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Lakes Trail

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Before May 18, 1980, this was a forest, not a lake. The volcanic eruption that day, however, swept away the forest, and the massive mudflows in the Toutle River Basin created a huge earthen dam that trapped the waters of Coldwater Creek and formed the new lake. This area is still very fragile, and hikers must stay on the established trail-indeed, anywhere you find blast destruction, it's a good idea to stay on the trail as much as possible. The ash-soil is very light and easily disturbed.

Start up the Lakes Trail as it skirts the developed amenities. The path stays well above the high-water mark of the lake, but not so high you can't enjoy the aquatic nature of the trail. Birds flit through the air around the trail, nesting and feeding among the bushes along the shoreline, and feasting on the fish and aquatic insects in the lake.

As you stroll east, you'll pass a trail junction at around 0.75 mile out. The left fork-the Elk Branch Trail-leads up to the Coldwater Visitor Center. You might want to consider this trail on your return, if you still have the energy to climb. For now, though, keep moving east along the shoreline. As you walk, break out your binoculars-you did bring them, right? Pause now and then to scan the opposite shoreline and the slope above it. Elk routinely graze that ridgeline.

The trail reaches the end of the lake at about 3 miles out. Although the trail does continue on up the Coldwater Creek valley, the end of the lake makes a great place to turn around.
Driving Directions:

From Castle Rock, drive about 43 miles east on Highway 504 to the Coldwater Visitor Center and continue 2.2 miles south toward Johnston Ridge. At the bot-tom of the hill, turn left into the Coldwater Lake boat launch and parking area. The trail starts at the east end of the parking lot.

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Recent Trip Reports

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There are 16 trip reports for this hike. See all trip reports for this hike.
Lakes Trail — Jul 08, 2012 — BluesDude
Day hike
Features: Wildflowers blooming
Issues: Overgrown | Mud/Rockslide | Washouts | Water on trail | Snow on trail
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Hiked 8.4 miles (each way)on Sunday to Snow Lake. The Snow level is at the 4500' level as you come ...
Hiked 8.4 miles (each way)on Sunday to Snow Lake. The Snow level is at the 4500' level as you come around the outlet creek to the lake. SNow Lake is thawed out, both campsites are under snow, should be clear in a week or so. This trail is in poor condition from about a mile past the junction of the 230 Trail. The old trail is washed out by 3 or 4 slides. There is an unofficial bypass that switchbackss up and around the slides, and rejoins the trail at about 4000' elevation. Lots of good water all the way in. The heat was killer! No bugs whatsoever.
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Coldwater Lake, South Coldwater Trail, Lakes Trail — Jul 10, 2011 — Riri
Day hike
Features: Wildflowers blooming
Issues: Mudholes | Water on trail
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A beautiful sunny day so I introduced my Wyoming friend Smiley to Mt. St. Helen's and one of the few...
A beautiful sunny day so I introduced my Wyoming friend Smiley to Mt. St. Helen's and one of the few trails open so far this season. See my prior trip report from July 2009 for the specifics of this hike. As before, we started at the Coldwater Lake boat ramp and walked a mile on asphalt down highway 504 to the South Coldwater Trail head. The only current conditions I'll add to my previous report are:

