Trip Reports

West to East Crossing of Alpine Lakes Wilderness

August 28 to Sept. 5

8/28 Necklace Valley/East Fork Foss River. Two of us entered in light drizzle via Necklace Valley trail, camping at Jade Lake. Buggy when no breeze or rain. Wet brush overhanging trail at thigh level.

8/29 LaBohn Lakes. Continued up to head of valley and up way trail to LaBohn Lakes. Well cairned. Take talus slide upward along left edge to near its top. Cairns mark start of trail through trees to left and up. Camped at lower lake. Rain in evening, then clearing and ice on tent fly in morning. Decent cairns up and south to LaBohn Gap.

8/30 LaBohn Gap, Williams Lake, Dutch Miller Gap, Waptus River. Passed through LaBohn Gap and down to Chain Lakes, and on down below. Cairns less frequent, several variations marked, some snow remaining in bottom of valley, hard and thick. Found top of way trail down to Williams Lake at head of gully opening into talus slope below. Trail veers off to left of gully into trees and does not descend talus. Quite a bit of blowdown on this way trail, with fresh work arounds, careful trail spotting. Many bugs at Williams Lake. Good trail down to junction with Middle Fork Snoqualmie and up to Dutch Miller Gap. Trail down to Ivanhoe Lake is good. Bridge crushed below Ivanhoe, badly slanted, unsuitable for horses or easy walking, but passable. Further down, trail is a bit brushy, very noticable when wet. One creek crossing before intersection with PCT needed poles to avoid fording.

8/31 PCT from Waptus River to Cathedral Pass. Good trail, many people, blueberries ripe in a couple places, and no where else on the entire trip.

9/1 Cathedral Pass to Robin Lakes Creek crossings on PCT are fine.

Trial up to Tuck and Robin Lakes clearly marked, well cairned up to Robin Lakes, but need to pay attention or its easy to lose. Bugs not too bad at Robin Lakes. Frost and freezing overnight, but still bugs in morning. Three mountain goats visited our camp in morning.

9/2 Cross country up to ridge of Granite Peak, and south along eastern side of ridge. Descended to unnamed round lake halfway down to Klonaqua Lakes, mostly on heather slopes and talus, connecting ledges to avoid seriously cliffy gullies. Check 7.5 minute Mt Daniels topo for best looking terrain. From unnamed lake, at lower edge and right of outlet, we found a cairn and faint fisherman's trail leading down a ways and then left into a rock slot weakness through first band of cliffs below lake. The route through the second band of cliffs much lower was right of the main stream (facing down)and well right of the initial slot descent. Eventually reached the upper lake shore at its head in a grassy area. Faint fishermans trail (mostly bushwack)leads clockwise around northern shore to campsite on isthmus between the two lakes. Summary of day: Difficult cross country routefinding through potentially hazardous terrain. No ropes or ice ax needed but care and experience. May be other better routes down. About 7 hours from Lower Robin Lake including much map reading, looking, exploring several sections without packs, and enjoying the views.

9/3 Klonaqua Lakes/French Ck/Snowall Ck Followed fishermans trail (good though) from isthmus to Bob Lake, and along outlet of Bob Lake down and left to join official Klonaqua Lakes trail left of outlet creek. Trail has a number of trees across it and is brushy lower down. Crossing of Klonaqua Ck at junction with French Ck trail easy on rocks without ford now. Descended French Ck trail to junction with Snowall Crk trail. Ford of French Ck not difficult at this time, but hiker ford doesn't lead to trail on the other side which is well south of where Snowall Ck joins French Ck. The obvious shallow ford is north of Snowall Ck. Signage, etc could be better. Bushwacked to find trail.

Snowall Ck trail is good turning to brushy further up. Camped in meadow west of Cradle Pass. Not too buggy. Trail easy to lose in some meadows, with horse and elk variations, mud and overgrowth.



