Great Desert Hikes

The desert steppe country of Eastern Washington is the place to hike in April and May - especially this April and May when the Cascades and Olympics are still deep in snow.

Balsamroot sunburst by Alan Bauer.

First time hikers in this region will be surprised and delighted about what this country has to offer: abundant, diverse and colorful wildflowers; lakes, ponds and marshes full of birdsong; sweeping vistas of mountains and rolling hills; intimate canyons with steep basalt cliffs; and through it all the mighty Columbia River. What's more, you can enjoy plenty of solitude.

We've selected six excellent hikes all across Central and Eastern Washington. There are many more to choose from, and we heartily recommend you purchase the guidebook Best Desert Hikes Washington by Dan Nelson and Alan Bauer (Mountaineers Books). It details 100 mostly little-known desert hikes and is the best resource for hiking here. There is also a nice personal website that details flora and fauna, as well as provides links and information about most of the hiking area. 

A few special considerations about hiking in desert country:

• Watch for ticks and snakes, both common to the region.
  
• Bring extra water - on a hot, sunny day you can get dehydrated quickly.
• Even on a sunny day, bring a jacket - it gets quite windy.
  
• Heed private property signs and close gates behind you.
• Be careful not to trample the plants.
• Make sure you have an annual Washington Fish & Wildlife vehicle permit for your car if you plan to hike on state-owned lands. They are available online and from most fishing & hunting retailers.
• Bring a map, compass and navigation skills.
  

Black Canyon

Black Canyon is one of the lonely but wonderful hiking destinations in the L.T. Murray Wildlife Area. Flowers, views, birds and black basalt slopes dominate. Photo by M&S.

Location:  Yakima/Ellensburg area
Distance:  7 miles roundtrip
Elevation:  1750 ft to 3750 ft
Management:  L.T. Murray State Wildlife Recreation Area, Washington Department of Fish & Wildlife
Map:  Washington DNR Yakima

Why Go: The L.T. Murray Wildlife Area offers some of the best desert hiking in the state, and Black Canyon is one of its gems.

It's little-visited, so you'll likely have the place to yourself. Go in late April and May and enjoy wildflowers, a cacophony of birdsong and steep cliffs until you top out on Umtanum Ridge. On a clear day you can see the snowy peaks of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness.

Wildflowers in Black Canyon. Photo by Brad S.

The trail follows an old roadbed. About a mile in there is an old log cabin that you can poke around in, and not too far after the road will split. At this point, you may also encounter some ORVs. Both routes will take you to Umtanum Ridge, but the trail to the right is reported to be better. Enjoy the fabulous views from the top and return.

For More Information:  Best Desert Hikes Washington by Alan Bauer & Dan Nelson (Mountaineers Books). Washington Department of Fish & Wildlife, Yakima field office (509) 575-2760.

Directions:  From I-90 eastbound, take Ellensburg Exit 109 and go right. In less than a mile, turn left on the Umtanum Road - you'll be on this road for 22.3 miles. It will start as pavement, turn to gravel, then return to pavement. At the 22.3 mile mark, turn left on a rough dirt road. In a half mile you will come to the L.T. Murray gate (close it after you enter) and drive less than a mile to the end of the road where the trail begins. In previous years, this last stretch has been driven by a Civic, but conditions do change. An annual Washington Fish & Wildlife permit is required.

Beezley Hills

Want to see wildflowers in abundance? Hike the Beezley Hills near Quincy. Photo by Alan Bauer

Location:  Near Quincy
Distance:  3 miles
Elevation: 400 ft loss and gain
Management:  Beezley Hills Preserve, The Nature Conservancy
Map:  Washington DNR Moses Lake

Why Go: The Beezley Hills is one of Eastern Washington's premiere wildflower hikes. The area is known for its vibrant displays of Hooker's bitterroot, white sulpher lupine and especially the hedgehog cactus.

Oh, the hedgehog cactus. If you get the timing right, you're in for a show! Thousands of 8-12 inch high cactii with bright fuchsia colored flowers. Past Trip Reports indicate the best time to see these is in early May.

The area, owned by The Nature Conservancy, is one of the easier desert hikes

Hedgehog cactus. Photo by Alan Bauer.

to get to. Located not far outside of Quincy, the hike follows an old jeep trail or you can make your own loop trip. Check out the Best Desert Hikes book to learn about the best places to see wildflowers.

For More Information: Best Desert Hikes Washington by Alan Bauer & Dan Nelson (Mountaineers Books). The Nature Conservancy (509) 665--9920. Moses Coulee-Beezley Hills Shrub Steppe Guide.

Directions: From I-90, take Exit 149 and drive north on SR 281 to Quincy. In Quincy, take a right (east) on SR 28. Turn left shortly after the Ace Hardware store on P-NW. This road will become gravel after a few miles and just after 7 miles you will reach the trailhead. There is a sign for "Nature Preserve." Begin your wandering here.

Northrup Canyon

The colors on the cliffs in Northrup Canyon pop out in the afternoon sun. Photo by M&S.

Location:  Near Banks Lake, south of Coulee City
Distance:  6 miles roundtrip
Elevation:  400 ft to 2100 ft.
Management:  Northrup Area Natural Area, Washington State Parks
Map:  Washington DNR Banks Lake

Why Go: Escape the crowds along Banks Lake and head up into Northrup Canyon. It's across from Steamboat Rock State Park (which also offers nice hiking), but still lies within the state park system on the other side of the highway.

