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Observation Rock

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Observation Rock — Sep 04, 2011 — happyhiker
Day hike
Features: Wildflowers blooming
Issues: Water on trail | Bugs
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BUGS, BUGS, BUGS and dust. With our short heat wave after a disappointing summer weatherwise for ...
BUGS, BUGS, BUGS and dust.

With our short heat wave after a disappointing summer weatherwise for hiking, I set out to do this clockwise loop that is in Goldman. The Forest Service did a great job restoring the 2009 washout of the Carbon River Road. Be ready for the 14 mi of washboard gravel road to the Mowich Lake Campgrounds.

The bugs hit us as soon as we got out of the car. And dust as cars pass. The route begins on the trail to the closed Ranger Station, followed by a turnoff from the lake--look for the log stairs going up. The somewhat overgrown trail goes through the woods, through a rock meadow, into a valley and finally into a ravine. The climber's trail is pretty much clear of snow up to Knapsack Pass. I tried to rest there, but the bugs just would not quit. So turning to the right down the south side of Fay, the trail descends on a bunch of rocks. Snowfields fill the south side of the ridge. Basically head for Mt Rainier crossing over a few small islands of rocks. In a "normal season", this part of the route is bone dry. Descending down a small climber's route through brush that does not look all that hopeful, the route ends up more climber's trails on the northeast corner of Spray Park. By now, the persistent snow on the Park has all but melted--maybe 5% is left.

From here, head to the ridge that runs toward Mt Rainier. To attain this, you will have to traverse right (westward) till you hit the perpendicular bisector. You should hit the trail. A bit further up, there is a fork that is marked by a huge pile of rocks: the route looks like it continues up the snowfield. Instead, go right up onto the ridge. There is a very clear climber's trail that is much easier to follow. An added bonus--if there is a cross breeze, it will keep the bugs off. Wind is the best bug juice!

The upper trail takes you just above a small snowfield. Go right. Over this small ridge, the route splits: left to Echo Rock, right to Observation Rock. But stay left of Flett Glacier. Echo Rock has friable rock, and is not recommended without a hard hat. Looking at the Rock, there looks like no easy route. Up close, however, there is an easy trail up that is not technical. Observation Rock is not technical. With the hot sun, there is no need for the usual late season crampons. This rock can easily be summitted from either the left around the backside, or around to the right up the gentle slope. The route up Mt. Rainier goes up this right side. Mt. Rainier is grand viewed this close toward Wallis Wall.

The western trail back through Spray Park is a real trail. It passes many more wildflowers. A lovely hike here. Lots of log steps. Once you get to the flats, the trail passes by lots of exposure on the left. It is one of those up-and-down trails that is a bit psychologically tiring.

Bottom line--it's a great snow scramble except for the bugs.
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Observation Rock, Knapsack Pass, Spray Park — Aug 21, 2009 — N47W122
Multi-night backpack
Features: Wildflowers blooming | Ripe berries
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Great conditions for a late summer climb! Starting out from the Mowich Lake trailhead, my brother...
Great conditions for a late summer climb!

Starting out from the Mowich Lake trailhead, my brother and I were able to find the Knapsack Pass trail next to the ranger cabin with only a little difficulty. There was a blowdown right across the start of the trail, obscuring it. While it had been misting down at lower elevations, the trail was dry and in good shape. (We were told that wet conditions can be nasty on the Knapsack Pass trail.) As we gained elevation, the cloud deck lowered so we had sun and moderate temperatures most of the way up. I was pleased to find some avalanche lillies still in bloom on the west side of the pass. Some wild blueberries, too!

Beyond the pass and heading for the main Spray Park trail, there is a lot of independent routefinding to do, picking your way through the boulders. It's definitely easier to get to Spray Park via Knapsack than it would be to head back to Mowich the same way.

From the 6400 foot high point on the Spray Park trail, we found the path heading up towards Observation Rock. The path is clear up to a snowfield at about 6800 feet. Take the snowfield up to nearly 7000 feet, then go up over or around a rocky hill and you will find a sweet campsite with windbreak at the bottom of another snowfield. (Park regulations forbid building new windbreaks or clearing new backcountry campsites, but this one is already in place.) The campsite has a fantastic view towards Echo Rock, The Mountain, and Observation Rock, and a creek running off of the snowfield about 100 feet away. We had started our trip on a Friday just to increase our odds of landing a great spot like this one, perfect!

