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Showing all trip reports for the hike "Marmot Pass - Upper Big Quilcene"

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Olympics -- East
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Great day on the trail, snow starting to show. Temperature was in the high 20's, low to no wind, and...
Great day on the trail, snow starting to show. Temperature was in the high 20's, low to no wind, and partly sunny. Encountered alot of hikers out for a day hike as well as a few going up to overnight. Trail is in good shape, but is icy in places.
 
Olympics -- East
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The last time I was at Marmot Pass was in October of 2003, just after my 40th birthday. Now nine yea...
The last time I was at Marmot Pass was in October of 2003, just after my 40th birthday. Now nine years later I’m feeling a little less spry than I used to. I spent the night at the trailhead and got on the trail at 0740 while it was still very cool out. The hike was pleasant as the trail gains elevation at a relatively constant rate; only a couple switchbacks and nothing terribly steep. I was hoping to make it to the Pass before breaking out my lunch, but about half way between Camp Mystery and the Pass I was wiped out. I took a pack off break, ate my lunch, and rehydrated for 15 minutes before pressing on. I made the Pass at 12:20, almost five hours from when I began. I’m gettin’ slow…

It was absolutely beautiful; the weather and the scenery made the trek well worthwhile. I saw nobody on the trail and I had the whole Pass to myself for half an hour. I had forgotten how stunning this piece of wilderness is. The last time I was here I climbed up on the Buckhorn Ridge for even more stunning views, but I was pretty beat today and admired the views from the Pass.

At the Pass I spent some time with the radio working repeaters and simplex. After I finished with the radio I heard a party of three coming back from somewhere, to their campsite just below the Pass. I started down at 1300. On the hike out I passed several parties on their way in. I reached the trailhead in about three hours, logging about 11½ miles roundtrip.
 
Olympics -- East
Fall foliage
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My younger sister hiked Marmot Pass with Girl Scouts last summer and has not stopped talking about i...
My younger sister hiked Marmot Pass with Girl Scouts last summer and has not stopped talking about it since. Curious to see a marmot and the magnificent views I was promised, we planned an overnight.

Having read previous trip reports, we camped between Camp Mystery and Marmot Pass. Our spot was ideal! Within a couple of minutes we could reach the divide for easy access to some of the best sunrise and sunset scenes I have ever been privy to. Just make sure to fill up your water bottles at Mystery because there is no water source past the camp.

It was chilly both at night and in the morning but we were shielded from the wind and were blessed with a rain-free weekend.

Marmot Pass is definitely doable as a day-hike but after reaching your destination, it’s likely you’ll never want to leave! I would really enjoy going back for a multi-night trip to venture onto some of the nearby trails. And to catch a couple more of those phenomenal sunrises and sunsets!

And although I didn’t manage to see a marmot, my sisters were able to do so.

You can’t go wrong choosing to hike Marmot Pass. It’s worth the drive from Seattle. Enjoy!
 
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Olympics -- East
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Started out at 11am and followed the trail into thick fog and clouds. trail conditions themselves we...
Started out at 11am and followed the trail into thick fog and clouds. trail conditions themselves were perfect, but there was no view - none - all the way up to and including at Camp Mystery. We had decided to stay there for two nights, but were second guessing ourselves, until we hiked to the pass for sunset.

The views were amazing in both directions. On one side, you had the sun descending over the Olynpic's craggy peaks, bathing them in orange light, and in the other direction, a full moon rose over the cloud carpeted valley, making it look like an ocean, and reflecting so much light, it was as if daytime never ended.

In our second day, we hiked back up to the pass, then along the trail that traversed the ridge in both directions (not up, just along). Pretty nice spots to stop along the way, but just more and more amazing views to take in.

We hiked back down with a 6:30am start this morning and got to see the sun rise over the Cascades, as if our trip hadn't been awesome enough already. This was definitely one to remember.
 
Olympics -- East
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From Quilcene > FS 27 > FS 2750 Started from Trailhead - 833.1 - Upper Big Quilcene Tr. elev 2700'...
From Quilcene > FS 27 > FS 2750
Started from Trailhead - 833.1 - Upper Big Quilcene Tr. elev 2700'
to Buckhorn West summit elev 6996'
approx 6 miles

3:15 (hrs:mins) to summit

well-maintained trail

big, big views
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming, Ripe berries
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Neither my friend or I had been up Marmot before, and although the forecast called for fog, it turne...
Neither my friend or I had been up Marmot before, and although the forecast called for fog, it turned out to be barely-cloudy and beautiful for the whole weekend. The trail was moderate at its most difficult, with steep sections not lasting terribly long and established campsites being pretty frequent. Bugs weren't too prolific and we were lucky to encounter almost no wind whatsoever up on the ridge.

Things to know:
- Mystery is not your last opportunity to camp. There are established sites a ways after at your very last water source, some more in the groves around the meadow/pass itself, and even a few along the ridgeline trails. The ridgeline sites, however, are pretty low on tree cover, so be aware of that one a windy day.
- As mentioned above, the last water source in the later portion of the season is a ways beneath the pass; not terribly convenient if you're camped up in the ridgeline. Either bring at least 3 liters of water a person to the ridge per night, or plan on making water runs. We were told that there is snow up there much of the rest of the season, however.
- This past weekend, there were a lot of hunters, with and without stock animals. Lots of stock animal urine and feces along the trail as a result. Occasional gun shots, though nothing wanton. There were a lot of people in general.

Overall I'd say that this was an extremely rewarding hike for its tame difficulty. I'd definitely come back here, although - if I had it to do over again - I'd take two cars and park one at each end so we could hike straight through.
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
Blowdowns
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Great overnight hike -- the trail is well-maintained and absolutely gorgeous. One blowdown that you ...
Great overnight hike -- the trail is well-maintained and absolutely gorgeous. One blowdown that you need to crawl over, but nothing major. We encountered plenty of other people on the trail but were mostly alone at Camp Mystery -- the other campers favored spots closer to the ridge or in the valley below. We didn't encounter any wildlife, which was fine with us!
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
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Great trail; few offer the diversity of environments this one does. The trail is currently in excel...
Great trail; few offer the diversity of environments this one does. The trail is currently in excellent condition, and visiting midweek I didn't encounter much traffic at all. I was the only person camping anywhere near Marmot Pass or Camp Mystery! If making an overnight trip, I recommend one of the campsites just above Camp Mystery or one really great spot just below the pass and to the immediate right of the trail.

Although a ranger at Quilcene cautioned me about aggressive goats around the pass, I didn't encounter or see signs of any goats in the area. Mosquito presence was also at a minimum. Watch out for exceptional fungi for the first few miles in the forest, and if staying overnight, be sure to ascend Mount Buckhorn for an incredible sunrise view (the trail to Mt. Buckhorn is in good condition, requiring a little moderate scrambling at the summit. The trail begins about 100 yards north of the pass and steeply ascends for about 1/3 mile before leveling out somewhat on the ridge.
 
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Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
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Despite the cloudy sky in the lowlands, once we reached the trailhead it was completely blue and rem...
Despite the cloudy sky in the lowlands, once we reached the trailhead it was completely blue and remained that way all day. It's a long haul up to Marmot Pass, but worth it, especially now while the flowers last. There were many campers leaving as we ascended, and on the way down, others, including a group of ten--so I imagine that Camp Mystery must have been completely full by evening. The views of the mountains were wonderful at the Pass, and even better at our lunch spot on a small knoll up to the left. On our way down from the Pass, we had the pleasure of finally (after doing this hike for seventeen years!) seeing a marmot near Marmot Pass!
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming, Ripe berries
Water on trail, Bugs
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What a gorgeous spot! This was my first trip into the Olympics... and tempered the move from the ce...
What a gorgeous spot! This was my first trip into the Olympics... and tempered the move from the central Cascades well with it's long green valleys and craggy peaks.
Some highlights of the trip:
- We thought trail time of 10:00am was on the late side, but we were able to snag a campsite at Camp Mystery without any problems (campers poured in all day, so almost all spots were used overnight)
- The trail steadily gets steeper all the way to the pass
- Wildflowers!! Lupine, paintbrush, columbine, Queen Ann's Lace (renamed Queen Ants Lace... you'll understand when you see it if you don't already), larkspur, and oh so many more!
- Views. Just views.
- Very friendly campground! Felt like my old summer camp days
- Marmot siting!
- Unfortunately no mountain goats for us
- A natural spring bubbles up above Camp Mystery and provides a perfect creek at camp for refilling water bottles
- Beware, some mosquitoes are still alive and hungry.

All in all, stellar hike!

Until next time... the mountains are calling and I must go...
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
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Everything the guidebook promises, this trip has it all, and the wildflower meadows rival even Mt. R...
Everything the guidebook promises, this trip has it all, and the wildflower meadows rival even Mt. Rainier's. Understandably then, people and dogs were swarming up here in droves on Saturday. The one-lane trail took some creative maneuvering for passing, and we were happy to be leaving the oncoming tide of humanity, if not the meadows.

Some half-dozen tents nearly filled the streamside sites of Camp Mystery Friday night, but it looked to be triple that number of overnighters coming in. Not only were there more campers than sites, but there are no toilets up here. We may soon be loving another special place to death.
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
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One of my favorite trails. Lots and lots of people on the trail, mainly day hikers. There was thick ...
One of my favorite trails. Lots and lots of people on the trail, mainly day hikers. There was thick fog until Marmot Pass on the first day and on the second day the fog started after you get into the forest. The trail is in great shape, the grade is not very steep, perfect for somebody who's not quiet in their top shape yet.
I camped on the ridge to the left of the pass. Great spot but at night a male mountain goat showed up right to my tent and scared me. I made noise and hoped it'd go away but it kept circling my tent for 2 full hours! He came around 3:30am. There was full moon so I could see him pretty well. It seemed pretty aggressive because it constantly would try to sneak around me and get closer and he breathed heavily. He came up really close a few times and me screaming and yelling at him, even throwing rocks, didn't seem to really impress him. He finally gave up right before sunrise.

I gotta say I had quiet a night... Next time I'll camp with every body else at Mystic and enjoy the sunset from the ridge but I won't stay up there again.

Oh! Almost forgot! Amazing wildflowers, almost zero bugs, plenty of water along the trail. Easy drive with any vehicle.
 
Olympics -- East
Snow on trail
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After attempting to make it to the pass from Boulder shelter 3 weeks ago (avalanche danger around 56...
After attempting to make it to the pass from Boulder shelter 3 weeks ago (avalanche danger around 5600'), we went this route, as I knew it was open. My brother's ashes were spread above the pass along the ridge off the the left that takes you to Boulder Ridge Charlia Lakes. Much to my surprise and delight, the marker my younger brother and I erected last October was still just as we left it, along with items that were left at the site. We did encounter, along with the ~20 other hikers atop the ridge, the 3 mountain goats. The trip was amazing overall and I look forward to many more visits to the pass and my brother's memorial.
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
Blowdowns
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We were a group of 9. There were dozens of people on the trail, both day hikers and backpackers. Con...
We were a group of 9. There were dozens of people on the trail, both day hikers and backpackers. Considering the payoff of this trip, I was surprised there were not more people. The trail has everything: old growth forest, waterfalls, wildlife, breathtaking views.

Trail is in great condition. Only a couple of blowdowns. No snow. We saw a marmot hanging around the open slope right before the final climb to the pass.

OF NOTE: There was a mountain goat at the pass. It was not afraid of people, walked on the trail, and came extremely close to hikers. It was not behaving aggressively (mostly ambling about and grazing), so some of us (admittedly including me) felt pretty bold to take rare up-close photos and not try to get away from it.

One person in my party threw rocks at the goat to get it to move away from the people. I disagreed with this, and we had a friendly debate about appropriate responses to the goat.

However, I did check different sites when I returned home. According to the NPS Mountain Goat Management Plan that came out last year in response to the 2010 death, my party member was indeed right. The distance at which mountain goat behavior around humans starts becoming a concern is a distance of less than 300 feet. This particular mountain goat walked on the trail with dozens of hikers around and came within a few feet.

"The rule of thumb at all times is to stay at least 50 yards away from goats and really all wildlife," says Olympic National Park spokeswoman Barb Maynes. "But if a goat approaches, then we recommend chasing the animal away by yelling, waving arms and coats, and throwing rocks. Then report it to the nearest ranger station immediately. If actions like throwing rocks and yelling don't work, then retreat."

(Found on http://blogs.seattleweekly.com/[…]/man_gored_by_mountain_goat_was.php)

I suspect most of the hikers at Marmot Pass didn't really know what to do. Although we were all hyper-aware of the mountain goat's presence, in general, most also seemed tolerant (if not quite curious) of it. Few, if any folks, were actively attempting to haze it away.

Now I know better. As I assume many others did, I did leave a late night message at the ranger station reporting the goat.

 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
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This trail humbled me. I thought I was is good shape, but this was a tough trail. Worthy of Hike of ...
This trail humbled me. I thought I was is good shape, but this was a tough trail. Worthy of Hike of the Week, it's worth the sweat! Packed and ready to go, I checked the website and there it was. Even so we saw few people on it today. Mostly backpackers going in as we were coming out. The snow is gone and the flowers are out! My biggest problem was from Shelter Rock camp to Mystery camp. Once we left Mystery camp after a nice long stop, it was easy to see where the trail went and know the pass was within our reach. When you reach the pass, hike up a little farther toward Boulder camp, there are some good lunch rocks. My daughter hiked all the way up to Boulder, the views get even better! I however stayed on the lunch rock and took pictures of flowers. There's one I can't Id so if anybody knows what it is please leave a reply, it looks like a member of the lily family.
 
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Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
Blowdowns, Water on trail, Snow on trail
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Beautiful sunny day when much of the rest of Washington was in clouds. Trail is in great shape. Ther...
Beautiful sunny day when much of the rest of Washington was in clouds. Trail is in great shape. There is a single tree across the trail before Camp Mystery and some minor snow after Camp Mystery that requires no special traction nor difficult route finding. The wildflowers are in full glory and spectacular right now. The distant peaks seen from the pass and viewpoints above the pass are still beautifully and heavily snow covered. The way path to Buckhorn Peak is clear. The short way path up to the left from the pass to the beautiful meadow viewpoint has some snow to work around and some exposure if you stay lower on the snow.
 
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Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
Blowdowns, Water on trail, Snow on trail
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Beautiful Day, beautiful hike. The snow has melted finally to the point where it's fairly easy to pa...
Beautiful Day, beautiful hike. The snow has melted finally to the point where it's fairly easy to pass through. There's a ~200 yard patch near the top covered in snow, but it's pretty manageable. Because it was so sunny, little bit of post holing going on, but not too bad. The hike is quite a bit uphill, but it's steady and manageable. I don't think it ever really flattens out until the top.

Get there early on a nice day. It got pretty crowded, and parking lot was full by 10, but you can park down the road a bit. Don't forget your forest parking pass.

At the top of marmot pass, there's a nice laminated map someone has left near the signposts. From the pass, either go up the ridge for nice views West, or what we did was head east so you can see around Mount Buckhorn. Worth it. You can either take the flatter route and see around the ridge, or straight up to Mt Buckhorn and get the panorama. Look for mountain goats near the top.
 
Olympics -- East
Blowdowns, Water on trail, Snow on trail
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I picked a terrible day to take off from work for a hike. Cold and raining all day. Left at 10AM...
I picked a terrible day to take off from work for a hike. Cold and raining all day.

Left at 10AM arrived at 1PM the last hour was at a snails pace in snow shoes operating in several feet of snow. Was post holing until I gave in and put on the snow shoes-you definitely need them.

I was worn out after arriving at Marmot Pass and the wind began to pick up and it got very cold quickly. The workout of climbing the grade to the pass was over. I had planned on climbing up Mount Buckhorn but was tired and cold.

