July 12, 2008: Pyramid Mountain (Chelan)

From valley floor to a seat amongst the gods: rushing stream and flowery meadows, bowing gracefully to stupendous views of smoke-draped Lake Chelan and lofty Glacier Peak… What more could I have asked from the day?

Last year, in mid-June I had eyed Pyramid Peak from nearby Crow Hill’s summit. The long drive (7hrs round-trip!) meant that it took me till now to make a return visit to such a beautiful part of Washington - or maybe the burly creek crossings had something to do with it? My day began with a 2:05am start from the house. The only bit of excitement on the long 3hr+ drive was driving past the Badger Mountain fire: orange flames reflecting in the still dark waters of the Columbia River made for a ‘glittering’ display; only later, in the cold light of day, would the devastation make a sobering impression.

At 5:30am I began my hike from the North Fork Entiat trailhead. Deep in the bowels of the valley sunrise, well underway, had yet to make an impression. It was quite chilly as I motored along familiar ground. The first two creek crossings (Crow Creek and South Pyramid Creek Crossing – I) were smooth: easy rock-hopping took care of the first and a swanky bridge the second. As I left the North Fork Entiat trail for the Pyramid Creek trail I began to mentally prepare myself for the potentially difficult crossing just ahead: South Pyramid Creek Crossing – II. Last year, I had faced swift, icy cold water up to mid-thigh. This time it was a breeze: nice, almost placid, mid-calf deep waters led to a refreshing ford and I was soon back to motoring along the trail.

At 3.5mi, after crossing Butte Creek on a handy log, I entered new, unseen territory. South Pyramid Creek Crossing – III was made easier by another less-handy log. Almost immediately after this the character of the trail changed: small, lush green meadows, dotted with flowers began to intrude on the forest. The color display was particularly soothing in the soft morning light. This, along with a gentle grade, made the footsteps light and I almost skipped along, curtseying periodically to the flowers as I snapped a photograph here, sniffed a stamen there. Not even precarious rock-hopping to tackle South Pyramid Creek Crossing – IV (6th and last creek crossing, in case anyone’s keeping score) ruffled my mood.

At Three Tree Camp, 5.5mi in, I took a right on the Pyramid Mountain trail. Finally, the grade steepened and I began to make inroads in the elevation gain. Long switchbacks began to take me steeply up to the ridge crest. Pretty snow-melt streamlets, more colorful flowers in pretty meadows and ever expanding views kept the scenic-meter high.

Heart pumping, from exertion as well as exhilaration, I gained the ridge crest, where I took a left on the Pyramid Viewpoint trail. Some gentle meadow meandering for a short stretch deposited me at the base of the final push, still shy of Pyramid Mountain’s summit by some 1,200ft. A moderate, though consistently steep grade ensued: another series of long switchbacks proceeded to take me higher, and yet higher still. Pugh Ridge, having towered over me for seemingly ages, now became an afterthought; Glacier Peak, first showed a leg and then proceeded to disrobe completely; Cardinal Peak to the north, while still dominant, became a bit less intimidating. Lake Chelan though, remained hidden behind Pyramid Mountain’s last remaining bit; a jewel to be revealed only when I had no more ups to climb.

5hrs after starting I had my reward and the deep blue waters of Lake Chelan lay 7,000ft below me. However, a surprise lay in store for me: that ‘glittering’ display of orange flames seen in the early hours had consequences. A lacy, ghostly finger of smoke led down-valley, disappeared behind a ridge, and then reappeared beyond, having magically thickened to form an ominous white mass that blanketed almost everything. Views to the south also suffered, though the display carried an eerie beauty.

Somewhat disquieted, I messed about for half an hour before heading back down, where more disquietment happened as I drove past the charred hillsides.

Additional photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/shahiddurrani/sets/72157606164823239

Cumulative stats:

• Distance: 19mi

• Elevation gain: 5,500. High point: 8,823ft

• Hiking time: 9hr 15min

• Total trip time: 16hr 20min

I drove my dog Yeti over from the west side to escape the WWIII neighborhood firecracker wars. Forest road 5900 from the Entiat River Road is in good shape for passenger cars. Nobody was at the Big Hill trailhead when we arrived, but the parking area would be a nice car camp with good views to the west and east without any shade. The trail skirts around Crow hill before dropping several hundred feet by switchbacks to the junction with Butte Creek trail. The views are great most of the way. There are still several snow patches on the trail, and all the water sources are flowing nicely, but are easily stepped over.

A forest service sign designates the pleasant campsite 6.2 miles from the Big Hill trailhead as Pyramid Meadows. The views from here are to the west through the trees. The next day, we lounged in camp until the sun finally warmed the sheltered meadow to a tolerable temperature. After a brief climbing stretch through the trees, the trail breaks out into open slopes and contours around to the north side switchbacking up Pyramid peak. There are several blow downs along the way that are the walk around type rather than over/under size.

On top, I wrote in the peak register and snapped a few photos before clouds blew in and forced a rapid retreat to get out of the wind. There are several flat spots on the summit that would be appealing on a clear calm night. Looking down to the lake 4000 ft below, I was amazed to read in the register that some people approach Pyramid peak from the lake.

We lounged in camp the rest of the day under mostly cloudy and cool conditions with almost no bugs. The sun came out for the hike out the following day. In order to avoid the highway 2 holiday traffic jam, we decided to return over the North Cascades highway 20 via Chelan, Twisp, and Winthrop. So we drove down the east side of the pass on forest road 5900 to Lake Chelan. This section of the FS road isn't as good as the Entiat approach, and might not be advisable in a passenger car.