Day 1: Phelps Cr TH - Lyman Lake via Spider Gap ~ 12 miles

3:30 wake up in Longview, 5 or so hour drive to the Phelps Cr TH, on the trail by 9:30 am. Road to Trinity is fairly good til the last 2 miles, road from Trinity to Phelps Cr is less good but still passable with a regular car. You can do the road walk either at the beginning or end of your hike. If at all possible, do it first. I did it last, and it is not fun!

Phelps Cr Trail is gorgeous, lightly traveled, excellent tread, tons of water available, no bugs, no snow. Beautiful big trees, peekaboo views through the forest of nearby peaks.

When you hit Spider Meadow you start getting views of surrounding peaks. About midway through the meadow there is a big pile of avalanche snow. I got turned around here, thinking I had already passed Phelps Creek and started looking for the trail to Spider Gap. Don't make my mistake, I wasted maybe an hour of time on the snow, in avalanche fall, bushwacking, etc, which took a physical and mental toll later. For whatever reason I thought there was no official trail from Spider Meadow up to Spider Gap, but that is not true. Just stay on the main trail, eventually you'll hit a signed trail junction at the bottom of the headwall, and you'll turn up slope toward the Gap.

The ascent from the meadow to the Spider Snowfield is steep and hot. Bring lots of water. The snowfield is soft and safe on a warm day like the one I did. Don't need any special equipment but poles might make it easier. It's apparently only a mile but it feels longer.

Spider Gap is spectacular, views for miles, and a good place for lunch. You'll have to swat a few deerflies, though, precursor of things to come.

Heading down now onto the Lyman Glacier is definitely steeper. With warm, soft snow a set of poles is all you'll need, but an axe or maybe crampons would make me feel safer. There's a thread at NWHikers.net with excellent info about how to find your way down the snow and onto a trail. Don't go right too soon are you end up cliffed at an overlook. But don't go right too late (like I did) or you miss the main trail and end up having to scramble down scree for hundreds of feet, which is tiring.

Once you find the trail, it's an easy up and down to Lyman Lake, which is beautiful. Camping sites are pretty mosquito-ey, but right at the lake there were hardly any flies or skeeters and it's got lots of warm, shallow areas perfect for a hot day. Gorgeous views!

There were some camping spots up higher on the ridge between upper and lower Lyman Lakes, which were scenic, breezy, and lonely, but you would have had to have gotten your water from upper Lyman lake or earlier, as there is no water right at those sites. Worth it though, for those who plan ahead.

Day 2: Lyman Lake - Cloudy Pass - Image Lake - Miner's Creek ~ 13 mi

On trail about 8 am. Easy jaunt up to Cloudy Pass with great views but again, lots of bugs. Definitely bring a headnet and spray. I was going to go with just a tarp since we had such great weather, but in the end I brought my 16 oz homemade bug tent too, which I was very grateful for - more for flies than mosquitoes.

The hiker shortcut to Suiattle Pass is snow-free, no trouble, but kind of steep and rocky.

Trail to Image Lake has a few blowdowns, nothing big. There are signs of active bears en route to Image Lake with several stripped trees and tons of scat near the miner's cabin ruins.

Image Lake itself was infested with horseflies. The campsites appear to be located over a ridge from the lake itself with great views of Glacier Peak but none of the Lake. I didn't camp here, instead moving on to Miner's Creek.

Hint: Miner's Creek bridge goes right over a 4 or 5 foot deep pool of water in the creek, exactly right for jumping in to neck depth for a great rinse off and cool off on a hot and dusty day. Water is cold but tolerable.

There aren't a lot of good campsites at Miner's Creek - I only saw one good one. I made do with a so-so spot and I didn't see any others sites.

Day 3: Miner's Creek - Middle Ridge/Sheep Driveway - Buck Creek Pass - High Pass Lookout ~ 12 mi

On the trail at 8 am. From Miner's Creek you're up to Middle Ridge through forest then parkland, again lots of flies and mosquitoes. There is an unmaintained but well-known trail there that you can go up about a mile and get big views of Glacier Peak et al. Worth it. Then down to Small Creek, a beautiful stream, then back up to Buck Creek Pass. This is around 6 mi, pretty easy, I was there before 11 am.

