Trip Reports

We had planned to hike Steamboat Rock but changed our minds when we saw the sign to this lovely hike and found the description in Bauer and Nelson's Best Desert Hikes Washington. The hike begins at a very well laid out trailhead with a toilet. Walk around the gate and up the road. Stay on the road past two trails to the left (one to a viewpoint and the other back to the equestrian trailhead, I think) and past the Old Wagon Road trail on the right, the latter also described in Bauer and Nelson. We were confused at first because the Northrup Canyon trail is a road, and the Old Wagon Road trail is a trail, not a road.

We stayed on the road hiking through trees and then meadowy areas past some low buildings and near cliffs which looked like they may house swallows, reaching the old homestead buildings in about an hour. Bauer and Nelson suggest turning around here, but we were glad we ignored their advice and kept going to Northrup Lake. Also, the hike to this point was easy, not difficult as Bauer and Nelson say. You will see a hiker sign next to one of the homestead buildings to mark the beginning of the actual hiker trail to the lake. Hike on past a small wetland, through interesting forest with evidence of an old burn, up a short steep section where you may slide a little, to a viewpoint, and then down a little to a gem of a lake abounding with several species of birds. We settled down to eat our lunch and enjoy the peacefulness as well as the interesting bird activity.

Bauer and Nelson say it is 3 miles to the homestead and one additional mile to the lake, but our hiking time was about evenly divided, which leads us to believe that it is 2 miles to the homestead and then 2 miles to the lake. Another note: Not far from the trailhead you will see a large area filled with rusty tin cans. Do not disturb these; they were discarded here by workers on the Coulee Dam, and since they have been here more than 50 years, they are considered artifacts and are not to be removed. This is confirmed by a sign at a readerboard at nearby Steamboat Rock State Park, of which Northrup Canyon is now a part. Watch for rattlesnakes; we saw a baby rattlesnake while hiking. Also, check for ticks after your hike.

We set up camp at Jones Bay CG on Banks Lake and then hiked Northrup Canyon to just above Northrup Lake. We could see and hear people shooting acros the canyon toward the lake, so since it was near turn-around time we chose not to go to the lake. The flowers were beautiful along the way, esp on the trail to the lake. We saw bitteroot,2 varieties of pentstemon,columbia frasera,scarlet gilia, to name a few. Near the abandoned cabin were white and lavender lilac bushes There must have been at least 20 swallowtails swarming around the lavender bush. A very beautiful sighting! We saw western kingbirds, western tanagers, and a Bullock's oriole. This hike was a good way to start our 3 day week-end!

Northrup Canyon is by far my favorite hike in Central Washington, and my favorite hike from November - April. It's one of our rites of spring. We watched the weather carefully, and chose to go out last Saturday, when the temps were in the 50's. Being a weekend, we weren't expecting solitude, which you can find here on weekdays if you have the option. We met up with another 5 groups (including one group of horseback riders) - that still wasn't enough to make it feel crowded to us.

The trailhead is about a 1:45 drive from Spokane. It's accessed from the road along Banks Lake, well-marked (at least from the north), just a mile or so north (and on the east rather than west) of the Steamboat Rock part of the State Park. Oh, as a state park, there's a $5 parking fee.

For those of you who haven't been here, Northrup Canyon is an ""alpine oasis"" in the desert. The nearby Steamboat Rock hike is okay, but you'll be lucky to see a tree. Northrup Canyon is lush with Ponderosa pines and Douglas firs. Currently, the only flowers were scattered buttercups, but most shrubs were budding out, so it will probably be another month before the prime blooming season.

As for the hike, you start out on a road (now blocked at the trailhead) back to an old homestead 1.7 miles back. This part is fairly flat, and the lower spots were muddy or covered with water. There generally was a dry path to tread somewhere on the side of the road, though. The creek through the lower canyon was flowing faster and deeper than either of the two of us had ever seen, forming pretty cascades near the wooden bridge a little more than a mile in, where you cross the creek. If you choose to do this hike before the water seeps/flows/evaporates away and the roadbed still is filled with water, look for a large (6 foot high) basalt boulder to the left just past the bridge, and you'll find an older, rocky (okay as long as you don't have bad ankles) road in the basalt talus that will let you walk to the homestead without going in water up to your knees (word is that a horse found a soft spot on the road on Saturday, and went down to it's belly - at least three feet). For a nice view up the lower valley, scramble 50 feet up the granite boulder pile just preceding the bridge (the reason the old road has to go from the east side of the creek to the west).

