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Copyright © Craig Romano/The Mountaineers Books Shi Shi Beach and Point of the Arches
Revered through the ages, Shi Shi Beach has its share of disciples, from First Peoples to first-time visitors, naturalists, bird-watchers, hard-core hikers, beach bums, conservationists, politicians, and just plain ordinary folk. And Northwest hikers have consistently rated Shi Shi as one of the region's most beautiful beaches. Though this natural gem's history has had a few blemishes, including access issues, thankfully many of those problems have been washed out to sea.
One of the last additions to Olympic National Park, Shi Shi Beach's inclusion in 1976 was met with a fair amount of resistance. Abutting landowners had to be convinced to allow public access. Land developers had to be discouraged from turning the area into an enclave of second homes. And once the Park Service acquired title, they had to remove counterculture squatters and tidy up the mess left behind. Even then the fight to secure Shi Shi for the public wasn't over; in the late 1990s the trail was closed in a land-access dispute. But after much wrangling and negotiating, the Park Service and landowners broke the impasse. The Makahs developed a new trailhead and built a new trail to the beach, and it's top-notch in both design and standards. The first mile winds through pockets of mature Sitka spruce, traversing rain-saturated bogs via cedar-planked boardwalks and bridges. The new trail then intersects part of the old trail, where 0.5 mile of somewhat muddy terrain must still be negotiated. Eventually this part of the trail will be rehabilitated. At 1.75 miles you'll reach the national park boundary. Now, the only thing separating you from the spectacular beach is a steep trail down a 150-foot bluff. Brace your knees and emerge at the northern end of the 2-mile sandy beach. Taste the salty air. Feel the pounding surf at your feet. Embrace the raw beauty of this wilderness beach and immediately forget about the civilized world. Dunes and bluffs hem the sandy shoreline. Giant logs dance in the thundering breakers. Eagles belt out high-pitched welcomes from overhanging snags. In 1.3 miles from the bluff descent you'll come to Petroleum Creek. Cross it and continue. Point of the Arches, a mile-long cavalcade of sea stacks and natural arches, comes into better view. It's 1 mile farther to reach them. During a low tide, there's no better place on the Olympic Coast for admiring these wind- and water-sculpted landforms. The only thing grander than Shi Shi's natural beauty is its resilience in the face of forces that would have prohibited us from enjoying and admiring this national treasure.
Driving Directions:
From Port Angeles follow US 101 west for 5 miles to the junction with State Route 112. Turn right (west) on SR 112, continuing for 64 miles to the community of Neah Bay. (Alternatively, take US 101 to Sappho and drive SR 113 north to SR 112 and then on to Neah Bay. This way is longer, but not as curvy.) Just past the Makah Tribal Museum is Washburn's, where you can purchase the required recreation pass. Continue west on Bay View Avenue for a scant mile, to the end of the straight road, then begin following brown signs for "Cape Flattery". Turn left on Fort Street for one block, then right on 3rd Street (unmarked). In another block (0.1 mile), turn left on Cape Flattery Road. (The sign is partway down the road.) Follow this road 2.5 miles, then turn left over the bridge onto Hobuck Road. Staying on the main paved road, follow signs for the fish hatchery. Pay close attention to the speed limit, which fluctuates between 15, 25, and 35 mph. Drive to the parking lot at the trailhead (day use only), located on your right at about 5 miles. Recent Trip Reports
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Shi Shi Beach and Point of the Arches
— Jun 09, 2011
— walkingman
Overnight
Issues:
Mudholes | Water on trail
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I like to visit Shi Shi and the Arches every few years as it has always been a favorite of mine, plu...
I like to visit Shi Shi and the Arches every few years as it has always been a favorite of mine, plus it's always interesting to see how a trail or destination changes over time. The new trail over Makah land is very nice until it finally meets up with what used to be an old road (logging?) of the primitive kind. Nature is slowly reclaiming the road part--indeed, I suspect most will never suspect it was a road at one time. Still quite muddy in some spots, although my memory tells me it was worse in the past when it was wider and less brushy. Still, not a great hike if all you've got are porous tennis shoes! It's deceptively dry in the early "new" part of the trail, but wetter and muddier in the last third.
Although I went on two fairly gray days, the wildness and the majesty of the beach, the Arches and the mighty Pacific are indeed impressive and sublime. A great place to get away from civilization and mellow out a bit. A nice little campfire added to the relaxing effect. About 30 youngsters (8th graders I was told by one of their teachers) were just leaving as I got there, so much to my amazement, I had virtually the whole beach to myself! That's a first in probably at least a half a dozen visits! Talk about solitude! Didn't see another person until I was leaving the beach the next afternoon. Then another small party was hiking in to camp and a few were obviously day hikers. Saw a deer, many bald eagles, seals (including one dead one at the Arches)and other birds. No rodents or racoons spotted this trip and few bugs. At least it didn't rain the whole time which would've put a bit of a damper on the trip. It seemed like the beach was a bit cleaner too than in the past, with less human garbage than I've seen before. Perhaps a work detail recently? All in all, a great trip to a wonderful wilderness destination. Highly recommended! Day hike
Issues:
Clogged drainage | Mudholes | Water on trail
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The initial hike to the ocean was muddy and had some obstacles. However, the hike is worth it once y...