-no bugs
-no people (we only passed half a dozen people and they were all within 3 miles of the Lakes Trail head)
-the trail is entirely snow-free and very dry and dusty on the South Coldwater side
-no water on the South Coldwater Trail, but plenty of flowing creeks and rivulets on the Lake Trail, along with some mud
-the route is marked the entire way, including a new sign showing the intersection of the various routes
-no machete needed, as the path is not yet overgrown
-lots of lupine, paintbrush, penstemons, and daisies blooming
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Lakes Trail — Jul 19, 2010 — Bruce McCredie
Day hike
Features: Wildflowers blooming
Issues: Blowdowns | Overgrown | Snow on trail
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I and four friends from the Mt. St. Helens hiking club out of Longview, WA. started at the Co...
       I and four friends from the Mt. St. Helens hiking club out of Longview, WA. started at the Coldwater Lake boat ramp /picnic area trailhead off the Spirit Lake Hwy 503 in the MSH Monument. The weather was mild and overcast as we hiked 4 1/2 mostly level miles along Coldwater Lake to the jct. w/ South Coldwater trail which would take a person back to the Hwy. for a possible loop trip. We continued straight up the Coldwater Creek basin into the heart of the blast zone. The clouds above were burning off fast as we got a glimpse of Coldwater Butte and "the Dome" towering above. Trail #211 began climbing gradually and becoming difficult to find due to encroaching undergrowth and many crisscrossing elk trails. A very remote area as the trail slowly climbed beneath rock bluffs and standing snags from the 1980 eruption. Finally, at 8 1/2 miles we ascended to very beautiful and blue Snow Lake, truly an oasis in a land of past devastation. We ate lunch here sitting in the intense sunshine, elev.4700'. At these higher elevations, it seems the recovery to a conifer forest is proceeding quite nicely as most of the younger trees were covered by snow May 18, 1980 and are growing up very healthy. Also, huckleberry bushes are covering the surrounding hills.
         We continued 1/2 mile moderately steeply up to Pleasant Pass. Back country camping is allowed here, although no one has camped here in a long time. Good flowing water coming off the snow fields above. We hit the jct. of Mt Whittier Tr. #214 and climbed up a very steep 1/2 mile to the top of the world. Below us was blue Shovel Lake, Panhandle Lake, and still frozen Obscurity Lake. Mt. Ranier and Mt. Adams loomed beyond. The Goat Rocks, still covered with a mantle of snow, stood out to the NE. We had planned to follow the Whittier Ridge trail through to the Boundary Trail #1 and back over Mt. Margaret, then back to Coldwater Lake trailhead, a 21 mile loop, but found too much snow covering the area. Whittier Ridge trail, in my opinion, is very narrow and hard find, especially through the vertical rock walls that it traverses. Very dangerous and not for the faint of heart.
             After reaching the summit of Mt. Whittier, we turned back the way we came, and 14 hours and 20 miles after we started, we made it back to the parking lot. Very tired and thirsty. That bottle of beer I had at home never tasted better.
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Lakes Trail — Jun 20, 2010 — Montañero
Day hike
Features: Wildflowers blooming
Issues: Clogged drainage | Mud/Rockslide | Mudholes | Washouts | Water on trail
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On a cold (45F), wet and very foggy late June Sunday we hiked 3.5 miles from the boat launch to the ...
On a cold (45F), wet and very foggy late June Sunday we hiked 3.5 miles from the boat launch to the large rock slide at the NE corner of the lake. The trail is very wet and muddy in places and there are several dicey crossings of washed out trail locations through small waterfalls. Beautiful hike with plenty of solitude and quiet.
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Lakes Trail — Aug 15, 2009 — Senor Rico
Multi-night backpack
Features: Wildflowers blooming | Ripe berries
Issues: Overgrown | Washouts
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The plan was to do a loop hike from Norway Pass TH, follow the Lakes Trail (#211) to the Coldwater T...
The plan was to do a loop hike from Norway Pass TH, follow the Lakes Trail (#211) to the Coldwater Trail (#230) then follow that to the Boundry Trail (#1) back to Norway Pass and the trailhead. Day 1 was perfect, no one after Norway Pass, and only hoof prints on the Lakes Trail. Lakes Trail is a bit overgrown and some areas the trail is eroded so you don't want to step too close to the edge because there's nothing but air below. Saw plenty of elk; if you don't see them on this trail there's something wrong. Still a lot of flowers out but definitely past the prime time. Lupine mostly gone to seed, but pearly everlastings and fireweed out in full force. Lots of blueberries, huckleberries, salmon berries, and thimble berries along the way. Saw some berry-filled scat that I assumed was bear, but I've never seen a bear in this area (no bear warnings from the ranger station either). Camped at Panhandle Lake after an easy day of hiking.

