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Spider Meadow and Phelps Basin

Last modified Oct 25, 2009 01:26 AM

This long but easy valley romp follows boisterous Phelps Creek to a mile-long broad flower-bursting meadow and a giant cirque beneath a formidable wall of towering peaks. But don't expect solitude, for Spider Meadow crawls with backpackers-brigades of them! The valley is large enough to disperse in, though, and Phelps Basin offers a quiet retreat from the meadow's loungers and shutterbugs and their tent cities.

The number of vehicles at the trailhead should give you a good indication of the popularity of this hike. Spider Meadow is one of the busiest places within the Glacier Peak Wilderness.

Head down the Phelps Creek Trail, an old road reverting nicely to trail. In 0.25 mile, after hopping across a refreshing creek, come to the junction with the Carne Mountain Trail. Continue straight, traversing pleasant forest and crossing several side creeks, entering the Glacier Peak Wilderness at 2.5 miles.

Continuing along Phelps Creek, the delightful trail marches gently up the valley. Pass through groves of big Engelmann spruce and by tailings of old mines. The area is littered with old mines, and a few doughty prospectors still work claims in the vicinity. At 3.4 miles cross Leroy Creek, which may be tricky in periods of high runoff. On the north side of the creek you may notice a trail taking off right. This is the start of the Leroy High Route, a challenging alpine route through the Entiat Mountains.

About a mile beyond Leroy, the trail actually takes a noticeable ascent, but still quite gentle, mind you. At just over 5 miles, break out from the trees to the edge of Spider Meadow (elev. 4750 ft). Now behold the beauty of an open U-shaped valley carpeted in brilliant wildflowers. Look up to 7646-foot Red Mountain, its rusty summit contrasting nicely with its necklace of snow patches. You can call it quits here, finding a nice place to lounge by Phelps Creek, or continue farther to more dramatic scenery.

The trail carries on, blazing right up the middle of the sprawling meadows. At 5.5 miles it crosses a side creek and then climbs through a cluster of firs and enters an upper meadow. Stare up at cascading creeks coming down off of Red Mountain and Phelps Ridge. Now hop across Phelps Creek, after which the trail steepens and reenters forest. At just over 6 miles reach a signed junction. The trail left climbs to Spider Gap en route to the Lyman Lakes-it's where all of the backpackers are heading.

Hang a right on the path less taken, and in less than 0.5 mile reach the head of the wide-open cirque called Phelps Basin (elev. 5400 ft). It's quite a dramatic spot, hemmed in by the vertical walls of 8421-foot Dumbell Mountain. Melting snowfields give birth to Phelps Creek here, where it tumbles through vibrant clusters of violet monkey flowers. Notice that you have the whole basin to your-self. The marmots don't count.

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Recent Trip Reports

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There are 46 trip reports for this hike. See all trip reports for this hike.
Spider Meadows — Aug 02, 2009 — The Sidos
Overnight
Features: Wildflowers blooming
Issues: Bugs
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The road an trail are in good condition. The wildflowers in the meadow are in full bloom and absolutely beautiful....
The road an trail are in good condition. The wildflowers in the meadow are in full bloom and absolutely beautiful. The other thing that is in full bloom are the black flies in the heat of the day. This hike has somehow stayed off of my radar for years, but it is now one that I would put in my top 10. Great either as a day hike or a mellow overnight Backpack.
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Spider Gap, Spider Meadows — Jul 12, 2009 — HikerChick
Overnight
Features: Wildflowers blooming
Issues: Water on trail | Snow on trail
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Despite an ominous weather report, we headed off for an overnight to Spider Meadows. The trail into the meadows...
Despite an ominous weather report, we headed off for an overnight to Spider Meadows. The trail into the meadows is in great shape with only a few places that would benefit from drainage work. There are a lot of small creek crossings along the way.

There are tons of wildflowers blooming – bluebells, queen’s cup, lupine, columbine, tiger lily, avalanche lily, and a gazillion others - but it is still early. There are many more blooms to come!

We arrived in Spider to see the destruction left by a massive avalanche. While the snow was gone, the giant matchsticks that were once trees were scattered across the first part of the meadow. At least a couple of campsites were almost certainly scoured away. It was hard to grasp the force that must have torn through to do that much damage.

The trail is clear all the way to the far end of Spider Meadows. Once you get close to Phelps Creek, you will find a couple of snow crossings - including one over the creek. We found the snow to be solid - but caution is still advised. It won't be long before the snow bridge is too weak for crossing.