Note the official Buck Creek Pass campsites are down a hundred or two hundred feet in elevation next to a little stream. They have better access to toilets and water, but much inferior views, also cooler at night and less breezy, bad for bugs. Try to get the unofficial site visible from the main trail if you can, the one you pass as you first head down toward the official camping area.

After setting up camp at the unofficial campsite just off the main trail - the one still high enough to see sunset and sunrise on Glacier Peak - I set off for a dayhike to the unnamed pass just short of High Pass, described in Doug Lorain's "Backpacking Washington." It's an easy first couple miles, rounding Liberty Cap with ever-better views of Glacier Peak, etc. After a long 2 miles you hit an unnamed saddle and round the north-facing side of a ridge. Then you start to hit snowfields - about half a dozen in all. The first is too steep to safely pass. You have to scramble briefly down and around, which isn't too bad. The next few are safe to pass, with proper precautions. To be safest you should have an ax. I didn't. I had in-step crampons, but it was warm and the snow was soft. In retrospect I was probably taking a risk. The final snowfield which is literally immediately before the final destination is not passable. However you can scramble sort of back and up and reach the ridgeline, which you can then traverse briefly to the pass for the best views. Whoa!!! Icy Triad Lake, mostly frozen over, tons of snow and ice, glaciers, peaks, Glacier peak visible to the right, etc. This is an awesome and worthwhile short day hike if you can do it safely! Thunderheads were starting to build at 1:30 so I headed quickly back, just in time to cover my bug tent with my tarp as the first (and last) raindrops fell. Note there is no water once you start up Liberty Cap, bring what you need from Buck Creek Pass.

Day 4 - Buck Creek Pass - Trinity - Phelps Cr ~ 12 mi (plus 1 mi in a vehicle)

7:30 am start. Long, long, steady downhill with spectacular views of Buck Creek Valley and many snowy, icy peaks and slopes. The undulating portion of the valley can be wet with dew, swarming with flies, and hot and humid as there are a few avalanche slopes that are exposed. There are some ripe huckleberries here, but the flies keep you from hanging around too much. Saw some inbound hunters on the way down.

Once you get to the road, it's a long 3 miles, maybe 3.25 miles from Trinity parking lot to Phelps Creek TH. As mentioned, try to do the road walk on entry rather than exit. I found this a very painful and not fun part of the hike, would have been better at the beginning. However, you probably need 5 days to do it that way (staying the first night in Spider Meadow after a 10 mile hike in including the road walk), otherwise you end up starting off with a 15 mile plus day, and the last 3-4 miles are descending the Lyman Glacier in late afternoon while you're probably pretty bushed, which doesn't sound that safe to me.

Great hike, would be nicer in 5 days than 4 but rarely is the hiking steep and the trails are all well-graded and easy to travel (obviously excepting the Spider snowfield and Lyman Glacier).

Really spectacular scenery. Maybe flies and skeeters will be doing out shortly with cooler weather coming this week. Huckleberries just coming on. One of the most scenic backpacks I've done! I didn't mention all the flowers, just tons of lupine and many other common Cascade flowers on the parks of Buck Creek Pass, Lady Pass, Cloudy Pass, etc.

Thanks to posters at NWHikers.net for their tips on traversing the snowfields at Spider Gap!

My buddy Paul and I planned a few months ago to make the Spider Meadow to Holden through hike together. He was going to meet up with friends spending the week there and I was looking forward to returning to one of my favorite places in the North Cascades. Given the late summer we had been watching careful reports coming out of area to determine if the snow was going to melt off enough to make it possible for us to make the trip. Finally about a week ago the WTA reports and some reports Paul got directly from Holden village confirmed the route looked good (Our backup plan to hike the Lakeshore trail would go back on "the list").

We started out at the Spider Meadow Trail Head on Friday Morning around 11am. I know Spider Meadow is popular, but 10 parties had already signed in before us on that day! The bugs heading up were definitely trying to make up lost time with the short summer. We hit the meadow after a few hours and took a site at the south end. Wild flowers were going strong. Most of the snow was melted out save for a big avalanche flow at the north end of the meadow. Given its depth I'm guessing it probably will not melt out this summer. Some parties arriving late on Friday definitely were scouting around for a while to find a site...

