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Spider Meadow and Phelps Basin

Last modified Oct 25, 2009 01:26 AM

This long but easy valley romp follows boisterous Phelps Creek to a mile-long broad flower-bursting meadow and a giant cirque beneath a formidable wall of towering peaks. But don't expect solitude, for Spider Meadow crawls with backpackers-brigades of them! The valley is large enough to disperse in, though, and Phelps Basin offers a quiet retreat from the meadow's loungers and shutterbugs and their tent cities.

The number of vehicles at the trailhead should give you a good indication of the popularity of this hike. Spider Meadow is one of the busiest places within the Glacier Peak Wilderness.

Head down the Phelps Creek Trail, an old road reverting nicely to trail. In 0.25 mile, after hopping across a refreshing creek, come to the junction with the Carne Mountain Trail. Continue straight, traversing pleasant forest and crossing several side creeks, entering the Glacier Peak Wilderness at 2.5 miles.

Continuing along Phelps Creek, the delightful trail marches gently up the valley. Pass through groves of big Engelmann spruce and by tailings of old mines. The area is littered with old mines, and a few doughty prospectors still work claims in the vicinity. At 3.4 miles cross Leroy Creek, which may be tricky in periods of high runoff. On the north side of the creek you may notice a trail taking off right. This is the start of the Leroy High Route, a challenging alpine route through the Entiat Mountains.

About a mile beyond Leroy, the trail actually takes a noticeable ascent, but still quite gentle, mind you. At just over 5 miles, break out from the trees to the edge of Spider Meadow (elev. 4750 ft). Now behold the beauty of an open U-shaped valley carpeted in brilliant wildflowers. Look up to 7646-foot Red Mountain, its rusty summit contrasting nicely with its necklace of snow patches. You can call it quits here, finding a nice place to lounge by Phelps Creek, or continue farther to more dramatic scenery.

The trail carries on, blazing right up the middle of the sprawling meadows. At 5.5 miles it crosses a side creek and then climbs through a cluster of firs and enters an upper meadow. Stare up at cascading creeks coming down off of Red Mountain and Phelps Ridge. Now hop across Phelps Creek, after which the trail steepens and reenters forest. At just over 6 miles reach a signed junction. The trail left climbs to Spider Gap en route to the Lyman Lakes-it's where all of the backpackers are heading.

Hang a right on the path less taken, and in less than 0.5 mile reach the head of the wide-open cirque called Phelps Basin (elev. 5400 ft). It's quite a dramatic spot, hemmed in by the vertical walls of 8421-foot Dumbell Mountain. Melting snowfields give birth to Phelps Creek here, where it tumbles through vibrant clusters of violet monkey flowers. Notice that you have the whole basin to your-self. The marmots don't count.

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Recent Trip Reports

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There are 46 trip reports for this hike. See all trip reports for this hike.
Spider Meadows #1511 — Aug 23, 2006 — DadnnoJas
Day hike
Issues: Overgrown | Bugs
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The hike to Spider Meadow was very dusty but the dust is broken up by several streams crossing the trail....

The hike to Spider Meadow was very dusty but the dust is broken up by several streams crossing the trail. Bugs were tolerable as long as you keep moving. The meadow and views are beautiful! Flowers mostly gone and the snow on the mountains getting scarce, but still an awsome hike. The trail across the meadow is overgrown and requires anyone wearing shorts to love close encounters. I hiked to the ridge at the far end of the valley and camped on the cliff overlooking the valley. Great views down to the valley and out to the mountains, especially sunset/sunrise. The wind howled all night and made for a bugless camping experience. The next day I hiked up the Spider glacier/snowfield to Spider gap and then beyond to about 1/2 way to Lyman Lake..what views! Lyman glacier is definitely glacier looking with large crevasses and wall extending into the melt pond/lake.