We were pelted with hail and rain before reaching our chosen camp area, so we set up in one of the horse camps at the far end of the meadows to hunker down as Mother Nature put on several thunder and lighting storms.

The next morning we awoke to the rapturous songs of our feathered friends and the peeps and whistles of pikas and marmots. Once we got ourselves together, we headed up toward Spider Gap. The trail toward the Gap is much improved over previous years and the flowers become even more abundant along steep slopes. While the trail is improved, don't think it is easy. Compared to the lower trails, this one is more of a scramble. There are many loose rocks and it is steep. Seriously fun - but steep.

Once we reached the snowfield below Spider Glacier, we were awed by the views back toward the floor of Spider Meadows and amazed by the waterfalls cascading off of the surrounding cliff walls. The place was empty of people and beautiful. 500' higher it was also full of fog. Since neither of us felt the need to trudge up the snow into a thick white cloud so we could see nothing but white, we turned around.

By the time we made it back to our camp, the sun came out to fill the lower areas with warmth and dazzling light. We were finally able to see the tops of Mt. Maude and Seven Fingered Jack while Dumbbell Mountain and much of Red Mountain played an on-going game of peek-a-boo through the clouds.

The hike out was mellow and became increasingly hotter as we got closer to the parking lot. Growling stomachs made the drive out feel longer than the ride in but eventually we made it back to the highway for delicious (and oh, so healthy) cheeseburgers and onion rings!

A great trip and one of the most amazing places in Washington!
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Buck Creek Pass, Buck Creek, Suiattle Pass, Railroad Creek, Upper Lyman Lake, Spider Meadows — Aug 30, 2008 — Scott&Lucy
Multi-night backpack
Features: Wildflowers blooming | Fall foliage | Ripe berries
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We wanted to make the best of the Labor Day weekend, so we set off at 5:30am from north Seattle....
We wanted to make the best of the Labor Day weekend, so we set off at 5:30am from north Seattle. Got to Trinity around 8am after the most disgusting breakfast ever at the Sultan McDonalds. The 30 minutes spent eating a real breakfast would have been worth it both in the taste & energy we would have got.

It was sunny & fairly windy at Trinity but we soon got our packs on & headed up the trail. Buck Creek trail is easy & flat for the first 6 miles or so. The PCT detour has been good to this trail--almost too good in some parts; it looked like it had been clearcut. About 5mi in we felt raindrops on us. Odd--it was sunny out! As we proceeded we saw a bank of fog/low cloud hugging the ridge top--the wind was blowing the drops our way. It gradually got colder and when we hit the real precipitation it was snow pellets; nice because we didn't get wet! The trail gets steeper--and more scenic once it starts climbing away from the river--about 6mi in.

We made Buck Creek Pass about 3:30 (yes we were taking our time--that McD's breakfast). Glacier Peak was shrouded in mist--just peeking through in parts. No one there but lots of nice campsites in the beautiful meadows. We decided to press on to a lower elevation so we didn't freeze that night.

A steep & quick hour down found us at Small Creek where we decided to spend the night. Chilly & misty but we were warm with out red beans & rice--and some whisky.

The next morning dawned misty & chilly. We left (still in our long johns) at 10:15. The long johns came off after about 15 minutes up the hillside. Not too steep, but enough to warm us up. 11:15 found us at Middle Ridge, pretty in the mist, but no views. Then a walk down & through the forest to the "real" PCT at 12:30.

The trail up to Suiattle Pass was fairly easy in improving conditions through lovely huckleberry meadows. Took the hikers trail (not for the faint of heart) to Cloudy Pass. We sheltered from a heavy snowstorm about 300' below the pass & then went on to the blue sky we could see at the other side of the pass (4pm).

The meadows on the SE side of Cloudy Pass are beautiful, if past their prime. A pity the ridges were all shrouded in fog. Lower Lyman lake was windy & cloudy so we made for the Upper Lyman Basin: what an incredible place.

We pulled in to an awesome campsite completely sheltered from the wind somewhere around 5.30. The weather may not have been the best this weekend (though it was completely fine for us), but it sure made less hardy souls (and bugs) stay away. It was wonderful to have the whole Upper Lyman Basin just to ourselves.

Frost on the tent in the morning. We stayed in camp (watching a bear bound across the meadows) till about 11:15 so the snow would have a chance to soften on our paths up & down Spider Gap.

The trail up the gap isn't hard to find if you keep a lookout for the cairns. The snowfield was definitely the way to go. Made the top around 12:30 and glissaded (ice axe not needed) down the Spider "glacier" to Larch Knob. Boy the trail from there down to Spider Meadow is steep!