Saturday morning we started out for our big adventure, going from the meadow, over the gap to Lyman and down to Hart. After crossing the avalanche flow, we found the trail and started the ascent to the gap. There were a few trees down and patches of snow on the trail beyond the avalanche flow but nothing too challenging to get over. The views on the way to the gap were as always more spectacular the higher we climbed. The trail to the edge of Spider Glacier/err snowfield was clear and good hiking. It was here when most of the day hikers caught us. There must have been at least 12+ people in 3-4 parties heading up.

At the Glacier edge most folks choose to take the more direct route up directly up the snow. We choose to take the footpaths on the east shoulder and were rewarded with some spectacular views of Phelps Basin and Spider Meadow though we did have to cross multiple patches of snow on the ascent. To this point we had only used hiking poles for additional traction/support. The weather was warm and the snow soft so on the ascent I felt pretty comfortable/had enough traction without additional support. At the Gap we decided it was time for additional traction. I saw other folks with everything from full crampons to mini spikes. I brought my yaktrax. On the ascent to the upper Lyman pools I had both yaktrak pop off and didn't even notice as the snow was soft my feet sunk in an inch or two. We found one of them, but sadly someone else is going to end up hauling out the other one (apologies). Some yahoos were using thick plastic as makeshift toboggan and flying down the hill toward Lyman Glacier. I saw some other folks on the Glacier itself without ropes. Not sure if there is much in way of deep crevasses left in the glacier, but those were risks I wasn't interested in taking. For us on a warm day additional traction on the snowfield wasn't needed, but on a colder day where the snow freezes up, traction support would be a must as the trip down to Lyman is moderately steep in places. Also the rock fall danger over the entire snowfield descending down from the Gap to Lyman should not be under estimated. There were plenty of smaller rocks(baseball size and smaller) half buried/sticking out of the snow. I saw at least one large rock fall across the way on the western side of the basin as we descended. I didn't see anyone wearing helmets in these areas. We moved relatively quickly down and out of the danger zone, but I wouldn't recommend staying in the snowfields for long stretches to other folks. Ok enough with the risk talk. The views down into Lyman are spectacular with the mountains, ponds and icebergs. Unfortunately there was a boat the next day to catch down in Lucerne or otherwise we would have stayed the night in the Lyman area. As it was we moved on and down to Hart Lake. The trail down that way is pretty overgrown with annuals, especially the switch back section leading down from Lyman to Hart, but otherwise well maintained. We met a wedding party heading up to Lyman from Holden on Sunday morning. One way that was 9 miles so quite a day hike. After cleaning up at Holden, the bus took me down to Lucerne and out. A lovely long weekend getaway.

Oh, blueberries, we saw plenty of them, but still several weeks away from being edible. Those hiking in Early September will probably be able to come back with proper purple hands...

Duane and I both had this area of the Glacier Peak Wilderness on our "to do" lists. So we chose a loop route and waited for the weather to cooperate.

Our intent was to start at the Phelps Creek trailhead, hike through Spider Meadow, over Spider Gap, down past the Lyman Lakes, west over Cloudy Pass to the Pacific Crest Trail, then south over Buck Creek Pass, following the Buck Creek Trail all the way to Trinity and the Phelps Creek Campground, concluding with a 3 mile road walk back to the Phelps Creek trailhead. We allowed five days, with several optional side trips: the base of Lyman Glacier, the west side of Lyman Lake, Image Lake, Middle Ridge, and Flower Dome.

Due to our personal schedules and the weather, our first day on the trail coincided with the opening day of deer hunting season. We left the trailhead shortly after a young man carrying a rifle on his pack.

At 3.4 miles is a junction to a trail heading up Leroy Creek. A paper sign was posted on a tree a short distance on that trail. I inspected and found that it warned of a wildfire in the Leroy Creek basin. Unfortunately, the sign was not dated.

We continued on another 1.5 to 2 miles to where Spider Meadow opened up. There were numerous campsites here, mostly occupied by hunters. We chatted briefly, then continued on toward our intended camp at Larch Knob, near the base of Spider Glacier.