9/4 Cradle Lake, Meadow Ck, Jack Ck. Trail up over Cradle Pass and down to Cradle Lk is generally good. Beautiful area with great views of Stuart Pass, Mt Stuart from NW and north side of Ingall's Peak. Unfortunately, 5-6 small forest fires were burning in upper Jack Ck basin, above where Meadow Ck joins Jack Ck. These obstructed our planned exit over Stuart Pass to N Fork of Teanaway. Trail down to Meadow Ck was good, as was Meadow Ck trail from Snowall/Cradle Lake trail junction to junction with Jack Ck trail. Temporary sign at Jack Ck announced closure of Jack Cr Trail and Van Epps Pass Trail south of Meadow Ck. due to fires. (Caused by lightning several weeks earlier we later discovered.) So we descended Jack Ck. to Icicle River Road. Trail generally good. No cars, no people at trailhead or campgrounds at Rock Island or Chatter Ck. Camped at Chatter Ck Campground, not understanding why all was so deserted.

9/5 Icicle River Road Got up early, and began hiking down road to east. After a mile, the river began running over the road and we understood why there were no cars or people. A one lane fairly new dirt road workaround led about half a mile around the washout. It was closed to traffic and had lots of boot prints. At the new road end, two empty cars, two portapotties, and a good view of the river running off the road for the last time. ( We later learned a June 8, 2008 landslide provoked by rain/snow melt came down the northern facing slope into the river, diverting it onto the road on the northern side of the old river bed.) We very luckily picked up a ride almost immediately from a newly arrived car and had a real breakfast in Leavenworth. We were prepared to take the bus home, leaving Leavenworth at 1:10pm for Seattle, arriving 4:30pm, but an anxious family member came to get us instead.

This is a classic crossing of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness, linking a number of very scenic lakes, passes and lightly used trails. Except along the PCT over Labor Day Weekend, we saw a total of 8 people, all but two day hikers. Unsettled weather and the Icicle Ck Road washout may have helped us here. We went 48 hours west of PCT seeing no one, and 72 hours east of PCT seeing no one. The difficult cross country section above Klonaqua Lakes could be avoided by descending into the Cle Elum River from Cathedral Pass and ascending over Paddy-Go-Easy Pass to French Ck and Meadow Ck Pass. This has the disadvantage of touching a road, missing Tuck and Robin Lakes, Klonaqua Lakes and Cradle Lake. The exit over Stuart Pass would be most ideal, and we intend to go back to finish our trip properly.

Aug 30, 2008: La Bohn Gap

The past few weeks I have been working my way westwards in the Mount Daniel-Mount Hinman region: Pea Soup Lake, then the West Foss River valley to Iron Cap Lake...now, La Bohn Lakes completes the trilogy. It is an amazing area and La Bohn Gap is a spectacular setting: craggy cliff faces, beautiful lakes and tarns, waterfalls and heather slopes dotting pristine white granite.

Last year, I had looked over at La Bohn Gap as I climbed up to Tank Lakes across the valley. Clouds had been boiling through the gap and spilling over into Necklace Valley. The setting had looked spectacular, so I had vowed to return. I began the hike from the Necklace Valley trailhead at 4:00am, hiking for the first hour and a half by headlamp. The brush was laden with fat droplets of water, just begging to be released at the slightest touch. As the light brightened my spirits quailed as I saw heavy mist hanging in the narrowing valley: “Oh no! Not another rainy hike.” Well, rainy it was going to be...and then some.

The first 5mi through quite pretty lush-green forest (which I enjoyed on the way back, when I could see it) were easy. Then, as I crossed the East Fork Foss River, it was a difficult next 3mi; wet roots, slick rocks and copious amounts of mud on a steep grade were all over me like a cheap suit. Finally, at the 8mi mark I reached peaceful Jade Lake, the first of the Necklace Valley lakes.

