It's one of the steepest trails in Olympic National Park, a trailhead sign warns (or boasts). Over 3000 vertical feet are gained in less than 3 miles. With tight switchbacks to no switchbacks, the grade is brutal. Then once you stop climbing, you get to traverse a brushy avalanche chute. When you arrive at Wagonwheel Lake, you realize it's no chrome hubcap-just a tiny forest-ringed pond with nary a good place to soak your feet. But if you can muster some energy to climb the open ridge behind it, this hike goes to four stars, and all that sweat and pain will be worth it.

Despite its grueling statistics, little Wagonwheel Lake gets its fair share of visitors. Rather, its attempted share. Many hikers comprehend 2.9 miles, but not 3200 vertical feet. It's an insane combination, bringing many an unconditioned hiker to his knees and back to the trailhead unfulfilled. If you're ready for the challenge, however, carry on!

Through a lush understory of shoulder-high ferns and salal, ease into the climb. After about 0.25 mile, break out onto a dry ledge and get down to business. Pass an old mining bore on your right (which is more interesting than an old boring miner). Relentlessly, the trail attacks the steep slope in a series of short, tight switchbacks. Through mostly second-growth fir, a few white pines and rhododendrons break the monotony of the forest. The monotony of the climb however, is rarely broken. At about 1.5 miles, nearby a small ledge with a limited view of the valley, enter a cooler forest of hemlock.

The trail now gets even steeper-gone are the switchbacks. Hikers like me who grew up scaling the peaks of the Northeast will feel right at home. We'll also be reminded of how much we don't miss those straight-up-the-mountain trails. After 2 miles and 2 quarts of sweat, the trail miraculously levels out. Now through old-growth fir and hemlock, skirt a steep slope, breaking out onto a brushy avalanche chute. Work your way across slumping tread, enjoying views of Mount Lincoln and the Sawtooth Range.

Reenter cool evergreen forest, cross Wagonwheel's outlet creek, and finally-at 2.9 miles-arrive at the little tarn. A small sunny bench above the lake makes for a good place to collapse. But if you have any oomph left, locate a primitive path taking off from the main trail at the lake. It goes for 0.5 mile straight up the 4700-foot ridge to the north. From its meadows punctuated with silver snags, enjoy a breathtaking panorama that includes the following peaks: Pershing, Washington, Ellinor, Copper, Lincoln, Skokomish, and The Brothers. Even little Wagonwheel looks great from up here.