Day 2, perfect temps for hiking and the fog/clouds cleared so there were endless views of the lakes, Goat Mountain, Rainier as you hike the ridge above Shovel Lake. I'm always so tempted to explore Mt Whittier Trail but was trying to make it to Ridge Camp on the Coldwater Trail so knew there was no time to do so. Ran into two photographers at Snow Lake, the only people I'd see in three days. After decending from Snow Lake the trail immediately became overgrown like I've never seen a trail in 25 years. Birch overwhelming the trail, thick and high thimbleberry bushes so dense you couldn't see your feet or the trail. I didn't even know I was on the trail except every 1/4 mile or so there was a small pink ribbon tied to a shrub. I was making very poor time because I had to step carefully and gingerly on every step never knowing what (besides shrubs) was below my boot. Then I came to a new washout with vertical sides and no boot prints and no markers. I got into the gully okay but fell trying to get up the other side and that sealed it, I was turning around and going back the way I came, kissing the loop idea goodbye. I even had trouble finding the trail once I climbed out of the gully; all the overgrowth looked the same and finding the way I had come was challenging. I finally, literally, stumbled upon the "trail" and within 10 minutes after turning around ran into the two photographers again. They said this indeed was the trail and it was much better than the one they had come in on that was lower in the valley. They offered to help me across the washout, but by then I was done and knew that following that trail for 2-3 more miles would have me arriving at a camp way too late for my comfort level. So they continued on, and I returned to Snow Lake and camped there, content with my decision and very, very happy my fall wasn't worse than it was. The scenery along this section of trail is phenomenal but with the terrible trail condition, I didn't take the time to look up and enjoy it!

Day 3, since I now had extra time, I decided to make it a short day and go only from Snow Lake to Obscurity Lake. I climbed up an elk trail above Snow Lake and overlooked Venus Lake, hiked the ridge to the next valley and found another herd of elk there. Continued onto Obscurity Lake and spent a wonderful afternoon sitting by the brook/stream, watching fish, doing Sudoku, and just enjoying the lake basin. The birch is so thick between the camp and the lake that you can no longer reach the lake without bushwacking through it all. Woke up in the middle of the night, saw a curious toad hopping next to the tent, and stood outside and enjoyed the Milky Way on the almost moonless night.

Day 4 hiked out to the trailhead, still no people until Norway Pass. More elk in the valley and hazy (smokey?) views of Rainier and Adams. The last mile before the car was very hot; the breeze never seems to hit this area.

Overall, I certainly cannot recommend the Lake Trail between Coldwater Trail and Snow Lake. It's very dangerous, and although it certainly needs more foot traffic, I'd not go until some serious trail maintenance is done. It'd be a shame to lose this trail to the birch and thickets but it's so overgrown now I can't imagine the work involved in clearing it out. Actually the birch (I say birch, I think it is but I'm not sure) is taking over a lot of this area, the trails, near the lakes, wherever there is a drop of moisture it is being very opportunistic. The Lakes Trail from Snow Lake and east, however, is so beautiful it should be considered a 'must do' if you like open space, no people, elk, lakes, and endless scenery.
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hummock in coldwater lake - solo steve.jpg
A large hummock is reflected in the glassy surface of Coldwater Lake. Photo: Solo Steve
Location
Lakes Trail (#211)
South Cascades -- Mt. St. Helens
USFS Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument
Statistics
Roundtrip 6.0 miles
Elevation Gain 500 ft
Highest Point 3000 ft
Features
Lakes
Mountain views
Wildlife
User info
Northwest Forest Pass required
Guidebooks & Maps
South Cascades
Green Trails No. 332 Spirit Lake

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Note: the description and driving directions for this Mountaineers Books entry are copyrighted and can't be changed.

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