The last hour of ascent was completed in half hour on the way down. I'm sure most of my path to below snow level wasn't on the real trail and I'd tied some ribbon on a few trees to assist if I couldn't find my tracks from the way up.

Nobody else on the trail today (for obvious reasons)-this hike was way to early in the season. Got a few good pictures on the way up and it beat staring at the computer all day. I'll come back here around August unless this global warming thing finally pans out.
 
Olympics -- East
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Only Gaiters were needed to get from the trailhead of Marmot pass all the way to the top of Buckhorn...
Only Gaiters were needed to get from the trailhead of Marmot pass all the way to the top of Buckhorn
 
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Olympics -- East
Snow on trail
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We met the WTA trail crew at the TH! Thanks for your hard work! The trail is in good shape with pa...
We met the WTA trail crew at the TH! Thanks for your hard work!
The trail is in good shape with patchy snow starting at about 4000ft and becoming continuous at 5000 ft. Marmot pass is still a blanket of at least 6 ft of snow. Hikers will have to navigate through the snow for the last 1000ft as the trail is still buried.
We had some stunning views at the pass and even saw a marmot in the snow!
 
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Olympics -- East
Snow on trail
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The trail is quite good for the first 4 miles. There's a light dusting of snow everywhere as you wal...
The trail is quite good for the first 4 miles. There's a light dusting of snow everywhere as you walk along the river, but it makes for great hiking. Once you hit the avalanche chutes, it gets a bit heavier, though the views are spectacular. There's probably about an inch or two there, but then you quickly go back into the woods and it thins out again. The hard part is the last mile, and particularly the last half mile. The fresh powder builds up to about 10 inches, the trail gets hard to see, and when the wind caught my map I was running after it (or trying to run) in snow past my knees. Great hike for the most past, but it's too late now to do the whole thing.
 
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Olympics -- East
Fall foliage
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To take advantage of one of the last days this year when the higher reaches are not yet snow covered...
To take advantage of one of the last days this year when the higher reaches are not yet snow covered, we headed out to the Big Quilcene trail. Since we had a late start we realized we wouldn't be able to make it all the way to Marmot Pass and get back before it was dark. There was only one other vehicle in the parking lot when we arrived and nobody else came later. We met up with the other person as we were ascending and he descending. Unlike our unpleasant experience with the hunters on motor bikes last week at Mount Townsend, this hunter was a pleasure to talk with. He had spent four (quite freezing nights) up high and though he hadn't found his prey, saw many other animals, especially coyotes--and one black bear, which he said was near the trail.
     After talking with him and realizing that now we were the only people in the entire area, we became more watchful for the possibility of bear: talking loudly, singing, and such, so we wouldn't surprise one.

    Although it was sunny when we started out, the fog kept getting thicker and by the time we reached the open slopes, completely covered all the view. We ate our lunch on a couple of big rocks in the largest avalanch slope, and luckily, by the time we finished, the fog lifted and we had some of the most beautiful views of the surrounding peaks I've seen on this hike before. As we continued upward for a while after eating, the fog returned and everything turned back to grey. It was our turn around time anyway. We had climbed about 2700 feet and hiked about four miles by that time. Our return was uneventful; we enjoyed the close views of the river and the gorgeous trees. No bears in sight!
 
Olympics -- East
Snow on trail
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Absolutely beautiful and passes through about 3 different ecosystems. The gravel road to this tra...
Absolutely beautiful and passes through about 3 different ecosystems.

The gravel road to this trailhead is very well maintained. Just a few potholes, but mostly smooth and newly graded. I was fine in my little 2-door coup. The hiking trail is exceptionally well maintained and about 2-3ft wide at all times..

Starting the hike, the entire valley was in the fog, but it burned off by about 11am, leaving incredible views of jagged mountains. It had snowed the night before, so the last 1.5-2 miles was under snow and I was sinking in about 1ft up at the pass. The sunny day was causing the snow to melt very quickly, though. Even under all the fresh snow, the trail was very easy to follow. I imagine this is nearly the end of the season for the upper elevations of this hike.

This was a weekday and I passed about 10 others on the trail also aiming for Marmot Pass.
 
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Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
Blowdowns, Clogged drainage, Overgrown, Mudholes, Water on trail, Snow on trail
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Trying to get at least one decent backpack in this summer, I planned a 4-to-6 day trip from Big Qui...
Trying to get at least one decent backpack in this summer, I planned a 4-to-6 day trip from Big Quilcene trailhead to Whiskey Bend trailhead to hike a number of parts of the park I've never been to before like the Big Quilcene, Constance Pass, middle of the Dosewallips trail, Hayden Pass, and Dodger Point. There was even a good weather forecast for the first 3 days...

I did not end up going up to Dodger Pt, but included Dodger Pt/Semple Plateau trail in the list as there is some information about the ford down below.

Big Quilcene trail:

Heading up the Big Quilcene was nice. There were 6 other cars at the trailhead on a Monday in mid-September, which was a bit surprising - I was expecting no one. I guess it's a popular day hike. There were 5 cars there the next Sunday afternoon. The terrain (or vegetation, at least) is quite varied on the way up. There are some interesting dry (but still vegetated) scree slopes below rock pinnacles Buckhorn and Iron Mts., then quite wet areas when you get back near the valley bottom with lots of springs and seeps. It's quite lush around and above Camp Mystery, with a snow patch here and there, but then quite suddenly becomes low brown grass in the basin immediately below Marmot Pass. I didn't see any marmots, but did hear one in the distance. The vegetation changes again somewhat dramatically after crossing the divide to the Dungeness drainage. Right by the pass it's actually greener with lots of flowers still blooming, but then you descend into very dry, sparse pine forest. Yes, really, there is some pine forest on the sunny slopes. The trail is noticeably less used on the way to Boulder Camp, where it is lush and green again.
  There is one good-sized, steep snow patch on the trail not too far from (and visible from) the pass - boots and poles are helpful, and you could slide a ways on it (continuing down the scree...) if you slipped. And there is one down log on the trail - it's in great shape.

Constance Pass trail:

  This trail is much less used than the trail before Boulder Camp. And, surprisingly to me, it becomes noticeably less used after the turnoff for the Charlia Lakes. There is almost no use from there to the Dosewallips, lots of small branches and such down, and trees down here and there. The trail is pleasant enough, and the scree cones and talus piles below the cliffs on Warrior Peak and the west side of Constance are quite impressive. There is also a lot of snow still on the slopes and valley bottom there. There is a swath of avalanche damage a little below Home Lake, with lots of trees broken off 15 to 20' above the ground and about 10 trees to clamber over or under and some snow patches. If you're northbound, it's likely easier to drop down to the large snowfield filling the valley bottom and slide your way to the bottom of that to rejoin the trail, but it’s not too bad. The climb from Home Lake to Constance Pass is pretty wet and sloppy and eroded in places, but no snow right on the trail.
  The 700' uphill after reaching Constance Pass was a bit surprising! It's obvious on the map, but I'm not sure I've ever taken a trail over a pass that climbed substantially up the ridge from the pass before dropping down the other side. Then there is the brutal 4200' descent in about 4 miles. The ridgetop is quite nice and open, with good views. Then there is interesting geology/topography of shale slopes dropping down to the pond at "Sunnybrook Meadows". Camping is best a little above the pond, and the first/last good water source is a large spring above the pond where the slope flattens/steepens.
  There's a fair bit of wet, muddy, sloppy, overgrown trail in the valley bottom before you reach the dry ridge that takes you the rest of the way down to the Dosewallips trail. That trial is oddly dry with small trees and almost no undergrowth for quite a while. Probably hard to find under the snow. Eventually you start going through rhododendrons, then salal before reaching the Dosewallips trail. I don't remember much in the way of down trees on the descent.

Dosewallips trail:

  Back to a heavily used trail, and it's not even steep! No problems making good time up the Dosewallips. No trees down, no overgrowth, no problems. In the upper part of the valley, but below Dose Meadows, the avalanche chutes have even been brushed, which is very nice. Last time I did that piece of trail, it was wading through waist to chest deep vegetation, including patches of nettles here and there. Not so fun. Thanks for the brushwork, whoever did it!
  There are numerous marmots at Dose Meadows and above, and the terrain is spectacular. Lots of flowers, lots of springs, some wet meadows, views of the steep cliffs and snow cornices on Mt. Fromme. There are a couple small snow patches on the way to Hayden Pass, but they are not steep or dangerous. The last water on the way up is a large spring above the trail around 5300' at the bottom of the obvious switchbacks climbing up the headwall. Nice views from the pass.

Hayden Pass trail:

  I left the trail around 5700' to climb the WSW spur of Mt. Fromme, then traversed the basin below it to head up Mt. Claywood. No problem going up it, although it was kind of windy. There's a nice sheltered nook on the N. side of the Claywood summit, though. Absolutely spectacular views from there - You're right in the middle of the Olympics, on one of the highest mountains around. Mt. Anderson or Crystal Peak are probably the only comparable views, although they might actually not be as good, since various parts of Anderson probably block views more. Anyway, you can see Mt. Angeles, Deception, Constance, Jupiter and the Brothers (both surprisingly isolated), Rainier, St. Helens, Washington, Stone, Anderson, Colonel Bob (I think), Skyline Ridge (with a fair bit of snow still), Crystal, White, Meany, Olympus, and the Bailey Range. Quite spectacular. The view down to the 5/8 snow covered lake between Fromme and Claywood is nice, too. There's a nice little moraine (little ice age?) holding the lake in. And another pond off to the north, lots of pretty snow patches and glaciated terrain...
  The first copious water on the way down is at about 5300', with the best water being two streams right after one another. There is a lot of water coming down the mountain from 5300' to about 4000' - no need to carry water! Some areas are bogs with essentially no trail - you WILL be slopping through inches deep much and mire. A lot of the trail that is not mud is loose shale, and is sliding down the mountain slowly, or churned up by marmots, so it's not in the best shape. This stretch could use some work... I thought WTA had a trail crew here last week, but I guess not, as I didn't see any signs of trail work on this trail except for a tiny bit of brushing at the bottom. There are about 17 trees down above 4000', but most are just step-over old snags. One of the worst is a green tree immediately below Marmot Pass.
  Below about 4000' the trail is in good shape, with no trees down, but still occasional streams for water. The "intermittent" stream that crosses the trail twice at its northernmost extreme is gushing nicely.

Dosewallips trail:

  I spent the night at Hayes River campground, where the Elwha was easily fordable at a nice, gravel-bottomed knee deep ford. Then it rained, lightly, all night and through the morning. The river had come up at least a few inches before I left (after packing up under the ranger station porch). I had planned to cross the Elwha and take the Dodger Pt. trail / Semple Plateau trail up to Dodger Pt. for the night. But the ford did not look nearly as nice - boulder/cobble bed, the river seemed high, the river had gotten much cloudier either because of the rain or the Goldie River, and you could not see the bottom in the center. And I figured the trail was probably overgrown and I'd be soaking wet all day to spend a night up high with unknown weather. So I just continued downstream. For 2 miles, until the weather had improved significantly. So I hiked back to the ford and tried it. I got to about mid-stream, the water was crotch-deep and very forceful, and I could not see where I was stepping or if the next step would be deeper or shallower, so I gave up. And headed back down the Elwha. Again.
  It appears there is lots of potential camping along the river (off the trail) from the ford (Remann's cabin) to Elkhorn ranger station. Around the ranger station is a surprising open grass terrace that would be nice for getting some sun. Not a lot to report downstream from there - the trail is mostly in good shape, no trees down that I remember, well brushed (although your feet can get pretty wet from low grass and vegetation hanging over the trough the stock have beaten the trail into). There's the big climb between Mary's Falls and Lillian River, but it's pretty gradual and is obvious on the map. Saw a bear way ahead of me climbing up the through thick trees at one point. And there is lots of bear poop along the trail from about Lillian River down past the trailhead and along the road.

  Out of curiosity, I looked at the data from the USGS gaging station above Lake Mills, and that one overnight drizzle (where I was, anyway), caused the river to double in flow, rise 8" or more, and have a huge spike in turbidity all in about 12 hours. Bad timing for my ford attempt - I'm sure the evening before I could have done it. It appears that you need a flow below 1000 cfs at station 12044900 for the ford, and I think 700 or so might be passable. Oh well, I'll have to try to get up Dodger Pt. some other time or some other way.


General points:

  There were hardly any blueberries anywhere. I think there were just not many this year, although maybe the alpine ones had ripened and all harvested by bears already? I did see purple bear poop. I found a few deliciosum berries that were delicious, and some lowland blueberries and red huckleberries, but the latter were few and far between, and not very good. I think there are going to be hungry bears this fall.
  Bugs were not much of a problem. They were worst around Home Lake and Hayden Pass, and some at Dose Meadows, but I never used DEET even while cooking and eating, and they were not a real issue. Annoying at times, but not enough to make me do anything about it.
  There are a lot of flowers blooming considering the late date, presumably because of the late, late summer and heavy snowpack. It was interestingly varied, with early flowers like phlox and Douglasia blooming still in spots, but other areas seeming like fall. And some areas very wet still, and others quite dry.
  Saw a lot of marmots from Dose Meadows to Hayden Pass, a number of squirrels and chipmunks, a bear (barely), a few deer, a couple frogs, a garter snake, lots of ravens, lots of juncos feeding, flocks of American Pipits (I'm pretty sure) on the snowfields and seedy meadows by Constance Pass, a park service mule/horse team headed out Dosewallips, and about 15 people (7 of those the first day, 1 on each of the last two).
  It was a great hike, although a bit too vigorous considering how out of shape I am. First real backpack trip in years. And that last day was brutal - 16 miles according to the Green Trails maps, 17 according to the park service map, plus about 4 miles of backtracking, then bicycling with pack down to 101, where I missed the last bus, and biking up and over the Little River Rd. to Port Angeles, in the dark. It was all nice enough (one reason to avoid 101), but a long, long day.

Elwha dam:

  Oh, just some comments about the Glines Canyon dam removal. They've taken out some of the above-lake-level concrete, but I think that's about it (at least last weekend when I dropped off my bike). There are cloth covered fences right by the Whiskey Bend Rd. to keep you from seeing anything, and you couldn't see much anyway, even if you cut through it or peer over it. There are ropes strung through the trees on either side to keep you away from even the lakeshore. Without going under those ropes, there is really nothing visible at all - the best you can do is catch a glimpse looking through the trees down-lake from far up the road. I'm not sure why the park service seems to need to keep people from even seeing anything - I don't think the lake shore 200 yards from the dam will be getting any more dangerous than it has been for the last year - just some possibly slippery mud. There are already some "social trails" around the barriers, but I've heard the park service even has cameras in the woods some more remote places than this. They have also posted a closure sign on the "Lake Mills 0.4 mi" trail near Whiskey Bend, but that seems to be all. That, of course, would be the place to go to see the most fascinating changes as the river eats down through the old delta. How the delta changed over last winter alone was pretty impressive - and for whatever reason you were allowed to watch that.
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
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Marmot Pass is one of the best day hikes in the Olympics! The Upper Quilcene trail starts out at a p...
Marmot Pass is one of the best day hikes in the Olympics! The Upper Quilcene trail starts out at a pretty good grade and stays consistently that way. Beginning in forest, you gain elevation continually opening up to alpine meadows and ridges. For those of us whose first time it was on this trail, it was quite the experience to crest Marmot Pass and see the spectacular view across the Dungeness River valley to the ridge of mountains beyond. It completely blew me away!!! There are many great campsites at both Shelter Rock and Camp Mystery. I would highly recommend a multi-day hike in this area. There are many places to explore using Camp Mystery as a base camp. Hiking to the top of Buckhorn Mountain for the views to the north of the San Juans and Mt Baker being one of them. The profusion of wildflowers was wonderful and I was glad for the late spring and cool summer we have had. Make sure you bring extra clothing and a wind breaker, the wind at the top of the Marmot Pass can cool you down quickly while you're having lunch!
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming, Ripe berries
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An impeccable weekend for hiking- no doubt. The weather and trail conditions were superb and the wif...
An impeccable weekend for hiking- no doubt. The weather and trail conditions were superb and the wife and I had an amazingly enjoyable overnight. We hiked in early and stayed at the Camp Mystery hotel (see packed full by 2pm). We enjoyed day hiking all over the area and photographing the insane wildflower colors which were simply jaw-dropping. Wrapping up our trip with star trails at the trail divide sign and a hike up to Buckhorn Mountain, this is truly a hike not to be missed!!!
 
