Trailhead location 48.074720°, -120.851390° (Trinity Washington)

I made this loop as a solo hiker.

The weather was perfect and the trails in great shape. There are a few blowdowns here or there, but they’re either low enough for most to get over or there are bypasses.

I walked into and spent my first night in Phelps Basin, very nice! There are limited spots and the basin is a relatively small space, so I wouldn’t plan on getting a spot but would always try and then be happy if I did. Spider Meadows is an awesome place, of course!

The climb up and over Spider Gap was uneventful and I had none of the sometimes-noted issues with discontinuous snow fields, ice under a thin layer of top-melt, etc. Larch Knob is an interesting and beautiful place, however just like Phelps Basin I would not plan on getting a spot there. The descent from Spider Gap was just a little dicey at a few points because it's just steep enough that unless snow conditions are just so, you are likely to slip and slide a little (which I and others did.) But no worries, unless it's slick you just sort of slide to a stop almost immediately and that's it.

It was however VERY obvious why people recommend one turn back if the conditions are hard or icy. And I would echo that... If the conditions are hard/slick/icy and unless one is an experienced glacier traveler, the potential for catastrophe is very real. 'Nuff said.

Anyways, descended as far as the lower upper Lymans and made camp there. Beautiful scenery, good water, lots of open space. Both in Phelps basin and here, the play of light on the ridges etc as the sun rises and/or sets offers the potential for some nice photography, if one take the time to get a good sampling. Also there were lots of bugs. Just one word: Permethrin! Bear bag trees were sparse, but the stereotypical bear presence wasn't to be found. The general consensus was that because this is a late season, the bears are lower. I had a bear vault anyways.

BTW, do not go on this trip assuming you will find solitude. Deeper in the trip and depending on weather and conditions and time of week and traffic on the PCT, you *may* find *some* solitude. But if my experiences was any indication, likely not.

Next morning, broke camp and descended to lower Lyman, took a few photos, and started off for Cloudy Pass. Made Cloudy Pass sometime later. Flushed a grouse on the way to Cloudy Pass.

Made camp at Cloudy Pass and after hydrating etc began to mix and mingle. There was an interesting mix of avid locals, thru-hikers revisiting favorite spots (that ought tell you something about this loop), thru hikers, and weekend warriors like me. The climb up from Lyman lakes and the call of Hart Lake and Holden etc in the other (downhill) direction does tend to thin the herd on this portion of the loop, but still you likely won’t be lonely either.

In any event Cloudy Pass is very picturesque and there is a surprising amount of room, so bring a camera and enough food and gear to stay, and join the crowd. Just be respectful and let the quietude and beauty and airiness of the place be your experience (and the experience of others in spite of your own presence.)

Saw two relatively un-weathered but not quite fresh black bear tracks at Cloudy Pass. While at CP, there was talk of black bear sightings at Suiattle Pass and somewhere out on Miners Ridge. Again, the general consensus is that black bear are rather thick, but tend to avoid direct contact with people and in general are lower this year because (as of Aug 15th-19th) the berries weren't out yet.

There was also a fire somewhere west/southwest of CP (as best we could tell) and for much of the afternoon/evening a chopper would fly out in the general direction of Miners Ridge or beyond, then return with a water bucket and fly off west/southwest again. There was also no small amount of fire haze in the air off in that direction. It was a sobering reminder of the enemy fire is to the great outdoors.

Next AM I broke camp slowly, almost reticent to leave but also anxious to get to the next new thing on this glorious loop. After packing up and the compulsive trip around my camp area with my pack on looking for anything I might have missed, I set off on the hikers' cutoff to Suiattle pass.

Note: I've not seen this mentioned anywhere, but my experience was that the hikers' cutoff to Suiattle Pass apparently bypasses the "eye poppin'" view of Glacier Peak at Suiattle Pass summit. Apparently that view is right at Suiattle Pass and the hikers' cutoff joins the main trail some distance past that spot.

But no worries, as long as you are willing to frame pictures with at least a few trees in the foreground, there's quite a few opportunities for Glacier Peak pictures from Suiattle Pass to Buck Creek Pass, just take your pick and make the best of the remaining opportunities.

As I just started the descent into the Miners Creek drainage, a couple younger hikers passed me on their way down and later two more hikers came up past me. They reported having spent the night on Middle Ridge and having seen black bear moving around the ridge.
 
I saw no one else until much later in the day at Buck Creek Pass.

I made my way down to the Miners Creek crossing. I’d forgotten to much noise for a long time, so I called out “Echo!”. The result was a bear perhaps 100-150 yards upstream roaring back at me. The details are mundane, except to say that after checking for clarity I got the message loud and clear: "Get ye out of my valley!" So I did.

The rest of the trip was uneventful. I made my way up Middle Ridge, but because of the reports of bear activity on Middle Ridge and having just had my own encounter nearby, I continued on to Buck Creek Pass. Middle ridge would’ve been a nice place to stay, but not this time.

At Buck Creek Pass the views, opportunities for side trips, and so on would take days to even begin to explore. It is a large alpine meadow on the flank of a ridge, with several drainages nearby falling away in different directions and several local, lesser peaks (and of course, Glacier Peak) looming over the scene. Unfortunately for me the air was still hazy from the recent fire. The apparent downside to Buck Creek Pass is that the campsites and water all appear to be some distance from the main trail.

I was in no mood for exploring nor marching around the greater Buck Creek Pass area at length in order to get settled in, and with my bear encounter still ringing in my ears marched off towards the trail head.

I finally found a camp I liked well into the lower reaches of the Buck Creek drainage/trail, made camp, and slept. The next morning I walked the remaining five or so miles to the trailhead and then hooved it back to the Phelps Creek TH.

All in all a grand and glorious trip. Highly recommended, but do practice good bear country practices.