On the Spider glacier/snowfield I encountered the only wildlife on the trip (or should I call it the wilddead?). In the middle of the snowfield was a marmot, four leggs to the sky, not sure how he got there! On the way down the snowfield, I started to take the rock/cairn-marked way instead of the snowfield, but stopped after 1/4 of the way...the snow is much easier and more fun! - though there are spots/holes with running water underneath. Only met 4 other groups during the two days. One couple stopped me in Spider Meadow and said they were hiking to Holden village and spending 4 days out....and asked ME if they were on the right trail to Lyman lake ..where they wanted to spend the first night...scary...hope they're ok.

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Spider Meadows #1511,Phelps Creek #1511 — Jul 16, 2006 — Dragon Feet
Day hike
Issues: Water on trail | Snow on trail
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Dragon Feet heads to Spider Meadows on what proves to be a solid forecast for glorious weather. We opt for...

Dragon Feet heads to Spider Meadows on what proves to be a solid forecast for glorious weather. We opt for an ""early"" departure from the Seattle area in a futile effort to snag the best camping spot in the meadows. We leave home at 6:45 AM and are at the trailhead at 10 AM. There are already lot's of rigs at the trailhead, however some folks are headed up the Carne Mntn trail and some are climbing Mt Maude. There is also a search and rescue under way for any trace of a solo hiker lost since September 2005. We are asked to keep our eyes open for camps, gear etc. now that the snow is melting.

The trail to the meadows follows Phelps Creek on an easy grade through stands of trees and small meadows. We encountered patchy snow at about 4500', but it will surely be gone in a week or two with this hot weather.

Alas, our desired campsite is occupied, so we continued on through Spider meadows. The flowers are just starting to bloom and will be in their full glory by the end of the month. We crossed the creek at the north end and begin a fairly steep ascent up to the intersection of the Spider Gap and Phelps Basin trails. We head to spetacular Phelp's Basin and in 0.5 miles find the only ""established"" campsite unoccupied. It is a grassy knoll just next to the creek. It is just large enough for two cozy tents and the creek's furious roar muffles the sounds of snoring companions.

This campsite is perfect if you don't mind a steady cool breeze blowing down from the snowfields. Great views, no people, no bugs.

The next morning we had a warm sunshine on our tents by 8:30 AM. After a leisurly breakfast we hiked up the steep trail towards Spider Gap. When you reach the top of the cliffs above the meadows, there is a 2 or 3 tent campsite. The only problem with this site is that it's a steep haul with a full pack and there's no other place to camp if it's already occupied. But what a view!!

We hiked up the snowfield to the Gap for a panoramic view of Lyman Lake. Two of us continued a bit further and were rewarded with a view of Lyman glacier as it flowed into the valley below.

The snowfield was just steep enough in places for some fun glisading and we were back at camp after about a 6 hour RT.

The next morning, we packed up for our trip out and were surprised at the number of people packing in on a Monday. The combination of scenery and ease of access makes this a popular spot, but it never felt particularly crowded to us.

P.S. We kept our eyes open for any traces of the lost hiker, without success. A reminder to let others know your intended route, especially if you hike alone.

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Spider Meadows #1511 — Jul 14, 2005 — Parker, Spike and 3 humans
Day hike
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Hiking up to Spider Gap is like walking through a Sierra Club calendar - spectacular vistas, masses of wildflowers,...

Hiking up to Spider Gap is like walking through a Sierra Club calendar - spectacular vistas, masses of wildflowers, views forever, gurgling creeks and relatively few people and dogs.

The trail to the meadows is level and often wide enough for a whole pack to walk side by side. Lots of shade and peek a boo views. Plenty of monkey face flowers, tiger lilies, columbine.

The meadow is humongous and filled with lupine, paint brush, anemomes, aster, cow parsnip, pearly everlasting, penstemon and more.

We camped at the fair end of the meadow and hiked up to Spider Gap in the morning. The first half of the trail is steep and rocky. The second half is on the spider glacier. There are a few tiny crevasses but nothing to worry about.

From the Gap you can see down to Lyman Lake, around to Lyman Glacier and to the surrounding peaks. There are lots of spider crawling around the rocks at the Gap.

Back down to the meadow and hit the trail home by 2:30. Back to the car around 5 pm.

