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Shi Shi Beach and Point of the Arches

Last modified Nov 02, 2009 01:29 PM
Contributors: Susan Elderkin
Inge Johnnson's photo of Point of Arches took 2nd prize in WTA's Northwest Expsoure Photo Contest in 2008.

Revered through the ages, Shi Shi Beach has its share of disciples, from First Peoples to first-time visitors, naturalists, bird-watchers, hard-core hikers, beach bums, conservationists, politicians, and just plain ordinary folk. And Northwest hikers have consistently rated Shi Shi as one of the region's most beautiful beaches. Though this natural gem's history has had a few blemishes, including access issues, thankfully many of those problems have been washed out to sea.

One of the last additions to Olympic National Park, Shi Shi Beach's inclusion in 1976 was met with a fair amount of resistance. Abutting landowners had to be convinced to allow public access. Land developers had to be discouraged from turning the area into an enclave of second homes. And once the Park Service acquired title, they had to remove counterculture squatters and tidy up the mess left behind. Even then the fight to secure Shi Shi for the public wasn't over; in the late 1990s the trail was closed in a land-access dispute. But after much wrangling and negotiating, the Park Service and landowners broke the impasse. The Makahs developed a new trailhead and built a new trail to the beach, and it's top-notch in both design and standards.

The first mile winds through pockets of mature Sitka spruce, traversing rain-saturated bogs via cedar-planked boardwalks and bridges. The new trail then intersects part of the old trail, where 0.5 mile of somewhat muddy terrain must still be negotiated. Eventually this part of the trail will be rehabilitated. At 1.75 miles you'll reach the national park boundary. Now, the only thing separating you from the spectacular beach is a steep trail down a 150-foot bluff.

Brace your knees and emerge at the northern end of the 2-mile sandy beach. Taste the salty air. Feel the pounding surf at your feet. Embrace the raw beauty of this wilderness beach and immediately forget about the civilized world. Dunes and bluffs hem the sandy shoreline. Giant logs dance in the thundering breakers. Eagles belt out high-pitched welcomes from overhanging snags.

In 1.3 miles from the bluff descent you'll come to Petroleum Creek. Cross it and continue. Point of the Arches, a mile-long cavalcade of sea stacks and natural arches, comes into better view. It's 1 mile farther to reach them. During a low tide, there's no better place on the Olympic Coast for admiring these wind- and water-sculpted landforms. The only thing grander than Shi Shi's natural beauty is its resilience in the face of forces that would have prohibited us from enjoying and admiring this national treasure.

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Recent Trip Reports

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There are 27 trip reports for this hike. See all trip reports for this hike.
North Shi Shi Beach Access - Point of Arches, Cape Flattery — May 22, 2009 — Cheetarzan
Day hike
Issues: Mudholes
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Memorial day weekend can be iffy weather-wise. And Friday morning in Forks didn't look very promising. Heavy clouds showed little promise of...
Memorial day weekend can be iffy weather-wise.
And Friday morning in Forks didn't look very promising.
Heavy clouds showed little promise of dispersing during the morning hours.
We escaped the clouds by moving north.
Sunny and clear by the time we stopped in Neah Bay to get our Makah Permit.
(Get it at the mini-mart, don't wait for the tribal center)
The Flattery trail was in good shape and a crew was making it even better.
("Maybe we'll get to the Shi Shi trail next year")
A few clouds at the cape but gorgeous.

The second half of the Shi Shi trail has many mudholes and the trail is getting wider as hikers attempt to keep their footwear dry. The hike down the bluff to the beach is steep and dicey. It can hardly be called a trail.
(I wonder how the guy with the full pack, surfboard and half-rack got down.)
Once we safely got to the beach it was wonderful.
But where were all those backpackers we passed on the way out going to camp?
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North Shi Shi Beach Access - Point of Arches — Apr 25, 2009 — Eric Jain
Overnight
Issues: Mudholes
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Headed to Shi Shi Beach this weekend expecting not so great weather, and was surprised by almost perfect weather. Stopped...
Headed to Shi Shi Beach this weekend expecting not so great weather, and was surprised by almost perfect weather. Stopped at the visitor center in Port Angeles on the way to get a camping permit ($9) and a bear cannister ($3 donation). Stopped in Neah Bay at the museum to get a "recreation pass" ($10, good for one year) that appears to be required as well.

