According to Norse mythology, Valhalla is the beautiful home of heroes slain in battle. Fortunately for snowshoers, this Valhalla is no myth, and visiting it doesn't require mortal combat. Lake Valhalla is a wondrous basin nestled alongside the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) just north of Stevens Pass. Tucked between Mount McCausland and Lichtenberg Mountain, the lake appears remote and isolated. The snowshoe hike to the lake belies that wildness, though, because the trail is generally easy enough for novices and family groups. Although summer hikers can access Lake Valhalla by way of the PCT, snowshoers will find it easier, and safer, to make use of the narrow road leading up Smith Brook valley to the east, and then to traverse cross-country through the head of that valley to the lake basin. This path provides good footing, safety from avalanche danger, and stunning views along its route.

With snowshoes in hand, follow the shoulder of the highway west to the start of Forest Road 6700 (Smith Brook Road). The plows will have left a high, vertical wall of snow between the road surface and the top of the untracked snow, so a climb is generally required. In heavy snow years, this embankment has been known to be as much as 18 feet high, but generally it is less than 10 feet. An ice ax can be handy here, not only for added traction in climbing but to chop out steps. If you don't want to chop your own, bear in mind that by midmorning Saturday on most winter weekends someone will have dug a rough staircase into the bank.

The trail follows the narrow Smith Brook Road through a thin stand of forest along a near-level bench for the first 0.25 mile before beginning a gentle climb up the creek valley. The lower section of the valley has been logged, so the second-growth forest is dotted with clearcut sections for the first 1.5 miles of the hike. Look for birds and small animals where the forests and meadows meet: generally, camp-robber jays (a.k.a. whiskey jacks) flit through the area, and snowshoe hares leave tracks by the edges of the meadows.

At nearly 2 miles, the road switches back twice to gain elevation above the creek bed. Here, in the midst of a sloping clearcut meadow, some nice views open up west toward Mount McCausland and north to Union and Jove Peaks. The route then follows the creek as it banks toward the west.

Just over 2.5 miles up, at 4000 feet, the road again loops through a switchback turn. This is the end of the road, but not the trail. Leave the road at the apex of that switchback, and traverse the open hillside above Smith Brook. Climb slightly while snowshoeing across the valley wall to get near the 4600-foot level in the next mile. There, at 3.5 miles from the trailhead, catch the snow-obscured PCT, cross the head of the Smith Brook valley, and hike another 0.25 mile southwest to the Lake Valhalla basin at 4800 feet. Enjoy a rest at the lake while soaking in the views of Lichtenberg Mountain, Nason Ridge, Union and Jove Peaks, Mount McCausland, Valhalla Mountain, and Skyline Ridge.

Author’s Rating: More Difficult
Some previous snowshoe experience helpful. Some winter survival skills recommended (basic knowledge of avalanche evaluation, emergency shelter construction, etc.). Elevation gain is usually less than 1000 feet with a gradual slope.