I decompressed for a bit and then headed up to the beautiful basin at the head of the valley. Looming high above me was La Bohn Gap and, just like the previous time, clouds hung in the saddle. Streams and talus fields cut through the basin meadow. I picked my way through the meadow and then began to ascend steeply up the talus strewn slopes. Necklace Valley, still sleeping peacefully under dark and angry skies was soon arrayed below me with Lake Ilswoot, far off in the distance, a brilliant splash of blue. Across the valley the Tank Lakes region rekindled some fond memories though these were soon forgotten as I gawked at La Bohn Gap and the crags of La Bohn Peak.

Lots more work and finally I was in the heavenly La Bohn Lakes basin. The rain abated for a bit and even a few fleeting (very fleeting) patches of blue skies appeared - it seemed that God was with me and all was right with the world. I spent 2 hours wandering around the lakes, before heading over towards Chain Lakes. Unfortunately, around this time it started to snow (quite heavily at times, though it wasn’t sticking) so that was that. I turned around, picked my way carefully down the steep descent back into Necklace Valley, and then even more carefully along the muddy and completely saturated trail back to the car.

Additional Photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/shahiddurrani/sets/72157607047254400

Cumulative stats:

- Distance: ~22mi

- Elevation gain: 5,500ft

- Hiking time: 14hrs

- Total trip time: 17.5hrs

Trail conditions:

- Extremely muddy conditions; slick rocks and roots made for slow going.

- No bugs.

- Snowing, though not sticking, at La Bohn Gap; Yup, this is summer in the Northwest.

- Rained for most of the hike; brush alongside the trail was completely wet, so I never took my rain-gear off.

My goal was the Tank Lakes above the Necklace Valley, but I only made it to the end of the valley due to poor planning (took longer than I thought), exhaustion, and MOSQUITOES !

The first 4+ miles of the trail is an up and down wooded trail that crosses several streams and begins to give you a taste of the bugs to come. The next 3 miles take you up one of the worst ‘trails’ I’ve been on. Roots, rocks, wet, overgrown, bugs, and straight up with no switchbacks. When the trail sort of levels out at the entrance to the Necklace Valley, the major bug attack starts. The trail then goes by 3 lakes and then ends with up options for La Bohn lakes or Tank Lakes. The lakes and the valley are beautiful, but the boggy areas and the wetness of the valley are a great breeding ground for mosquitoes. I met a man and his son who were on the way out after spending the previous day and night ‘hiding in our tent’. At the end of the valley, I could see the 1000 feet I needed to travel to the tank lakes and decided to just camp in the valley. The next morning I awoke to a howling wind that made breakfast a wonderful experience without inhaling bugs. The sunrise was spectacular and the weather warm. On the trail out, I passed 5 groups headed up – all saying they were going to the tank lakes. I didn’t say anything. I will return later in the fall when the weather turns colder and perhaps the bugs will have had their fill for the year.

Trail starts very easy for the first 5 miles, park-like at times if not a little boring even. Meandering along the East fork of the Foss River. When you get to the foot bridge at the 5 Mile mark take a rest as your trail is about to change. Just after the bridge over the Foss you hit a log that looks like it goes into a rocky area. Look close you will see some Cairns marking the trail up. From here you test your boots, thighs and ankles as you head up and up and up.

The trail is ok in spots but about where the flimsy foot bridge is it gets tougher- many roots and muddy trail impede your progress. The problem with the uphill portion of this trail is the lack of switchbacks, the trade-off being that you make a faster go with each step.

You eventually break out at the outfeed of Jade Lake. We were going to Ilswoot which is rather hard to find, the best way to describe getting there is go to the outfeed of Emerald Lake cross the logs and rocks piled into a foot bridge,turn right about 30 yards then left and you will see it down in a valley to the East. Beautiful and hidden is this little gem of a lake. Very few tent spots here the best being the first one you come to. Had some clouds and mist most of Saturday night, very cool evening, woke to sun and warmth (of course only-when you are leaving) Fair amount of people given the distance from the trailhead.

