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Shi Shi Beach and Point of the Arches

Last modified Nov 02, 2009 01:29 PM
Contributors: Susan Elderkin
Inge Johnnson's photo of Point of Arches took 2nd prize in WTA's Northwest Expsoure Photo Contest in 2008.

Revered through the ages, Shi Shi Beach has its share of disciples, from First Peoples to first-time visitors, naturalists, bird-watchers, hard-core hikers, beach bums, conservationists, politicians, and just plain ordinary folk. And Northwest hikers have consistently rated Shi Shi as one of the region's most beautiful beaches. Though this natural gem's history has had a few blemishes, including access issues, thankfully many of those problems have been washed out to sea.

One of the last additions to Olympic National Park, Shi Shi Beach's inclusion in 1976 was met with a fair amount of resistance. Abutting landowners had to be convinced to allow public access. Land developers had to be discouraged from turning the area into an enclave of second homes. And once the Park Service acquired title, they had to remove counterculture squatters and tidy up the mess left behind. Even then the fight to secure Shi Shi for the public wasn't over; in the late 1990s the trail was closed in a land-access dispute. But after much wrangling and negotiating, the Park Service and landowners broke the impasse. The Makahs developed a new trailhead and built a new trail to the beach, and it's top-notch in both design and standards.

The first mile winds through pockets of mature Sitka spruce, traversing rain-saturated bogs via cedar-planked boardwalks and bridges. The new trail then intersects part of the old trail, where 0.5 mile of somewhat muddy terrain must still be negotiated. Eventually this part of the trail will be rehabilitated. At 1.75 miles you'll reach the national park boundary. Now, the only thing separating you from the spectacular beach is a steep trail down a 150-foot bluff.

Brace your knees and emerge at the northern end of the 2-mile sandy beach. Taste the salty air. Feel the pounding surf at your feet. Embrace the raw beauty of this wilderness beach and immediately forget about the civilized world. Dunes and bluffs hem the sandy shoreline. Giant logs dance in the thundering breakers. Eagles belt out high-pitched welcomes from overhanging snags.

In 1.3 miles from the bluff descent you'll come to Petroleum Creek. Cross it and continue. Point of the Arches, a mile-long cavalcade of sea stacks and natural arches, comes into better view. It's 1 mile farther to reach them. During a low tide, there's no better place on the Olympic Coast for admiring these wind- and water-sculpted landforms. The only thing grander than Shi Shi's natural beauty is its resilience in the face of forces that would have prohibited us from enjoying and admiring this national treasure.

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Recent Trip Reports

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There are 27 trip reports for this hike. See all trip reports for this hike.
Point of Arches, Shi Shi Beach, Makah Nation — Jul 10, 1999 — Mexica Angel
Day hike
Issues: Blowdowns | Mudholes
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The road to Neah Bay is long, but the crowds do thin as the distance grows greater. Expect around...

The road to Neah Bay is long, but the crowds do thin as the distance grows greater. Expect around four hours to the trailhead from Seattle. The road gets rougher and slower as it nears the end. We arrived at around 9:30AM, and tried to park at the last house from the trailhead. No one answered the door, so we went down to the next house and walked even further. The normal policy is just to drive right up on their lawn, and if they're not there, find an envelope and pay the proper amount. The trail starts through a clear cut along an old forest road, and quickly turns very muddy. Wear your lawn mowing shoes. At one point my husband (burdened by a heavy pack) fell face first in mud. At about two miles, we filled out a permit, entered the park, and descended steeply to the beach. Campsites are numerous along the beach and just above it, most dense around petroluem creek (the only source of water, bring a stove or filter). Wildlife included numerous sea lions, a flirtatious fawn on the beach, and a whale (presumably grey) that sent a huge flock of seagulls out of the water. Some tribal fisherman drove us back to our car from the trailhead, and on the way out, we stopped at the Makah museum, where we found out that the women who let us park in her yard, Isabelle Ides, is a tribal elder who turns 99 in November. Nice trip!

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Shi Shi Beach — Jul 26, 1998 — troy
Day hike
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A hike to the beach is a perfect antidote for too much time in the mountains. Getting to the...

A hike to the beach is a
perfect antidote for too much time in the mountains. Getting to the Shi Shi trailhead can be troublesome if you do not know the way- we had to ask for directions from Neah Bay three times. A woman up the road from the trailhead will let you park in her yard for a fee, although rumor has it that vandalism has been decreasing. The open stretch of the trail has sun, the covered stretch has huge mud pits. We had one shoe sucked right off in the sandy black goo. The beach was fogged over and had quite an ethereal other-world feel as campers moved in an out of visibility. It was fairly crowded, but the surf, fog and space nearly made us feel alone. The fog departed at night for amazing phosphoresence show in the rip-tide and shooting stars above. The next morning we trekked the low tide to the now visible Point of Arches before heading up and out into the heat.

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Location
Olympics -- Coast
Olympic National Park; Makah Nation
4.00 out of 5
Based on 20 votes
Featured In...

Day Hiking: Olympic Peninsula
by Craig Romano

To buy the full book, including maps, elevation profiles, photos, and more, visit:

A portion of all book sales from the links above benefits WTA and helps protect and maintain our trails.

Information about this hike provided in partnership with Mountaineers Books. Copyright © Craig Romano/The Mountaineers Books

Roundtrip 8.0 miles
Elevation Gain 200 ft
Highest Point 200 ft
Features
Coast
Rivers
Established campsites
Guidebooks & Maps
Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula (Romano - Mountaineers Books)
Green Trails Cape Flattery No. 98S
Custom Correct North Olympic Coast

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Driving Directions
(48.2937, -124.6651) Open in new window
Red Marker Shi Shi Beach and Point of the Arches
48.2937166667 -124.665083333

From Port Angeles follow US 101 west for 5 miles to the junction with State Route 112. Turn right (west) on SR 112, continuing for 64 miles to the community of Neah Bay. (Alternatively, take US 101 to Sappho and drive SR 113 north to SR 112 and then on to Neah Bay. This way is longer, but not as curvy.) Just past the Makah Tribal Museum is Washburn's, where you can purchase the required recreation pass. Continue west on Bayview Avenue for 1 mile, following signs for "Cape Flattery and Beaches."Turn left on Fort Street, and in 0.1 mile turn right on 3rd Street. In another 0.1 mile turn left on Cape Flattery Road. Follow this road 2.5 miles to a junction just before the tribal center. Turn left onto Hobuck Road and-staying on the main paved road, following signs for the fish hatchery-drive 4.3 miles to the trailhead, located on your right. Privy available.

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