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Umtanum Creek Canyon

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Begin with a walk over a bouncy suspension bridge above the trout-rich waters of the Yakima River. This trail meanders up an ever-narrowing canyon, but it also seems to be a path to the past.

The trail leaves behind the highway and clusters of anglers and rolls up past an old homestead (complete with an overgrown, brambly apple orchard) and leads into pristine desert wildlife habitat. The year-round waters of Umtanum Creek draw a vast collection of critters to this canyon. Bighorn sheep roam the canyon walls and browse the grass-rich bottoms. Deer abound throughout the area. Coyotes hunt the heavy populations of rabbits, rock chucks (marmots), and upland birds (quail, pheasant, chukar, grouse, Hungarian partridge, and others). Rattlesnakes are frequently seen in the summer (another reason to visit in winter months) when they congregate to take advantage of the mice, voles, and ground squirrels that thrive in the creek-fed grasses and tree stands. Beavers and muskrats build homes in the creek, creating an endless series of pools and ponds throughout the length of the valley. All around, underfoot and on the canyon walls, desert wildflowers color the canyon.

From the trailhead parking area, cross the Yakima River via the broad foot-traffic-only suspension bridge, then cross the high berm of the railroad tracks. Once over the railroad route, enter the L. T. Murray State Wildlife Recreation Area. The trail meanders through a broad sagebrush flat for 0.5 mile or so before crossing an old fence line (a few rotten posts and a low mound of dirt are about all that remains of the fence). Around this old homestead site you'll see the remnants of an old cabin--mostly just its rock foundation and a scraggly grove of apple trees.

That's the last real imprint of humans in this wild canyon. Various species of sage provide texture and fragrance to the canyon floor, while the canyon walls tower overhead.

Visit in winter and you might find a dusting of snow (possibly a few inches). A thin blanket of snow is actually a benefit to hikers as it serves as a tapestry on which the comings and goings of the local population are recorded. If you find snow, you'll also find tracks left by deer, bighorns, coyotes, small mammals, and game birds. The creek is the only water source for miles around, and it's easy to see the pathways of animals that come down from the canyon rim to get water.

The trail crosses the creek at about 1 mile. The crossing is typically an easy rock-hop, though at times you'll be forced to find a shallow spot between beaver ponds--or to carefully cross on a beaver dam. Extensive beaver activity is visible on this small desert creek. Some dams (made primarily from the local aspen, cottonwood, and alder) stand 6 to 8 feet tall, creating ponds that stretch several dozen yards upstream. Frequently the dams are built back to back with a new one standing at the upper edge of the lower dam's pond.

About 2 miles up the trail, the trail skirts around a stand of low alder. On several visits to the area, we've encountered a portion of the resident herd of bighorn sheep (usually numbering 50 or 60 animals) either bedded down in this area or vacating their beds. The alder grove apparently provides good shelter for them on cold winter nights.

The trail continues up the canyon, but past the 3-mile mark it becomes narrow and largely overgrown and many creek crossings are needed. Rather than push on through the brush, turn around here and return through the rich canyon, remembering that you will find plenty to see on your way back.
Driving Directions:

From Seattle, drive east on Interstate 90 to exit 110. After exiting, continue east on Interstate 82 about 3.5 miles to exit 3 (Thrall Road). At the stop sign, turn right on State Route 821. Turn left at the next stop sign to continue southeast along State Route 821 into Yakima Canyon (signed "Yakima Canyon") and continue about 8 miles to the Umtanum Recreation Area (between mileposts 16 and 17). A large gravel parking lot is on the right (west) side of the road. The parking lot is BLM you must pay $5.00 from 5/15 - 9/15 to park; fee collection box is at the parking lot.

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Recent Trip Reports

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There are 128 trip reports for this hike. See all trip reports for this hike.
Umtanum Canyon — Mar 06, 2005 — Mediancat
Day hike
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For my initial hike of 2005, I decided on the easy creek walk that is Umtanum Canyon. I began my hi...

