Trip Reports

Set out on trailhead at Mowich Lake a little before noon. Didn't see any other folks on trail until around Eagle Cliff viewpoint. Views were much better than my last time up here last month when it was overcast. Clear but a reddish haze in the air that someone told me was from wildfires in Oregon (I didn't think the Australia dust storm would have made it all the way up here!) I went past the turnoff to Spray Falls since I was just up there last month, but it is well worth the effort. Spray Falls would be great on a hot day in the summer to cool off. The trail gets steeper and switchbacks after it passes the falls turnoff. The trail is all in forest until the grade lessens and it opens up into some meadows. Hessong Rock is visible to the north. After another moderately steep stretch everything opens up and Spray Park is reached. I soon came to a spur trail that I could see going up the ridge to the north. I decided to take it and after a steep climb I attained a saddle between Hessong Rock and Mt Pleasant. I noted a spur trail going around Hessong Rock that I figured was probably the summit path, but I decided to leave it for another day. Great views of Mt Rainier, Spray Park, Observation Rock, Echo Rock, etc. Some blueberries still on upper trail. Most wildflowers past their peak but Mountain Bog Gentians still noted in meadows. Followed trail back same way. Would like to do loop over Knapsack Pass at some point (trailhead near Ranger cabin next to Mowich Lake). Spray Falls/Park is a great area which I hadn’t been to until this year. Highly recommended.

This is a great way to get to Mt. Rainier without battling the horrendous traffic on the interstates by going down Hwy. 18 and then a series of low-traffic back roads. The 14 mile gravel road to Mowich Lake (guidebooks say 17 miles, but the first few miles are actually paved) is in pretty good shape, though dusty.

Even though there is not a manned park entrance here, you still have to stop and pay your $15 at a lockbox station about 4 miles from the lake.

Once you get to Spray Park proper, the views of Mt. Rainier are stunning. Most wildflowers are past their peak, but there are still a lot in bloom. Some of the late-season bloomers here, like Mountain Bog Gentian, are best seen about now.

There are lots of biting bugs about, and there is no shade at all once you reach Spray Park, so plan accordingly. There is good water available at Grant Creek just past Eagle Roost.

I hiked the trail past Spray Park and up to the foot of the glaciers on the mountain, making for about a 11-12 mile round trip. Highly recommended if you have time.

I posted this Mountaineers trip as the "Mowich Ramble" -- Mowich Lake to Eunice Lake/Tolmie Peak to Mowich Lake to Spray Falls/Spray Park to Mowich Lake -- and held my breath. I offered this same trip last year and had to cancel when only one person signed up. (An official Mountaineers hike must have at least three people.) I was thrilled to see it fill up with four on the waitlist!

The Mowich Lake Road has seen some grading, but it's still full of washboard sections. And plenty dusty. It took us about 90 minutes to drive to the lake from our carpool meeting spot in Federal Way. Two of our group camped at the walk-in campground at Mowich Lake to get an extra hour of sleep.

It was sunny and cool when we hiked out of the trees and arrived at Eunice Lake, then made the steep walk up to the Tolmie Peak Lookout. The Carbon River Valley and the view North was completely clouded over, but the scene South was jaw-dropping -- Eunice Lake, Mowich Lake, Mt. Rainier and even Mt. St. Helens! Spray Falls was also stunning, but the clouds had moved in by the time we hit the second and third meadows of Spray Park. Great wildflowers, and the trails were in great shape -- very few muddy sections given the recent rains. Go soon before the summer ends -- if the gentians are any indication, it's not far off now!

Great conditions for a late summer climb!

Starting out from the Mowich Lake trailhead, my brother and I were able to find the Knapsack Pass trail next to the ranger cabin with only a little difficulty. There was a blowdown right across the start of the trail, obscuring it. While it had been misting down at lower elevations, the trail was dry and in good shape. (We were told that wet conditions can be nasty on the Knapsack Pass trail.) As we gained elevation, the cloud deck lowered so we had sun and moderate temperatures most of the way up. I was pleased to find some avalanche lillies still in bloom on the west side of the pass. Some wild blueberries, too!

