Great Desert Hikes

The desert steppe country of Eastern Washington is the place to hike in May. In spring, the steppe is warmer, drier, brighter and under much less snow than the Cascades and Olympics.

Balsamroot sunburst by Alan Bauer.

First time hikers in this region will be surprised and delighted about what this country has to offer: abundant, diverse and colorful wildflowers; lakes, ponds and marshes full of birdsong; sweeping vistas of mountains and rolling hills; intimate canyons with steep basalt cliffs; and through it all the mighty Columbia River. What's more, you can enjoy plenty of solitude.

We've selected nine excellent hikes in Central and Eastern Washington. There are many more to choose from, and Mountaineers Books has provided WTA with the content to their guidebook, Best Desert Hikes Washington by Dan Nelson and Alan Bauer. We have the hiking details and driving directions for 100 mostly little-known desert hikes. Like what you see? Consider purchasing the book for your library!

A few special considerations about hiking in desert country:

• Take tick prevention measures, and know how to remove them safely.
• Learn how to watch for and avoid rattlesnakes on the trail.
• Bring extra water - on a hot, sunny day you can get dehydrated quickly.
• Even on a sunny day, bring a jacket - it gets quite windy.
• Heed private property signs and close gates behind you.
• Be careful not to trample the plants.
• Make sure you have a Discover Pass for your car. Most of the hikes are on state land and require one.
• Bring a map, compass and navigation skills.

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Hikes Near Yakima and Ellensburg

Black Canyon

Black Canyon is one of the lonely but wonderful hiking destinations in the L.T. Murray Wildlife Area. Flowers, views, birds and black basalt slopes dominate. Photo by M and S.

Location: Yakima/Ellensburg area
Distance: 7 miles roundtrip

The L.T. Murray Wildlife Area offers some of the best desert hiking in the state, and Black Canyon is one of its gems.

It's little-visited, so you'll likely have the place to yourself. Go in late April and May and enjoy wildflowers, a cacophony of birdsong and steep cliffs until you top out on Umtanum Ridge. On a clear day you can see the snowy peaks of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. For more information, including driving directions, visit WTA's Hiking Guide.

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Umtanum Canyon

Umtanum Creek Canyon begins to come alive in early spring. Photo by David Hagen.

Location: Yakima/Ellensburg area
Distance: 6 miles roundtrip

If the possibility of seeing big horn sheep isn't reason enough to go, then how about spring wildflowers (peaks in May), a desert creek, beaver activity and solitude? This is truly a desert paradise.

The trail starts with a suspension bridge over the Yakima River and winds up a canyon. The creek is a big draw for wildlife, and about two miles up the trail you may just run into the resident herd of big horn sheep. But that's not the only attraction. Keep your eyes on Umtanum Creek for beavers; they've been quite busy along here building dams. The trail is well-maintained for the first three miles but becomes brushy thereafter. It also criss-crosses the creek several times, so you may opt to turn back at this point. Or camp! This is a nice place to do an overnight. Learn more about Umtanum Canyon in WTA's Hiking Guide.

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Whiskey Dick

Hedgehog cactus really is this pink! Photo by jhiker.

Location: Yakima/Ellensburg area
Distance: 8 miles roundtrip

This hike provides the ideal mix of wildlife and wildflowers - especially if you take to the trail in early May. For the flowers, think fluorescent pink hedgehog cactus, raucous fields of Hooker's balsamroot and so many other wildlflowers that you'll need to bring a field guide.

The wildlife is a bit more secretive than the flowers, but especially early and late in the day you may see (or hear) coyotes, elk, deer and a ton of birds.

Be sure to keep an eye on Trip Reports to see when the flowers are peaking and then head out to this gorgeous part of the state. Learn more about the hike and how to get there in WTA's Hiking Guide.

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Hikes Near Wentachee, Quincy and Grand Coulee

Beezley Hills

Balsamroot and phlox decorate the desert floor in the Beezley Hills. Photo by Bob Griffith.

Location: Quincy area
Distance: 3 miles roundtrip

The Beezley Hills is one of Eastern Washington's premiere wildflower hikes. The area is known for its vibrant displays of Hooker's bitterroot, white sulpher lupine and especially the hedgehog cactus.

Oh ... the hedgehog cactus. If you get the timing right, you're in for a show! Thousands of 8-12 inch high cacti with bright fuchsia colored flowers. Check these out in early May.

The area, owned by The Nature Conservancy, is one of the easier desert hikes to get to. Located not far outside of Quincy, the hike follows an old jeep trail or you can make your own loop trip. Check out WTA's Hiking Guide for more details from Best Desert Hikes Washington by Alan Bauer and Dan Nelson.

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Ancient Lakes

A waterfall in the desert? You bet. Plus little lakes, birds and wildlife. Photo by Galiwalker.