For me, the reason to go on this hike at this time of year is the rest of the trip, from the homestead up. From this point, it's a single-track trail that climbs about 400 feet vertical along a granite spine (the bedrock in the area before the basalts). I missed this trail the first time in - it's left and uphill (look for signs on one of the buildings). The trail meanders along a well-designed path through granite boulders and notches, in open pine forest for much of the way, with the occasional vista. After about a mile, you come to a steep section, and end up on the top of the granite ridge. A little further, and you start dropping down on the other (east) side of the ridge. Currently, there's a frozen pond up here (never before when we've been up) that marks this point, which I'll come back to. For now, you follow the trail past the pond, and down to Northrup Lake, which has a really nice lunch spot on some rocks near the shore as the trail skirts the southern side. The lake is currently 3/4 frozen. We've always stopped here, but the trail continues around the lake and up the east side of the canyon and out to the top. Total distance to the lake is about 3.2 miles.

From here, the wandering can continue in one of two ways. You can backtrack to the ridge where you crossed over to the east (currently where the small pond is first seen), and then follow a faint trail (faint only because there's no obvious preferred route for a moment) north along the ridge until the trail becomes obvious. Eventually (oh, about 0.3 miles), you get to a nice outcrop with a view (and another great lunch spot) into the west canyon extention, and its lake (the map shows it as seasonal, but it seems as nice as Northrup Lake to me). You can also reach this point by going crosscountry from Northrup Lake to the obvious saddle where the grassy hill meets the basalt talus from the cliffs - at this point, a trail appears that takes you through a pretty meadow to the view spot outcrop.

From this outcrop, the trail descends a short distance into the west canyon, and goes through pretty thick (certainly for central Washington) forest to get to the ephemeral (according to the maps) lake. There's a nice grassy spot for a get-together right when you get to the lake. The trail continues along the east side of the lake, but this appears to be seldom used, so it's pretty brushy. There's another nice picnic spot halfway along the lakeshore. We continued past the lake, and followed the route (not quite a trail anymore) to its conclusion at the end of both the last sub-canyons. It's about 0.5 miles to the lake, and another 0.5 miles to the end of the canyon.

The trip visiting all these places was about 9 miles round trip. The total elevation gain was 500 feet from trailhead to ridgetop, and 100 feet back up after visiting the west lake. It looks like climbing out of the canyon would add another 100 feet vertical.

There are times when you are walking the trail (after the homestead) that you can almost convince yourself you are hiking in summer at altitude. I hope the pictures convey the feeling that this isn't just a place to get exercise in the winter months, but a place to really reenergize your soul and remind it what's coming as the high country melts out.

On day two of my central Washington trip, after seeing the Beezley Hills and Moses Coulee for the first time the day before, I returned to visit an old friend dear to my heart- Northrup Canyon. Located just a stones throw away from Steamboat Rock, and part of the same state park, Northrup has a lot to offer: stunning canyon scenery, history, myriad species of birds and animals, and come spring breathtaking flower displays. I wanted to do the old wagon road carved out of the rugged cliffs by early settlers. You pick it up on your right a few hundred feet past the trailhead, and though at times pretty rocky it is at least at an easy grade as it eventually climbs out of the canyon onto the plateau above. As you near the upper reaches of the road/trail the flowers really begin to appear, highlighted by arrowleaf balsamroot and lupine. When I gained the top of the canyon I ventured over to the rocky rim, with great views of Steamboat Rock and Banks Lake to my left and below me and to the right the road on the canyon bottom winds its way toward the old settler's (Northrup) remaining homestead buildings at the head of the canyon. Near the rocky rim are many bitterroot plants ready to flower- what a show that will be! You could easily spend days and days exploring all the nooks and crannies in and around this canyon. Just a delightful place.

I then retraced my steps down to the main road/trail with plans to walk to the old farm/ranch bldgs. I ran into a nice lady out birding and enjoying the day- after she blurted out some bird talk I knew we didn't speak the same language (I'm a birder wannabee) but it was nice to exchange some pleasantries on the trail. I told her about the flower show atop the wagon road and she wants to come back next week to see that. She won't be disappointed. Then just 15 minutes after saying our goodbyes I nearly walked over a rattlesnake alongside the road! It immediately curled up and started doing its thing, then went off into the brush, still a'rattlin'. I was left rattling a little after that! Of course I came to my senses and tried to photograph it but it was too far into the brush by then- too bad. This was in a spot on the road not far after you cross a bridge over a small creek.

I proceded on and enjoyed looking at the old rustic building(s) and marveling at the spunk and grit of the folks who called this home. Sharing the beauty of the canyon with rattlers, ticks, winter snow and summer heat! Amazing. I them walked back and in a spot approximately half way between the old homestead and the low bridge I encountered another rattler, both I saw that day not more than 12-15"" in length. It curled up quickly and rattled a shshshshshssh sound- very distinctive sound- then quickly moved into the brush, but it was pretty skimpy brush so I could see him and tried getting as close as possible without it striking to photograph it. But there was still enough brush and light and shadow to make photographing it tough. The results wouldn't be publishable believe me!

So I had my fill of snake encounters for a trip I think. Pretty cool stuff. As I neared my vehicle I noticed a note on the windshield from the woman I had chatted with earlier- she just wanted to share that she had run into a snake shortly after we had met. Funny.