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Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
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Since the Cascades are still pretty snowy, Rachel and I decided to try the Olympics, even though the...
Since the Cascades are still pretty snowy, Rachel and I decided to try the Olympics, even though they're a pain to get to from Seattle/Kirkland. We're glad we did. The trail (5 miles or so) to Marmot Pass is incredibly beautiful. The first 2+ miles goes lazily through a forest with big trees, mostly hemlock, to some beautiful river-side campsites at "Camp Shelter." The next 2-3 miles climbs gradually through vegetation zones, with yellow cedar and fir replacing the hemlock, to Camp Mystery--which was fairly crowded Saturday night (8/27), but not unbearably so. Some bugs, a little annoying but not biting much. From Camp Mystery to the pass is a bit less than a mile, past a stunning field of flowers--maybe 50 yards wide,extending a quarter mile along the trail, with trees on either side. An old-timer we talked to said the flowers were the best ever. Clumps of white Sitka Valerian, purple lupine, paintbrush, flox, penstemon, buttercups, various daisy-like flowers, lots of elephant head (yes, the flowers really do have two big ears and a trunk), cow parsnips starting to unfold,and others I can't remember. Go right at the pass; in 50 yards the trail ascends to the right to Mt. Buckhorn (summit approx 7000 feet above sea level). You gain about 1000 feet in a mile, but it's worth it. From the top we could see St. Helens, Adams (barely), Rainier, Glacier Peak, Baker, San Juans, Vancouver Island, downtowns Seattle, almost the entire Sound. This view has replaced Mt. Pilchuck as my favorite.
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
Water on trail, Bugs
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The recent trip reports are still accurate, so I’ll only supplement them with a pictorial report: ...
The recent trip reports are still accurate, so I’ll only supplement them with a pictorial report: http://www.flickr.com/[…]/

and these few additions:
ROAD to trailhead is in good shape, a few potholes easily negotiated by our Prius and others’. It’s easy to miss where FS 2750 veers left – measure 9.2 from where you get onto FS27/Big Quilcene Road. There is a sign just before the turn, too.

WTA you are my heroes – the logging, tread, drainage and brushwork made me one incredibly happy hiker – beautiful work!!!! I wish I could have been on that crew (was drooling over the logs – loved the stock re-route around the big guy w/ hiker trail right under the giant!).

Flies are bad, flowers more than make up for it. Which are in bloom? All of them (see pics at link above)!
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
No water source
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We were encouraged to try out this hike due to prior trip reports. Sounded ideal for a quick overni...
We were encouraged to try out this hike due to prior trip reports. Sounded ideal for a quick overnight trip.

We arrived at the trail-head parking lot around 9:00 AM and found it almost full - pulled into the last available spot.

The trail is in great shape with an incredible amount of recent work done clearing fallen trees (some centuries old). Thank you trail crews!

The wildflowers were at their peak so it took longer to get to camp than expected from having to snap so many photos. We arrived and found all the campsites in Camp Mystery available. Only one fit the footprint of our seven foot square tent so we grabbed it. Since it was right next to the spring-fed stream it was a positive from a convenience standpoint, the only negative being a lack of privacy since it was right on the trail. There were a few biting flies and some mosquitoes but as a whole the bugs were not too bad.

We relaxed and had lunch and then packed for a day hike and dinner up at Marmot Pass. It is important to pack enough water since there is NO water at Marmot Pass unless you want to melt snow.

The hike to Marmot Pass from Camp Mystery is wonderful with such a tremendous variety in the meadow displays of flowers. Some seemed to be dominated by one species while others another.

As you approach the pass there is a cirque bowl with a number of very pleasant campsites with much more privacy. The big negative is the lack of water. Folks we talked to reported that they made a daily trip to Camp Mystery to fill up their water containers and then re-ascended the 600 feet of elevation to their campsite.

At the pass we noticed a lot of hikers heading south up a ridge for better views. We decided to head north to see if we could find a level spot to set up our stove and cook dinner. We found a great spot about a half mile north at about 6200 feet of elevation. The views were amazing and it was warm enough to lay out and bask in the sun. No bugs to speak of.

After dinner we headed back to camp to relax and wait for the stars to come out and they were AMAZING. The only irritation was a nearby camp where they had hung an unshielded halogen light while they cooked dinner and beyond. We had to hold up our hands to block the light to be able to see the stars. Oh well...

As a whole this is one of the better hikes I have taken. An excellent trail through old growth forest with a rushing stream emerging to flower clad meadows ascending to a ridge line with panoramic views.

By the way, if any of you find a night guard (for teeth) at Camp Mystery there is a $50 reward (if it fits)... :-)
 
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Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
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Spectacular hike over beautiful tread and very even grade make 5+ miles and 3500 feet just fly by - ...
Spectacular hike over beautiful tread and very even grade make 5+ miles and 3500 feet just fly by - a much easier hike than the stats suggest. Tons of flowers, tons of views, tons of huge trees. A perfect Olympic peninsula hike. Views are mostly of nearby peaks so a day with some clouds this would still be beautiful. No bugs, no snow, no mud. Just about a perfect day on the trail.
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
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Got to the parking lot at noon on a Thursday. It was near full. Weekenders, get an early start. Rea...
Got to the parking lot at noon on a Thursday. It was near full. Weekenders, get an early start. Read about this hike in my best wildflower trailbook, and the earlier trip reports confirmed now is the time for the meadows between Shelter Rock and Camp Mystery. The meadow below the pass will be beautiful in a week or two. There was maybe a 6 foot patch of snow on the trail. There was a lot of water draining down the trail. Wear waterproof boots, gaiters, and bring good gear. Then you can hike the middle of the trail. Do not expand the trail to the left and right. You are in the woods, get dirty. It's fun. I also broke up a fire ring at Camp Mystery. The fire line is 3500 feet and is below Shelter Rock Camp. Please if you hike follow the park guideline and practice Leave No Trace Principles.
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
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Arrived at TH at 8am, 5 cars in the parking lot. Headed up, weather was perfect for walking, brisk b...
Arrived at TH at 8am, 5 cars in the parking lot. Headed up, weather was perfect for walking, brisk but no rain. Myself and 2 brothers have wanted to do this hike for a while, today was the day. Flowers were definatly out in bloom, not sure if a few days more will let them all pop out, but very beautiful. Hit Shelter Rock camp 3 tents, You guys should have packed your garbage out, left garbage bag by tree,,my younger brother hauled it out. Views at top were great as clouds would move in and out, cold, but wonderful. The marmots were looking very healthy and they posed for pics. Great day hike,one of my fav places, could have sat at the top for hours. If you havent done this one....do it. Thanx to all the trail clearing also,,great job.
 
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Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
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Wow! Wildflowers are great. One (maybe the only) advantage of the extraordinarily late thaw is tha...
Wow! Wildflowers are great. One (maybe the only) advantage of the extraordinarily late thaw is that (here, at least) early summer and late summer flowers are blooming together. The result is a spectacular wildflower bloom on the Big Quilcene trail. Some of the early summer species blooms may be a bit less dense than usual (but not by much, if at all), but any such lack is more than made-up-for by the appearance of the late summer ones. The bloom may be a bit past-peak below Camp Mystery, and a bit before peak above it, but it is superb everywhere.

Oh, yes. The views from the Marmot Pass area are terrific, as always.

The blowdowns reported by earlier hikers have been cut out, and the trail is now pretty much a backpacker freeway (and was being used as such).

Two, 3-foot long, level snow crossings above Camp Mystery. Not worth reporting except that it might give a hint as to regional conditions. Speaking of which, if you are thinking of doing the Three Rivers hike, expect a solid sheet of snow on the north side of Constance Pass – everything looked white there except for a few bare rock buttresses. From the distance (and therefore to be taken with a grain of salt), looked like solid snow cover on the trail (probably) down to Home Lake, and maybe even lower. Closer by, there were the usual early summer steepish snow streaks across the trail to Boulder Shelter just past Marmot Pass. Maybe I’m too conservative, but I’d take the ice axe if venturing more than a tenth of a mile or so beyond Marmot toward Boulder. There is also a steep snow slope across the top of the scratch trail to hill 6294 south of the Pass; it may, or may not, be easily bypassable above (we didn’t check). We, and just about everyone else, went up the Buckhorn scratch trail to the north.

For connoisseurs of local mountain weather, we hiked out from under the stratus deck about one mile up the trail. For the rest of the day (until we got back to about the same point on the way down) perfect blue skies above with only an occasional wisp of cloud (above the peaks), and that only for an hour or two after about 1 PM.

Seemed to be very few bugs, although our bug magnet was not along on this day,
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
Bugs
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Took a backpacking trip to Marmot Pass. We left the car at around noon and made our way up the Big ...
Took a backpacking trip to Marmot Pass. We left the car at around noon and made our way up the Big Quilcene under a cool layer of clouds. The sun broke through just as we broke out into the meadows. The wildflowers are spectacular right now! And, as always, the views are superb.

A little after sundown, a bright light shone into our camp. It was like a car's headlamps were directed at the tent. Of course it wasn't a car, but a very, very bright moon. The light was so bright you could see your clearly defined shadow, and even almost distiguish color.

Next morning, we returned to the car under cloudy skies.

The trail was in really good condition all the way to the top. OK, technically there were some mudholes and one little snowpatch...but you wouldn't even notice them or remember them if you weren't planning on writing a trip report. Twas a little buggy too, but where isn't it this time of year?

Inspired by another trip reporter, who is doing 50 hikes at age 50, I've decided to undertake a 30/300/30000 @ 30 challenge. Whilst 30 years of age, I intend to take 30 hikes covering 300 miles with 30,000' of elevation gain. This hike was #10.

1. Deception Pass
2. Wallace Falls
3. Spencer Island
4. E. Fork Foss River
5. Lake Serene
6. Wallace Falls
7. Goat Lake (N. Cascades)
8. Boulder River
9. Third Beach to Toleak Point (Overnight)
10. Big Quilcene/Marmot Pass (Overnight)

So far: 10 Hikes, 91.9 Miles, 18050' Elevation Gain

 
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Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
Snow on trail
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Just finished a gorgeous 3 day hike. Parked at Dungeness Trailhead, and hiked up the Upper Dungeness...
Just finished a gorgeous 3 day hike. Parked at Dungeness Trailhead, and hiked up the Upper Dungeness Trail. Camped first night at Boulder Shelter. Second day we hiked up to Marmot Pass, then onto Buckhorn Pass, and camped at Tubal Cain Mine. Third day we hiked out to the Tubal Cain trailhead, and walked the 4 miles down the road back to the Upper Dungeness trailhead.

Most of the trails were in great shape, with easy river crossings. My main reason for posting this is to warn of some tricky snowbank crossings. Three large snowbanks were between Boulder Shelter and Marmot Pass, and one was between Marmot Pass and Buckhorn Pass.

Ideally you'd have an ice axe to cross these snowbanks. While we (two women in our 30s) managed to cross them just with a hiking pole each, we saw one family with a teenage girl turn back because they didn't want to risk it. Luckily we crossed the snowbanks at the same time as another group with a man experienced in snow hiking, and he cut the trail ahead of us. The walking itself wasn't that tricky, but the snowbanks were long and fairly steep, so if you slipped it would be quite a long slide down. On one of them we hiked down the mountain off the trail a ways, and crossed the snowbank at a narrower part, then hiked back up. But it was still a little slippery and dicey where we crossed.

I wouldn't recommend trying to cross the snowbanks if there's been a freeze and you were unable to kick into the snow with your boots, unless you had crampons.

There were also some more snowbanks between Buckhorn Pass and Buckhorn Lake, but these were easier to cross and didn't pose any real risks.

All that said, we absolutely loved the hike, especially the wildflowers, which were just spectacular. Hit a few bugs at Boulder Shelter, but they didn't bother us much. We were a little disappointed with the mining junk around the Tubal Cain campground, especially the long metal strips in the creek that resonate in the river like a techno party.

But we thoroughly recommend the hike, especially in this year with so many trails completely under snow.
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
Blowdowns, Water on trail
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At long last we made the time to do Marmot Pass. We wholeheartedly agree that this is one hike you ...
At long last we made the time to do Marmot Pass. We wholeheartedly agree that this is one hike you must do in the Olympics. Exceptional beauty and breathtaking views as well as a nice challenging hike combine to make this one of the best.

It was a cool partly cloudy day, temps in the 60's and maybe low 70's. Perfect for hiking. We had 7 in our party and of course our beagle Yogi. She is almost 13 and still hiking every trail with us. She had no problem on this hike - what a dog!

There were a few down trees across the trail and some muddy spots but nothing too bad. Lots of folks going in to camp for the weekend and a few couples coming out from spending a few days camping. As always, everyone we met was very friendly.

The abundance of vibrantly colored wildflowers added to the aura of the day. Surely they testify of the handiwork of God. The towering cliffs around the ridge of the valley stand like sentinels guarding our way. One feels so small when surrounded by some much immensity. The vista from the pass seems to stretch forever and the photos hardly capture the glory of the moment. The tranquil silence is pierced every so often by the piercing whistle of the marmots. You must go see, feel, and experience this one for yourself.
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
Blowdowns
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It was a dreary day at sea level but when we got to the trail head we were above the marine layer an...
It was a dreary day at sea level but when we got to the trail head we were above the marine layer and our spirits lifted. The wildflowers on the way up to the pass were so overly abundant it must have taken us an hour to walk through the meadows. We have never seen this many wildflowers on this hike before. When we finally did reach the pass we were greeted with no wind and warm sun peaking through the clouds. We sat at the pass over an hour splayed out like marmots sunning themselves. Although we did not see any marmots - drats!

Some of the flowers spotted were: Chocolate lily, Larkspur, Indian Paintbrush, Lewisia, Tiger lilies, Valerian, Stream Orchid, Phlox, Sub-alpine Daisy, Columbines, Violets, Worm Seed Mustard, Smooth Douglasia, Rock Cress, Sedums, Bunchberries, and many more. We even spotted a Trillium still in white bloom at Shelter Rock.
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
Blowdowns, Water on trail, Snow on trail
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I agree with WTA - one of the greatest hikes in the Olympics! Amazing waterfalls in the first secti...
I agree with WTA - one of the greatest hikes in the Olympics! Amazing waterfalls in the first section, beautiful wildflower meadows in the second section, & scenic views of so many peaks from the top.

Watch for a few nasty potholes on the access road. On the first trail section, lots of mud(slippery in many places), so take appropriate shoes. Two downed trees in the first couple miles that were a bit of a pain to get by. A fair number of hikers & backpackers, especially for a Monday, but great fun conversing with them. Met a fair number of families with children, some I'd guess under 10yrs old(what a great family outing!). We didn't go on up Buckhorn Peak from the Pass, but those returning from it said views of Mt. Rainier are great from up there. You can see Glacier Peak and other Cascade mountains south of it from the pass itself. Take binoculars to get a better view of the nearby Olympic peaks, like Mt. Deception.

The wildflowers were so numerous! And dozens of different kinds! So be sure and take a camera.. In some places the steep meadows had huge areas were completely carpeted with paintbrush, lupine, phlox, lillies & others.
 
