Trip Reports

Taking advantage of the minus tides, we spent 3 days on the beaches near La Push. Day 2 was dedicated to hiking to Hole-in-the-Wall. The weather was far from ideal with strong winds and frequent rain showers but in between these unpleasant weather patterns, we delighted in the sun breaks and even were treated to several rainbows.

Our biggest concern was the crossing of Ellen Creek about half way to Hole-in-the-Wall. When we reached Ellen Creek, we weren't sure what would be the best way to cross. My husband decided to try finding logs upstream while I chose to remove my shoes and socks and find the shallowest part to wade across. Ellen Creek was calm and smooth upstream but looked very deep. The lower part appeared very swift almost making me dizzy just looking at it rushing past. Fortunately, it was close to low tide and the mouth of the creek didn't appear to be very deep so that was where I headed. By now my husband had already safely crossed the logs (though he did say they were wet and slippery and I would not have liked crossing on them) and was waiting for me on the other side. The water was only ankle deep though splashed up to my knees as I walked. The water was swift and as I looked down and saw 5-inch diameter rocks rolling past me and the rushing water making me dizzy, I froze and clung to my walking pole. Then I realized looking down was a bad idea so I changed my focus to the other side where I was headed and soon I too was standing safely on dry sand. On the way back we both just crossed at the mouth; it was no big deal the second time through.

After exploring the tide pools and walking through Hole-in-the-Wall, we climbed the overland trail to get a nice view of the sea stacks and beach below.

It was a beautiful rainy day when we started out around 2 PM -- almost no one was out due to the weather. Still, we had an easy walk from Rialto Beach to Hole in the Wall. The tide wasn't a problem for us as we'd timed it well, and while it was raining it wasn't dangerously stormy. Climbing the trees to cross Ellen Creek was fairly easy -- they are slippery, but they're also really wide. The beach is a mix of pebble gravel, larger rocks, and sand. It's harder going than most trails, but it does have the arguable virtue of being almost entirely flat. We didn't see much wildlife due to the weather, just two gulls and a raven. Once you get to the tidepools on the far side of Hole in the Wall, though, there are starfish and anemones.

Unfortunately, some of the trash from the Japanese tsunami has started to come in. We'd read about that on CoastSavers and come prepared. My companion and I packed out about half a lawn and leaf bag of Styrofoam and plastics out with us, along with some random pieces of clearly American litter. There was almost nothing on the Rialto side of Hole in the Wall, but it gets worse further north where fewer folks hike.

Still, a beautiful hike, and we were happy to help preserve such a gorgeous place.

This report is about a 2-night coastal backpacking hike starting at Rialto Beach and north to Sand Point (with the following points of interest we went through or got really close to: Hole-in-the-Wall, Chilean Memorial (passed nearby), Cape Johnson, Cedar Creek Campsite, Kayostia Beach, Norwegian Memorial (passed nearby), Yellow Banks, Sand Point, and Ozette Ranger Station).

Highlights: Awesome coastal scenery; sea stacks; animals (eagles, falcons, seals, otters, raccoons, starfish, crabs, etc); oceanfront lodgings and beautiful sunsets (on a clear day).

Lowlights: very difficult, slippery terrain; extremely steep, muddy overland trails; dangerous tides

Words of WARNING: the terrain on this hike is very difficult and it's essential to carry a tide chart and topo map to plan out your crossings appropriately. Except for a few 1-mile-long stretches, most of this hike is NOT a beach. Most of the time you are lucky if you get to travel on gravel or pebbles. Often times you have to navigate wet and slippery headland rocks, mudslides, slippery fallen trees. You should allow for additional time in case of unforeseen obstacles. A few of the most treacherous headland outcroppings have steep overland trails but most of those have to be climbed using rope (if it's there). Some areas are only passable at low tide with no overland trails available at all.

We started the hike by parking one car at the Ozette Ranger Station parking lot (where we were also able to obtain our overnight permits and rent the required bear canisters). We then drove towards Forks and turned onto the La Push/Mora road (Once on the La Push road, watch carefully for the signs for Rialto; they're placed poorly and a bit confusing. Basically you need to turn right at the first gas station/campsite looking area). We parked the second car at the Rialto Beach parking lot and set off.

The trek to Hole-in-the-Wall is quite easy. We had arrived at the parking lot right at the crest of the tide and were expecting the tide to have receded enough to pass the Hole but it was still too high (first lesson: the tide chart/topo map combo should only be used for estimation, it does not necessarily guarantee that some place will or won't be passable at a given time). Instead of waiting we took the fairly easy overland trail and continued on. The beach now had more rocks and gravel than sand. The easy part was over.

