was, all 5'4"" of me forcing the secret service off the trail! But I hurt too badly to stop! I mean, everyone knows that you don't mess with a wounded bear! Needless to say, we were focused. My two brothers were well ahead of Jim and me, and it wasn't until we were back to the parking lot that we realized what was going on in the rain forest.

Footwear notes: two of the group did the approach in trail running shoes. Aching feet, but not as badly as the two in hiking boots. I wore hiking boots in and used plastic boots on the climb. The shoe change was great! My feet felt great during the climb. They started aching again on the way out. I was wondering if it is just that the hiking boot isn't designed to support that kind of impact (flat trail, heavy heel strike, heavy pack). Yes, I realize that I could have taken lighter gear, packed lighter, but I think I did well to keep my pack to under 40 pounds for a four-day trip with climbing gear. My brothers' feet still hurt, but not until the hike out. The running shoes seemed to be the footwear of choice among our small group. I loved the plastic boots on the climb. I took off the plastic shell for the rock pitch (climbed in the inner boot - I have Lowa Denali's).

Truly a magic climb - one to be savored. We only wished we had more time to enjoy the trip out, too, and not beat out the last 15 miles, but we were ready for real food, cotton clothes, and a hot shower.

I left Friday after work and hit heavy traffic, then a looonnggg wait for the ferry to Kingston. This put me way behind the rest of the gang, who had left 12 hours earlier. By the time I got to the trailhead, it was 10pm and time for a long nap.

So I got up early, downed a large bottle of ketchup and headlamped up the trail, missing all the wonderful rainforest in the dark. 45 minutes later it was light enough to see the enormous trees along this route. Somewhere in this time I heard numerous crackling of branches in the forest, and then hooved animals bounded off in fright. I guess I should use better deodorant or wear a bag over my head.

By 7:15 I was at the Olympic Guard Station where the gang was camped. But they were nowhere to be found. Hoping they had risen early, I continued up the trail. So far the trail is nearly flat, having risen only 500' in 9 miles -- the flattest, longest trail I've hiked. Within 90 minutes I caught the mangy group as they slogged uphill. No longer as level, we somehow stumbled our way to Glacier Meadows, where we were mercilessly attacked by billions of flies. This is the farthest I've hiked before noon, or before lunch and I was hungry and not nearly as energetic as those dumb flies (easy to swat). The flies went to bed at night, fortunately.

After checking out the climbing route that afternoon, we retired early. At 3am we started off up the moraine trail, then descended to the Blue Glacier (aptly named). Our route went alongside the edge of the glacier to where the blue stops and the white starts. In the early light we could see without headlamps, but didn't notice the glacier was actually a vicious swamp that even gaters can't tolerate. Water was flowing everywhere in the slush. Yuck. But after 15 minutes of crossing water-filled crevasses we were on solid ice and snow. The route up to the Snow Dome has some crevasses, but none were a problem. The route through Crystal Pass is still ""open"" with plenty of crevasses to negotiate. After the class 4 climb to the top we were treated to some great views. Too bad the ocean was covered in fog. But I could see Mt Fuji to the west and Mont Blanc to the east. The register box is from the Mazamas dated 1939.

One double-rope rappel got us off the summit block. We crossed the Blue quite a bit lower, to avoid the slush. However, this flat portion of the glacier has lots of flowing water. It felt like crossing a broken-ice frozen lake, although the ice was very solid. Our rope leader fell through one crevasse up to her armpits, but we managed to pull her out. Luckily it wasn't one of the water-filled cracks.

We packed up our gear and painfully walked our sore and tired feet back to Olympic Guard Station. Here, the mosquito problem was very manageable. After well-needed rest we walked back out the last flat 9.1 miles. On my way out I saw a deer and fawn at camp. This time I really enjoyed the rain forest splendor. There is one particularly spectacular set of huge cedars, grouped close together. It was a welcome sight to see lots of dayhikers with video cameras, meaning we were close to the end. Oh, my feet! But what a trip.

The Hoh River trail is in excellent condition and has reaped the rewards of outstanding work by the recent trail crew. Much work has been spent in re-routing a section of trail, as well as raising a long section of it between 5 Mile Island and Olympic Guard Station. Just before Glacier Meadows the trail traverses some avalanche gullies and is very thin. In fact, it is more a goat trail and caution must be taken. The original trail has slid out. Also there is sign at the trailhead warning of a recent cougar kill at the 14.3 mile mark, a cow elk who's carcass has been hid only 25' off the trail. Warning: it is no longer fresh! You don't have to look for the landmarks posted as your nose will pick up on it about 1/4 mile before you get there! There is also the usual bear hanging around Glacier Meadows, very accustomed to people.

Snow begins immediately above Glacier Meadows and lasts all the way to the moraine, though it is easily travelled.

Our first night was spent at Elk Lake, 15.5 miles in. It is a long haul with 65 lb. packs (8 lbs. of camera gear, ~18 lbs. of climbing gear). We were drizzled on all night long and hoped we could climb out of the clouds the next day. We did.

We spent our second night bivied near the base of Panic Peak on Snow Dome. As always, the views were fantastic as the evening sun set! Many photo opps. The direct routes up Mt. Olympus are gone, as the bergschrund stretches completely across the glacier. This includes the Fourth of July route. Crystal Pass is the only route going, which is fine because it is the most scenic anyway! Conditions on the glacier were excellent, with only a few crevasses open on Snow Dome, and safe snow bridges below Crystal Pass. There are currently no moats in the snow bowl below the summit block, so the transition from snow to rock is trouble-free.

After summiting on our third day, we collected our gear and beat it down to Olympic Guard Station, making for almost a 13 hour day. We were tired, needless to say. This long day allowed us to to arrive back at the car before noon on the fourth day, so it was considered to be worth it (except by our feet!).

Now is the perfect time for an ascent of Mt. Olympus, 48 miles round trip to the summit and a true test for any soul's poor feet! Mine should be back to operational mode within a few days...

Don Geyer