Took us 6 hours to get up and 3-1/2 to get back, we kept a pace that appeared at times like an organized fall rather than a hike. 16.7 miles total round trip. Only wild life seen were my friends the Mosquitoes- and they are always welcome at my camp :o)

More like early spring than midsummer. Lowland forest wildflowers in full bloom. Bugs & flowers go together, remember. Unnamed heroes have removed virtually all windfall, one of them 3' [see photo, loud cheer]. Just before the log crossing the E. Fork Foss is a campsite with a few pieces of ancient machinery (Pat. 1897); see if you can figure out what they are. Trail to here is a lovely, fragrant lowland forest walk. After the crossing, the honeymoon is over and the trail gets rougher as it climbs the old glacial sidewall into the stunning hanging valley. Rocks, roots, water on trail, old puncheon turning to soil. Snow starts above 4000', just before Jade Lake; it's firm, no post-holing, and melting fast, not a serious impediment if you're OK with snow. At about 3800', the trail crosses the stream on a log bridge that is potentially dangerous at high water (i.e., now) and the handrail is just a trap; I belayed the dog although the footing is easy when it's dry [see photo]. Jade lake had some open water, but for a week or two yet you could get really wet if you slip there. Opal Lake is 1/2 open. Trail kind of hard to follow here but you don't need it, it's snow travel still. Know how to use your compass if visibility is poor. Locket Lake is nearly open.

Snow conditions were firm but not too hard, ideal for ascent up the snow chute to La Bohn Lakes; steep, ice axe required, but not crampons yet. In later season, this is a much less pleasant talus slog and scramble (ascends talus, then curves left and follows the outfall). La Bohn Lakes completely frozen. One can camp on snow, or there is at least one marginal site for a tiny tent on bare bedrock for a near-zero-impact bivvy. Please avoid moving rocks; this creates permanent unsightly scars. Snow travel conditions for ascent of Hinman or skiing are ideal.

Tank Lakes/Foehn Lakes area still has lots of snow, but if you don't mind this, it's a great time to be there, and maybe an easier ascent than on the talus later on.

I had time to remove several small logs, rocks, brush, windfall debris, and open some drains. A couple strong parties I passed hadn't bothered. Consider: if we all form the habit of just a little do-it-yourself trail maintenance, these trails would practically take care of themselves. A 3"" locking blade with a 1.25"" serated section allowed me to clear many branches up to 2.5"".

Salute to the trail crews; the Necklace Valley trail has seen some great recent work. My original plan had been the Alpine Lakes High Route from the West Fork Foss R., but I'd worried about the washed-out river crossing there at high water. Recent front-page press about poor kids needing summer work; there's plenty to be done out here. Write your senators and congress people; there are more worthwhile things than tax cuts for the super-rich.

Necklace Valley #1062 June 25 2008

We left around 12:30pm on a sunny day, about 70 degrees. At about 3 miles in, we ran into a series of fallen trees that had completely covered the path. At the 5 miles point we camped on the flattest ground we could find.

Bug rating on the way in: 2/10 (one bug landing on you every 5 minutes)

Dropping the gear at the 5 miles point, we hiked up toward the lakes at about 4pm. Steep climb, ran into snow cover at mile 6, just before the branch-off of the river. The trail disappeared at this point and we wandered up the riverbank until it was too dark to return and make camp. Just as you reach the first of the snow cover (at the top of the steep climb) the trail continues a little more to the right than you'd think. Look for the saw-cut logs as a marker. The trail picks up again for 200 yards, then you reach a point where a lot of wood cutting had been done. Beyond this point, the trail is unnoticeable - but looking at a map we can see that it crosses the river almost immediately.

Cold night camped at 5 mile point. Headed out around 9am. Lots of bugs in the late morning. Sunny, but not much sun comes through the trees as you traverse the 5 miles back to the trailhead.