At the end of the open meadow, the trail started climbing and we started looking for the trail junction that would lead us west up to Larch Knob. At a campsite along the left side of the trail, we saw a path leading west and took it. It broke out of forest in a jumble of rocks below a cliff, and became too faint to follow. This is NOT the trail to Larch Knob. Back on the main trail, we soon found a signed junction and the real side trail, which climbs steeply along a cliff face to Larch Knob, where there are a few gorgeous camps overlooking Spider Meadow.

We discussed our options for getting to Spider Gap. I had trekking poles but no ice axe. Duane had neither. We had read that the route over the Gap was doable without either, but we were exercising caution. We watched others traveling the glacier route, and by morning had decided to try that route.

Even though Spider Glacier was still partially shaded, it was not icy, and made for a nice ascent to Spider Gap. As the top is a small bowl, with Spider Gap straight ahead. The best route however, is to ascend the lower saddle to the right, then follow an obvious path that contours around to the Gap. (See photo.)

Through the Gap, the views opened up to the entire Lyman Lake basin, and beyond to Bonanza Peak. The north side of Spider Gap is loose rock. The trail soon divides, with one route heading north and maintaining elevation. We had read about the existence of a miner's trail and this appeared to be it. We dropped our packs and followed it a short distance with our cameras, to take advantage of the improved views.

Laden with our packs again, we dropped quickly through the rocks and gravel to a chute of ice. It was here that the trekking poles would come in handy. We were able to avoid the ice most of the way down the chute, taking care to avoid ice hidden beneath a slurry of rocks and mud. But at one point, we had to cross a 20-foot slope of ice. We each used a pole for insurance in making this traverse.

Later in the day, we heard from other hikers that the previous day a man had fallen on the ice and had to abort his trip to get stitches in his badly lacerated arm. Don't underestimate the danger of this section.

Once down in the basin, we spent a considerable amount of time exploring along the shore of the large lake and photographing ice caves at the base of Lyman Glacier. The respective sizes and shapes of the lakes in the basin looked nothing like those on my 2004 Green Trails map (Holden - #113). We had both seen photos of Lyman Lakes before our hike, but we couldn't match our memories to the reality. It was clear that this area had changed dramatically in recent years.

Our research had indicated that there was water within a half mile of Cloudy Pass, but we weren't sure where. We talked to some hikers headed the other direction and confirmed that Cloudy Pass had good camps, with water nearby. So we decided to camp there on night two. By the time we dropped from the upper basin to the north side of Lyman Lake, clouds had come in and a wind was creating a chill. While stopped for a snack, we opted to forego a side trip along the west side of the lake to Lyman Falls. Instead we continued up toward Cloudy Pass.

Approximately a half mile before Cloudy Pass, the trail opens up to a large meadow. The pass is visible in the distance. Before long, the trail passes by a creek that had a good amount of water flowing even in mid-September. We did not stop, and regretted it 15 minutes later.

There were nice camps at Cloudy Pass, but we had passed the only water source. It was only 3:30 in the afternoon, but we wanted to take a side trip to Image Lake the next day, and did not know of another camp site between Cloudy Pass and Trail 785.

Ultimately, we decided to take our chances and press on. It started sprinkling the moment we left Cloudy Pass, and we had second thoughts. But when the rain held off, we moved on. We took the Trail 1279 shortcut, with its pointless ups and downs, to a junction with the PCT south of Suiattle Pass. From there we continued to the junction with Trail 785 and the side trip to Image Lake, without seeing any place to camp.

We decided to continue on 785, and quickly came to an old miner's camp. Hikers coming from the other direction assured us that water was only an eighth of a mile west. The site was buggy, but we were tired and willing to tolerate it.

It rained overnight, and everything was damp in the morning. We lightened our packs and set out through wet bushes on our side trip to Image Lake. On the way there, the fog lifted and we got partial views of Glacier Peak. At Image Lake, two deer grazed lazily, unconcerned about our presence. We climbed above the lake. While Duane explored the ridge above, I feasted on blueberries, which were plentiful, plump, and deliciously sweet.

When we returned to camp, we decided to leave the buggy camp for (hopefully) a better one. We had met some hikers who had camped atop Middle Ridge, a one mile side trip to 6400' with good views. It was early afternoon, and the 6400' camp was 6.5 steep miles away, but we decided to go for it. We broke camp in record time and started walking.