The parking lot at the trailhead is for day use only. Ended up leaving the car about a mile away at "Donna's" parking lot ($10). The owners of nearer parking lots were nowhere to be found, and some of the places looked a bit dubious. Fortunately the guy at that parking lot offered to drop us off at the trailhead.

The first half of the trail is immaculate and consists of lots of boardwalk. Then things get a bit muddy. Fortunately most of the mud was either dried out or bypassable. After rain or heavy use things might look different... In any case the trail is well marked.

Down at the beach there were three other parties camping, well spaced out. Didn't have trouble finding a good spot, but was glad to have a tide table handy and to be able to compare the evidence of the last high tide with the next expected high tide. There was plenty of firewood lying around, and no garbage (perhaps thanks to the recent coast clean-up day?). Should have brought binoculars to watch the sea otters, and to look out for whales...

The next morning we walked along the beach to Point of Arches and back. The tide was low at -1 so there were plenty of tide pools to peek into, and walking was easy. The only obstacle was a small stream, which could be crossed without getting wet feet on the lower part of the beach.

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North Shi Shi Beach Access - Point of Arches — Apr 11, 2009 — Raghu
Day hike
Issues: Mudholes | Water on trail
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Seeing the Sea stacks was something we wanted to do on a hike for a long time. We decided that...
Seeing the Sea stacks was something we wanted to do on a hike for a long time. We decided that whatever be the weather, we would go to the Shi-Shi beach in the Makah nation.

The drive from Seattle is around 4.5 hrs, and with breaks for rest, it can be around 5.5 hrs. We reached the trailhead around 1:30 PM. The drive on SR 112 west is full of curves, but beautiful when you have the ocean around.

We went on a rainy day. It rains most of the days near the Shi-Shi beach, and the day we went was no different. The views of the ocean are filled with mist when it rains. It must be really good when sunny or even cloudy.

The trail head is easy to find from the town of Neah Bay. The trail consists of 2 distinct stretches, one from trail head to beach, and the other along the beach. Both are almost 2 miles each, so the total one way distance is around 4 miles. The first stretch from trailhead to beach was full of mudholes.It was extremely muddy, soggy, wet, some pits had lots of water, and most of our shoes got easily wet. In fact, its a very difficult hike for the first 2 miles just because of the extent of mud. Lot of perseverence is a must to cross the first 2 miles. In extremely bad portions of the trail, look out for some side trails [near the side of the main trail] and try to use that whenever you can. The trail is very very slippery and lot of caution is needed.

The hike is fairly flat but its strenuous only because of the muddy trails. Once down to the beach, its beautiful. The beach was beautiful even in the rain, and so it must be awesome on a sunny day. We could see the sea stacks and point of arches at some distance from the first entry point on the beach. The sea stacks were not clearly visible because of the mist formed by the rain. Still it looked good.

We had to hike for some 2 more miles to reach the Point of Arches where the view of the sea stack is great because you are very close to it. Hiking on the beach is a little bit tricky, because the beach is not a flat surface and it is some amount of strain on the ankles and legs to hike on such a soft surface. There are no trail markers once in the beach, and we just kept going left to a place full of sea stacks which we assumed would be the Point of Arches based on some of the pictures we had seen before.

We did not check the tide maps and stuff, but we were lucky enough to be able to reach Point of Arches easily. The view of the sea stacks was majestic, and we were left wondering how the view could have if there were no rain. On a sunny day, the sunset should be really awesome and even the views of the sea stack simply majestic. The ocean water wave crashing sound was simply great to hear and reminded us the power of nature and water. It was cold with the breeze and we were feeling colder because we had been wet, water entering our shoes, and continuing showers. But with so less people around, it was a nice place to enjoy solitude at this time of the year.

After spending some time at Point of Arches, we headed back. All the struggle against muddy trails continued, and we are quite happy to reach the parking lot by 6 PM. A drive of another 5 hours and we reached Seattle.

For those looking to visit this hike, my suggestions would be to check the forecast and go only if its sunny. The mud would probably be gone, and the sea stacks would be terrific. And if possible, make it a backpack. There are some nice places to camp in the beach away from the tides.