FYI - The gas station next to the 59er Diner is not operational. It's 38 miles to the next gas station in Skykomish. Whoops!

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Spider Meadows #1511 — Jun 18, 2005 — Mark and friends
Day hike
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The main motivation of the trip was to check out snow conditions outside of the I-90 hikes we'd been...

The main motivation of the trip was to check out snow conditions outside of the I-90 hikes we'd been doing all spring so we thought that visiting Spider Meadows would give us the option of a pleasant destination with the option of continuing to Spider Gap for a look into the lyman lakes basin. The day was drizzly but the cloud base remained high enough to see all the surrounding peaks. Getting to Spider Meadows presented no difficulty so we continued on to the start of the permanent snowfield. The snow was soft and easy to navigate with just ski poles so we continued on up to the gap fully expecting to see the lyman lake basin covered in snow. The basin was in fact largely melted out and it looked like it would be very easy to get to Cloudy Pass. Sadly, we were only prepared for a day trip and had to turn around and head back to cars as the skies cleared and wonder what the view would be like now........:-)

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Spider Meadows #1511 — Jun 12, 2005 — Steve Spencer
Day hike
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I decided to head up ro Spider Meadows for the first time. I've been meaning to do this hike...

I decided to head up ro Spider Meadows for the first time. I've been meaning to do this hike and since today called for fairly good weather, I gave it a shot. What a pretty place...It reminds me of the Royal Basin in the Olympics where I went for the first time as well back on May 21-22. However, this trip I was not snowed on like I was in Royal Basin. Hiking back from the meadows today were all sorts of backpackers...According to Wolfwoman's report preceding mine, most had ""fair"" weather at best this weekend...Today's weather was ""decent"" , with the nice sunshine on the way back to the trailhead from about 2-3pm.

The spider meadows do not disappoint. The drive is a good 130 miles from Bellevue where I started at 6:30am but this neck of the woods, the soutthern Glacier Peak Wilderness area, is not overrun as many of the Alpine Lakes trails seem to be. In addition to the beautiful meadows, Red mtn., Chiwawa Peak, and the other snow covered peaks, my biggest thrill was having a rather large Black bear run across the road in froont of my truck as I was driving to the Phelps Creek traihead this morning. Pretty cool to say the least, but I'd be fibbing if I didn't tell you that I was a little skiddish on the trail going up to the meadow when I heard a noise in the woods. Funny how those kind of sightings will make you pay attention. Anyway, I liked this hike enough to begin to think about a backpack going over the Spider glacier and gap down to Lyman Lake, over to Miners ridge, and back to Trinity making for a nice loop. In that regard, this first time scouting trip was indeed a success.

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Location
Spider Meadows (#1511)
Central Cascades -- Stevens Pass - West
4.00 out of 5
Based on 5 votes
Featured In...

Day Hiking: Central Cascades
by Craig Romano

To buy the full book, including maps, elevation profiles, photos, and more, visit:

A portion of all book sales from the links above benefits WTA and helps protect and maintain our trails.

Information about this hike provided in partnership with Mountaineers Books. Copyright © Craig Romano/The Mountaineers Books

Roundtrip 13.0 miles
Elevation Gain 1900 ft
Highest Point 5400 ft
Guidebooks & Maps
Green Trails Holden No. 113

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Driving Directions
(48.0829, -120.8350) Open in new window
Red Marker Spider Meadow and Phelps Basin
48.0829166667 -120.834966667

From Everett head east on US 2 for 85 miles to Coles Corner. (From Leaven-worth travel west on US 2 for 15 miles.) Turn left onto State Route 207 (signed for Lake Wenatchee) and proceed 4.2 miles to a Y intersection after crossing the Wenatchee River. Bear right onto the Chiwawa Loop Road, and after 1.3 miles turn left onto the Chiwawa River Road (Forest Road 62). Proceed for 22 miles (the pavement ends at 10.8 miles) to a junction. Bear right onto FR 6211 and proceed for 2.3 very rough miles to the trailhead at the road's end (elev. 3500 ft).

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