The initial hike to the ocean was muddy and had some obstacles. However, the hike is worth it once you get the the beach! Make sure to bring waterproof hiking boots and watch the tides. The beach is best at a low tide.
Cons: Trail is not well maintained, no overnight parking (unless you purchase from a private owner), and decaying seals along the beach. Pros: Low-key day hike.
Shi Shi Beach and Point of the Arches
— Apr 30, 2011
— Cascaders
Overnight
Issues:
Mudholes | Water on trail
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The trail to Shi Shi is muddy in a few sections as it has always been. Locals wear tall rubber fish...
The trail to Shi Shi is muddy in a few sections as it has always been. Locals wear tall rubber fishing boots which is about the only way to get to the beach with dry feet without extreme measures to avoid mud. That being said, this is an absolutely beautiful stretch of coastline. There is a small beach are just north over some rocks one the trail dumps you onto the beach. If it is empty it is a nice area to camp (stayed there a couple years ago). We camped near Petroleum Creek, just up off of the beach in one of the few sites up from the beach on a plot of land that has been used enought to look like a maintained campsite, even though it is certainly not. Some choose to bring the bear canister, although I'd recommend bringing 30-40 ft of string and hanging your food. The Point of the Arches is a must for exploring, especially if you time it at low tide.
If you are going in the early season, be sure the tides aren't going to be too high to beach camp. Tides got up to 8ft on our trip and there were still plenty of beach sections above high tide, but mid-summer when there are 100 tents out there, spots may be at a premium for staying dry if the tide chart shows really high tides. Note: Parking is expensive, at a local person's home 0.6 miles from the trailhead. 10 bucks a day is pretty steep, considering the Makah rec pass is another $10 (annual fee, multiple stores in town sell them). Also, the water you filter will be tinged (looks like tea almost). These are the tannins in the soil apparantly. Filter and drink, it tastes the same and won't make you sick. Overall, a must-visit, this is a classic spot even if it takes half of a day to get there.
Shi Shi Beach and Point of the Arches
— Apr 02, 2011
— Anita
Multi-night backpack
Issues:
Mudholes | Water on trail
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First trip out to Shi Shi and the long drive around the Olympics were definitely worth it. Breath ...
First trip out to Shi Shi and the long drive around the Olympics were definitely worth it. Breath taking! I brought my 10 yr old nephew on his first backpacking trip here. Perfect for kids.
Despite rain reports, skies remained clear for the first half of our three day trip. Only one other set of campers and a few day hikers. Brave the wet and enjoy no crowds! The short walk in is beautiful on its own with signs of spring on its way. However, be sure to bring the right shoes, mud and water puddles up to 8" deep are at times unavoidable. Your feet will get wet. There is a cliff at the end of trail that takes you down to the beach. This is the only challenge posed, though still mild, other than large mud puddles. Use caution here as the cliff is steep at points and very wet. You'll find campsites of varying sizes along shore. If you see a site with a massive bunch of buoys there is a funny open pit toilet with three short walls. I chose to dig my own holes but it's there. Creeks offer fresh water access. Take advantage of low tide to explore the Point of the Arches. Bring a camera and binoculars. The eagles are nesting and sea life abound in the tide pools with incredible views in every direction. There is a required use of bear canisters so be sure to leave room in pack or bring a strap for comfy carrying. Park at trail head for day use or park in houses close to trail head offered. You'll see signs and expect to pay around $10 per day. Houses are less than a mile from trail head, but it helps to drop off gear, then double back. Day hike
Issues:
Mudholes | Water on trail
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The boardwalks and bridges the first mile were icy and/or frosty and this slowed our pace. The next ...
The boardwalks and bridges the first mile were icy and/or frosty and this slowed our pace. The next half mile was very muddy. At 1.75 miles the ONP boundary is reached and you then descend 150 ft.to the beach. High tide was against us making a section of the beach not walkable. After walking the beach about .5 mile, we had lunch and then waited until the tide began going out allowing us to walk the remaining.8 mile to Petroleum Creek. There was a log crossing or a wade which was over our boots so because of approaching darkness, we made this our turn around point knowing we did not have time to explore the Point of the Arches Area. We envied the many backpackers who would be enjoying a beautiful sunset! We will return when the days are longer and the tides in our favor! The beautiful, sunny day, although cold, made for a very pleasant beach walk! On our return to the TH we saw a few blooming skunk cabbage--our first wildflower of 2011!
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 Inge Johnsson's photo of Point of Arches took 2nd prize in WTA's Northwest Expsoure Photo Contest in 2008.
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