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Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
Blowdowns, Mudholes
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Hit the trail around noon. Parking lot was very full, saw many people going down as we headed up to...
Hit the trail around noon. Parking lot was very full, saw many people going down as we headed up to mystery. Everyone kept telling us how dry and clear it was at the pass, but for the first 2 hours or so we hiked through a lot of rain and wetness. Oh and there were two really big trees that fell over on the lower part of the trail. First one you have to crawl under (moderately difficult with big backpacks) and the second one you can just kinda hop up and walk around so not too bad.

We were about to set up camp at mystery them some hikers coming down said there were better camp sites up above, big enough for only one tent. We went up there and found the few they were talking about but they did not seem very convenient for us. No water and lots of exposure. So we headed back down to mystery with our stupidly heavy packs and called it a day.

Next day was great. Scrambled up to some little peak south of the pass first. Then went over and summited buckhorn. Great views up here! We could see Baker, Glacier Peak, Rainier, Adams, and Mt St Helens all at once. It was amazing. It was very hot at this point and really sunny. Buckhorn just gets baked. Theres hardly any trees or shade on the mountain. Luckily there was a cool breeze at the top but we still got really sun burnt.

We then headed back down and packed up camp and hiked back to the parking lot. Saw a fair amount of people on the way down but probably a little less than on Sunday. I was surprised by how busy this place is.
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
Mudholes, Water on trail, Snow on trail
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Arrived at the trailhead around 8:45am and the lot was full of hikers getting ready while others wer...
Arrived at the trailhead around 8:45am and the lot was full of hikers getting ready while others were hitting the trail. However once on the trail everyone was pretty spread out. Since I was only doing this as a day hike I moved past a number of groups with overnight packs early on and had the trail to myself for most of the hike. There were a couple of large trees down which you needed to go over or under on the lower third of the trail and a number of small streams which need to be stepped over or through. The various streams kept my dog cooled down however it does dry out as you get closer to Camp Mystery and the trail is more exposed to the sun. Some wildflowers were in bloom in meadows below the camp area. Started to run into a fair amount of snow after the camping area and up the ridgeline to the left of the pass but overall the trail was in great shape. I would recommend hiking up the ridge to the left of the pass because it flattens out on top and the views into the Olympics are spectacular.
This is the second time I have done this as a day hike and will have to try it as an overnight hike next time but without my dog considering the number of people.
 
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Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
Blowdowns, Water on trail, Snow on trail, Bugs
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Marmot Pass is a northwest classic that has something for everyone. If you don't feel like hiking th...
Marmot Pass is a northwest classic that has something for everyone. If you don't feel like hiking the whole trail, you can enjoy the lower portion that meanders through forest along picturesque Big Quilcene River. Tired feet can be revived in the river's glacier water. Oh, what a feeling! The path through the forest is quite muddy in some places so waterproof boots are recommended. The patches of snow after Camp Mystery obscures the trial in some places and is quite slushy and slippery in the afternoon. There were few mosquitos but the blow flies (?) are quite pesky. I wore long pants/long sleeved top and that helped keep them at bay. Swatting with a stick doesn't help! By the time we arrived (9:30 AM), the parking lot was almost full. The benefit of arriving later is that you practically have the trail to yourself (until Camp Mystery). I have to give a shout out to the WTA folks who are doing a fine job of maintaining this trail.

It's a long drive from the main road to the trailhead: FSR # 27 is 9.5 miles and FSR #2750 is another 4.7 miles to the upper trailhead. But, the roads are in good condition with a few nasty potholes as you get closer to the parking lot. I noticed some people driving way too fast on these one lane roads. Please do everyone a favor and drive cautiously as there will be other hikers returning from the trail.
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
Snow on trail
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What a fantastic hike. Not much to add to the previous TRs from this day, except that we continued u...
What a fantastic hike. Not much to add to the previous TRs from this day, except that we continued up the trail towards Buckhorn Mountain to the right of the pass. We were glad that we continued up from the pass as the extra credit portion gave us a sense of being on the roof of the peninsula with views in every direction.

The great thing about this hike is that it's not just about the views at the end. The old growth forest of the first few miles was some of the loveliest I have hiked through.
 
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Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
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Ridiculous. Stay away. Please. It's a hideous hike. The bugs will eat you alive. Video here: Http:...
Ridiculous. Stay away. Please. It's a hideous hike. The bugs will eat you alive.
Video here:
Http://vimeo.com/levyfilms/buckhorn
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
Blowdowns, Mudholes, Water on trail, Snow on trail
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Clouds never broke, so we hiked mostly in the mist. Good thing about cool temps though was there wer...
Clouds never broke, so we hiked mostly in the mist. Good thing about cool temps though was there were no bugs! At the pass, the sun tried hard to shine through but alas, no blue skies. However, we were blessed with fleeting peek-a-boo views of the vast Olympics while we ate our lunch.

Muddy, muddy trail with several water crossings, none of which require you to get your feet wet. Three large blow-downs in the couple of miles, but all can be climbed over or under. Small patches of snow start just below Camp Mystery and continue for the last 3/4 mile to the pass, although there are long stretches where the trail is dry, including at the pass itself. The snow is well consolidated and easy to tread, and orange/pink flags mark the way. Camp Mystery is now entirely free of snow.

Not many wildflowers out along the way, except for two hillsides on the last third of the hike covered in a riot of purples, reds, yellows, pinks, and whites.

Directions to the Trail head can be confusing and every time I hike Marmot Pass or Mt. Townsend, I have to guess which Y to take: Drive US 101 along Hood Canal to 0.9 miles south of the Quilcene Ranger Station. Turn west on Penny Creek Road, go 1.4 miles and take the left fork (signed to Mt Townsend and Big Quilcene River Road). At the next fork, take right onto Big Quilcene River Road. This becomes FR 27 and at one point veers 90 degrees to the left. At 11 miles from US 101, come to FR 2750; turn left for 4.5 miles to the trailhead, Big Quilcene Trail No. 833.

STATISTICS:
Round Trip: 10.6 miles
Hiking Time In: 3:00
Time Out: 2:10
Elevation Gain: 3500 ft (2500-6000 ft)
Green Trails Map No. 136 Tyler Peak
Permits: Northwest Forest Pass
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
Blowdowns, Mudholes, Water on trail, Snow on trail
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Not much to add to the previous hiker's report from 7/23/11. Trail is rather muddy for first few mi...
Not much to add to the previous hiker's report from 7/23/11. Trail is rather muddy for first few miles. No snow until a couple small patches right before Camp Mystery. Most campsites melted out, though lots of people were up this weekend and we had to be a bit creative to make a spot. Trail from Mystery to the pass is probably 30% snow covered, but well-trodden and very negotiable. Way trail up to Buckhorn Mountain is completely dry and snow free. From Buckhorn, you can see the amazing amount of snow that lingers in the high country.

Ryan Farncomb
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
Blowdowns, Mudholes, Washouts, Water on trail, Snow on trail
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Lots of folks had the same idea, drawn by the prospect of an excellent weather forecast, for a chang...
Lots of folks had the same idea, drawn by the prospect of an excellent weather forecast, for a change.

Finding about 20 cars at the trailhead, I headed up the trail a bit before 10. Lots of mud on the lower half or so of the trail. Two big trees across the trail just below the first big switchback (photo), otherwise nothing other than a spot or two with a little serious erosion due to washout, and a couple of other rough spots due to uprooted trees. The trail is in great shape.

Encountered snow patches just prior to Camp Mystery (which was crowded). Most campsites are melted out. There was snow in the trees here and there above the first meadow above Camp Mystery. The trail in the open above the trees around the upper basin is mostly clear, as is the pass proper (photo). The scramble trail from the pass to Buckhorn Mtn is clear. Lots of snow still in the upper basin.

My turnaround was atop the flat hump to the south of the pass. Need to be comfortable on steep snow to get up there. Views, as usual, were outstanding. Good vantage point to check out snow conditions in this area of the Olympics. Spent up couple of nights here a few years ago, and enjoyed my return. This year Home Lake and Constance Pass are still under LOTS of snow (photo). No surprise.

The sun and warmth of the day seemed to perk up the wildflower show. Maybe I just noticed them more in the low angle late day sun, but I felt there were of them open on the descent than were on the way up.

... and no bugs!

 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
Blowdowns, Mudholes, Water on trail, Snow on trail
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Also not too much to add to the other two trip reports from this weekend. To our delight, there were...
Also not too much to add to the other two trip reports from this weekend. To our delight, there were no bugs. Mud, water, and snow on the trail were easy to get across. The longest stretch of snow was about 100 yards, shortly before arriving at the pass - look for the pink/orange ribbons showing where the trail heads to the right and continues snow-free. Views from the pass, and from the trail up Buckhorn Mountain, were incredible. We camped at Mystery, which was quite crowded, but would have been very nice during the week. My husband saw one group that had built a small campfire - hopefully the only one there this summer. We also saw several groups headed up to the ridge just south of the pass to camp, although the way up was still covered with snow.
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
Mudholes, Water on trail, Snow on trail
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My daughter and I decided to try for Marmot Pass as our hike together this summer. We saw shafts of...
My daughter and I decided to try for Marmot Pass as our hike together this summer. We saw shafts of sun through the clouds and hope springs eternal for PNW hikers. The road in was good and there was only one car at the trailhead. Trail crews had very recently been in and cleared the blowdowns (Thank You), There was a lot of mud on the trail and many small stream crossings, and some water on the trail,but hey, isn't that what boots are for? The first real snow was at Mystery Camp but the trail was melted out quite a bit and easy to follow. The meadows were a bright carpet of red paintbrush, even in the clouds,which had now moved in and covered all views in that moutain mist. We ran into solid snow about a half mile from the top and turned around. We figured there was no point in picking our way through snow if we couldn't see anything. This is a beautiful hike through forest and meadow and we hope we can come back on a nice day!
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
Blowdowns, Mudholes, Water on trail, Snow on trail
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Clear of snow first 3.25 miles to elev 3650 ft where there are several snow patches on trail. Then c...
Clear of snow first 3.25 miles to elev 3650 ft where there are several snow patches on trail. Then clear to Shelter Rock camp where there are a few patches and water running down the trail. Then clear to just below Camp Mystery. Snow is nearly continuous from Mystery to Marmot Pass, with a short patch of trail here and there melted out, snow is firm and easy walking.
Saw a bear in one of the steep meadows below Mystery, sitting contently in a field of Indian Paintbrush. One campsite at Mystery is mostly melted out, but others have 2-5 feet of snow on them.
Trailhead is posted that WTA crew has reserved Shelter Rock for a work party next weekend July 15-17. Thank you in advance to those who are going to work on the blowdowns etc!
 
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Olympics -- East
Blowdowns, Water on trail
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A drizzly day, so we turned around at an area with multiple windfalls about 1.6 miles in. Trail is ...
A drizzly day, so we turned around at an area with multiple windfalls about 1.6 miles in. Trail is snow free up to this point (3100 ft) with a few other blowdowns and some mushy spots. We'll have to return when the weather is nicer.
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming, Fall foliage
Blowdowns, Water on trail, Snow on trail
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First hike to Upper Big Quilcene..what beautiful country. No problem getting to the trailhead... the...
First hike to Upper Big Quilcene..what beautiful country. No problem getting to the trailhead... there are quite a few blow downs across the trail, so be ready to crouch and climb. At the two mile mark there is still snow on the ground and I lost the trail. So decided to come back another day. River is really flowing...took some great pictures, can't wait to go again...invite me ...Goldntrash@aol.com

 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
Blowdowns, Snow on trail, Avalanche danger
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Trailhead is accessible, there was no other cars at the trailhead though and still patches of snow o...
Trailhead is accessible, there was no other cars at the trailhead though and still patches of snow on the ground. Trail itself is blocked by some fallen trees and mostly covered by snow and because of that it is not easy to see the trail. We hiked a bit above it trough several open areas covered by avy debris (snow, rocks, broken trees). Some fresh snow too, but it was quite warm. After Marmot pass we followed the ridge to Buckhorn Mountain. Surprisingly there is a lot less snow on the ridge, probably because it gets blown away by the wind. Some areas are completely bare and have first wildflowers. Ridge is very easy to follow. I have taken my snowshoes, ice axe and crampons, but ended up not using any of that.
 
Olympics -- East
Fall foliage
Mud/Rockslide, Mudholes, Water on trail, Snow on trail
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In spite of a poor weather forecast I decided not to let weather dictate my plans this weekend. I de...
In spite of a poor weather forecast I decided not to let weather dictate my plans this weekend. I decided to see how my son would handle this hike (he's 7). We left at 1200 and it ws 6 hours round trip to the top and back. The going was a little slower pace than I'm used to. I'd taken him on a hike to Mt. Zion last week and handled it well. The weather was terrible. We passed 3 groups of hikers who were coming down the trail toward the trailhead.

Although I marked the "Hiked by Kids" box I wouldn't think about repeating this hike with my son-at least under these unfavorable conditions.

Luckily I packed enough clothing for an orphanage and filled his pockets with those 4-hour hand warmers which seemed to do the trick keeping him comfortable.

The rain turned to snow at about 5400 feet and got more thick and wind-driven toward the top (6000) (6010' per my GPS). The weather felt blizard-like and the temperature had dropped quite significantly. We stopped long enough for the attached picture(s) as proof. We encountered a friendly hunter who said he was "taking is gun for a walk"-cute couple. I warned him about the weather and he passed us on his way back out before we made it to the trailhead. Only wildlife was one rabbit-I'm guessing he also survived today.
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming, Fall foliage
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Left at 1100 HRS, weather was clear and cool. Hiked to Marmot pass, part of Tubal Cain trail then ba...
Left at 1100 HRS, weather was clear and cool. Hiked to Marmot pass, part of Tubal Cain trail then back by way of Buckhorn Mountain. The view from Buckhorn were amazing and worth the hike. The wind was blowing very strong near the top. I'd leave any heavy packs at the bottom of the trail, some 4 point climbing and a fall here onto the sharp rocks would be no fun.

The trails were clear with no down trees and a few small sections of water. I had waterproof trail running shoes which were sufficient. I only saw a few chipmunks, which I could almost feed by hand at the top of Buckhorn Mnt.

I'd planned on making this about a 10 HR trip or so but flu-like symptoms cut it short. Regardless I ran most of the trail from Buckhorn back to the trailhead. I spotted a couple of very nice campsites right along the river which I will be making use of next year when it's warmer. I would highly suggest this hike. Pretty steep, trekking poles would be a good idea and dress in layers the temp changes pretty quickly.
 
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Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming, Fall foliage
Water on trail, Bugs
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For our first backpack trip of the year, we followed some sound advice and chose Marmot Pass/Buckhor...
For our first backpack trip of the year, we followed some sound advice and chose Marmot Pass/Buckhorn Ridge for an overnighter. After leaving the 535am Ferry, we arrived at the trailhead by 7:45am, and had our tent set up at Camp Mystery by 11:45am.

We immediately notice a ton of flies, big ones and small, that literally would just swarm you. We were pretty surprised as other posts said that there were no bugs. Quite a few bits from these flies, but no real bees or mosquito to worry about so I guess its a trade off.

After setting up camp, we headed up to Marmot Pass to spectacular views. We then decided to limp up the rest of the way to Buckhorn Ridge, and although it was pretty rough for two out of shape 20'somethings, it was well worth the views.

From there we spent a great night at camp, woke up and cruised back down to the t railhead in about 2 hours. Overall it was a great hike, the trail was simply to follow and very well maintained. Would do it again in a heartbeat.
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
Snow on trail, Bugs
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I have been wanting to do this trip after reading Mike and Gary's 2003 trip report http://www.wta.or...
I have been wanting to do this trip after reading Mike and Gary's 2003 trip report http://www.wta.org/[…]/tripreport-2003090704.