Location: Quincy area
Distance: 4 miles roundtrip

Waterfalls in the desert. Deep coulees. Small lakes and large lakes. Sagebrush. Wildflowers. A cacophony of bird songs.

There are many reasons to visit Ancient Lakes in the Quincy Wildlife Recreation Area. Spring is really the best time - sunny and warm weather and an opportunity to pitch your tent by a lake are a few more.

Start your hike on an old jeep trail past the gate at the end of the road. Just short of a mile, you will curve off the trail to the left toward Ancient Lakes (going straight will take you to Dusty Lake, another wonderful destination). This trail will take you into the coulee and to the lakes.

Make sure to save time to explore the entire lake basin. This wetland area provides habitat for many species of birds and mammals. And it's entertaining to watch the swallows flit in and out of the basalt cliffs. A map would provide some off-trail explorations as well. See our Hiking Guide for more info on this hike.

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Northrup Canyon

A hiker explores little-known Northrup Canyon, across the highway from Steamboat Rock State Park. Photo by hikingqueen.

Location: Grand Coulee/Banks Lake area
Distance: 3 miles roundtrip

Escape the crowds along Banks Lake and head into Northrup Canyon. It's across from Steamboat Rock State Park, but still lies within the state park system on the other side of the highway.

A great time to hike this trail is in early morning or late afternoon when shadows are long and colors on the canyon walls come alive. That's also the best time to do some birdwatching. This area is thick with a diverse native forest cover, which provides many a home to a wide variety of bird species. See Seattle Audubon Society's write-up for more on the birds and other flora and fauna in the area.

Wander up the valley as far as you like and admire how the steep walls must have kept the region's historical massive floods from inundating the canyon. There is an abandoned cabin at three miles, which makes a good turn-around point. Or push on another mile to Northrup Lake. See our Hiking Guide for more information, including driving directions.

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Tri-Cities Area - North

White Bluffs - Hanford Reach

The White Bluffs follow along the last free-flowing stretch of the Columbia River. Photo by Alan Bauer.

Location: Tri-Cities area
South Slope Distance: 10 miles roundtrip
North Slope Distance: 4 miles roundtrip

This hike offers one of the best vistas anywhere in the state - prime views of the last free-flowing stretch of the Columbia River. It's proximity to the Hanford Nuclear Reservation kept the dam-makers at bay, and that is fortunate.

You can hike the White Bluffs north or south from different trailheads. We suggest the northern route for two reasons: because it follows the bluffs for four miles 400 feet above the mighty Columbia; and because fires in 2007 denuded the southern route of vegetation (although some of that is now coming back). What's more, to the east of the northern route are glimmering sand dunes where you can peel off from the trail and climb. Check out WTA's Hiking guide for many more details about the White Bluffs North trail as well as the South trail.

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Palouse Falls

Palouse Falls. Photo by Scott Williams.

Location: Tri-Cities area
Distance: 2 miles roundtrip

One of the great delights of Washington's desert steppe country are the waterfalls. They are so unexpected in this arid environment.

Palouse Falls is one of the most impressive, dropping 198 feet into the circular pool below. And yes, you can see this sight with just a short walk from your car, but why not get a different view? The trail winds along the plateau through a springtime riot of wildflowers and joins up with the Palouse River above the falls. Along with the waterfall and river, a special treat of this area is a large colony of yellow-bellied marmots. Learn more about Palouse Falls in WTA's Hiking Guide.

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Eastern Washington - Spokane and Pullman areas

Kamiak Butte

Kamiak Butte near Pullman provides a stunning vista of the Palouse. Photo by Kim Brown.

Location: Pullman area
Distance: 3.5 miles roundtrip

This is a fabulous place to get an almost bird's eye view of the lovely rolling hills of the Palouse.

Kamiak Butte is a commanding feature in a sea of wheat. It also hosts a rich ecosystem, with stands of pine, fir, larch and cedar which provide habitat for a variety of birds and mammals.

It's a county park and well-maintained. The 3.5 mile Pine Ridge Loop offers the best sampling of everything the park has to offer. The summit of the butte is at 1.5 miles from the trailhead and offers the best views of the area. See our Hiking guide for more info on this hike.

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Escure Ranch

It's not all lonely sagebrush at Escure Ranch - there are small ponds and lakes that dot the landscape in this very remote hike. Photo by Alan Bauer.

Location: Pullman area
Distance: 8 miles roundtrip

It's easy to envision John Wayne on Escure Ranch in its heyday. Now all that remains are a few old buildings and relics.

Still, you'll easily be able to imagine settlers trying to eke out a living in this lonesome desert prairie.

But that's not the only treat. The trail leads through several small canyons and goes past numerous ponds and wetlands. All of this water is a magnet for birds and their songs will be with you for your entire journey.

For a detailed route explanation, consult the WTA's Hiking Guide with content from the Best Desert Hikes Washington book.