With spectacular groves of old-growth forest, meadows teeming with wildlife, and views of rugged surrounding peaks, the West Fork Humptulips River bottom is one of the most varied of the rainforest valleys. Devoid of visitors and traversing the edge of one of the largest roadless areas in the Olympic National Forest, this hike offers a true wilderness experience. The river must be forded eight times, but if amphibious adventuring is not for you, 1.5 miles of dry trail (and kid-friendly hiking) can be enjoyed year-round from the northern terminus of this hike at the Campbell Tree Grove.

Because this hike involves eight river fords within a 2.5-mile stretch, consider wearing a pair of old running shoes so you can keep plodding without having to continuously stop to lace up your boots. The terrain and tread between the crossings is generally level, a little brushy in spots, but not rocky or rough. It's a great hike on a late summer's day. The river warms up nicely, assuring no red feet along the way.

Start by heading 1 mile down the Lower Petes Creek Trail on a wide and gentle path, first through a grove of old cedars and hemlocks and then along an old clear-cut. With the sound of the West Fork Humptulips amplifying, the trail leaves the level ter-race, dropping steeply 300 feet to meet the West Fork Humptulips River Trail on the lush river bottom. Head left a short distance, encountering the river and your first ford. Scan the wide gravel bank looking for a shallow and gently flowing crossing.

Once across, a grassy meadow graced with big maples lures you to continue. An old cedar-shingled shelter sits snuggly in the quiet grove. The trail wastes no time fording the river again. With the soothing song of the river constantly in range, head up the remote valley surrounded by rugged peaks of the Colonel Bob Wilderness to the west and Stovepipe and Moonlight Dome to the east. The trail traverses the western edge of the 6000-acre Moonlight Dome Roadless Area, one of the last large tracts of un-logged, unprotected national forest land in the rainforest valleys. Wilderness designa-tion would suit this primeval piece of public property just perfectly.

Through groves of massive spruce and firs, across grassy openings, and through gently flowing ripples, wander up this de facto wilderness valley. At 3.5 miles complete your last ford. Now enjoy 1.5 miles of dry-foot trekking on excellent tread. At 5 miles, reach the river once again: A bridge here was swept away by flooding in 2007. However, an old growth giant has conveniently fallen across the river, providing a temporary span. Use cau-tion and cross the river on it to the Campbell Tree Grove, one of the loveliest stands of old growth in the Olympics. Rest up and enjoy the return wade!