We found their directions for finding the way trail, and over all hike description, to be very good. I do want to underline that the way trail down the scree trail to Upper Charlia is sketchy and difficult, especially with packs. Poles would probably be a hindrance as you may want to use your hands. The slope is very steep and the scree is hardpacked in places with a thin layer of slippery loose pebbles on top. It is 9.6 miles each way, according to our GPS, from the Big Quilcene trailhead.

 Our party, consisting of D and A, 2 excited teenagers and a 12 year old, got a late start on a Saturday. The trail begins in a beautiful old growth forest with majestic trees and small flowery meadows. It was intensely hot and we all stopped at the first stream to soak our hiking clothes. At crowded Camp Mystery we filled a water carrier with 10 liters, intending to make a dry camp at Marmot Pass, but found that area to be too crowded for our taste and we continued on to the trail junction near the Boulder shelter, where we found a campsite in a pretty meadow with no other campers within view. So we didn't need to carry the water, but at least carrying it was good exercise (for one of the teenagers, not me!).

The next day we were expecting a short easy hike to the lakes. At the trail junction with the way trail there is a sign indicating the Home Lake trail to the right--we went left on the unmarked trail. The way trail at first is very established. It climbs through alpine meadows to a ridge, then turns northeast to climb a steep slope to the saddle overlooking upper Charlia. The way down looked scary and the scree proved to be just as slippery as it looked, and where hard packed was very difficult, so we elected to cross the steep snow field to climb down the steady rocks on the southside. If experienced on steep snow and carrying ice axes and wearing gloves the best way would be to plunge step down the snow or even, if skilled, glissade. But none of the kids had much snow experience. The less experienced left their packs behind. D kicked steps across the snow field for them, but they still found it scary. D retrieved the packs and the rest of the down climb felt like a pleasant stroll in contrast. Still, these 2 miles took about 4 tiring hours.

Lower Charlia lived up to our high expectations and we had it all to ourselves, which is good, because there is only one nice campsite. Most of the lake shore is very steep, and the southside still holds snow. The campsite by the inlet easily held our three small tents. Unfortunately some previous slobs had left it rather trashed with lots of broken glass, rusty tin cans and a trash filled fire ring, but we cleaned it up quite a bit. The next day we had a rest day, fishing, swimming, scrambling up to a pass to the north overlooking the Quilcene, and circling the lake on the rough way trail.

We hiked all the way out out in one pretty long, hot day. The only hard part was the 500 feet from Upper Charlia to the pass--a difficult scramble up the steep scree. There is a faint zig zag trail to follow but it is very steep and slippery. We decided it probably would have been easier to climb the rocks and cross the snowfield at the top again or even climb the snowfield. We had a chance to test this theory when G's water bottle fell out of his pack and slid all the way to the bottom. D lept at the chance to glissade down, retrieve the bottle, and climb up the snow. No iceaxe, but the snow was soft enough to arrest without one if you know how.

Great trip.

Blueberries--still small and green in the subalpine areas, ripe and sour in the lower woods.

Snow--One moderate snowfield to cross with nice steps already kicked between Marmot Pass and Home Lake. Ice axe not needed here, but could be useful for the steep slope above Upper Charlia.

Bugs--biting flies during the day, mosquitos at dusk and dawn. Tolerable.


 
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Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
Blowdowns, Water on trail
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One of the nices hikes in this area EVER! This is the time to go to Marmot pass. The lower part of t...
One of the nices hikes in this area EVER! This is the time to go to Marmot pass. The lower part of the trail (first 2.5 miles) is in forest, has a good duff layer making it easy on your feet and is green as a bean. See banana slugs, douglas squirrels and early mushrooms as well as fine bunchberry, pipsissewa and clintonia. Then the trail steepened as we entered stream after stream with tall larkspur, lots of bog orchids and early monkey flowers (more later in the summer I'm sure). The trail breaks out into the open after about 3 miles and then the meadows begin. The flowers are blazing and profuse. Larkspur seems psychedelic. There were desert parsley growing next to attractive broomrape (which are parasitic on them), clustered onion, columbine, tiger lily, phlox on and off rocks, lupine in profusion, paintbrush (common, harsh and magenta [higher up]). Past camp mystery at 4.5 miles the amble has some mud and water on the trail, but who cares with the views of buckhorn. The day, which started sunny, became foggy with swirling fog and occasional sun breaks. Who noticed? There were pussytoes all over the place (racemose, alpine, rosy and woolly). Scarcely an inch was not covered with flower beds in various striking combinations. At the top (a steep final push) it was fog behind us and blue in front. We sat in the sun with our late lunches (we stopped a lot in awe) and watched the mist swirl down below us, revealing and concealing. Above the pass I noted 10 species I'd seen nowhere else, including douglasia, a white locoweed, sickletop lousewort, and alpine smelowskia. I am left with some new flowers to identify. The species list for this area is immense. We had trouble leaving the top. And there were marmots. This hike has almost 3500' elevation gain, though it is not too steep anywhere. We flowed down the trail. Marmot pass is over 6000' and the sun can be burning at that altitude so make sure to take sunscreen. There were no insects to speak of, a blessing. I wish I could stay there to greet you when you come.
 
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Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
Water on trail
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Left the parking lot late (about 1 p.m.) and returned at 7 p.m. after a trip to the pass. Fog from b...
Left the parking lot late (about 1 p.m.) and returned at 7 p.m. after a trip to the pass. Fog from bottom to top with a little light rain. The trail is in good shape with some running water in spots but these were easy to cross. One small patch of snow (approx 15 ft long) to cross above Camp Mystery but that's it. 10 cars in the lot, passed 4 parties that were coming down and passed one coming up. Several tent sites in use. Plenty of water. No bugs. Lot's of wildflowers! Wish we could have seen the view we've heard so much about...next time.
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
Mudholes, Water on trail, Snow on trail
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This was my first backpack in several years, and my wife's first trip ever. After getting her equip...
This was my first backpack in several years, and my wife's first trip ever. After getting her equipped at last, I knew I needed to find a backpacking trip that would impress her. Marmot Pass suited that purpose quite well.

We arrived at the trailhead on Saturday at around 7:30am. Not a typical morning. The weather was a bit damp, and so only two other cars were parked.

The trail starts out gingerly for about 1.50-2 miles, following the river. After that the climb becomes much more precipitous. Below Camp Mystery, several of the steep meadows/chutes contained a full variety of blooming wildflowers, a highlight of the trip.

Unfamiliar with the area, we weighed our camping options. We decided to push beyond Camp Mystery the remaining 0.75 miles and 600-800 feet to the pass itself. Nobody was camping in the area, so we hiked south along the ridge and found a small clearing on the ridge itself to setup camp. It was windy and showery, but we enjoyed the occasional views of the surrounding mountains and the sweeping view of the Dungeness Valley to the west. We saw quite a few marmots in the basin below the pass. The best part was spending the night in absolute solitude (a far cry from car camping) and waking up to rapidly improving weather. It was cold though - perhaps low-mid 40s with a stiff breeze.

The trip down felt just as long as the trip up, and we found it hard to believe we had climbed all that way.

Trail conditions were generally very good and highly navigable. Some easy stream crossings in the first couple miles. Above Camp Mystery, the trail became very muddy in some spots. You will have to cross a few patches of snow, but the last stretch and the pass itself is entirely snow-free. Very few bugs. I was bitten once while filtering water near Camp Mystery, and that was it.

Overall, a very enjoyable trip.
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
Water on trail
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Road to trailhead is in great shape, trail is in good condition, very few bugs, incredible views of ...
Road to trailhead is in great shape, trail is in good condition, very few bugs, incredible views of the Olympics, and the wildflowers are in their prime. Now is the time to go!

If you go, do take the trail heading south from the pass, going up a ridge. This leads to much better views and beautiful meadows and more ridges to explore. Also a couple of camp sites, which are nicer than those in Camp Mystery or below the pass (no water, though, so stock up just beforehand).

There are some lingering snow patches and some water on the trail/mud around Camp Mystery, but nothing too bad.

Camped overnight on a Friday and pretty much had the entire place to myself after the day hikers left. Not too many backpackers headed in on Saturday, but the weather was also not as nice.
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
Water on trail, Snow on trail
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Had to park along the road as the parking lot was already full at 10am. The road (some gravel, but m...
Had to park along the road as the parking lot was already full at 10am. The road (some gravel, but mostly paved) was in good condition, the few potholes were marked and flagged for repair.

The trail was in good condition, too, just a few small stream crossings, some muddy patches around Camp Mystery, and a few small, well-consolidated patches of snow on the trail between Camp Mystery and Marmot Pass.

Encountered more people than I cared to count, and all the camping spots from Camp Mystery to Marmot Pass looked crowded. Continued up to Pt 6294, which, counter to appearances from below, was free of snow and had several great sites, all unoccupied (two other parties showed up later, but camped out of sight).

The trail from Marmot Pass up to the west summit of Buckhorn Mountain was easy to follow and completely clear of snow. Some class 2 scrambling just below the summit.

Lots of wildflowers on the slopes below Camp Mystery, especially Red Columbine and some kind of Stonecrop on slopes with less soil. Heard and saw several marmots in the basin below Marmot Pass. Few bugs.
 
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Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
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Wildflower heaven on the trail up to Marmot Pass. Must have been over a dozen species in bloom, inc...
Wildflower heaven on the trail up to Marmot Pass. Must have been over a dozen species in bloom, including wild ginger. The rock gardens before you get to the pass are spectacular. And the only bugs were a few annoying wasps. Nothing else. I don't get it. Where are the mosquitoes. Trail is clear up to Camp Mystery. A few very small remaining snow fields up to the pass. Nothing that even this person who hates hiking on snow couldn't handle.
 
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Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
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Finally made it to Marmot Pass and what an incredible place-wish I had backpacked. There were tons ...
Finally made it to Marmot Pass and what an incredible place-wish I had backpacked. There were tons of tents at Camp Mystery, in the meadows below the pass, and at the pass - which explains the 25 cars in the parking lot at 7:30am! It never felt crowded however. Lots of little streams on the way up for the pup. Checked in the meadows that I passed for bears nothing on the way up however descending there he was snacking away turned and looked at us and then went back to eating. Spent quite a bit of time at the pass soaking in the views and then ventured a bit down the Tubal Caine trail and found a nice place to veg. Enjoyed watching 2 mountain goats -one venturing down Buckhorn Mt. behind a group of people before taking an animal track traversing the mountain and another coming down the knoll off to the left venturing towards the pass.
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
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This hike had it all. Pleasant river walk, sunny vistas, steady climbs, sloped meadows of wildflowe...
This hike had it all. Pleasant river walk, sunny vistas, steady climbs, sloped meadows of wildflowers, wildlife, and stunning views from the pass.

Two friends and I overnighted just beneath the pass, and we weren't alone. On the sign-in sheet at the trailhead, we counted 18 other overnight parties ahead of us. By nightfall, I would estimate at least 30 tents between Camp Mystery and the top of Buckhorn. Fortunately, there were enough options that we never felt cramped.

Sunset was brilliant, and the moonrise was unlike anything I'd ever seen. Bright enough to read by, casting long shadows across the snow fields.

Lots of marmots playing around the aptly named pass. Also loads of chipmunks, a few hawks, several other birds. On the way down, we saw a large black bear roughly 150 yards off the trail in one of the wildflower slopes. Very few bugs, and none of us were bit.

There was a little snow and water on the trail, but nothing worth worrying about. Highly recommended.
 
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Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
Blowdowns
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I climbed the mountains and got their good tidings on Saturday and boy I was glad I did. The Marmot ...
I climbed the mountains and got their good tidings on Saturday and boy I was glad I did. The Marmot Pass trail is well maintained and has only two logs down over the tread. The day began, and ended, cloudy, but this hike rewarded anyway. The river is truly beautiful as it rushes and frolics down the valley. The rhododendrons were blooming down low, and as I climbed higher the ground cover flowers were blooming along the avalanche slopes. The hike is straightforward and beautiful to Camp Mystery. That is where you hit solid snow. Some folks turned around there, but really, there is no hazard getting up to the pass itself. The snow this time of year is consolidated and corny, and other than making sure you doing bust a leg by dropping into a hole, it is easy walking. The pass itself is up and towards the right from Camp Mystery.
I got there and exalted in the happiness of being up high. Before reaching the pass I had the great fortune to see a Clarks Nutcracker, which always make me happy because you only see them up high in the mountains. They are harbingers of clean air and alpine beauty. I also saw a snowshoe hare, though no goats.
Although the day was uniformly cloudy, I had the good luck of a quick clearing while at the pass and so was able to see across and down the Dungeness valley. Spectacular. The hike down was tons of fun in the forgiving snow and then fast once I hit trail. Although a respectable climb, it is pleasant the whole way and never feels like you are just working out in the mountains. Very beautiful and rewarding.
Highly recommended. My guess is that it will be July 24th before all the snow is gone, but that’s only a guess and it shouldn’t hold you back. Saw maybe 15 other people on the trail. Not alone, but not crowded. No bugs.
 
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Olympics -- East
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This was a spectacular trip to an area I hadn't been to in awhile. Joining me was Yo yo, Pink Pants,...
This was a spectacular trip to an area I hadn't been to in awhile. Joining me was Yo yo, Pink Pants, Blissman and Phlemy. We had gorgeous weather on Saturday and started out in perfect conditions........sunny skies, cool temps, and no bugs! We encountered some patchy snow just before Camp Mystery, but solid snow from there on. The route was a little confusing with foot prints everywhere, but just heading up was the way to go. I'm sure there are switchbacks from Camp Mystery to the Pass, but under snow it's just kick step up and up. Shortly before arriving at the Pass we encountered George and Mo who were there for the day. It's always nice to run into friends in the mountains. After a break at the Pass we looked around for a camping spot. I was OK with camping on the snow, but Yo Yo remembered a favorite spot he'd been to before. I'm glad I listened to him because we found a perfect spot a few hundred feet above the Pass on a nice, bare knoll with some of the most spectacular views to be found anywhere! The evening was fine and we went on some explorations around the area with plans to go to Buckhorn and the basin above Tubal Cane on Sunday. It rained Saturday night, but was dry if foggy on Sunday. Undaunted, we decided to go up Buckhorn anyhow. It's a very easy trip with a trail to the first summit. However, no views were to be had for us that day. I didn't mind too much since I'd been there a couple of years ago and could almost remember them. Besides, we had a fabulous day on Saturday so who's to complain? The wind picked up on our way back to camp and it was cold as well. I'd woke up that morning with a sore throat and felt sicker by the minute. We blasted on out of there and by the time we got to the car I was toast! Achy, scratchy, hot and cold chills. I couldn't wait to get home to bed. We drove on to the Port Townsend ferry only to be told that the ferries were full for the night. We'd shown up 1 1/2 hours before the next to the last was to sail and we figured we'd at least make the last one. No such luck. We drove down to Kingston and got on after an hour wait. Lucky for me Blissman and Pink Pants kept me company in my misery and distracted me from how crappy I felt. It was a great weekend over all and I'm glad that I went, but I learned one thing for sure......make reservations ahead of time for the Port Townsend ferry!
 
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Olympics -- East
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Trail condition is excellent all the way to the pass, and beyond. No snow accumulation on the trail....
Trail condition is excellent all the way to the pass, and beyond. No snow accumulation on the trail. The ground is beginning to freeze starting around 5300', and some new snow accumulation was visible in the crevices on the north-facing cliffs above the last mile of trail before the pass. Buckhorn Mtn is still snow-free to the summit, so far as I could see from the pass.

Measured temp at the pass was 37F @ 12:15 pm under a mostly clear sky. It was beautiful, with a nice vista to the west, but the view didn't last long.