Bug rating on the way out: 8/10 (one bug landing on you every 15 seconds)

Enjoyable all-around, will go back when snow has melted more. Saw volunteer crews out on the way back working on the small stuff that had fallen between trailhead and mile 3. Thanks to you all.

Out of time to hike, after going up to Heybrook Lookout but we wanted to check on a possible hike for next time. We drove up road Foss River road #68. The trail head for the Necklace valley trail #1062 looked fine. (I have read reports that the logs to cross the river at 5 miles in, were washed out, so not sure about that part.)

Then we drove on to road #6835 to see the Trout Lake trail #1064. There was a sign at the trail head reporting that the first bridge at 1/2 mile is missing.

Both roads were in very good condition, dusty as usual!

You need the USGS 7.5' Big Snow quad for this trip. 15' maps won't do.

Parked at Necklace Valley Tr#1062 and hiked road to W Fk Foss R Tr#1064.

The West Fork Foss R Trail #1064 is rocky and rugged, but somebody's been doing work on it, and great turnpike near the lakes, Thank You. The Necklace Valley Trail #1062 is also very rooty and rugged in the upper parts, but a huge thanks to whoever's been doing the major windfall-clearing down below, also the great new turnpike.

SUGGESTION: Carry a buncha $10 bills in your pack to tip a trail crew! Wouldn't that feel great!? I once hiked past dozens of freshly-sawed windfalls, met the trail crew packing up their double bucksaw after clearing the last one, just for me, and now I wish I'd....

From Big Heart Lake, follow the trail towards Angeline. Just before the knife-edge ridge, you'll spot some cairns that mark the route south between Big Heart & Angeline to Chetwoot. This trail is strenuous but easy to follow , and over-enthusiastically cairned (although cairns are often welcome, if you're into making them, ask yourself which is a greater impact: leaving an unnecessary cairn, or leaving a beer can?). This track ends at the NW corner of Little Chetwoot Lake. [Note: Meadow Man 8/14/03 & Kirk White 7/17/04 apparently misidentify Iron Cap Lake, the glacial lake at 5450', as ""Little Chetwoot"", which is the little outfall pond below Chetwoot.] Camping possible along this route, but PLEASE be careful and no @#$%&*! fires please. Don't so much as turn over a rock. PLEASE.

Lovely camp at Chetwoot outlet.

From Chetwoot, I went ENE to cross the spur N of Pt. 6077 at 5500'; one could bivvy at the flat spot here, but my spot was better (read on). From here on, most of those open slopes you see on the map will be either snow or coarse talus. Not dog-friendly terrain in late season. Filled the water bag at Iron Cap Lake (I did not filter any water on this trip, but might have filtered this stuff if I'd brought the silt filter). Beckey (1st ed. p.239, Alpine Lakes High Route) says, ""A natural bench runs east from the lake outlet -- keep between 5200 and 5600 and follow to Iron Cap Pass,"" but on the NNE side of Iron Cap's N spur, the map shows steep cliff going up to 5800', so I went high, to about 5800'. There MIGHT be a way through this lower down, but I didn't look. I found 2 cairns -- welcome, for a change -- at approx. 5800', maybe higher, and called it a day. If you come this far, Iron Cap's view is worth it. Go high.

Bivvied close to 6200' on the N spur of Iron Cap with a peach-colored new moon and an archipelago of peaks floating on a sea of marine clouds that eventually rose and ominously engulfed us -- one of those rare alpine sights that made the next day worth it. Alas, no time or energy for Iron Cap, easily within reach. Sunset 7:30.

The next section was the crux. Awaking in a whiteout, fog turning to mist turning to rain, I returned to the cairns at 5850(?), wishing I had an altimiter (turn S too high or too low, and you're in trouble). Descended E to a bench at about 5520, finding a genuinely welcome cairn. Descended SE & SSE to another cairn at a rib just below 5400 and thence a contouring traverse to Iron Cap Pass. In steady light rain and slightly improved visibility and borderline hypothermia, it was comparatively easy (for me, not the corgi, this includes a moraine) to get to the N end of the Necklace Valley Trail.

