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Shi Shi Beach and Point of the Arches

Last modified Nov 02, 2009 01:29 PM
Contributors: Susan Elderkin
Inge Johnnson's photo of Point of Arches took 2nd prize in WTA's Northwest Expsoure Photo Contest in 2008.

Revered through the ages, Shi Shi Beach has its share of disciples, from First Peoples to first-time visitors, naturalists, bird-watchers, hard-core hikers, beach bums, conservationists, politicians, and just plain ordinary folk. And Northwest hikers have consistently rated Shi Shi as one of the region's most beautiful beaches. Though this natural gem's history has had a few blemishes, including access issues, thankfully many of those problems have been washed out to sea.

One of the last additions to Olympic National Park, Shi Shi Beach's inclusion in 1976 was met with a fair amount of resistance. Abutting landowners had to be convinced to allow public access. Land developers had to be discouraged from turning the area into an enclave of second homes. And once the Park Service acquired title, they had to remove counterculture squatters and tidy up the mess left behind. Even then the fight to secure Shi Shi for the public wasn't over; in the late 1990s the trail was closed in a land-access dispute. But after much wrangling and negotiating, the Park Service and landowners broke the impasse. The Makahs developed a new trailhead and built a new trail to the beach, and it's top-notch in both design and standards.

The first mile winds through pockets of mature Sitka spruce, traversing rain-saturated bogs via cedar-planked boardwalks and bridges. The new trail then intersects part of the old trail, where 0.5 mile of somewhat muddy terrain must still be negotiated. Eventually this part of the trail will be rehabilitated. At 1.75 miles you'll reach the national park boundary. Now, the only thing separating you from the spectacular beach is a steep trail down a 150-foot bluff.

Brace your knees and emerge at the northern end of the 2-mile sandy beach. Taste the salty air. Feel the pounding surf at your feet. Embrace the raw beauty of this wilderness beach and immediately forget about the civilized world. Dunes and bluffs hem the sandy shoreline. Giant logs dance in the thundering breakers. Eagles belt out high-pitched welcomes from overhanging snags.

In 1.3 miles from the bluff descent you'll come to Petroleum Creek. Cross it and continue. Point of the Arches, a mile-long cavalcade of sea stacks and natural arches, comes into better view. It's 1 mile farther to reach them. During a low tide, there's no better place on the Olympic Coast for admiring these wind- and water-sculpted landforms. The only thing grander than Shi Shi's natural beauty is its resilience in the face of forces that would have prohibited us from enjoying and admiring this national treasure.

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Recent Trip Reports

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There are 27 trip reports for this hike. See all trip reports for this hike.
North Shi Shi Beach Access - Point of Arches — Aug 15, 2009 — greybeard
Day hike
Issues: Mudholes
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The trailhead has been moved in the last few years, different from that in (our) older editions of 100 hikes...
The trailhead has been moved in the last few years, different from that in (our) older editions of 100 hikes in the S. Cascades and Olympics. There is a free (once you pay the $10 annual recreation fee for being on the rez) parking lot and pit toilets at the new trailhead. There are several local residences up the road that will protect your car for a fee if you are backpacking overnight. We did OK with the day use parking lot at the trailhead. The first mile is a wonderful boardwalk, the second mile was a succession of mudholes along the abandoned road, despite the record dry summer. I'd hate to see this trail is a wet year.
  The beach walk is glorious. If you have read your tide tables correctly you can pass Point of the Arches at low tide to reach another wonderful beach. We watched a mother sea otter and kit play in the tide pools, then run up the beach 20 feet from our nap site.
  We stayed overnight at Hobuck's Campground near the trailhead, mobbed on the summer weekend. Funky place with a few good sites near the beach...but the only tent campground in town.
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North Shi Shi Beach Access - Point of Arches — Aug 10, 2009 — Angie
Multi-night backpack
Issues: Overgrown | Mudholes | Water on trail
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My husband and I went on a 2-night/3-day backpacking trip to Shi Shi beach from August 10-12. Our experience was...
My husband and I went on a 2-night/3-day backpacking trip to Shi Shi beach from August 10-12. Our experience was bitter-sweet. Our time at the beach was spectacular after it stopped raining, but it was painstaking and expensive to get there. By the time we paid the $10. Makah Reservation recreation fee, the $13. park service fee for two nights of backpacking, and $10. per day to park on someone's property near the trailhead, we spent over $50. That's more than we've ever spent on any backpacking trip in the last 10 years. The trail, well...be prepared for mud puddle after mud puddle. It had been raining for a few days and was raining the day we hiked in, so there was mud and large puddles of water covering the trail almost the entire way. Because the trail is so overgrown beyond the boardwalk part, it was hard to walk around the mud. Our packs kept getting caught in branches and snagged by berry bushes when we tried to walk on the side of the trail. It wasn't so bad coming out because it had been clear for two days, so there were less puddles but still muddy spots to navigate. Unless you have really good balance, I recommend taking a walking stick to help you balance on logs that people have layed across some of the large pools of mud. I also recommend you put waterproofing spray on your boots and wear waterproof socks, be sure to have a pack cover and rain gear, and take an extra pair of boots or reef walkers in case your boots are soaked by the time you get to the trail. The last 50 feet or so is a steep walk down the side of a cliff, but there are trees and roots to grab onto to help keep you from falling. A rope or railing would be nice, but that would just be dreaming...can someone tell me what our backpacking fee is paying for exactly on this trail? The trail is fairly level except for the final cliff that drops down to the beach, so it would be a fairly quick hike if there wasn't so much mud to slow you down. The final destination is worth the physical effort, though I'm not sure it's worth $53. We got a great campsite up against the cliff not too far from the trailhead but far from other campers, just above some rocks that are exposed at low tide. The only pit toilet was in the trees on the lower part of the trail, just an exposed toilet attached to a board with a hole in it. There are a couple of streams along the cliff (on the beach) where you can filter salt-free water. The highlight for us was seeing a family of three river otters playing on the rocks, a sea otter, a pair of Peregrine falcons--one was feasting on a seagull while the other stood watch on the beach, a humpback whale, two eagles, and unfortunately a dead seal that washed up on the beach. There was even a beat up jet ski that washed up during a storm. We were able to walk about a mile to the Point of Arches at low tide and see all sorts of starfish, anemones, mussels and such in the tide pools. We enjoyed this hike as a one-time trip, but we won't ever do it again and I'm not sure I would recommend it for everyone. If you do go to Shi Shi, I highly recommend allowing an extra hour or two to see Cape Flattery. It's only a few minutes from the Shi Shi parking lot and a short hike out to a beautiful overlook at the junction of the Straight of Juan de Fuca and the Pacific Ocean, where you can see Puffins and other sea birds, and sometimes whales, as well as a lighthouse and part of Vancouver Island across the straight. Don't forget your binoculars.
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North Shi Shi Beach Access - Point of Arches — Aug 07, 2009 — Bruce
Multi-night backpack
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We chose the first wet weekend in 3 months for a family backpacking trip, but at least the intermittent mist...
We chose the first wet weekend in 3 months for a family backpacking trip, but at least the intermittent mist kept the crowds down, and didn't deter the kids from clambering around the tide pools all weekend.