I climbed the ridge south of the pass to approx. 6200', and would have gone farther along the ridge except that the clear weather abruptly began to deteriorate.

In about half an hour, visibility went from miles to intermittently less than a hundred yards, and light, freezing sleet started blowing over the windward face of the ridge. The very fast approach of a towering Wall of White up-valley from the NE (along the route of the Tubal Cain trail) was quite dramatic to watch. I decided that was probably a good time to reduce my exposure by getting off the ridge, and reluctantly turned around at about 1pm.

On the way down the weather continued to roll in very fast, quickly enough that by the time I reached the meadow below the pass the nearby cliffs were completely obscured and the temp was falling rapidly. By that time, the cloud cover was solid. This is a beautiful hike, and a great time of year to do it, but if you go you better be ready for sudden, radical changes of weather.



 
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Olympics -- East
Fall foliage
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The trail to Marmot Pass is in great shape and it makes its 10.6 round-trip length considerably easi...
The trail to Marmot Pass is in great shape and it makes its 10.6 round-trip length considerably easier than some of the shorter trails I've taken this year. There were six other cars at the trailhead when we arrived at 10:15, and several other parties arrived later. This is a popular trail, even on a cold and cloudy day, such as this one. The first 2.6 miles to Shelter Rock Camp goes through gorgeous forest along and above the Big Quilcene. There are a number of giant first-growth trees along this route. Luckily, the clouds were high enough to allow us good views when the trail entered the open slopes and boulder fields. I could see Glacier Peak and other Cascade peaks to the east, which seemed sunny in the far distance, whereas our skies were thick with clouds. We stopped for lunch at Camp Mystery, and glad we did, because even there it was so cold we had to wear gloves to eat. We figured that the Pass would be even colder. Some descending backpackers told us that it was snowing up there as they left the pass, earlier that morning. The snow had stopped and most of it had melted by the time we got to the pass, but the views west were still obscurred by clouds. There was no point in climbing the several hundred feet up the knoll to the south of the pass, which we usually do when we hike this trail. There would be no view of Mount Constance. Besides, because the days are getting much shorter, we didn't want it to become dark before we finished the hike.
 
Olympics -- East
Fall foliage
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Awesome! What an experience. I spent the weekend backpacking through the area with a few fellow men ...
Awesome! What an experience. I spent the weekend backpacking through the area with a few fellow men from church. Blessed with absolutely beautiful weather all weekend long, we could not have asked for a better day to be up in the mountains. We started at the Tubal Cain Mine trail head and camped near the B-17 crash site in Tullis Canyon the first night. The next day we headed out to Marmot Pass. It was another glorious day with a few clouds passing through. Along the way, we stopped for lunch at Buckhorn Lake...although Buckhorn Pond seemed to be a more fitting name. The water level was pretty low with the deepest parts being maybe only 3-4 feet deep. At least there still were some trout in there. One of our guys managed to catch three (too small, so he threw them back). Afterwards, we headed back up the trail and made our way over Buckhorn Pass. From there on to Marmot Pass the views were absolutely incredible. The fall colors on the mountains glimmered in the late afternoon sun as the clouds quietly drifted in and out of the valleys. We made it to Camp Mystery about an hour before sundown and spent the night there. On the last day we packed up and hiked all the way back to TC, with three of us making a detour to summit Buckhorn Mountain. We took the steep trail from Marmot Pass which was pretty rough and tiring with our packs on--but it was totally worth the effort.

The view from up there at nearly 7000 feet was incredible. On a day like today, we could see as far north as Canada and as far south as Mount St. Helens. Essentially, we could see the entire Puget Sound region, the Cascades, and beyond. The buildings in downtown Seattle were clearly visible as well. To the west, the adjacent mountains and hills were covered in a brilliant display of fall colors. I've never seen a sight quite like it. Took some awesome photos. After admiring the views, we headed back to catch the ferry home. We stopped at Fat Smitty's along the way and conquered the world famous Fat Smitty Burger :) Fun times!
 
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Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming, Ripe berries
Bugs
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Great choice for hot weather lately: breezy, clear, wildflowers everywhere, plenty of shady breaks. ...
Great choice for hot weather lately: breezy, clear, wildflowers everywhere, plenty of shady breaks. Flies gradually increase during ascent, but manageable with 40% deet anti-bug lotion.
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
Bugs
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On a scorching 102F day back home, Shepherd and I decided we needed to get away to higher elevations...
On a scorching 102F day back home, Shepherd and I decided we needed to get away to higher elevations and cooler climes, so we loaded the dogs and headed to Marmot Pass via Big Quilcene River Trail #833. Patches, Misnomer, Brittn, and Peter joined us at the trailhead, where the thermometer read 69 degrees at 8:30 am.

Fortunately, most of this hike is in the shade and the bugs weren’t bad as long as we kept moving. No mosquitoes, just nasty black flies and humongous horse flies. The trail is well-maintained and of a moderate grade, which makes the 3500 ft elevation gain feel quite modest. The trail crosses several small streams in its first 2.5 miles, where the dogs can cool off and drink their fill. Good campsites abound. From about 2.5 miles to 4.5 miles, there is no water available as the trail climbs past meadows filled with wildflowers just slightly past their peak and gives you grand views of rocky crags to your left. Why this stretch is called Poop-Out Drag is beyond me, as it’s neither a poop nor a drag, the views are breath-taking, and the few areas of hot, dry, exposed scree alternate with plentiful shade.

At 4.5 miles, you reach Camp Mystery and some ice-cold springs. At 5 ¼ miles, you top out at Marmot Pass, where you get panoramic views of Mount Mystery, Mount Deception, and The Needles, as well as the Dungeness River Valley and Hood Canal just beyond the Big Quilcene valley. A quick scramble up the 6300-foot knoll directly south of the pass allows you even more expansive views of the peaks. Brittn and Peter hiked up to the 6950-foot summit of Buckhorn Mountain, where they enjoyed views of Warrior Peak, Mount Constance, the Strait of San Juan de Fuca and Victoria, Canada.

At Marmot Pass, a cool breeze blew all the bugs away and we were blessed with a brief afternoon rain shower that cooled us and the canines down enough to enjoy the return hike in relative comfort. Saw no one on the trail as we hiked in, and ran into a trio of lady hikers, a solo hiker with 3 dogs, and two Boy Scout troops after we reached the Pass.


Directions: US 101 along Hood Canal to 0.9 miles south of the Quilcene Ranger Station. Turn west of Penny Creek Road, go 1.4 miles and turn left on Big Quilcene River Road. This becomes FR 27 and at one point turns to the left. At 11 miles from US 101, come to FR 2750; turn left for 4.5 miles to the trailhead, Big Quilcene Trail No. 833.

STATISTICS:
Round Trip: 10.5 miles
Hiking Time In: 2:30 (leisurely pace)
Time Out: 2:10
Elevation Gain: 3500 ft (2500-6000 ft)
Green Trails Map No. 136 Tyler Peak
Permits: Northwest Forest Pass
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
Water on trail
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The wild flowers were/are on parade. It was as if Mother Nature decided to place all of the wild f...
The wild flowers were/are on parade. It was as if Mother Nature decided to place all of the wild flowers of the Olympics on display on this trail. After an arduous climb (for those wise hikers who brought along the ten essentials and not carrying light packs) we were richly rewarded with a fantastic array and massive amounts of wild flowers. It was a tiring hike but well worth it. So if you decide to come soon bring copious amounts of water, stamina, and camera memory.

The trail is in an excellent shape, a few creeks to cross, no bugs encountered and a bit cool in some places even on a such a warm day.
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
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We decided to check out this hike right after the 4th of July. What was a sunny weekend turned into...
We decided to check out this hike right after the 4th of July. What was a sunny weekend turned into a drizzle up on the mountains, although it never fully rained. The trail starts out pretty mellow hiking through the forests and climbs steeply for a while. I believe the trail description calls this the "poop-out drag". I'm a girl in pretty good shape but it was tough for me to keep up with three long-legged men on this stretch. One high enough, you are rewarded with views of magical peaks. On this particular day, the crags were passing in and out of clouds which created a sense of eerie beauty. We reached camp late afternoon, several sites set up right next to two little streams. The trail pressed on to the top of Marmot Pass, but we weren't sure if we should try to find camp up there as it was getting late. The next morning, we hiked to the top of Marmot Pass where the trail splits a few different ways. We hiked the trail to the left up the ridge and were greeted with stunning views of Olympic mountain majesty. It looked as if there were a few camp sites up at the top but you would have to find a way to shelter yourself from the wind. This was my first time out on the Olympic Peninsula and I can't wait to go back again.
 
Olympics -- East
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Despite predictions of poor weather, we headed across the Sound on the Ferry to Quilcene and the Oly...
Despite predictions of poor weather, we headed across the Sound on the Ferry to Quilcene and the Olympics. The drive to the trail head (as it is with most good trails in Washington) is long and bumpy, but certainly passable. There were a handful of cars in the parking lot, including a group of boys doing maintenance work on the trail. The trail undulates up and down next to a stream while climbing a few hundred feet to the first campsite - a well-used flat area next to the stream.

From that campsite, the trail kicks up a notch, climbing steadily for a few miles to the next established campsite. On our trip up this section of the trail, we climbed through layers of cloud that wafted across the trail, revealing the peaks around us only for a few moments before cloaking them again. It was awe-inspiring, and a welcome distraction from the climb.

Once you reach the second campsite, you will find two small streams coming from springs on either side of the trail. Chances are, you could drink this water without treating it, but after the water I dipped from the spring camp up full of tadpoles, we decided not to take any chances. You might find that the South-most spring has a lower critter-to-water ratio. This is, however, your last water source before the pass, so it is a good idea to take some on if you plan on continuing.

The hike to the pass from the second campsite climbs steadily for a short while, and opens into an upland meadow. Follow the trail around the North side of the meadow up to the trail crossing marker. We happened across two other campers that had set up camp at the pass; their campsite was out of sight on the other side of a group of trees. From the trail junction, we climbed the short trail up the ridge to the South and enjoyed the fleeting views of the surrounding peaks given to us by breaks in the clouds.

Although we had camped at the second campsite - the one near the two springs - we unanimously decided that the upper meadow would have been the idyllic site. The views from the pass were beautiful, with the peaks playing hide-and-seek behind the passing clouds. Our trip was too short to explore the surrounding peaks, or the wilderness shelter that we heard was just a few miles down the same trail on the other side of the pass. But it was beautiful, and did what you would expect any good hike to do - make you want to come back.
 
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Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
Overgrown
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Just a flash: The wildflowers are in full bloom in the eastern Olympics! About a half an hours w...
Just a flash: The wildflowers are in full bloom in the eastern Olympics!

About a half an hours worth on this fun hike, starting above the forest and the second campground, about 4.5 miles in.
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
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We decided to use the long July 4th weekend to head out to the Olympic Penninsula from Seattle and d...
We decided to use the long July 4th weekend to head out to the Olympic Penninsula from Seattle and do some hiking / camping. We started on Friday on the Big Quilcine River trail, headed up towards Marmot pass. The road to the trail head was in great shape, perfect for our low-clearance car. The parking lot at the trailhead was packed, but there was plenty of space to squeeze in along the side of the road (remember to bring your NW forest pass!).

We arrived a bit late (after 2 pm) and hiked straight to Camp Mystery, which is about 4.5 miles up the trail. The trail was in great shape with a forgiving incline. Great flowers and views once you break out of the trees. Camp Mystery was crowded, but we still managed to snag a nice campsite next to the trail / river.

The next day we picked up our camp and made the short hike to Marmot pass. From there we took the trail to the south (left) which brought us up onto a large grassy plateu. We set up our tent and stashed our gear there while we used the rest of the day to explore.

After going back down to Marmot pass, we took the trail that continued onto the west side of the pass and headed south. After maybe 20 minutes of downhill walking, this brought up to a small creek where the trail split. Some folks we met told us that if we crossed the creek the trail would continue across relatively flat ground to Home Lake. Since we didn't want to head too far downhill (for fear of the uphill hike we'd have at the end of the day to get back to Marmot pass), we decided to venture to Home Lake. From Marmot Pass to Home Lake is (a total guess) about 5 miles? The trail was pretty flat and in great shape. A few stream crossings as well as a single snow patch, but neither were big problems. Home Lake was beautiful and if we had brought towels...probably swimable. The hike back up to Marmot pass was a little tiring, especially since we weren't used to doing the uphill hiking at the END of the day!

That night we camped on the high plateau just south of Marmot pass. We were treated to an amazing sunset, 4th of July fireworks (we could just barely see them in the Puget sound area to the east), and a mountain goat...who decided he liked the taste of the bushes next to our tent. The only bad part about this campsite was that we had to bring water up from Camp Mystery (or we could have melted snow from the small snow patch up there). Besides that, it was much nicer than our previous campsite and well worth the short hill-climb to get there.

Sunday was our final day, so we packed up our camp and made the quick scramble up Buckhorn Mountain to the north of Marmot pass (at least that's what I assume it was!). The hike up is short. We took our time and didn't take more than 2 hours round-trip. Well worth it though, the views up there are incredible. After that we hiked back down the Big Quilcine River trail to our car and headed home.

All-in-all it was a fantastic trip. All the roads and trails are in perfect condition. The bugs were out, but weren't too bad with a little bug spray. There are a few snow patches here and there but nothing that causes problems. There are tons of great campsites and views, I'd highly recommend this hike as an over-nighter.
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
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The word must by out. I thought I had the mountains to myself Wednesday. I got an early start and ...
The word must by out. I thought I had the mountains to myself Wednesday. I got an early start and saw only one person up until about noon. But on the way down a little later, there must have been 30 hikers coming up.

The elevation gain is 3500 feet, but the payoff is worth it. If you do this, you really have to go left along the ridge from Marmot Pass, or right up Buckhorn Mountain for even better views.

What a beautiful hike. Snow-free, no mosquitos, perfect sunshine, the Olympics on display in all their glory in all directions.

It was the first time this season I felt like I was on top of the world again. It was kind of ironic, because as I made small talk at Marmot Pass with the first group of people I met on my way down, I heard a woman telling her friend something about "really feeling part of the galaxy up here." A half hour earlier, I been looking into the deep blue sky and thinking how amazing it was that this beautiful earth is just a rock hurtling through space.

 
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Olympics -- East
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In search of snow-free trails, I headed over to the Olympics today. Given my penchant for marmots, ...
In search of snow-free trails, I headed over to the Olympics today. Given my penchant for marmots, I headed over to their namesake pass. From Seattle to the TH was just over 2 hours. The Forest Service roads to the TH were in amazing shape. I was shocked that most of it was paved, save for the last 4 miles. The trail was in lovely shape, thanks to WTA. The trail starts off in old growth following the Big Quilcene River. I could hear the whistling of marmots from above. The trail doesn't switchback much, it just plunges deeper into the valley. The ascent is slow and gradual. After 3 miles or so, you finally escape the trees and are able to see some of the stunning views. At ~4 miles is Mystery Camp and just beyond that is a lovely basin which is a great place to catch lunch. The winds are a bit heavier further up the trail, but the views are lovely. Finally, at 5.2 miles, Marmot Pass is reached. Much to my chagrin, I didn't see a single furry buddy. I think they were all back nearer to the TH. All in all, a spectacular day in the Olympics.
 
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Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
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Hiked up to Marmot Pass (elev. 6000 ft). A wet day on the trail - raining up to Camp Mystery (4.6 mi...
Hiked up to Marmot Pass (elev. 6000 ft). A wet day on the trail - raining up to Camp Mystery (4.6 miles from the trailhead), then snowing above that point. Only one small patch of snow on the trail. Low visibility, so no views of the surrounding mountains, but still a nice hike (if a bit cold). Wildflowers in full bloom along the trail.

