Aurora Divide #59,Aurora Ridge #46,Happy Lake Ridge #58

Spent three lovely, lonely days hiking the 26-mile route, one-way, from the Happy Lake Ridge trailhead to the Aurora Ridge trailhead. Didn't get started until after 4:00 PM the first day, but made it to Happy Lake in time to pitch my tent prior to dark. The climb to the lake from the TH is strenuous with a full pack, but the trail in this portion is in fine shape. A nice, cool wind kept me from getting overheated on the way up. The short spur trail down to Happy Lake presents no difficulties either. Mosquitoes were a continuous problem, and had accumulated into roving clouds at Happy Lake. The following day, I hoisted pack and ventured 12 miles to Sourdough Camp, beneath the mountain of the same name. Between Happy Lake and the junction with the Aurora Divide trail, the route assumes an up-and-down, roller-coaster quality that continues nearly all the way to the Soleduck Road. It also becomes narrower and brushier, resulting in a soaking of my pants from the thick vegetation (as a result of a morning shower). Soon after leaving the Happy Lake Ridge trail for the Aurora Divide trail, a meadow is crossed where the tread is essentially gone. Lack of maintenance and mountain beaver work appear to be the culprits. The tread resumes on the opposite side of the meadow. This minor difficulty warns of things to come, however, as one later ventures onto the Aurora Ridge trail (the last, but longest, leg of the trip). Between Lizard Head Peak and the low saddle just east of Sourdough Mountain, expect some tough going. Only a few trees, all easily crossed, are over the trail, but the tread weakens substantially. This section reminds of a slightly lower and slightly less scenic version of the Skyline Route on the Queets/Quinault Divide. I lost the trail twice for about 5 minutes each time -- once in a gorgeous beargrass meadow on the eastern leg of the Aurora Ridge trail, then again later where the trail crosses Aurora Springs. Only minor difficulties really, though necessitating some investigative work and map review. A compass should be handy, though I didn't have to use mine at any point. Although one can use the ridgeline as a rough guide for direction, keep in mind that the trail occasionally drops away down the slope (e.g., at Aurora Peak). Expect sore ankles from traversing the steep southern slope of the ridge, where only the slightest evidence of tread is present. Deer and bear may be the only entities keeping this section from vanishing completely. There were sporadic trickles of water across the trail in the 9 or so miles between Happy Lake and Aurora Springs, but don't count on them. Fill up before leaving Happy Lake, and again at the springs. I drank close to three liters of water in this 9 miles, and would have needed more on a hot day. One could camp on a knoll nearby the springs, but it's a small site and not entirely level. Many mosquitoes here, too. After finding my way past Aurora Springs, the trail improves. I continued past the junction of the Aurora Creek trail and climbed the shoulder of Sourdough Mountain. Passing below the summit, an old, old sign that is difficult to decipher marks a half-mile spur trail to the top of the mountain (excellent views of the North Fork Soleduck's expanse of ancient forest here, complementing other such views seen earlier in the trip). This spur immediately enters a meadow with thick vegetation, which is the (former') site of Sourdough Camp. Although listed as an official campsite by the Park Service, it looks as if it receives very little use. A long-collapsed shelter is here, as well as a decaying privy melting into the ground. Not much of a place to pitch a tent, so I wedged mine into the old shelter frame. A short path behind the shelter leads to a tiny spring that is barely large enough to obtain water from. Not sure if it lasts through the summer, though. Bear scat everywhere. The final day found me mostly in dark, somber hemlock forest along the rolling ridge. I took a quick side-trip to pretty Eagle Lakes. (Females: please continue to instruct hikers of your gender that leaving toilet paper flowers in the woods after urinating is NOT acceptable; don't get me started on either gender's defecation practices.) The final mile or two of trail prior to reaching the Soleduck Road, after entering second-growth forest, is again overgrown, this time with blackberry and some nettle. All in all, this was an immensely fun, challenging trip. Just another precious corner of our beloved Olympic Mountains. I saw a grand total of two people between Happy Lake and the Soleduck Road (on a summer weekend, no less!), so solitude is readily available. Make doubly sure that you have plenty of water with you at all times.