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Copyright © Craig Romano/The Mountaineers Books Cape Disappointment State Park
Take the long and scenic way to Cape Disappointment's North Head Lighthouse. Through a salt-sprayed maritime forest, trace part of Captain Clark's hike on the Long Beach Peninsula. From the high headland that houses the 1898 lighthouse, take in breathtaking views that include thundering waves, windswept dunes, and scores of shorebirds skimming the crashing surf.
There are over 6.5 miles of hiking trails in 1884-acre Cape Disappointment State Park. Once home to Fort Canby, a military reservation established in 1852 (before Washington statehood), the state park was created in the 1950s. Most of its trails are short. All are scenic. The 1.8-mile North Head Trail is the longest, traversing a moisture-dripping old-growth Sitka spruce forest and offering spectacular ocean views along the way. It ties into several other trails, allowing for extended explorations. The trail to North Head starts through a flat marshy area before heading up onto a small rugged ridge. When Lewis and Clark visited this area, the ridge was a headland protruding into the Pacific. After the North Jetty was built in 1917, this marshy forested area formed through accretion (trapped sand and silt accumulation). The land mass and beaches of Cape Disappointment are growing (and they say land doesn't grow!). On what can be a muddy trail, climb above the old coastline on this former headland. Giant Sitka spruces keep you well-shaded, while gaps in the forest canopy offer splendid views down to the "new"beach. In 1.8 miles from the trailhead, come to a parking lot. (Yes, you could have driven to this point-but why? Exercise and nature are good for your body and soul!) Now hike the 0.3-mile trail down to the North Head Lighthouse for one of the finest maritime settings in all of Washington. Return the way you came.
Driving Directions:
From Kelso follow State Route 4 west for 56 miles to Naselle. Turn left (south) on SR 401, proceeding 12 miles to US 101 at the Astoria-Megler Bridge. Continue on US 101 for 11 miles to Ilwaco and the junction of SR 100. Follow SR 100 (it's a loop, bear left) to Cape Disappointment State Park, and in 2 miles turn left into the park. Drive 0.5 mile to a four-way stop and turn right. Pass the entrance station, and in 0.25 mile turn right again. In 0.4 mile come to the McKenzie Head trailhead and park here. Recent Trip Reports
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I hiked the southernmost trail to the Cape Disappointment lighthouse with my two sisters and my pare...
I hiked the southernmost trail to the Cape Disappointment lighthouse with my two sisters and my parents. The trail was steep in places, but in excellent condition. There was no mud, and no potholes. There were also many birds around - I heard hummingbirds Winter Wrens, and robins.
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Mudholes
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What a great way to end the year, a family hike. The weather wasn't the best. It rained on us and it...
What a great way to end the year, a family hike. The weather wasn't the best. It rained on us and it was cloudy, but we still had a wonderful time. We had 2 kids with us and they loved it. It was a long drive but well worth it. We hiked to, two different light houses. Unfortunately, because of the clouds we didn't get the best views of the mountains. The hike to the lighthouses was very short. I think one was .5 one way and one was .25 one way. After seeing the lighthouses we ended up going on some different trails to get extra exercise and let the kids get some energy out. I would recommend this hike for kids as the trails are well maintained (a bit muddy in places) but easy to follow and not difficult. Great for a day adventure and to get out where there is no snow.
Cape Disappointment State Park
— Jul 11, 2012
— Hikemama12
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In short Cape dissapointment was very dissapointing because of the weather. Went all over the park t...
In short Cape dissapointment was very dissapointing because of the weather. Went all over the park though if the weather had been more mild it would have been a great day trip.
Cape Disappointment State Park
— Dec 02, 2011
— Weluv2hike.
Day hike
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Mudholes | Water on trail
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Went to both light houses. We did 4 mile rt to the first light house. We had the hike all to ourselv...
Went to both light houses. We did 4 mile rt to the first light house. We had the hike all to ourselves. The trail is a bit muddy, the hike was great and the views towards the end of the hike were great. The weather was awesome too. We also did another 1mile rt trip walk to another light house in the park, a few people on this hike.
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After a Memorial Day weekend spent backpacking with sideways snow and partially frozen lakes in the ...
After a Memorial Day weekend spent backpacking with sideways snow and partially frozen lakes in the Southern Cascades, warmer weather and sunshine were in order. So I took the lady and pup to Cape Disappointment State Park for the weekend. Don’t let Lewis and Clark’s name for this place fool you—it’s a lovely spot and one of the few places along the WA-state coastline where dogs are welcome. There are ample campsites, too; we made reservations online and our spot was waiting for us.
Left the city Friday after rush hour knowing we’d be setting up camp in the dark. Many others seemed to be on the same track. After our tent was pitched, we took a short stroll along the beach. The stars overhead and ever-vigilant lighthouse rays illuminated the shore. The next day, a yummy Dutch oven breakfast provided fuel for an adventure-filled trek to the Cape Disappointment North Head Lighthouse. While you can drive to the lighthouse, our legs were aching for some hiking. We left our campsite and headed south via the state park roadway, caught up with the Discovery Trail and headed north. The warning signs are correct; this portion of the trail is indeed muddy. That said, we were in beach-bum attire and had no trouble squishing our way through the sodden trail in our Chaco sandals. These lush lowland marshes are dense with vegetation and the pungent aroma of seawater. Bugs were not too bad, although in a couple of spots it’s best to keep moving. Beyond the sea-level estuaries, the trail quickly tacks up slope. Near the crest of the trail, there is an impressive wooden elevated trail and staircase system that protects a small confluence along the ridge tops. The water runs clear and ferns, protected from hikers’ tracks, are able to flourish. Kudos to the team that built this structure. To my surprise, this short jaunt offered considerable solitude—along the trail itself, anyway. We only encountered one other hiking party (headed southbound from the lighthouse). After climbing a few hundred feet, soon we were atop the coastal bluffs. Venturing out of the tree line, our Seattle skin was soon sun-kissed. The wind-battered bluff’s peekaboo views reveal a spectacular view of the coastline looking southward. As for the main attraction, there were plenty of folks who’d arrived at the lighthouse via their autos, but they didn’t detract from the beauty of the lighthouse itself or the panoramic views surrounding its perch. Rather than retracing our steps through the muck of the lowland marshes, we headed back via a small way/game trail just south of the lighthouse that conveniently cuts back down to the campsites. The route is steep, but in good condition and with just a couple of blow-downs to hurdle. Back at camp, we relaxed in our hammock and then played Frisbee on the beach with the pup. Later in the day, we went out to the dunes and gawked at the mouth of the mighty Columbia River. It was very, very windy and I’m quite certain I’ll be picking out sand from places I didn’t know I had for a while. All in all, it was an awesome weekend on the coast. |
![]() Lighthouse at Cape Disappointment State Park. Photo by Bobn'Susie.
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