Met a bunch of WTA folks along the trail doing some work on the trail, which was in great shape (thanks!).
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
Water on trail, Snow on trail
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Wow! This was a spectacular hike, the trail was in good condition, and the snow and mud had almost d...
Wow! This was a spectacular hike, the trail was in good condition, and the snow and mud had almost disappeared from the top 3/4 mile of the trail. We encountered a few other day hikers and a number of backpacking parties but the trail didn't feel crowded.

We got above the clouds before arriving at the trailhead around 10am. The Forest Service road from Quilcene is paved for all but the last 4+ miles, with a few potholes but nothing that our little car couldn't handle.

We had mostly sunny skies for the day though the clouds and a little cool air started were rolling into Marmot Pass by lunchtime; we heard some thunderclaps behind us as we headed back down but only felt a few raindrops.

The beginning of the trail takes you through impressive old growth above the Big Quilcene River. Though the trillium was finished, some of the rhodies were still in bloom. After 2 1/2 miles of gentle climbing the trail seemed to get a little steeper, and soon you start to get awesome views of the surrounding ridges and back down the valley. We climbed in and out of forest, and through meadows that were covered in blooming paintbrush, lupine, columbine, and wild strawberry. The upper meadows, between Camp Mystery (which still had patches of snow and a little muck) and Marmot Pass, looked like they had just melted out.

This trail climbs steadily, but never too steeply, the whole way, with very few switchbacks. There's so much to see along the way that you don't mind the climb.

There would have been enough time to head up from the pass to the top of Buckhorn Mountain (another hiker said it took him an hour without stopping to get to the top from the pass) and back for even more impressive views but I decided that my knees could do without the extra elevation. We encountered a couple of backpackers at the Pass who were on their way to Buckhorn Lake and had come up the other side from the Dungeness River.
 
Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
Snow on trail
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Short version: Trail in beautiful shape; Camp Mystery is wet, but has several nice sites; snow on...
Short version:

Trail in beautiful shape; Camp Mystery is wet, but has several nice sites; snow on trail between Camp Mystery and Marmot Pass, but easily managed.

Long version:

I'd had my eye turned toward the Olympic Peninsula for several weeks. Our only hike on the other side of the Sound was a beach backpack, so we hadn't really experienced the Olympic Mountains. And, after years of admiring them from afar, it was well past time to do something about it.

Last month, I'd decided that we'd hike the Upper Big Quilcene Trail #833.1 sometime soon. The Forest Service conditions report on 05/18/09 said the trailhead was open and that there was heavy snow around 5000'. With Marmot Pass another 1000' above that, I decided to wait it out a bit. Several weeks passed, temperatures soared into the 90s—then retreated, and I forgot all about the knee pain from two weeks prior.

Nicole's dad was in town for a conference, so after dropping him off late Saturday morning, we were off for an estimated one-night backpack. It wasn't until 10:25 that we left Seattle, which was a later start then we're used to. Though the Hood Canal Bridge had opened a day or two before, I chose to drive south on I-5 through Olympia, and then up WA-101 along the western edge of Hood Canal. (Actually, I'd been secretly hoping that the bridge had stayed closed for another week, to lessen the chances of a busy trail.) It'd be a bit more time in the Forester, but we'd avoid the ferry fees and drive along a stretch of road we'd never driven along before. The drive north from Olympia to Quilcene was enjoyable: beaches and clammers, smooth asphalt, and a speed limit of 50mph. I'm a sucker for a 50mph speed limit, at least when the scenery warrants it. If you asked why, I might tell you it's because of the gas mileage (we averaged ~28mpg for the entire trip), but there's more to it than that. Or maybe I'm just getting old.

On I-5, it had rained intermittently, several times quite strongly. I reassured Nicole that once alongside the eastern edge of the mountains, it'd be drier. I was right, for the most part, but clouds still loomed ominous but beautiful up the valleys to the west of us as we passed them. Nicole wondered aloud whether we should backpack into the weather, bringing up the option of lightening our packs and dayhiking instead. It didn't take much, but I convinced her that we should stick to our original plan; we needed the experience of hiking and backpacking in less-than-ideal conditions anyway.

At 12:45, after two hours and twenty minutes on the road, and double that since breakfast, we pulled into Quilcene and ate a hamburger. This may or may not have been a mistake. But it was one we couldn't take back, and after a quick bite and a coffee left behind nearly full, we left Quilcene and WA-101 for Penny Creek Road (just south of town) and another ~15 miles up to the trailhead via Forest Service Roads #27 and #2750. Rhododendrons bloomed immediately aside the road, but clouds obscured any vistas.

Boots on, poles extended, we signed into the trail register at 14:10. Several dayhikers and a couple groups camped at Marmot Pass were all that lay before us. That, and ~3500' of elevation gain in 5.3 miles.

The first ~thirty minutes of the trail climb gently through forest—more rhododendrons here, though fewer than those on the side of the road—and the Big Quilcene River seems far off in the distance, barely audible at first, then growing louder until it's just off to your left.

The greens were the most vibrant I've ever seen. The river and its many small falls were picturesque beyond belief. We stopped immediately to make use of the tripod I carry for just such occasions. We were in high spirits at 15:00, as the trial—er, typo—trail started climbing, mildly to moderately, through the greenery and trees whose tops were shrouded in what I can't decide whether to call clouds, fog, or mist.

While it didn't seem to be raining, the trees themselves dripped droplets upon us, and at 15:55 we stopped at a "Stoves only beyond this point" sign and I wrapped the camera up and put it away while we ate sandwiches mainly to make the smell of onions go away. As we should've known, just after our break there was a large established camp to the left of the trail and next to the river. Had I paid closer attention to the signage at the trailhead, I would've known that this was Shelter Rock Camp, ~2.6 miles in and sitting at 3650'. We'd gained just over 1100' in half the hike, which left ~2400' of gain in the following 2.7 miles. We were oblivious to these facts, though--for better or for worse, I cannot say.

At this point, the trail turns perpendicular to the river briefly, gaining elevation less gingerly. Here the nature of the trail changes. We looked out through trees draped with pale green moss into clouds that, no doubt, obscured views across the valley. At 16:50 the trail crossed talus slopes whose tops were out of view—after a glance at Green Trails Map #135, I assumed the rocks were from Iron Mountain and our elevation was around 4800'. I really need an altimeter...

As the trail changed, I heard a strange sound, repeating frequently: Whoomp, whoomp, whoomp, whoomp, whoomp. Over and over, always five sounds, a pause, and then five more, repeating. I couldn't locate the source, and not knowing what it was was driving me crazy. My hypothesis: owl. Or ptarmigan. I have no idea, really. Do you? We did see a bunny rabbit shortly after.

Our pace was slower and slower. We stopped often. My knee began to ache. Nicole's back began to ache. We felt each pound of our 30-35 pound loads.

Wildflowers were spread about the open slopes above and below us: paintbrushes, phlox, and chocolate lilies. In the future, we'd see a small meadow of glacier lilies.

Sometime around 17:50 we approached Camp Mystery, at 5400' and 4.6 miles in. Here there was snow. We saw a tent off the the right, and we continued on the trail, which at this point resembled a small stream. The area was wet! Nicole stopped to rest while I went ahead to find a campsite. By this time, we were pretty sure we'd just camp here, and head up to Marmot Pass in the morning or something. A couple passed me on the way down and mentioned something about the summit being closed, and checking the website. I said, "Huh." Maybe I was tired, but I really had no idea what they were talking about. I found a nice dry campsite to the right of the trail, with water out back, in addition to that across the trail. I went off to tell Nicole, whom I met almost immediately. She'd seen the same couple, who told her there was a good campsite near some white poop that they thought was bobcat scat. We turned around and went back up the trail, past the campsite I had seen (which Nicole liked) and found the droppings and a small trail that led to a small spot suitable for a bivy, perhaps. Here the trail hugged the right side of a meadow while snow hugged the left. In between were a fair number of yellow flowers: glacier lilies. At the end of the small meadow stood a rock wall and I hypothesized—as I tend to do—that the trail at that point turned up and made its final climb to Marmot Pass. Since it was by then 18:00, we were tired, and we didn't have any idea what conditions/campsites were like up ahead, we returned to the aforementioned site and set up camp.

Somehow we managed to stay awake until nearly 22:00...

***

We awoke stiff and sore Sunday morning, but excited to see not clouds but rocks above us. It was clear! We left our packs behind us at 07:30 for a quick jaunt up to Marmot Pass. I envisioned mountains above clouds, and took little aside from my camera. The trail switchbacked through several short patches of snow, and there was ample evidence of post-holing. Luckily, we stayed atop the snow and turned frequently to admire the sun shining on the valley below us, which was filled with clouds. We saw bootprints both straight uphill and those that followed the trail, but it was easy to tell the difference.

Suddenly the pass was in sight. I could see the sign in the distance. We arrived at 07:55, and spent the next ~10 minutes taking photographs and relaxing at 6000'.

We had been very close to the pass the night before, but I think it worked out for the best. We enjoyed our campsite, and the short morning excursion up to the pass. I had entertained ideas of summiting Buckhorn Mountain during the planning phase, but it'll have to wait until another time.

As we descended, the warmth from the sun's rays was raising clouds up like smoke signals.

We broke camp at 09:00, dropped down into the clouds, and were in the Subaru by 11:30. We stopped off to quell Nicole's caffeine headache at a roadside espresso stand along WA-101 and were home at 14:45, with time to shower and rest before picking up Nicole's dad and taking him to the airport.

This trip pushed us to work a little harder. We went up—not knowing how hard it'd be or what the weather had in store for us. I think the ~3500' of elevation gain is the most we've accomplished with full packs for the entire time. We had a good time, and managed to make Marmot Pass when it was clear. I couldn't have asked for anything more.

Stats: ~10.6 miles from trailhead to Marmot Pass and back, with ~3500' of elevation gain (and loss).
Day 1: ~4.8 miles and ~3000' of elevation gain to our campsite below Marmot Pass.
Day 2: ~5.8 miles, ~500' of elevation gain, and ~3500' of elevation loss.

As always, a more prettier formatted version of this report, with more pictures, at my blog: http://dontlookdown.wordpress.com
 
Olympics -- East
Snow on trail
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This was a great week for a first hike to Marmot Pass. The weather was great, the road is in perfect...
This was a great week for a first hike to Marmot Pass. The weather was great, the road is in perfect shape (even a 2wd sedan can go now) and totally snow free. Likewise, the trail is in great shape and snow free until a quarter of a mile from Camp Mystery. The snow is pretty solid and even in the late afternoon we didn't need the snowshoes. Camp Mystery is still pretty snowed in with a couple of feet of snow, but we did find two snow free and dry patches to pitch our tent. The trail from there to Marmot Pass is totally snowed in still. The snow on the open slopes is very soft, snowshoes are a must here. A great hike!
 
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Olympics -- East
Water on trail, Snow on trail, Road to trailhead inaccessible
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We began our day hike from the Lower Big Quilcene River trailhead, which was safely accessible. Aft...
We began our day hike from the Lower Big Quilcene River trailhead, which was safely accessible. After passing Bark Shanty at 2.5 miles, the trail becomes less maintained and snow covered. The closer we became to the upper trail head for Marmot Pass, the deeper the snow. Suggested waterproof boots and gaters, some deep water crossings as well.
Trailhead for Marmot Pass was deep snow, with old tire tracks from possibly weeks ago. We then descended forest road 2750 assessing snow levels. Snow remained deep until just pass Townsend Creek, roughly 4-5 miles from the trailhead. 4 wheel drive and good clearance could get you to the creek. Park and hike the remainder.
2750, 27 and 27-080 below Townsend Creek were drivable and mostly clear of snow.
 
Olympics -- East
Blowdowns
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It was first trip up to Marmot Pass and we camped overnight at Camp Mystery. The trail is in great s...

It was first trip up to Marmot Pass and we camped overnight at Camp Mystery. The trail is in great shape, and though the two mile ""poop-out drag"" from Shelter Rock Camp to Camp Mystery relentlessly gains almost 1000 feet per mile, on an overcast day it's quite tolerable.

The only blowdown of any size is within 100 feet of Shelter Rock Camp; at one of the smaller blowdowns near Camp Mystery the trail tread has slid out, but the slope is mild at that point and the trail now sits a foot or two lower than it did before.

This is not a hike for those seeking solitude. There were at least seven tents at Camp Mystery on a Tuesday night. We were fortunate to find a prime campsite just above the higher spring, and I don't think anyone did a dry camp at the pass that night (unlike on the weekends as recent trail reports have indicated).

The flowers are spectacular and near their peak.

After setting up camp, we did the brief schlep to the pass, then went south to the flattop knoll about 300' higher than the pass. All of the higher mountains were shrouded in cloud, but we had intermittent sunshine.

The next morning, we returned to the pass and were rewarded with panoramic mountain views on three sides, while Puget Sound below was covered by a thick bank of clouds. We headed up the way trail that heads up Buckhorn from some 50 yards north of the pass. While the others lolled in a nice flat spot above the pass, Dave went the rest of the way up Buckhorn.

Then it was time to break camp and head down. There were at least a dozen folks at the pass on the way down and several tents at Camp Mystery. Given the flowers, mountain views, lack of snow on the trail, and the relatively short drive from Puget Sound City I can see why it's so popular.

 
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Olympics -- East
Blowdowns, Water on trail
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The upper Big Quilcene trail to Marmot Pass is in pretty good shape. Just after Shelter Rock Camp is...

The upper Big Quilcene trail to Marmot Pass is in pretty good shape. Just after Shelter Rock Camp is a large blowdown that requires a big step-up/step-down to get over it. This is the worst one; I counted just five other blowdowns, all of which were easy. There was water over the trail in a few spots, and one brief muddy area. Brushy areas were not so overgrown as to present problems.



The only snow from the trailhead to Marmot Pass was one patch in the shade near Camp Mystery. The springs there were flowing nicely, but there was no water beyond. In open areas, wildflowers were blooming in abundance. The pass was a popular place this weekend, with a mixture of backpackers and day hikers. There seemed to be an equal number of men and women, and about one dog for every three people. Campsites were crowded, with tents occupying the ridges on either side of the pass, and several more on the plateau to the west of and below Marmot Pass.

I took the trail to the top of Buckhorn Mountain, and arrived there just as clouds moved in to partially obscure Mt. Constance and Warrior Peak. But the weather was so pleasant, I stayed for 45 minutes, which allowed time for the clouds to clear. Amazingly, there was almost no breeze, and no bugs, anywhere!

 
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Olympics -- East
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The trail was in great condition - I hear WTA is to thank for that! We really enjoyed this hike, fir...

The trail was in great condition - I hear WTA is to thank for that! We really enjoyed this hike, first shaded in the forest along a lush creek, then along steep scree hillsides and wildflower bedecked meadows. The varied scenery makes the hike fly by on the way up. We did see lots of people, but it didn't diminish the experience any. We also saw a fair amount of wildlife: deer (a doe and fawn), a coyote, and a rabbit on the drive in. During lunch at the pass, we were looking out to the Olympics when my fiance spotted a black bear roaming the slopes below and to the right of us. It was slowing ambling along the tree line, until it finally rounded a hill to the north and disappeared. Quite a treat!

 
Olympics -- East
Blowdowns
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We received our most recent copy of WTA's magazine and saw Marmot Pass highlighted as a good trip fo...

We received our most recent copy of WTA's magazine and saw Marmot Pass highlighted as a good trip for July, so that's where we headed on July 2 for a quick out-and-back overnight.

The trailhead is easy to reach from Quilcene; much of the Forest Service road is even paved (not sure if that's a good thing or not).

The Big Quilcene River Trail is exactly as advertised in all the guide books: a steady climb, steep enough in places to let you know you're steadily gaining altitude, but not so steep to turn you back. The tread is excellent most of the way, with a few rocky patches above Shelter Rock.