I hit the road with my dog Daisy at noon on Sunday, and drove out to Sun Lakes st park. I was going to do a short hike there and then camp, but there is some kind of horrible construction equipment going day and night, so I bailed on that noisy place. I drove through Coulee City to the Trail Lakes Coulee trailhead, but there was no place even halfway decent to camp anyhwere near there. So I decided to go on up to Steamboat Rock SP and camp there, but by then it was too late to do any kind of a hike, so I just played with the dog, barbecued, and rode my mtn bike around the area with the dog chasing after. Great stars that night, then a bright moon came out.

Monday I did some more bicycle exploring, and some lounging, and playing with the dog, then it started to rain a bit. Not enough to get wet, but I just decided I didn't feel like hiking that day. It happens. So I drove up to Grand Coulee dam and checked that out. I had never been before, and it was pretty cool. On the way back I drove up the road to Northrup canyon, and that looked interesting, so I planned that for Tuesday. I also found a WDFW camping area north of Northrup canyon but south of Electric city. I camped there Monday night since it is free if you have the WDFW VUP (Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife Vehicle Use Permit). It was nice, in between a high cliff and a small lake, with views towards Steamboat Rock.

Tuesday I drove back to Northrup canyon, and took off up the road on the mountain bike. After just a short ride I had to get off and walk due to solid ice on the road, covered in water, super slippery. But then the road moves over to the sunny side of the canyon, and I mounted up again. Daisy loved this, as she can finally move at her own pace instead of always waiting for her sluggish master. After a few more ups and downs the road reaches the old homestead of the Northrups. I left the bike there and we hiked up the trail towards Northrup lake. What a cool place this canyon is. There are tall cliffs with lots of tumbling boulders and rock slabs halfway fallen off the plateau above. Lots of wildlife, birds of every description and type of call. I especially liked all the awesome rock formations and distinctive boulders right along the trail. After some ups and downs and a decent uphill grind, I was at a good view area, toasty-brown grass interspersed with granite slabs and ponderosa pines and other types of pine trees. There are views up and down the canyon, with the ever-present coulee walls for added visual stimulation. I came to a junction, with the right fork heading towards Northrup lake, but I went the other way to get to another high point with more good views. From there I dropped down off trail to meet up with the Northrup lake trail again, and went over to the lake. It's 90% frozen still, but scenic in it's own small way. On the way back, I saw a bunch of the eagles that I was told to expect in the area. I got a few pictures of elongated dots that I claim are eagles, but you'd have to take my word for it. The binoculars worked better. It was nice to have the bike to roll partway back on, making the road section go more quickly and easily. I used the extra time to stop more and watch the eagles circling. It took 4 solid hours of driving to get home, plus some extra time for stopping to feed the dog, etc. Subtract about 20 minutes if you live in Seattle.

I left the Steamboat Rock State Park area behind me and was across the coulee at the gated road/trailhead area about 0.7 miles up Northrup Canyon. This has got to be one of the most amazing desert locations I've seen as the diverse plant population in here makes it a wildlife heaven. It stands out as the only forest stand of trees in Grant County--amazing to find some fir trees here along with the pines! This also makes the canyon one of the hottest birding locations in the Grand Coulee and I now know why I see reference to it so much from the Northwest birding experts. I was greeted within 10 seconds of starting my hike to a lovely owl call from the trees at the base of the cliffs to the south. It wasn't a Great-horned owl, and after a lot more listening I am certain it was a Long-eared or Barred owl that I was listening to. Woodpeckers were sending a percussion of beats echoing off the canyon walls the entire time I was there--the dead ponderosa pine tree snags were a favorite of theirs! Numerous hanging birds nests in the trees showed the activity of summer from some species of flycatchers that visit the canyon. The hike up the road was pleasant and would be much appreciated when the snakes have emerged, as Northrup Canyon with all of it's riparian habitat has a healthy rattlesnake population. But here you have a trail 7-8 feet wide so even if one is present you'll see it well ahead of yourself! I hiked back up the canyon 1.5 miles or so, marveling at the rock formation on the north walls. The red-twig dogwoods and aspen tress really added color to the canyon floor too! Upon returning to the trailhead area I went up the Old Stagecoach Road Trail for 25 minutes as well, and will go up there further when I visit again. This area is closed from November 15-March 31 last winter, clearly signed and fenced off, to protect the fascinating bald eagle roosting event that happens each night in these large trees. A large population of bald eagles of the entire region come here by 5:00pm during the winters. Other note: a newly completed 10 car parking area and shiny toilet outhouse facility are now in place at the trailhead, as was planned last summer to happen this winter. The paint in the outhouse still smelled! Must have been completed within the past week. Real nice! I really want to return to this canyon in mid-May sometime to do some serious birding as the warblers, vireos, and flycatchers come migrating through!