Begin with a walk over a bouncy suspension bridge above the trout-rich waters of the Yakima River. This trail meanders up an ever-narrowing canyon, but it also seems to be a path to the past.

The trail leaves behind the highway and clusters of anglers and rolls up past an old homestead (complete with an overgrown, brambly apple orchard) and leads into pristine desert wildlife habitat. The year-round waters of Umtanum Creek draw a vast collection of critters to this canyon. Bighorn sheep roam the canyon walls and browse the grass-rich bottoms. Deer abound throughout the area. Coyotes hunt the heavy populations of rabbits, rock chucks (marmots), and upland birds (quail, pheasant, chukar, grouse, Hungarian partridge, and others). Rattlesnakes are frequently seen in the summer (another reason to visit in winter months) when they congregate to take advantage of the mice, voles, and ground squirrels that thrive in the creek-fed grasses and tree stands. Beavers and muskrats build homes in the creek, creating an endless series of pools and ponds throughout the length of the valley. All around, underfoot and on the canyon walls, desert wildflowers color the canyon.

From the trailhead parking area, cross the Yakima River via the broad foot-traffic-only suspension bridge, then cross the high berm of the railroad tracks. Once over the railroad route, enter the L. T. Murray State Wildlife Recreation Area. The trail meanders through a broad sagebrush flat for 0.5 mile or so before crossing an old fence line (a few rotten posts and a low mound of dirt are about all that remains of the fence). Around this old homestead site you'll see the remnants of an old cabin--mostly just its rock foundation and a scraggly grove of apple trees.

That's the last real imprint of humans in this wild canyon. Various species of sage provide texture and fragrance to the canyon floor, while the canyon walls tower overhead.

Visit in winter and you might find a dusting of snow (possibly a few inches). A thin blanket of snow is actually a benefit to hikers as it serves as a tapestry on which the comings and goings of the local population are recorded. If you find snow, you'll also find tracks left by deer, bighorns, coyotes, small mammals, and game birds. The creek is the only water source for miles around, and it's easy to see the pathways of animals that come down from the canyon rim to get water.

The trail crosses the creek at about 1 mile. The crossing is typically an easy rock-hop, though at times you'll be forced to find a shallow spot between beaver ponds--or to carefully cross on a beaver dam. Extensive beaver activity is visible on this small desert creek. Some dams (made primarily from the local aspen, cottonwood, and alder) stand 6 to 8 feet tall, creating ponds that stretch several dozen yards upstream. Frequently the dams are built back to back with a new one standing at the upper edge of the lower dam's pond.

About 2 miles up the trail, the trail skirts around a stand of low alder. On several visits to the area, we've encountered a portion of the resident herd of bighorn sheep (usually numbering 50 or 60 animals) either bedded down in this area or vacating their beds. The alder grove apparently provides good shelter for them on cold winter nights.

The trail continues up the canyon, but past the 3-mile mark it becomes narrow and largely overgrown and many creek crossings are needed. Rather than push on through the brush, turn around here and return through the rich canyon, remembering that you will find plenty to see on your way back.