We took about 4.5 hours to get to Camp Mystery, with full packs and a ton of photo breaks in the last two miles. I'd figure 3.5 hours as a day-hike. The hike out took just 2.5 hours.

There's a little water over the trail in a few places, but nothing serious. There's one large tree over the trail near Shelter Rock and a few small blow-downs remain closer to Camp Mystery, but nothing difficult. Above Camp Mystery, there's more water on the trail and a few patches of snow remaining.

It took about 40 minutes to reach Marmot Pass from Camp Mystery. Worth the effort for amazing views but we could only stay for a few minutes before being chased down by lightning all around.

Wildflowers are just about perfect right now. Rhodedendrons are at their peak in the understory along the first mile or two. The rock slides and meadows above Shelter Rock are covered with phlox, lupines, paintbrush, columbine, and more. If you want wildflowers, do this one NOW!

Very few bugs right now, but the rain and clouds may have kept them at bay.

 
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Olympics -- East
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We did Marmot Pass and Mount Buckhorn on Saturday. What little remaining snow was gathered around th...

We did Marmot Pass and Mount Buckhorn on Saturday. What little remaining snow was gathered around the two campsites (Camp Jolly/Shelter Rock @ 2.5 miles and Camp Mystery @ 4.5 miles). No gaiters needed. Several blowdowns and along the trail up but they had gone on the return hike as the WTA had a maintenance party working the trail. Thank you WTA.

Marmots were whistling, flushed a few grouse, it was so clear we could see Mount Adams behind Mount Rainier. Awesome day. Trail in good conditions.

Followed that with Mount Townsend and Welch Peak on Sunday via the Little Quilcene Trail. Trail recently received maintenance so was a breeze to ascend. Small patches of snow. Summer shoes ok. Another awesome Northwest day.

Carry plenty of water for both hikes.

Full trip reports, photos and videos at: http://mikeshikes.blogspot.com/

 
Olympics -- East
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Went up the upper Big Quilcene trail for a 1 night backpack trip to Marmot Pass Saturday. The trail ...

Went up the upper Big Quilcene trail for a 1 night backpack trip to Marmot Pass Saturday. The trail is fantastic shape. Passed a WTA crew on the way up and they have done a tremendous job here. Many, many different flowers out. In the steep meadows between Shelter Rock and Camp Mystery paintbrush was prevalent. In the vale just above Mystery glacier lillys covered the whole area. There is still some snow just beyond that point, but not for long I'd imagine. Just a patch or 2 of snow at and near the pass w/ the way up Buckhorn snow free.

 
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Olympics -- East
Wildflowers blooming
Water on trail
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So with it being soo early in the season we found marmot pass to be snow free. This is a great hike ...
So with it being soo early in the season we found marmot pass to be snow free. This is a great hike for the first backpacking trip of the season, dusting off the cobwebs. The trailhead was busy and we got the last parking spot. The trail was wet as rain began to fall turning to hail. About 2 miles up we encountered trail crews making improvements for drainage furture up towards camp mystery. We arrived at camp mystery and personally I do not really like to camp at these sites, so we decided to go up to the pass and camp. Above camp mystery the terrain opens up with swithbacks up to the large meadow before Marmot pass. At this point we had rain, hail, fog, and sun. After reaching the pass we hiked up the ridge line and set up camp. we had a great evening with clearing to get great views of the Royal basin and Mt Buckhorn. As we settled in for the night we had snow falling on the first day of summer, gotta love the PNW.
 
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Olympics -- East
Snow on trail
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The Forest Service road is impassable due to snow approximately 1.5 miles from trailhead. The trail ...

The Forest Service road is impassable due to snow approximately 1.5 miles from trailhead. The trail itself is mostly under snow.

 
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Olympics -- East
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I hiked in about 3 miles with my packgoats from the Lower Big Quilcene trailhead. The trail was snow...

I hiked in about 3 miles with my packgoats from the Lower Big Quilcene trailhead. The trail was snow free; in pretty good shape; a few trees down and some washouts after Bark Shanty; but none were a problem.

 
Olympics -- East
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The Upper Big Quilcene (#833.1) is at its festive best during the flower show of early summer, but w...

The Upper Big Quilcene (#833.1) is at its festive best during the flower show of early summer, but when the crowds have thinned in the Fall, there’s no better place to put the mountains to bed for the season. Penny Creek Road, about a mile South of the Quilcene Ranger Station, leads in about 3 miles to the paved but one lane forest service road 27. After about 6-7 miles, a left on 2750 plus another 5 miles on unpaved, occasionally potholed, but generally well-graded road bring you to the trailhead.

Although the Upper Big Quilcene gains 3700 feet in the 5.3 miles to Marmot Pass, it’s not as brutal as all that. The climb is steady, the trail is good, and the scenery’s attractive. The first few miles feature the dance and churn of the stream through an emerald forest. About halfway up, the trail breaks out into open country, with views across and up the canyon to Boulder Ridge, the ridge of Gargoyles, and the pass. In place of the usual riot of flowers, I saw exactly one fading aster, and a thistle. Patches of ice and snow didn’t intrude on the trail till Camp Mystery, about 4 miles in. The uphill after Mystery, about a mile and 900 feet up to the pass had some snowy and icy sections, but nothing particularly difficult or problematic for route finding.

Even in the hush of Fall, the pass weaves dreams of wandering. Behind is the long slide to Hood Canal, and in the distance, Rainier. In front is the valley of the Dungeness, and across, Graywolf Ridge to the North, the Needles, Fricaba, Mystery, and South to Constance Pass. Buckhorn Peak beckons. The ridgeline stroll North to Buckhorn Pass is a must. When my knees give out, roll me up the knoll to the South of Marmot, and leave me there.

During a quick lunch at the pass, three day hikers arrived to admire the view, and we shot the breeze. After that, I said my good-byes and was on my own till my return the next day to the same spot. The subsequent 1.7 miles/1200 feet skirt below Boulder Ridge, with expansive views across the Dungeness valley, and then switchback down to Boulder Camp, which was barely spared by an avalanche in the late nineties. At Boulder camp, I picked up the Constance Pass trail (#893), a sweet path just below treeline, beneath the cliffs of Warrior, Desperation, and Inner Constance. The trail breaks out beneath the rocky slopes of Inner Constance, curves around the basin, and proceeds up about 900 feet to Home Lake, 3 miles past Boulder. Along the way, intermittent snow patches blanketed the path, but the route was clear until the lake basin, where the snow was more or less continuous.

My home at Home was the first camp on the right, with views up to Constance Pass and through the pines to the bulk of Inner Constance. The lake had about a 3 inch shell of ice, necessitating the application of a well-placed rock to get water. The full moon joined in for cocktail hour, dinner, and dessert, and lit up the hard snow like a carpet of gems. A great horned owl hooted among the scrawny pines across my lake.

In the morning, before reversing course, I skittered on a crust of snow along the South side of the lake, took the icy switchback East, and then curved back up into the mostly snow-covered basin beneath Constance Pass. At this point, the trail disappeared, so I headed up snow and heather to Del Monte Ridge just above the pass. From there, the views towards Mystery, Deception, Gunsight Pass, and across the Dosewallips Valley to the snow-covered ranges West were unlimited. While the ridge is more hospitable in the summer, it still is a hard place to leave in the Fall. I took my cue from a trio of ravens, skated down to my pack, and retraced my steps. Back at Marmot, I met a few folks enjoying the day, and then coasted down the Big Quilcene toward November.

 
Olympics -- East
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I have been meaning to make it up to Marmot Pass and Buckhorn Mountain all summer, but hadn't yet fo...

I have been meaning to make it up to Marmot Pass and Buckhorn Mountain all summer, but hadn't yet for various reasons. Also, I was a little nervous, as I had a very close encounter with a mama bear and her cubs on this trail last year. But today was the day, with the forecast finally not predicting rain, to finally return, as always, with my faithful dogs.

The fall colors along the drive to the trailhead are glorious, and the road was in fairly good shape, except a few large potholes. The trail is in very good condition, with just a few mucky spots in the lower elevations from recent heavy rain. One tree crosses the trail at camp mystery, but its barely even worth mentioning. For those not familiar with this trail, it ascends through lush mossy forest, at times paralleling the river, until it breaks out of the trees after about 3 miles, returning briefly to the forest, then opens again after the last camp sites at 4 1/2 miles. There are two ""official"" camping areas, neither of which seem very appealing in my opinion.

The open slopes provide great vistas, that get better the further up you hike. From Marmot Pass, I followed the trail #840 for a short distance to a carin that marks a footpath up Buckhorn Mountain. The way up Buckhorn is very steep, but the views make it worth the effort. While the higher peaks of the Olympics had new snow, and a few flakes danced in the air while I ate my lunch, the trail and surrounding area had no snow at all.

All in all it was a great hike. No bears today, only bear poop. And no marmots.

 
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Olympics -- East
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Last year when I hiked to Marmot Pass the view was completely obscured by fog. Yesterday was a perfe...

Last year when I hiked to Marmot Pass the view was completely obscured by fog. Yesterday was a perfect day for the hike, and I'm glad we grabbed the opportunity to take it. Although it was hot on the ascent, there were enough cooling breezes, even while crossing the open avalanche slopes, to prevent overheating. We climbed the 3500 feet of elevation to Marmot Pass and then another 300 feet up the ridge to the south to the broad meadow that allows for an incredible view of the mountains, especially of Mt Mystery and Mt. Constance and all the peaks across the Dungeness. It's a much broader and impressive view than you get at Marmot Pass, and well worth the extra effort to climb the ridge. The view east was not as clear, due to a rosy haze (smog?), but you could see Glacier Peak and faintly other mountains in the Cascades. The hike would have been perfect if I had not been stung by a (bee? wasp? hornet?)--I never saw it as the light in the woods on the return was getting dim.

 
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Olympics -- East
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So I've always heard that there were some great sights to see up at Marmot Pass so I decided to find...

So I've always heard that there were some great sights to see up at Marmot Pass so I decided to find out for myself. I must say that I wasn't disappointed. I arrived at the trail head at 10:30am. The trail up to Shelter Rock Camp was muddy in several spots but wasn't too bad. There were some nice sights to see before reaching Camp Mystery. I arrived at Camp Mystery at 2:30pm, and after setting up my tent took off for Marmot Pass around 3:15pm. There is a trail that you can take up to Buckhorn Mountain but I decided not to make the trek. Really nice scenery all around at Marmot Pass.

 
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Olympics -- East
Mudholes
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Is this August? On a rainy Sunday with errands pressing, we managed to sneak in a quick hike into th...

Is this August? On a rainy Sunday with errands pressing, we managed to sneak in a quick hike into the Buckhorn Wilderness. It's a magical area and perfect for a rainy day. We hiked from the upper trailhead 2.6 miles to Shelter Rock Camp, then back. Lovely forest with big trees, a clear cascading stream with mossy banks. Pacific rhodies early in the trail and then all the sword ferns, oregon grape, salmonberry, huckleberry, and devil's club you could want. Apart from being pretty muddy in spots (sort of unavoidable during the rain in the Olympics) the trail is in fine shape.

 
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Olympics -- East
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This past Saturday I hiked with a group of WTA members on a Wildland Discovery Hike on the Upper Bi...
This past Saturday I hiked with a group of WTA members on a Wildland Discovery Hike on the Upper Big Quilcene Trail to Marmot Pass, in the Buckhorn Wilderness west of the little town of Quilcene. By the day's end, the five of us couldn't agree more that this is one of the best hikes in Washington, especially around wildflower season. From its start in towering old-growth along the tumbling Quilcene River, to enchanting alpine meadows carpeted with a colorful palette of wildflowers, the trail is a plant enthusiast's dream. We hit the trail at 9:30am at an enthusiastic pace. The fresh mountain air coming down off the Quilcene was invigorating, and the glimpses of blue sky through the canopy of trees hinted at a beautiful, clear day. We stopped periodically for the first two miles to examine forest understory wildflowers, including vanilla leaf, trillium, rhododendrons, bunchberry (Canadian dogwood), twin flower, wild ginger, foam flower, thimbleberry, false soloman's seal, and queen's cup. And there were just enough ripe huckleberries on one bush we passed for each of us to try one! At 2.5 miles, we stopped at Shelter Rock Camp for a snack and some water, then left the thick canopy behind. For the next two miles, the trail climbs in and out of forested patches but is mostly in small, enchanted meadows. On the open slopes, we seemed we saw a new plant or wildflower every few steps-- green false hellebore, orange and cliff paintbrush, Columbia tiger lilies, phlox, lupine, a few kinds of aster, rosy twisted stalk, purple harebells, Sitka valerian, columbine, and cow parsnip. In spite of the hefty elevation gain, this trail is a steady, gentle uphill trudge to Marmot Pass, though boy scouts who regularly used this trail affectionately called the sun-drenched meadow portion of the climb ""Poop Out Drag."" The climb can drag on, but the rewards are numerous. At 4.5 miles is the charming Camp Mystery, with a few open campsites right on the trail and a few more secluded ones beyond the big site up towards the pass. Backpackers often stop here for two nights, using the middle day to hike beyond Marmot Pass to Home Lake or the Tubal Cain Mine Trail. We saw several small groups camped at Mystery, including a family that had come in with two darling packgoats! A large, open meadow takes the trail the rest of the way up to Marmot Pass, which presents you with views that will take your breath away. In search of an even better view of the Needles range before us we took a left at the pass intersection (this is now well signed) and followed a steep path to a knoll lookout to enjoy our lunches. At this slightly higher elevation, we saw magenta paintbrush. A fog was starting to roll in just as we began our descent, shrouding the meadows in mystery. The descent was rather steep and those of us on the hike that had hiking poles were grateful for it (I did not.) We arrived back at the trailhead at 5:30pm. Trail facts: Buckhorn Wilderness, Olympic National Forest. 10.6 miles round trip, 3500 feet elevation gain. Green Trails Map No. 136. Tyler Peak or Custom Correct Buckhorn Wilderness. Northwest Forest Pass required. More information:
Quilcene Ranger District (360) 765-3368 Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula by Craig Romano, The Mountaineers Books Directions to trailhead: From the town of Quilcene, go south on US 101 1.5 miles, and turn right (west) onto Penny Creek Road. At 1.5 miles bear left on Big Quilcene River Road, which becomes FR 27. At about 10 miles, go left on FR 2750, and continue 4.75 miles to the trailhead at 2500 feet elevation.
 
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Olympics -- East
Blowdowns, Water on trail, Overgrown
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We made a four-day traverse of the high country trails from the Tubal Cain trailhead to the Dosewall...

We made a four-day traverse of the high country trails from the Tubal Cain trailhead to the Dosewallips River - miles and miles of alpine meadows in full bloom, interspersed with stands of alpine trees and the occasional scree slope to cross. The entire route was snow free. The Tubal Cain trail is in excellent shape, with only two blowdowns across the trail between Tubal Cain Mine and the Buckhorn Lake junction, one we crawled under and one we stepped over. A trail crew was at work clearing the last blowdown from the trail between Marmot Pass and Boulder Shelter and had also restored the tread where it had been eroded away on steep sidehills.

There does not appear to have been any maintenance on the Constance Pass trail so far this year. There are 3 or 4 blowdowns across the trail between Boulder Shelter and Home Lake and several more below Sunnybrook Meadows on the Dosewallips side. In Sunnybrook Meadows the trail is overgrown in places and the trail gets a bit lost in the streams, but is not difficult to follow.

 
Olympics -- East
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The trail is in great condition and the road to the TH is one of the best I've driven on with only a...

The trail is in great condition and the road to the TH is one of the best I've driven on with only a few small potholes to maneuver around. There's a variety of pretty flowers out in the meadow areas right now. Great views and a great workout. And, I didn't even need to use my bug repellent!

 
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