A leisurely lunch at the big boulder by Phelps Creek at 1:30. We left the lower meadow at 3pm & got back to the trailhead at 4.30. What a shock! Where were the hoards of people leaving Spider Meadow who were supposed to pick up a hitchhiker & take me back to the car? We started down the road & after about 15 minutes were picked up by a lovely lady driving a red jeep. If you read this, thanks & I hope your trip to the Enchantments was wonderful!

All in all a great hike, probably improved by the iffy weather keeping the crowds away.

One final note: the way to do this loop is clockwise; the steeps are all downhill that way, Spider Glacier is a glacier no longer, and that 8mi out Buck Creek trail would be boring & long at the end. Okay, if you don't have a modicum of experience of snowfields maybe do it counter-clockwise, but don't be put off by the warnings that the glacier is dangerous. It isn't--at least not in late summer.
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Spider Meadows #1511 — Jun 28, 2008 — Ready2climb
Day hike
Issues: Water on trail | Snow on trail
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This was the back up trip to Mt. Adams, which was snowed in. Three scouts from troop 438 in Bellevue...

This was the back up trip to Mt. Adams, which was snowed in. Three scouts from troop 438 in Bellevue and two adult leaders went for an overnight at Spider Meadows. We had not expected the high level of the stream crossings. Three required alternatives to boots, but we all got a little wet. Patchy snow started at the wilderness boundary at 2.5 miles, but it didn't get too deep or create trail finding issues until the last mile and it was still pretty firm even in the afternoon. A large avalanche debris field is just about 3.7 miles in, but is only a couple of hundred yards across. This avalanche came from the other side (west) of the valley and the trees are blown uphill where the trail was. Spider meadow is just shedding the last of it's snow. Only two campsites were snow free, and the upper end is completely snowed in due to avalanche debris. A couple were going to camp at the knob above the meadows, but turned around due to the high snow conditions.

Besides the avalanche debris, only one large tree over the trail near the trailhead. It was very hot, a few flowers were popping out, but I can only imagine how it will look in three weeks.

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Spider Meadows #1511,Spider Gap,Phelps Basin — Sep 19, 2007 — The Fifty-Niners
Day hike
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A classic Fall trip into Spider Meadow, up to Spider Gap and on day 3 into Phelps Creek Basin. Marginal...

A classic Fall trip into Spider Meadow, up to Spider Gap and on day 3 into Phelps Creek Basin. Marginal weather with some rain at night, but lots of sun between the clouds during the day, and what gorgeous country! So many campsites at the lower end of Spider Meadow we got our pick of them with both view and shelter from the wind. Firewood abundant and dry. The hike to Spider Gap was easy except for being side-tracked by spur trails to campsites enroute. Trail in great shape. View from The Gap spectacular. Snowfields not so steep as to even really require ice-axes, though we did have them. No bugs whatsover anywhere! Crisp Autumn air, auburn foliage of ash and huckleberry, cool breezes to keep you from overheating even during the most strenuous climbing. Upper Phelps Basin is absolutely pristine, barely any visible trace of boots or trails anywhere!

Photos at: http://picasaweb.google.com/pfitech.seanet.com/SpiderMeadowSpiderGapAndPhelpsBasinBackpack

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Location
Spider Meadows (#1511)
Central Cascades -- Stevens Pass - West
4.00 out of 5
Based on 5 votes
Featured In...

Day Hiking: Central Cascades
by Craig Romano

To buy the full book, including maps, elevation profiles, photos, and more, visit:

A portion of all book sales from the links above benefits WTA and helps protect and maintain our trails.

Information about this hike provided in partnership with Mountaineers Books. Copyright © Craig Romano/The Mountaineers Books

Roundtrip 13.0 miles
Elevation Gain 1900 ft
Highest Point 5400 ft
Guidebooks & Maps
Green Trails Holden No. 113

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Driving Directions
(48.0829, -120.8350) Open in new window
Red Marker Spider Meadow and Phelps Basin
48.0829166667 -120.834966667

From Everett head east on US 2 for 85 miles to Coles Corner. (From Leaven-worth travel west on US 2 for 15 miles.) Turn left onto State Route 207 (signed for Lake Wenatchee) and proceed 4.2 miles to a Y intersection after crossing the Wenatchee River. Bear right onto the Chiwawa Loop Road, and after 1.3 miles turn left onto the Chiwawa River Road (Forest Road 62). Proceed for 22 miles (the pavement ends at 10.8 miles) to a junction. Bear right onto FR 6211 and proceed for 2.3 very rough miles to the trailhead at the road's end (elev. 3500 ft).

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