A great time to hike this trail is in early morning or late afternoon when shadows are long and colors on the canyon walls come alive. That's also the best time to do some birdwatching. This area is thick with a diverse native forest cover, which provides many a home to a wide variety of bird species. See Seattle Audubon Society's write-up for more on the birds and other flora and fauna in the area.

Wander up the valley as far as you like and admire how the steep walls must have kept the region's historical massive floods from inundating the canyon. There is an abandoned cabin at three miles, which makes a good turn-around point. Or push on another mile to Northrup Lake.

For More Information:  Best Desert Hikes Washington by Alan Bauer & Dan Nelson (Mountaineers Books).

Directions:  From Route 2 in Coulee City, take Route 155 north along Banks Lake to mile 18.9. Turn right at a sign for Northrup Canyon Natural Area and proceed less than a mile to the trailhead.

White Bluffs - Hanford Reach

The White Bluffs follow along the last free-flowing stretch of the Columbia River. Photo by Alan Bauer.

Location:  near the Tri-Cities
Distance:  8 miles
Elevation:  300 ft gain
Management:  Wahluke National Wildlife Refuge, Washington Department of Fish & Wildlife
Map:  Washington DNR Priest Rapids

Why Go: This hike offers one of the best vistas anywhere in the state - prime views of the last free-flowing stretch of the Columbia River. It's proximity to the Hanford Nuclear Reservation kept the dam-makers at bay, and that is fortunate.

You can hike the White Bluffs north or south from different trailheads (see Best Desert Hikes). We describe the northern route here for two reasons: because it follows the bluffs for four miles 400 feet above the mighty Columbia; and because fires in 2007 denuded the southern route of vegetation. What's more, to the east of the northern route are glimmering sand dunes that you can peel off the trail and climb.

The path from the trailhead starts out faint but grows stronger once you're past the grove of cottonwood trees. As with most desert hikes, wildflowers are abundant in spring - you'll enjoy those if you can take your eyes off the river. Four miles in you will come to signs telling you to Keep Out. With Hanford nearby, it is wise to obey any signs you see.

For More Information:  Best Desert Hikes Washington by Alan Bauer & Dan Nelson (Mountaineers Books). U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service - Wahluke Unit (509) 375-0196.

Directions: From I-90, drive to the east side of the Columbia River (across from the town of Vantage) and take Exit 137 onto SR 26. At the first intersection, go south on SR 243 for just over 14 miles. Turn right on the Mattawa Highway (signed 24 SW), which will save you miles of going out of your way. This will intersect in another 14 miles with SR 24. Go left/straight on this highway and in a short while turn right on a road signed "Wahluke National Wildlife Refuge." There's a huge solar-powered gate that is closed between 2 hours before sunrise to 2 hours after sunset. Don't get caught inside! You will need an annual Washington Fish & Wildlife permit to park here.

Kamiak Butte

Kamiak Butte near Pullman provides a stunning vista of the Palouse. Photo by Kim Brown.

Location:  near Pullman
Distance:  3.5 miles
Elevation:  900 ft to 3600 ft
Management:  Whitman County Parks 

Why Go: This is a fabulous place to get an almost bird's eye view of the lovely rolling hills of the Palouse.
Map:  Washington DNR Pullman

Kamiak Butte is a commanding feature in a sea of wheat. It also hosts a rich ecosystem, with stands of pine, fir, larch and cedar which provides habitat for a variety of birds and mammals.

It's a county park and is well-maintained. The 3.5 mile Pine Ridge Loop offers the best sampling of everything the park has to offer. The summit of the butte is at 1.5 miles from the trailhead and offers the best views of the area.

The gate is closed at dusk, so you should either hurry out after sunset or choose to camp in the park's campground.

For More Information:  Best Desert Hikes Washington by Alan Bauer & Dan Nelson (Mountaineers Books). Whitman County Parks (509) 397-6238.

Directions:  From Pullman, take State Highway 27 north 11 miles.  Turn left on Clear Creek Road for a half mile. Turn left on Fugate Road (Road No. 5100) and travel .5 mile to Kamiak Butte County Park Road (Rd. No. 6710) to the park entrance on the left. The upper trailhead is at the wooded park at the end of the road.

Escure Ranch

It's not all lonely sagebrush at Escure Ranch - there are small ponds and lakes that dot the landscape in this very remote hike. Photo by Alan Bauer.

Location:  South of Spokane
Distance:  8 or more miles
Elevation:  about 250 ft
Management:  Rock Creek Management Area, Bureau of Land Management
Map:  Washington DNR Rosalia

Why Go: It's easy to envision John Wayne on Escure Ranch in its heyday. Now all that remains are a few old buildings and relics.

Still, you'll easily be able to imagine settlers trying to eke out a living in this lonesome desert prairie.

But that's not the only treat. The trail leads through several small canyons with and goes past numerous ponds and wetlands. All of this water is a magnet for birds and their songs will be with you for your entire journey.

The trail begins by crossing Rock Creek and leads you through the old ranch. You can do a big figure eight, or stay right at the forks for the best views. You will pass through many gates - please close them after you. For a more detailed route explanation, be sure to consult the Best Desert Hikes book.

For More Information:  Best Desert Hikes Washington by Alan Bauer & Dan Nelson (Mountaineers Books). There is a short write-up on the ranch here and a printable topo map here.

Directions:  From I-90, take Exit 245 and go south 8 miles on SR 23 past Sprague. Turn right on Lamont Road; it will bend left and turn into Revere Road at 2.6 miles. At 8 miles, go right on Jordan-Knott Road, then another 2 miles until you reach Rock Creek Management Area on your right turn. Drive to the parking lot.