Beyond the pass and heading for the main Spray Park trail, there is a lot of independent routefinding to do, picking your way through the boulders. It's definitely easier to get to Spray Park via Knapsack than it would be to head back to Mowich the same way.

From the 6400 foot high point on the Spray Park trail, we found the path heading up towards Observation Rock. The path is clear up to a snowfield at about 6800 feet. Take the snowfield up to nearly 7000 feet, then go up over or around a rocky hill and you will find a sweet campsite with windbreak at the bottom of another snowfield. (Park regulations forbid building new windbreaks or clearing new backcountry campsites, but this one is already in place.) The campsite has a fantastic view towards Echo Rock, The Mountain, and Observation Rock, and a creek running off of the snowfield about 100 feet away. We had started our trip on a Friday just to increase our odds of landing a great spot like this one, perfect!

We set up camp and hung around in the evening, tromping up the little snowfield to take a look at the Flett Glacier and plan our route for the next day. Temps must have dropped to freezing overnight, because the creek had ice on it in the morning, and there were also ice crystals in the dirt in camp. We were glad we had our 15 degree bags!

Our goal for the trip was to climb Observation Rock on Saturday. The front slope of the Flett above camp looked a bit steep and icy to us, but we're just building our skills and it appeared that others went right up it. We elected to instead head cross-country to the west, crossing bounder fields and other arms of the Flett, to ascent to Ptarmigan Ridge. The western end of the Flett has a marvelous 30-foot wide ramp sloping easily up to the Ridge. More rocky travel followed, and we easily found our way up the back side of Observation, all the way to the top! Bluebird conditions, and 360 degree views including looking down on Echo Rock 500 feet lower. We took 2.5 hours from the campsite to the peak via this route.

After lunch on the rock we decided to head down on a somewhat more direct route toward camp, on the Flett along the edge of Echo Rock, down to the point where it became too icy and thin, where we hopped onto the red rocks and went cross-country back to camp to rest and enjoy the evening. 1.5 hours from the summit back to camp. That evening we finally met some other hikers; since leaving Mowich we hadn't met a single person for over 30 hours.

Sunday morning was clear and cool at altitude after another freezing night, and our hike back to Mowich Lake via the main Spray Park trail was a joy! It was sunny throughout Spray Park, the air was cool and just slightly moist, and many of the wildflowers were still in bloom. Best of all, there were no biting bugs that morning! We had such a good time that I'm already keen to go back!

Dusty washboard road.
Arrived at the lake just before 10am.
Already lots of parked cars and warm termperatures.
And so my accountant and I headed up (or down, to start) the trail.
Very pleasant until after Spray Falls and then it was hot and steep.
The meadows were gorgeous, Av lilies waning, lots of fragrant lupine and that mountain.
No marmots, the nice cool underground much more attractive than the hot summer sun.
Took a water filter and the cool fresh water from the stream at the entry to Spray Park was a welcome relief.
My accountant tells me we passed 95 people coming in on our way down.
She also decided to rechristen the hike, renaming it BUG Spray Park.

We got a bit of a late start, arriving at Mowich Lake about 10:30am. Yes, it was hot, and yes, the bugs were pesky- but aren't they everywhere at the moment?
We got to Spray Park in about an hour (3 miles) and the flowers were amazing & prolific!
Just past Spray Park,on top of a ridge there is a spur trail that leads up between Echo Rock & Observation Rock. We chose to head up the snow (faster) and go around behind OR(to better sneak up on the summit), but encountered a bunch of red,crumbly pumice. Getting over that slowed us up a bit.(the red mixed with the gray granite was pretty though)
We regained a snowslope & then scurried up to the top. The hot sun was producing a veritable symphony of rockfall from the glaciers directly above us- always nice to be watching & listening from a safe distance! We did enjoy a respite from bugs with a nice breeze and a bit of altitude.
(about 8300')
Heading down (good glissades, but bumpy with suncups on my tender derriere,) we noticed some dark, ominous clouds coming our way from the east- this put a bit more spring in our step.
We drove home dreading the hot house that awaited , so we detoured to grab something to eat in an air-conditioned environment- putting off coming home until much later- house was still 87- ugh.