For my initial hike of 2005, I decided on the easy creek walk that is Umtanum Canyon. I began my hike around 9:30am, with the weather cooperating. The first landmark I usually look for on this hike is the beaver construction area, where the beavers have added five more dams upstream of their den. In fact, it looked like they had taken a wrong turn in excavating, and part of the trail has a new sink hole in the middle of it. From there the trail was fine - always a pleasure this time of year before the growth takes over. After about two miles along, I noticed some sheep that were way up along the canyon rim and considered scrambling up one of the draws (remember, easy creek walk?) but thought better of it and continued on another mile. There I encountered the second beaver community which is far more extensive than the first. This is also about were the trail fades away. I found myself on a game trail with the canyon rim beckoning me (as it usually does). So once again, I scrambled toward the top. When I crested the final hill, the sheep were moving through and seemed to pick up the pace upon my arrival. They were perhaps 75 yards away. I paused to let them put more space between us, then I continued north hoping to find a way to navigate around a very large draw. But it wasn't to be as i found that the draw kept going much farther than i wanted to go. When i turned around to get my bearings with the canyon, i was being watched! The sheep had snuck up on me. I snapped a couple of pictures before the herd, as a unit, took a couple of steps toward me. I took a couple of steps back and then they decided to run away again. Whatever. So i headed back in the direction of the parking lot. While up on top though, i saw a strange spectacle - a bald eagle and another bird soaring close together overhead. I know it sounds weird, but the other bird looked like a red-tailed hawk. I flushed out a couple of chukars on accident and also saw a couple of praire falcons making the rounds. And, a first for me - i saw shooting stars growing on the top of the hill where the sheep were. I would have thought it too dry. That was about it for flowers other than some buttercup looking things. On the way back down one of the hateful draws, i noticed that again i was being watch. There were three sheep way up in the rocks above me. I felt like lecturing them in trail maintenance as their path left little to be desired, but it wasn't their fault that i didn't have hooves. It was good to finally get to the canyon floor and relatively flat ground. At this point, around the homestead site, the trail was getting pretty busy and it was time to head home. So much for my easy creek walk!

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Umtanum Canyon — Apr 25, 2004 — PeteNice
Day hike
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Gorgeous, no bugs, no worries. Spent one night at second sweet camp spot. Trail is easy to lose, c...

Gorgeous, no bugs, no worries. Spent one night at second sweet camp spot.

Trail is easy to lose, cross river at first camp spot and avoid beaver condo complex.

Much snake activity. Saw five rattlers. One so big he skipped across the grass.

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Umtanum Canyon,Yakima Rim Skyline — Apr 18, 2004 — wolfwoman
Day hike
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Our group did an overnight trip beginning at the south trailhead Yakima Rim trail to Umtanum Canyon...

Our group did an overnight trip beginning at the south trailhead Yakima Rim trail to Umtanum Canyon via some easy cross country travel. The wildflowers were excellent including cactus in bloom and lots of Lupine, Balsam root and many others I didn't recognize. We spent the night in Roza which was a disappointment as it seems that it's been plowed up for some unknown purpose and old town artifacts were piled up like so much junk. We camped up the trail toward Birdsong and had a pleasant night. Birdsong is definitely the place to camp with it's greenery and spring. Next day we climbed up the ridge toward the north trailhead, but cut over to Umtanum Canyon making an interesting variation on the usual route. Very nice with more wildflowers including a hot pink shooting star that I hadn't seen before. No snakes! No ticks either! Some fun thunderstorms on Saturday!

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Umtanum Canyon — May 03, 2003 — HikeMike
Day hike
Issues: Overgrown
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LarBear and I tried the Waptus Lake trail but there was still snow patches in the parking lot. From...