We set up camp and hung around in the evening, tromping up the little snowfield to take a look at the Flett Glacier and plan our route for the next day. Temps must have dropped to freezing overnight, because the creek had ice on it in the morning, and there were also ice crystals in the dirt in camp. We were glad we had our 15 degree bags!

Our goal for the trip was to climb Observation Rock on Saturday. The front slope of the Flett above camp looked a bit steep and icy to us, but we're just building our skills and it appeared that others went right up it. We elected to instead head cross-country to the west, crossing bounder fields and other arms of the Flett, to ascent to Ptarmigan Ridge. The western end of the Flett has a marvelous 30-foot wide ramp sloping easily up to the Ridge. More rocky travel followed, and we easily found our way up the back side of Observation, all the way to the top! Bluebird conditions, and 360 degree views including looking down on Echo Rock 500 feet lower. We took 2.5 hours from the campsite to the peak via this route.

After lunch on the rock we decided to head down on a somewhat more direct route toward camp, on the Flett along the edge of Echo Rock, down to the point where it became too icy and thin, where we hopped onto the red rocks and went cross-country back to camp to rest and enjoy the evening. 1.5 hours from the summit back to camp. That evening we finally met some other hikers; since leaving Mowich we hadn't met a single person for over 30 hours.

Sunday morning was clear and cool at altitude after another freezing night, and our hike back to Mowich Lake via the main Spray Park trail was a joy! It was sunny throughout Spray Park, the air was cool and just slightly moist, and many of the wildflowers were still in bloom. Best of all, there were no biting bugs that morning! We had such a good time that I'm already keen to go back!
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Knapsack Pass, Echo & Observation Rock, Mist Park, First Mother Mountain, Spray Park — Jun 20, 2005 — Don Geyer
Day hike
Issues: Water on trail
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Forecast for the Cascades: Mostly cloudy with 20% chance of rain showers. Forecast for the Olympic...

Forecast for the Cascades: Mostly cloudy with 20% chance of rain showers.

Forecast for the Olympics: Partly cloudy.

So, the Olympics it was! We planned to hike up to Upper Lena Lake and look at climbing either Lena or Bretherton. However, as I drove down to Tacoma to pick up Dale, I couldn’t keep my eyes off the spectacular morning alpenglow on Mount Rainier, and not a cloud to be seen. Plans were altered.

We arrived at Lake Mowich at 7:00 and immediately set off on the official “unofficial” trail up to Knapsack Pass. The trail is quite wet and muddy in its lower stretches. Avalanche lilies are just beginning to emerge along the lower trail, along with Western Pasque. The trail was snow free all the way up to the pass, which we reached in about 45 minutes. From there we followed the climbers trail up to the summit of First Mother Mountain and enjoyed spectacular, unobstructed views of Rainier. Some clouds were noticed low over the Central Cascades, but we could still see a distinguished Glacier Peak. Fay Peak had considerable snow yet on its north slopes, and we found that any snow not yet receiving sunlight was quite icy and difficult to get purchase in.

After nearly an hour on the summit we descended back down to the pass, noticing a few clouds hovering to the west. We began our descent and traverse thru Mist Park and over to Spray Park. Again, very little snow to negotiate. We commented that we had July conditions, except no bugs whatsoever. We did notice that the little snow we did traverse on was quite soft and sluffing (exposed to the sun).

We reached the Wonderland Trail and soon picked up a climbers path heading towards the Flett Glacier. More clouds were stacking to the west, though still nothing immediately threatening. The snow was now quite wet. By about 6,300’ we found ourselves shin deep in the snow. Clouds to the west were thickening. We could see down to Spray Park and Hessong Rock, but we could not look over Hessong Rock. Rainier was still in full view. The Central Cascades were dark.

On we climbed to the base of Echo Rock, which held a light dusting of snow on its upper reaches. The peak is comprised of fairly loose rock, though the views down to Mystic Lake and the Carbon Glacier are quite nice. We hurried off to Observation Rock, as we were growing concerned that Rainier would soon become engulfed in the ever-increasing dark clouds. Observation Rock had been our chief objective for the day and we didn’t want to be cheated of our views.

The snow was now knee deep as we climbed to the basin below Observation and traversed south below the rock summit. As we aimed for the summit ridge on the peak’s south side, I left the snow in hopes of finding easier travel on the volcanic rock. Nope. Back to the deep snow I went.