Arriving at Mowich Lake parking lot shortly before 8 a.m., we found it about 1/2 full. (The road in was fine, some minor washboards but not the kind that make your teeth chatter.) We were promptly greeted by the gray jays - looked like the overnighters weren't up, for the most part.

The trail to Spray Park was delightful and not crowded (on the way up, that is). We encountered a few muddy spots here and there, and patches of snow in the upper section of the park. Obviously, it's melting out fast in this weather!

The avalanche lilies stole the show. Beargrass was just starting to bloom, with much more to come. Jeffrey's shooting star, paintbrush, bistort, lupine, marsh marigold, sitka valerium, pink mountain heather, showy sedge, and many others were on display as well. A few bugs pestered us over lunch, but nothing too troublesome. A hummingbird buzzed by rather close (sounded like a giant bee) and caused us to upset part of lunch. Enjoyed the calls of the marmots and pine siskins.

By the time we started to hike out around noon, the trail was pretty much like I-5. Cars lined the road beyond the parking lot for a mile or so. A delightful hike--I was ready to see some lilies and Spray Park certainly delivers.

Arrived at Mowich just after 8:00. Only 4 cars in parking lot, probably most were camping. The edge of the lake has patches of snow, but it’s melting quickly. I would assume it will be gone after this weekend. I took some photos of the lake and then hit the Spray Park trail.

So many flowers, some I’ve never seen. I stopped at Eagle Cliff for the view and then headed up to Spray park. I skipped the falls today, I never seem to be able to photograph it right. The trail was the same as I remember except maybe a few more switchbacks. But worth every step once I arrived. Trail was muddy in many spots.

I saw several backpackers today. Marmots were grazing and whistling enjoying the day. Bugs were mostly flies and they followed me up the trail but going down there was a nice breeze, not a problem. I wandered around tarns and areas I haven’t explored, enjoying the solitude planning my next trip there and where I will go.

Saw a baby pika in the rocky area on the way down, so adorable! Then came the butterfly show. Did around 8 miles today 6 hours. Hike #62 of 2009

I will be back for Tolmie….

Oh, and I accidentally forgot to put my Rainer pass on my dash, remembered when I saw a ranger on the trail.. told him I forgot and hoped I wouldn’t get a ticket.. There was something on my window a reminder to pay or show my pass.. my bad..

The road to Mowich Lake opened on Thursday, 16 July, with the Springtime landslide across the road outside the Park completely cleared. The road is in very good shape.

Patches of snow at the campground but melting fast. No snow on the trail until reaching lower Spray Park. At Spray Park, the trail crosses snow patches but is easy to follow. With warm weather expected to continue, much of the snow will be gone by next weekend. Lots and lots of avalanche lilies, and many louseworts in mid Spray Park.

We took the side trail west towards Mt Pleasant-Hessong ridge, and climbed to the ridge. The approach to Hessong Rock requires solid ice axe skills on steep snow at this time. We continued to Mt Pleasant, then glissaded off the northeast side on great snow.

We finished off the trip by ascending Knapsack Pass and dropping westward back to Mowich Lake. There remains a fair amount of snow in this area.

~
This weekend was the best two day backpacking trip ever!!!

Tom and I decided to take advantage of the break in the weather and head up to the Mowich Lake area at Mt Rainier National Park for the last weekend one can get up there on the road (it closed today for the season) and backpack.

After a less than stellar experience getting our permit from some guy named Jeff (I can’t/won’t calls someone that snotty a “ranger” out of respect for the men and women who wear the uniform proudly and represent the NPS well) at the Carbon River entrance to the park.