LarBear and I tried the Waptus Lake trail but there was still snow patches in the parking lot. From previous experience we know there would be ""rotton snow"" on the trail so we changed plans to sunny Umtanum Canyon. For the first time ever the parking lot was full of cars and more people hiking the canyon than we had ever seen. Normally it is easy for us to find a campsite but all normal camping areas were taken. No bugs yet on a day that was mild, windy with sun until evening when a light rain fell. Saw a dead rattlesnake on the side of the trail that unfortunately somebody had slaughtered. If you don't like snakes hike in town. Please don't harm these useful creatures. We also had a bull snake in our meadow camp so we just shooed it out of our way. We almost always see Bighorn sheep on the hillsides of this canyon but we saw none in Umtanum this time. We did see several small bands of sheep on the hillsides of Yakima Canyon. There is a lot of beaver damage in Umtanum Creek and one small area of the trail is nearly washed out but still easy to hike through.

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Umtanum Canyon — Apr 08, 2003 — whitebark
Day hike
Issues: Washouts | Overgrown
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Umtanum Canyon is one of my favorite spring hikes. Located at a low elevation deep in the rain shad...

Umtanum Canyon is one of my favorite spring hikes. Located at a low elevation deep in the rain shadow of the Cascades, the canyon is almost immune to any dampness occuring in Seattle.

To get there, drive east on I-90 to Ellensburg, then south on the Yakima Canyon road to the Umtanum Recreation area parking lot.

Cross over the Yakima River via the suspension foot bridge, and follow the trail through a patch of brush, over some railroad tracks (actively used, look around before crossing), and into the mouth of Umtanum Canyon.

At first the trail is easy going as it travels up the broad, meadowy floor of the canyon. If you're used to hiking dense, drizzly Cascade forests, the wide open spaces, blue skies, and sunshine will have you raving. The colorful cliffs of lava forming the walls of the canyon give the area almost a Southwestern ""canyon country"" feeling. The meadows are turning green with spring growth and flowers are beginning to bloom, some buttercups and balsamroot. The lower part of the canyon is almost treeless, but here and there grow scattered groves of aspen and cottonwood, pale green with newly budding leaves.

After a mile or so, the trail splits, and the ""correct"" trail crosses the sizable Untanum Creek. Finding the correct points to cross the creek is the major navigation problem of the canyon; the ""false"" trails that don't cross invariable look better at first, but then fade out in brush. Naturally, the impoverished public land owners (BLM and/or wildlife refuge) have provided no signage or much trail maintainence for that matter. A second crossing occurs a mile later; the correct trail drops down a steep bank, crosses the creek on logs, and resumes on the other bank next to a spacious campsite.

Beyond the second crossing, the trail steadily deteriorates. The walls of the canyon close in and the floor becomes narrower and brushier. At places, lichen-covered lava cliffs loom right over the trail. There's a lot more trees along this stretch, many chewed by beavers; a few pines and firs appear on the shady south slope. The trail passes a series of creekside meadows that positively beg for a picnic or even an overnight camp. Eventually the trail drops down to the edge of the creek at a gravel bar; just a bit further is the obscure third crossing point, marked by a very wobbly and marginal foot log. Casual hikers should turn around here.

If determined and a bit masochistic, you can continue on all the way to Durr road, another 2 to 3 miles upstream. The old trail (once a fair-sized road) has been wiped out in most places by floods. There exists a faint but continuous path most of the way, but it will challenge your route finding skills to follow it. There's a lot of scratchy brush and six or so creek crossings, some a bit tricky. The route is not all bad, however; there's a pleasant stretch where an intact portion of the old road passes a small, broken-down cabin in a meadow and some large ponderosa pines.

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Umtanum Creek Canyon bob & barb.jpg
Umtanum Creek Canyon. Photo by Bob & Barb.
Location
Eastern Washington -- Yakima
Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife - L.T. Murray State Wildlife Recreation Area
Statistics
Roundtrip 6.0 miles
Elevation Gain 700 ft
Features
Fall foliage
Wildflowers/Meadows
Wildlife
User info
Good for kids
Dogs allowed on leash
Guidebooks & Maps
Washington State Department of Natural Resources (DNR) Yakima

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Note: the description and driving directions for this Mountaineers Books entry are copyrighted and can't be changed.

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