Spider Meadows #1511
Oct 15, 2000
- Type of Outing
- Day hike
- Read More in our Hiking Guide
- Hike: Spider Meadow and Phelps Basin
- Region: Central Cascades -- Stevens Pass - East
- Agency: Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest, Wenatchee River Ranger District, Leavenworth
- Trails: Spider Meadows (#1511)
- Avg Rating: 4.13
- Be Aware Of
- Snow on trail
Wow, I really wish my schedule wasn't so restrictive. Due to my restraints, I had to make the 17 mile trip to Spider Gap a day trip! I actually fared quite a lot better than I thought I would, all things considered. Anyway, it's raining heavily now, probably snowing in the high country. So you can't do this hike. Ha ha ha. It appears that our somewhat over-extended autumn is now over. But what a way to end the season!
I started the day by getting up at the god forsaken hour of 4:30 in the morning to get to the trailhead soon after sunrise. I knew it would be a long day. After making good time over Stevens and up the Chiwawa River in early morning light, I hit the trail. This trail starts out as an old mining road and is very easy the first 2.5 miles to the Glacier Peak Wilderness Boundary. The remaining 2.5 miles from here to Spider Meadow seem more like 3.5. They're not hard, just take forever.
Entering Spider Meadow after a long five miles in deep montane forest is like abruptly waking from a long sleep. The sudden openness is striking. As described in guidebooks, the imposing cliff at the end of the valley looks impenitrable. Just continue on. There is plenty of good camping in Spider Meadow. The many sites available just as you enter the meadow are most popular (and disgustingly mobbed). There are a number of other sites in the upper meadow that afford a little more privacy. Undoubtably the best site is about halfway up the valley headwall at a place called Larch Knob. This single site has a fantastic view of the U-shaped valley and surrounding mountains. Don't count on getting it though as there is only one site.
The trial re-enters forest at the upper end of Spider Meadow and resumes climbing moderately. I knew the trail to Spider Gap split with that to Upper Phelps Basin at some point. I was a little confused as it appeared that I was going into the basin. The trail waits longer than expected to split. Don't worry, it's well signed.
Now climb very steeply on an old miners trail (I really gotta hand it to the nutcase who pioneered this route). The grade commonly exceeds 25 percent, maybe even 30. Even though it zig-zags magically between, under, and over cliffs, it is always reasonably safe, well built, even wide. Soon enough, the flat ground of Larch Knob is reached. If the choice campsite on the knob itself is taken, you might be able to find a space in the surrounding area, even on the reasonably flat lower section of Spider ""Glacier.""
Glacier is in quotes because I seriously doubt this year round snowfield is still active. It's only maybe 200 feet wide is some spots and appears to have melted all the way to the ground right in the middle.
I was able to manage the snowfield in standard hiking boots and one trekking pole. An ice axe would be nice but not necessary. I was by myself and the snow was fairly hard (but not icy) and I felt reasonably safe. As soon as the gap is reached you can look up and see the amazing ice devastated austere landscape spread before and above you. I believe this is as close to the realm of the mountaineer that I have ever been.
And good lord was it cold! Most of the hike had been chilly, but here was just plain ass-freezing cold! A very light breeze was blowing and making it even a little worse. Three or four inches of fresh snow remain on the north side of the pass from some time last week. The view includes a beautifully framed shot of Dome Peak directly north. Chiwawa Mountain, the toe of Lyman Glacier and its adjoining lakes are also visible. I really wish I had the time and energy to continue down there, but the day was long enough already. A high imposing spur of Chiwawa Mountain rises directly west of the pass. The neck is severely strained peering up its sheer cliffs.
The trip down was uneventful except for the realization that this could very well be my last foray into the mountains this season. Maybe, I'll take up ice climbing...
This hike is not recommended for everyone. It's extremely strenuous to do as a day hike and even if you do plan lots of time, there's still the difficulties of the trail and ""glacier"" to Spider Gap. The meadows by themselves though would be a fantastic destination for anyone if they weren't so damned crowded. Go on a weekday and it should be ok.
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