Its size and splendor make Palouse Falls one of the most scenic and impressive waterfalls in all of Washington, but its location adds even more magic and wonder to its image.

Nestled in a deep coulee, the Palouse River creeps mostly unseen through the scablands north of the Snake River. It is only when you are right at the edge of the river's chasm that you can see and appreciate the deep cut the river makes through the basalt highlands. The same holds true for the falls, which starts in a deep cut and falls into a deeper hole. The falls can't be seen until you are nearly on top of it, but then--wow! A broad, broken plateau of black basalt stretches out to the horizon as you approach the entrance to the state park, when suddenly--boom!--there they are: the thundering waters of Palouse Falls pounding 198 feet into a circular bowl carved out of the cinder-black rock. Winter and spring are the prime times to see the falls. In the dead of winter, the jagged cliffs around the falls are lined with shimmering bands of ice, while in spring, the runoff from snowmelt in the high country has the falls running full bore as a thundering spectacle. Palouse Falls is a photographer's delight. Sunlight streams over the complex canyon walls, birds flitter around the cliffs, picking insects out of the air, and wildflowers color the sandy benches between rimrock bluffs.

From the parking area, a paved trail winds around the overlook area--this is where 98 percent of visitors stay, as it provides wonderful views of the falls with little or no effort.

The local wildlife also hang out here. A large community of yellow-bellied marmots lives in burrows dug just across the safety fence that keeps human visitors from plunging into the deep pool. Resident reptiles also appreciate the smooth sunbaked surface of the paved path on cool days. We've frequently seen bull snakes and the occasional rattler sunning themselves on this path--scuff your boots every other step to warn the serpents before you reach them and they'll quickly and quietly slither off the path.

Once you've enjoyed the views from the easy-access trail, head north on the well-marked dirt trail leading out of the parking lot. In spring and early summer, this path is lined with a veritable rainbow of color. The local wildflower bonanza includes balsamroot, bluebells, yellow bells, buckwheat, three species of desert parsley, lupine, locoweed, vetch, and death camas.

The trail winds through the upper plateau area, skirts an old, seldom-used but still active railroad track, then drops into a small cirque filled with massive sagebrush. Before descending to the banks of the Palouse River above the falls, the trail weaves around--and under--some sage towering 8 to 10 feet. The river then drops through a series of step rapids before reaching the head of the falls (out of sight from this point).

Many trails lace around the upper canyon area for the hiking from here, but they are narrow and have a great deal of exposure (steep cliffs). Don't explore past the head of the falls: There is no safe way to descend to the bottom of the falls, despite the presence of trails that appear to lead that way.

As you return to the parking area, take a moment to notice the nearby railroad tracks. Because trains have to stay on fairly flat tracks (can't have a lot of severe ups and downs, anyway), the rail route was carved into the plateau to avoid the bluffs and ravines. The tracks essentially follow an open-topped tunnel through the basalt plateau. That's amazing engineering in an amazing landscape.