Finally the ridge was attained and a not-so-distinguished climbers trail. Soon, we were making ourselves comfortable on the summit. Views were outstanding, though we couldn’t see out to the west at all. We stayed on the summit for about an hour. At 3:00 we headed down.

The snow was very unstable. Many new sluffs existed that had not been present durring our ascent. As we descended below Echo Rock, the clouds began to thicken all around us and grow dark. At about 7,000’, thunder began to sound. Soon lightning was seemingly right above us, yet the thunder was still 5-6 seconds in following and seemed very high up. I immediately offered my ski poles to Dale and suggested he raise them high in the air with each step. We could look down to Spray Park via a “hole” in the clouds, but could not see anything else. About a mile from the Wonderland Trail (6,500’) a very cold rain began. We dropped our packs and dug out our parkas, only to have the short-lived rain stop (as I jokingly predicted). We found the Wonderland Trail in no time and enjoyed finally having something firm beneath our feet! By the time we reached the lower section of Spray Park, sucker holes of blue could be seen.

We reached the Spray Park TH at 6:00 for a total loop trip of 24 miles, 4,890’ total elevation gain. What a fabulous day!

Finally, we pulled over on the Mowich Lake Road shortly outside the park and enjoyed an unobstructed view back to a cloudless Mount Rainier and its glistening white slopes – nothing but blue skies overhead!

Pics posted soon at www.mountainscenes.com.

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Observation Rock, Knapsack Pass — Oct 03, 2004 — Trail Pair
Day hike
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On a beautiful Fall weekend, this is a beautiful hike! Super K and I left Kirkland by 7:00 Saturda...

On a beautiful Fall weekend, this is a beautiful hike!

Super K and I left Kirkland by 7:00 Saturday morning.....kknowing that it was going to be a long day.....and expecting it to be a rewarding day!

After a quick stop at the ranger station in Wilkeson where we did our duty and registered to camp at Mowich Lake. This was also an opportune time to ask Ranger Jim about the route to Observation Rock. Jim was very helpful (as usual). He mentioned that the snow conditions around the rock could be icey and recommened the use of crampons and ice axe (which we had with us).

After continuing the drive to Mowich Lake (el 4,900 ft.), we set up camp (it is such a luxury to have picnic tables and toilets)....had a snack, organized our packs for the hike and were on the Wonderland Trail by 10:30.

The first mile looses about 300 feet then the trail starts up with switchbacks and climbs up to Spray Park. The wild flowers are gone, but the Park is still beautiful in fall colors of gold and brown.

We stayed on the main Wonderland Trail until we reached the high point at about el. 6,264 ft. There is also a large cairn at this point. Then taking a southerly turn (right), the trail climbs through gentle heather and rock slopes. At times the trail will fade away in the rocks. But with Echo Rock and Observation Rock in view, it is easy to set a course and head for the col between the Rocks. At a point where the trail encounters a ""wall"" of boulders, we picked our way to the top. There is a nice camp shelter with flowing water at this point....and the trail is easily picked up again. We circled around the first show field crossed anaother boulder field....kick steps across the next snow field...crossed a gravel ridge....dropped down to the edge of Russel Glacier where we strapped on crampons. We walked on up,.passing between Echo Rock and Observation Rock. As we approached Observation Rock we came to an icey gulley leading up adjacent to the northeast shoulder of Observation Rock. This was the iciest part of the climb and the crampons made the climb possible.. We attained the ridge line and from theer it is an easy scramble up to the summit (el. 8,364 ft.).

At the summit we met a roup of four ice climbers. They had just come up the steeper, icier north face of Observation Rock...and were enjoying the summit as much as we were. Time was passing. It was already 3:00. It took us 4 1/2 hours to reach the summit and we had to hustle to get back to camp before dark. So, we had a quick snack...took some photos and began our descent. Plunge stepping down the glacier and across the snow fields was fasat and easy. Again stopping at the lower edge of the Russel Glacier to take the crampons off and get onto the trail. Once we reached the Wonderland Trail, we made the rest of the trek to camp in pretty short order....and made it back before the sun set at 6:30.