We headed up the road to Mowich and arrived to clouds and mist. Spray Falls was just beginning to break out of the clouds when we headed out to the viewpoint.

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We made the long slog up the hill from the falls up to Spray Park. I swear, that hill always seems longer than I remember each time I go up. It’s steep but short I always say; then halfway up I realize that it’s steep and long… Oh Well, Spray Park is well worth the slog …

The lady Tahoma deigned to show herself to us once we arrived in Spray Park proper. It was a beautiful day in the making (at least up there, it looks like the Puget Sound region was socked in all day)

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We enjoyed the views and sunshine through Spray Park and then took the cut off to the Ptarmigan Ridge Cross Country Travel Area and headed up towards the ridge and snowfields. Our plan was to camp above tree line and enjoy the great views and get an early start to climb Observation Rock the next day.

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We got camp set up and managed to enjoy some dinner, wine and a beautiful sunset (above the clouds, which even obscured the view of Mt Baker) before it became too cold to be out.

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When I got up to answer the call of nature at about 1:00 AM the clouds had moved away and we could see the lights of the Puget Sound Region and Eastern Washington.

Did I mention that it was butt cold? Water that was inside the tent partially froze.

We got a very late start in the morning because lets face it, Down sleeping bags are GOOD! Getting out of down sleeping bags in sub-freezing temperatures before the sunshine has warmed camp up a bit is BAD!

There were these really weird ice crystals that push up out of the ground at night; they push up dirt and even small rocks. Some got to nearly 4” in length.

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After coffee and a leisurely breakfast we headed across the ridge to the snowfields and Flett Glacier. Our plans were to climb Observation Rock, but by the time we got up the glacier (Tom says it’s not a “real” glacier, that the Muir Snowfields a couple weeks ago were more of a “glacier experience” for me, but It’s a named glacier and harder than a rock, so I’m calling it one) we decided that it was just too late in the day to start the ascent and make it out before dark (we didn’t make it out before dark as it was)

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We instead headed across the glacier and climbed the moraine up to Echo Rock (where neither of us could find the route because we think it’s on the other side) and had a leisurely lunch.

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On our way down (because the ice was so hard and slick from melting and freezing water) we opted to hug the side of the snowfield (paying careful attention to falling rocks) which I was more than happy to do, because I definitely pushed my comfort level going up one steep stretch.

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We came across some Ptarmigans on (you guessed it) Ptarmigan Ridge. Almost all of them had turned completely white for the winter. We had seen them from camp, but it was a treat to get close enough to take a picture of one.

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It was fairly late, so we broke down camp fairly quickly and started down the rocks to get back to the main trail. We were sitting on the trail having a snack and heard a weird zipping and skittering noise. It took me a moment, but I realized, “Hey! I know what that sound is! It’s skis on hard ice, I’ve made that sound.”

Sure enough, we walked over to the edge of the snowfield in time to watch a guy lose his edges on a turn and take a nasty slide down the ice. We weren’t sure how he was, so we decided to wait around in case they needed help. His girlfriend exercised good caution and rather than trying to make the ill advised turn (actually heading down that ice field at all was ill advised, we saw them turn back from the glacier earlier in the day) she side slipped down to the bottom. Once we saw her get down to him and watched him get up none the worse for wear, we headed down the trail.

As we headed back down the trail, we say two bears running across the meadow into the trees. They were too fast for us to get cameras out (and a bit far away) but it was great to see them!

We got off the trail a bit after dark, but it was a quiet and peaceful walk out. The sun was setting on Tahoma as we exited the trail.

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We chatted with the ranger (a real one, not snotty Jeff the gate guard) a bit and headed out.

We were the last people to leave Mowich Lake for the season; the road is closed.

I can’t wait to go back next year!

The rest of the pictures are available here:

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You can view them as a slide show here:

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~L