Bottomline: Its a must go hike just for the sea stacks but plan well for the forecast and go on a sunny day.
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North Shi Shi Beach Access - Point of Arches — Apr 07, 2009 — Hekele
Day hike
Issues: Mudholes
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The recent beautiful weather has helped to dry out the trail a bit. Mud was still prevalent, but the worst...
The recent beautiful weather has helped to dry out the trail a bit. Mud was still prevalent, but the worst sections could all be bypassed on the sides, or over wood placed across them. Be careful on the side trails - one or two of them lead to bigger mudholes than they bypass. I was told that the trail was 'pretty muddy' by several people, but it all seemed manageable with even slightly-waterproof shoes. I wouldn't hike it in running shoes, but any hiking boots would be fine. At least, until it rains again!
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North Shi Shi Beach Access - Point of Arches — Aug 20, 2008 — hikergirl
Overnight
Issues: Mudholes
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Finally planned the trip to Shi Shi Beach on the Olympic Coast. Unfortunately, the weather wasn't as good as we...
Finally planned the trip to Shi Shi Beach on the Olympic Coast. Unfortunately, the weather wasn't as good as we would have wanted it.

We decided that since we were driving from near Seattle we would stay in Forks the night before so that we were much closer to the trailhead. We stopped in Port Angeles for the National Park backpacking permit and a bear canister. We then drove to Forks and stayed the night.

Thursday morning we headed to Neah Bay from Forks. Once in Neah Bay stop at the Deli Mart for a reservation permit ($10 and good for the rest of the year.) We took Robuck Rd out to the trail. The trailhead is for day use only so you must use one of the two private property parking lots. The closer one was full so we had to park at "Donna's Parking." It was $10 for the night. We were fortunate enough to have a woman who was camping nearby pick us up and drop us off at the trailhead. The walk on the road would add an additional mile to mile and a half to the trip.

The trail itself is fine at first, lots of boardwalk. Then the mudholes come. There are several trails around the mud but it's almost impossible to avoid. The cliff down to the beach is a little steep but definitely manageable. Once on the beach, we walked about another half a mile down and decided to set up camp. We later learned that the toilet and fresh water source were about another mile or so down the beach. Weed did lots of walking to say the least.

The one thing we wanted to do is make it to Point of the Arches. Make sure you grab a tide book or get a chart from the Olympic ranger station. The tide pools are incredible at point of the arches. The weather was cloudy, rainy and no sunset!

This trip was a lot of work but in the end worth it. A clear evening would have made all the difference. Overall, good trip but a lot of steps and work to get there.
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Location
Olympics -- Coast
Olympic National Park; Makah Nation
4.00 out of 5
Based on 20 votes
Featured In...

Day Hiking: Olympic Peninsula
by Craig Romano

To buy the full book, including maps, elevation profiles, photos, and more, visit:

A portion of all book sales from the links above benefits WTA and helps protect and maintain our trails.

Information about this hike provided in partnership with Mountaineers Books. Copyright © Craig Romano/The Mountaineers Books

Roundtrip 8.0 miles
Elevation Gain 200 ft
Highest Point 200 ft
Features
Coast
Rivers
Established campsites
Guidebooks & Maps
Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula (Romano - Mountaineers Books)
Green Trails Cape Flattery No. 98S
Custom Correct North Olympic Coast

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Driving Directions
(48.2937, -124.6651) Open in new window
Red Marker Shi Shi Beach and Point of the Arches
48.2937166667 -124.665083333

From Port Angeles follow US 101 west for 5 miles to the junction with State Route 112. Turn right (west) on SR 112, continuing for 64 miles to the community of Neah Bay. (Alternatively, take US 101 to Sappho and drive SR 113 north to SR 112 and then on to Neah Bay. This way is longer, but not as curvy.) Just past the Makah Tribal Museum is Washburn's, where you can purchase the required recreation pass. Continue west on Bayview Avenue for 1 mile, following signs for "Cape Flattery and Beaches."Turn left on Fort Street, and in 0.1 mile turn right on 3rd Street. In another 0.1 mile turn left on Cape Flattery Road. Follow this road 2.5 miles to a junction just before the tribal center. Turn left onto Hobuck Road and-staying on the main paved road, following signs for the fish hatchery-drive 4.3 miles to the trailhead, located on your right. Privy available.

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