We reconnected with the PCT and headed south, dropping down to cross Miner's Creek then starting up an increasingly steep slope. We were aware of the PCT detour from the 2003 flood damage, and were expecting to see a trail closure at the junction 2.8 miles south of Trail 785 junction. We saw no trail at all; the junction had effectively been erased.

We stopped for water along Trail 789, then continued steeply up to Middle Ridge at 6200 feet. Along the way, we feasted on the plump ripe blueberries that lined the trail, just to keep our energy levels up. A black bear on the slope of peak 6655 appeared to be doing the same.

Once on top of Middle Ridge, we turned east on an unmaintained trail. It was badly rutted at first, over a foot deep. It climbed up the ridge, then contoured around the south face, reaching a broad sloping meadow at 6400' in about a mile. We arrived near dusk to found one tent already there. We hastily set up our tent in the fading light.

In the morning we spoke to the other backpacker. She told us that water was available a few hundred yards away, to the northeast. Sure enough, there were at least two streams coming off the scenic slope of peak 8297. Not knowing this, we had brought enough and didn't bother to walk over there.

As we left 6400' camp, the meadow afforded good views of Glacier Peak, with only a few clouds around it.

As we left Middle Ridge heading south again, we finally saw a sign marking the PCT detour route. We dropped down to Small Creek, stopping for water, then climbed up past slopes of autumn colors to a junction with Trail 799 to Flower Dome. We dropped our packs and took the 0.6 mile side trip to Flower Dome. Being mid-September, there were no flowers, but the views to the north and east were nice. Partially obstructed views to Glacier Peak and the Suiattle River were also pretty impressive.

Back on the mail trail, it was a mere 0.3 mile to Buck Creek Pass, more slopes of blueberries providing autumn colors, and our last fantastic views of Glacier Peak. We left the pass at 2:15 p.m., leaving open the question of whether we would press on to the trailhead 9.6 miles away, or spend another evening on the trail.

From Buck Creek Pass, the downhill miles went quickly. We passed obvious avalanche damage in the first mile. Water was plentiful. We did not stop to see if the camp sites in this area were still usable.

Three miles ahead there was a 100-yard wide swath of downed trees. Trail crews had cleared the route through the avalanche, leaving just a very impressive sight.

We passed up a camp at the crossing of the Chiwawa River and continued to the junction with Trail 1550 (Massie Lake Trail). Finally, after 8.2 miles since Buck Creek Pass, we knew for sure where we were, and how much farther it was. That last 1.4 miles seemed like at least 2.

We arrived at the Phelps Creek Campground after 6:00 p.m., with darkness closing in. I left my pack with Duane and hiked the 3 miles to the car in just 36 minutes, capping off a long and exhausting day, and a very memorable loop hike.

Phelps Pass - Cloudy Pass - Suiattle Pass - Buck Creek Pass - Trinity Loop
3 days, bivvies high on Cloudy Pk and below Pass No Pass

WARNING:
HORSE HAZARD on PCT #789 N. of Middle ridge, below treeline. There is a hoof-sized hole 3' deep, on a slope, this one spot only, no warning. I suppose horses look out for such things, but this looks like a real leg-breaker to me. There were some other cavities around roots; I think subsurface water may have undermined the soil. I put a tall thin stick in it with a flag and ask other passersby to mark it more obviously or stick a log in it.

HUNTING SEASON:
High Hunt is Sept. 15-25 2009.
http://wdfw.wa.gov/wlm/game/seasons.htm
After what happened last year, I got a day-glo hunter-orange pile cap and some other red/orange clothing. A hunter I met remarked that he appreciated it. I recommend this; it's not just safety but a courtesy to hunters and it reminds you to think about hunting season (bear season starts Aug 1, I think). I also like to flag the dog with fluorescent survey tape, cut into festive ribbons. My dogs look like foxes in deep sedge. Be aware that hunters are setting up camps a couple days before High Buck season opens. I spoke several; they really seemed to have an intimate knowledge of the area.

PCT SUIATTLE RIVER CROSSING:
Spoke two PCT parties who crossed Suiattle River. No bridge, log crossing. No info on how it would be at high water. Said trail was OK north of Red Pass, some blowdown.