When we woke up the first morning, we found a dead sea lion that the tide had deposited 30 feet from our tents (about 1/4 of the way from where the trail enters the beach toward Point of Arches). He/she remained untouched, and fortunately unstinky, during the 36 hours we were there, so I'm curious how he/she's doing now -- please report!

Note that the first water source is far down the beach. We (and most campers other than one large group) stayed farther north (closer to where you first reach the beach), requiring a long walk to get water. So make sure you have a large water vessel.

There are some interesting sights north of where the trail reaches the beach. After you climb over a few rocky hills -- easy with hiking boots and no backpack, trickier otherwise -- you reach a shipwreck.

In case you're curious, there's a decent little restaurant across from the general store in Neah Bay. The other places didn't look so good.
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North Shi Shi Beach Access - Point of Arches — Jul 17, 2009 — GrnLkHiker
Day hike
Issues: Mudholes
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I stayed at Crescent Lake Lodge, so was finally close enough to get out to Shi Shi Beach, a placed...
I stayed at Crescent Lake Lodge, so was finally close enough to get out to Shi Shi Beach, a placed I've longed to go for 10 years. It took about 2 hours to get to the trailhead. After stopping in Neah Bay at the Minimart for my $10 recreation pass, I parked right at the trailhead. Many overnight hikers were parking in private lots for $10 a day, but I decided to risk it. The gal at the Minimart said there had only been one car vandalism this year.

There has been a lot of effort and money put into the first two miles of this trail. Much of it is on boardwalks or bridges. The latter 1/2 mile was rather muddy, even though we've had dry weather. I can imagine it is like a swamp in the winter. The beach itself is gorgeous and many overnight campers were taking advantage of the summer weather. The onshore winds have been keeping it foggy until late afternoon, but the Point of the Arches were still spectacular.

I'll definitely be back for a backpack trip. Parts of it reminded me of the West Coast Trail up on Vancouver Island.
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North Shi Shi Beach Access - Point of Arches — Jul 01, 2009 — biowheez
Multi-night backpack
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This trip couldn't have been more perfect! Weather was hot, not a cloud in the sky, and very few people...
This trip couldn't have been more perfect! Weather was hot, not a cloud in the sky, and very few people around. We did see bear tracks on trail but luckily only encountered chipmunks, eagle, and deer on the beach! A few mud holes but nothing that required gaitors. Definitely going back!
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Location
Olympics -- Coast
Olympic National Park; Makah Nation
4.00 out of 5
Based on 20 votes
Featured In...

Day Hiking: Olympic Peninsula
by Craig Romano

To buy the full book, including maps, elevation profiles, photos, and more, visit:

A portion of all book sales from the links above benefits WTA and helps protect and maintain our trails.

Information about this hike provided in partnership with Mountaineers Books. Copyright © Craig Romano/The Mountaineers Books

Roundtrip 8.0 miles
Elevation Gain 200 ft
Highest Point 200 ft
Features
Coast
Rivers
Established campsites
Guidebooks & Maps
Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula (Romano - Mountaineers Books)
Green Trails Cape Flattery No. 98S
Custom Correct North Olympic Coast

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Driving Directions
(48.2937, -124.6651) Open in new window
Red Marker Shi Shi Beach and Point of the Arches
48.2937166667 -124.665083333

From Port Angeles follow US 101 west for 5 miles to the junction with State Route 112. Turn right (west) on SR 112, continuing for 64 miles to the community of Neah Bay. (Alternatively, take US 101 to Sappho and drive SR 113 north to SR 112 and then on to Neah Bay. This way is longer, but not as curvy.) Just past the Makah Tribal Museum is Washburn's, where you can purchase the required recreation pass. Continue west on Bayview Avenue for 1 mile, following signs for "Cape Flattery and Beaches."Turn left on Fort Street, and in 0.1 mile turn right on 3rd Street. In another 0.1 mile turn left on Cape Flattery Road. Follow this road 2.5 miles to a junction just before the tribal center. Turn left onto Hobuck Road and-staying on the main paved road, following signs for the fish hatchery-drive 4.3 miles to the trailhead, located on your right. Privy available.

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