Generally I would say that we had a great day....and we did!....But little did we know that more adventure was awaiting. After we had dinner.....and were relaxing with our cocoa, a young man ran into camp with news that one of his buddies had fallen and was hurt. Fortunately he had met 2 women on the trail who made contact with emergency personnel. K and I got as much information from the young man as we could to determine where the accident was. Now we all know that accidents can happen in the wilderness...but this group of young soldiers from Fort Lewis showed remakable lack of wisdom by deciding that they were going to go climbing at 6:00 at night! Anyway, I digress. By the time park emergency people showed up (just 35 miunutes after the call), We had determined that the Young ""climbers"" had gone up towards Knapsack Pass...then gone off trail up a rocky ridge in their attempt to climb to ""the Point"" of Faye Peak. With this information the first group of six people...which included 2 ranges and 4 other climbers/hikers headed up toward the accident. K and I stayed with Ranger Tyler at the Ranger Cabin where the litter was being prepared. A helicopter was on its way with a med tech. But the litter was necessary in case the victim had to be relocated to a place where the 'copter could pick him up. Now it was our turn....our group of six started hauling the litter up the steep rooted, muddy trail in the dark. Head lamps are an amazing tool! We would trade off toting the litter...as one person got tired or winded another would pick up the slack. It was a true team effort. When we were about 200 ft. from the accident site, we were directed to ""stand by"" until the litter was needed. We had no more than set the litter down when we could hear the sounds of a 'copter approaching. After setting the medic on the ground to stabilize the victim the ""copter circled around the area. We heard via Tyler's radio that the victim had a head injury...had lost a lot of blood, had broken his right leg, broken his left arm....and his pelvis. The med got the victim splinted and strapped to a back board then onto a litter to be hoisted into the 'copter....I am very impressed with the work of the rangers and the volunteer rescue workers. But the evenings work was not yet done. Another one fo the intrepid ""climbers"" had managed to get himself up onto a cliff about 150 ft above was unable to get himself down...yep, the guy got himself ""cliffed out"". We were wondering what would make this guy want to climb up there in the dark?!?! Maybe he wanted to get higher to get a connection for his cell phone? Again I digress. I am sure that he will be eternally grateful that there were some experienced climbers in the rescue party. They set anchors while dodgeing falling rock. With great difficulty the genius ""climber"" was belayed down. Whew! After a sigh of relief, we had to haul the litter and medical gear back to the ranger cabin....down that nasty, rooted, muddy, slippery trail. We made it back to camp in one piece....it was 12:30 and we were exhausted...and the remaining rescue workers were still coming down. It has been a very long day!

We slept pretty well. Our camp neighbors, who worked the night before, got up at 5:00 to go ice climbing at Observation Rock. We snoozed unitl about 7:00......had a nice breakfast with hot coffee. Then went for a hike up the Knapsack Pass trail. We wanted to see the accident site in daylight. The trail was still rooted, muddy in places and slippery in places...but it really is a decent trail...leading up through a pretty basin to Knapsack ,Pass where there are some wondeful views of Spray Park, Observation and Echo Rosks....with Mount Rainier in the background.

Although this was more adventure than we usually get on our hikes, it was certainly memorable...it was a beautiful area to explore. We hope the injured young man makes a complete recovery.

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Spray Park,Echo-Observation,Knapsack Pass — Aug 24, 2003 — Anon.
Day hike
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From Mowich Lake, we hiked up the Knapsack Pass Tr., and followed the partially off-trail route to ...

From Mowich Lake, we hiked up the Knapsack Pass Tr., and followed the partially off-trail route to Spray Park. Just E. of Knapsack Pass, we met a lost party that had had to bivouac there. Hikers should note that the E. approach to the Knapsack Pass Tr. may be difficult to find if you don't know exactly where it is, or if visibility is bad. A search-and-rescue party found the lost party and led them up to the pass as we watched. Hiking to Spray Park, we found that if you follow a trail along the NE edge of Spray Park, there are spectacular scenic views of Mist Park, 800 ft. or so below. The alternative is to cross the open meadows, where purple asters and gentian are the main flowers in bloom. From the 6400 ft. high point on the Spray Park Tr., we followed the way trail up the ridge to the base of the Flett Glacier at Point 7225 on the Mowich Lk. Quad. Remaining snowfields can now be easily circumvented, so sneakers are being worn, and ice axes aren't needed. There was a cold wind at 7225 ft., so we didn't go any higher, but other parties did. We didn't see anyone using crampons, but ice axes are good to have on the glacier. We discovered a super campsite here (in use) with a huge rock windbreak, for thise willing to carry camping equipment up this high. We met a dozen or more parties during the day, not counting two search-and-rescue parties, the high ridge being the most popular area, and the Knapsack Pass trail the least.

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Location
Mt. Rainier -- NW - Carbon River / Mowich

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