We continued on for another 1.5 miles or so (to around the point right south of Cape Johnson) and decided to stop for lunch. After that we kept going with the terrain getting more difficult with lots of big rocks to scramble over which made it slow-going. This lasted for about 2.5 miles. At that point we started hurrying to make it in time to get around Cape Johnson and the next point as the tide was slowly starting to rise. Specifically that next point has a vertical wall coming straight into the ocean that would be impassible at higher tides. After that slightly easier though still pebbly terrain followed for the next 1.5 miles until we reached the first roped overland trail. This one was the easiest rope to use.

The beach got slightly easier but there were lots of mudslides and fallen trees that obstructed the way and took time to get around, over, or under them. The ground was still very soft and easy to sink into. Another mile and another roped overland trail. Then more pebbles and small rocks and a bit of sand till we got to our campsite at Cedar Creek. The campsite here is really nice with great views of the ocean. The map we had marked it slightly incorrectly. Make sure to continue on past the creek mouth. It should be right on the low bluffs.

The next morning we started off a bit later than we had hoped, the tide started coming in, and it did not look like getting around the headland would be possible. This was later confirmed by other members of our party who tried getting around only to find themselves having to turn back around 3/4 of the way around. We went straight for the overland trail. The climb up used to have what looked like a nice wooden ladder. However the steps were no longer attached to one of the supporting ropes and instead hung loosely from the other. Fortunately there was yet a third rope you could use to climb up the slipper slope. Going down on the other side was yet again challenging but doable.

Afterwards there was a 1-mile-long stretch of sandy Kayostia Beach. Enjoy it while it lasts (that is, until the abandoned Norwegian Memorial trailhead). What follows for the next 4 miles is an unending length of steep cliffs, boulders, sharp rock, and slippery inter-tidal rock bed that extends up to 500 feet away from the cliffs. We crossed it at low tide. At high tide there are plenty of sections that would not be passable. Because of the difficult terrain it still took hours and hours to cross. This was certainly the most difficult part of the whole trip.

Fortunately after that you are greeted with a long stretch of nice sandy beach at Yellow Banks. One more headland crossing; while getting around still seemed doable we opted instead to climb through the hole just to be safe considering the now-rising tide. After that another nice stretch of sandy beach to South Sand Point where we camped for the night. The campsite entrance is at the unmaintained trailhead (clearly marked) to Erickson Bay (on Ozette Lake). The campsite is quite nice with 8 good spots. Don't freak out that the water in the nearby creek is a bit reddish-brown. It supposed to be colored thus by the leaves and cedar. It's quite drinkable once treated.

The last day was easy with a brisk way to the tip of Sand Point and the 3 miles of boardwalk (fortunately it wasn't that slippery) to Ozette Ranger Station.

What a spectacular experience. My son and I hiked to Hole in the Wall on the north coast of the Olympic Peninsula, 2 miles north of Rialto Beach. The weather was awesome and we were able to sleep out under the stars without the rainfly on. We went down to catch a very low tide and photograph the sealife in the tide pools and the sea stacks. We enjoyed a wonderful fire in the evening and arose early in the morning to catch the sunrise and low tide. There will be another low tide (the last until next year) on June 15th and 16th around 8:00 in the morning. I would highly encourage you to make the trek, especially if you can stay over night.
HalfCenturyHiker

We arrived to the parking lot at the trail head around 11am on a sunny beautiful day. Not a cloud in the sky, and little to no wind. We never really found a "Trail Head" because we were immediately drawn to the amazing beach. The hike (that we did) was all on the beach. The piles of drift wood are amazing. How can trees that big be so high up on the beach?!! Walking on the beach is a pleasant way to spend the day. The most important thing to remember is LOOK AT THE TIDE CHART!!! The tide is powerful on this beach and comes in quickly! We had timed it just perfectly, but if we had been even 30 minutes behind schedule we would have had a much more challenging hike back.

The actually beach has every size rock and sand imaginable. The first (maybe) 1/2 mile is comprised of larger rocks, the next 1/2 mile is course gravel, then large sand, then soft sand is near the Hole in the Wall. The large rocks were a bit difficult to walk on for some of the older members in the group. We just took our time.

A beautiful and peaceful hike good for all hiking abilities!

Despite the lack of sun, Rialto Beach was crowded when we arrived at 10am. Didn't have trouble finding a parking spot though.

Easy walk along the beach. Lots of tide pools with star fish and other small creatures. Also saw a group of pelicans fishing.

The tide was low enough to access the arch. The rocks closest to the shore were quite slippery, lacking the usual crust of barnacles.