WATER:
The land looks very dry but water was not an issue, streams flowing everywhere. I treated no water and I'll post a followup if I get sick. I try to get snowmelt as high as possible.

NO FIRES AT UPPER LYMAN LAKES:
There's a routered sign on the bridge at Lyman Lake, and I wonder how anybody can get as far as Upper Lyman Lake without learning that fires at 6000' are destructive, but a large party of greenhorns was gathering what little wood was there, including a big log, for a toy fire that I could see far into the night from Cloudy Peak. I wonder how many years their fire pit will be there?
Please don't do this. A fire is the biggest impact you can make/leave, and once you make a fire, it's like being indoors. Yeah, it's a cool place, but don't expect the snout of a glacier to be warm. If you must make a fire, you can burn it to ash and destroy most traces. End of rant. Sorry.

TRAIL CONDITIONS:
Ripe blueberries are an obstacle to progress.

MEMO:
I asked a horseman; he said it's best to move to the downslope side when you meet horses on a slope, just talk to them so they know you're there. My dog doesn't bark but I'd be concerned about spooking a horse on a slope.

NOTE: This route does NOT go over Pass No Pass.
TRINITY MINE: I think "Discovering Washington's Historic Mines", Vol. 2, Northwest Underground Explorations, covers Trinity and the Miner's ridge area; I'm still trying to get that book. You'll find them interesting.
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DAY 1 Sat 9/12
4:15 LV Seattle
7:30 hiking up Phelps Ck Rd, was offered a ride immediately (thanks Dilleys).
      Ice axe unnecessary on what's left of Spider Glacier. Soft snow, warm sunny day.
      4-star campsite at snout of Spider Glacier overlooking Phelps Basin.
3:30 LV Phelps Pass
      Carried water from Lyman Lake to Cloudy Pass, but plenty good water flowing from meadows on S side of Cloudy Pk.
      Bivvied high on SW rib of Cloudy, 1-person sand patch, no tent sites above pass. 5-star campsite at Cloudy Pass. Magnificent view from here; if you go to Cloudy Pass, make time to gently stroll high onto Cloudy Pk.

Day 2 Sun 9/13
      Ascended Cloudy Pk. Follow ridge as high as possible, then onto ledges on Rt (E). Some Class 3 scrambling; final summit block is Class 3-4, not corgi-friendly, Gwynnie's pride was hurt.
11:00 LV Cloudy bivouac.
12:40 LV Suiattle Pass.
2:15 LV Miners' Ck.
      HORSES, watch for hoof hole below treeline!
4:00 Middle Ridge. My old map shows Middle Ridge Tr going WNW down the ridge, and it looked like a trail went higher as well.
5:55 Buck Creek Pass.
      Spoke hunters who said Massie Lk High Route has serious avalanche debris, big logpiles, near its SE end. Massive avalanches went all the way to the valley bottom and piles massive logs on Buck Creek Trail. You'll be impressed by the avalanches and the trail crews.
      Bivvied in basin below Pass No Pass near several couple hunter parties setting-up for High Hunt, which opened Tuesday 9/15/09, after I'd be gone. Glad I'd bought the flashy day-glo hat. Water and snow still in the basin.

Day 3 Mon. 9/14
Stars went out one by one. Awoke in fog.
10:15 Started SW scramble route on Fortress in whiteout, hesitant and slow. In the fog, I chose the worst possible way. Upper part would be much more pleasant in early season with more snow; it's rocky, loose, chossy in places. No place for a dog but there were no other climbers present. Rockfall is a real issue. We got 100' above the overcast, joy. Everything to the west a sea of clouds. Magnificent summit view.
1:50 Fortress summit.
2:20 Left summit.
4:50 Pass No Pass sheep trails up Helmet Butte, fine bivvy site below pass, don't mess it up.
5:35 LV Pas No Pass basin
6:00 on Buck Ck Trail
      Massive avalanche logpiles opposite Mt. Berge, impassable but for the trail crews.
9:45 Trinity
Just before Trinity, in a 5' wide 5" deep stream, two bull trout were hanging in the current. I could've caught them bare-handed, but they'd come a long way.

Car keys were just where I'd left them, in the ignition of my unlocked car.

Just walking the dog.