If you do this trip, consider a minimum-impact bivvy on Otter Point, 6359, a walk-up, higher than Iron Cap.

I destroyed a fire ring at Iron Cap Pass. Please feel free to do this. Building a fire is the worst impact you can make. They last for hundreds of years. Do NOT move stones.

LV Necklace Valley TH #1062 7:40 AM

LV W Fork Foss R TH #1064 8:40 AM

Big Heart Lake 1:30 PM

N. Ridge Iron Cap Mtn. approx, 6200 7:00 PM

awake 6:30 AM

moving 7:40 AM

Iron Cap Pass 9:40 AM

end of Necklace Valley Trail noon

Back to car @Necklace Valley TH (no hurry)6:30 PM

Thanks again to the trail crews. You never get thanked by the dead-tired hikers who saunter through your clearings instead of stagger through the windfalls.

Necklace Valley backpack Sept. 9 to 13, 2007

At noon on the 9th, a Sunday, I found the last parking space at the trailhead along with 22 other cars. I backpacked 3.5 hours from the trailhead to the 5 mile river crossing on the log and stayed by the noisy tributary coming down from Necklace Valley to the East Fork Foss River, just next to the log crossing of the tributary where the steep part of the trail starts.

On the 10th I crossed the tributary at 10:18 AM and began the steep, rugged 3 mile section to Jade Lake. In earlier reports, no one has ever reported the presence of several “martin trees” along this trail. Probably everyone is struggling too much with the trail to notice them, or do not even know what they are seeing if they do see them. “Martin trees” are trees spaced about half mile intervals along a trail. In these trees trappers many years ago cut square shaped holes, about 4 inches by 4 inches, at about head level; the ceiling of the hole is slanted down to the back of the hole, while the floor is horizontal. The floor of the hole usually has a vertically placed nail, to which a chain of a marten trap was attached. The trappers would attach the chain of a trap with fresh meat to the nail in the hole, and so an unsuspecting martin would be caught. In the 1920s and 1930s martin pelts were worth roughly a hundred dollars, which unfortunately helped to tremendously reduce the martin population. Even today a pelt is worth about $15-20, but their reduced population makes them too much trouble to trap. I have seen these trees on trails to Big Heart Lake and on the Crest Trail just south of Stevens Pass. Usually the holes are showing signs of attempted repair by the tree itself, wherein the tree has started to close in the hole by growing more bark into the edges of the hole. On the trail from Trout Lake to Copper Lake is a giant double tree in one trunk of which a martin trap hole was cut – that hole actually killed one half of the double tree. I know martins still exist in this area, having seen one 2 years ago on the Tunnel Creek trail. They are extremely beautiful animals with reddish chest fur. And they can climb trees extremely rapidly, walk head first down tree trunks and also run steeply uphill faster than a dog can run on flat ground.

The “Memorial” log crossing of the tributary at roughly 3800 ft. needs repairs: the first and last posts attached to the downstream side of the main log are both loose and of little help to the unwary; both posts need being securely fastened to the log. Then the steel cable “handrail” needs to be tightened to give more than mental support. The approach log on the downhill side of the trail is slanted uphill to the crossing log and has no handrail. Going down this slanted unprotected log with a full pack requires good foot traction, balance and agility; it would be very dangerous when wet, with a fall onto the large boulders below certain to cause serious injury.

In the upper portion of the trail are quite a number of mud holes, most of which are easily negotiated.

Upon reaching Jade Lake at 3:30 I heard a search & rescue helicopter flying over Al and Locket Lakes and it then came to Jade Lake from the N and passed over Jade Lake from N to S only about 100-150 ft over the water. During this time I was busy pulling a burrowing black fly from my arm behind the elbow because I had unwisely worn a short sleeve shirt due to the warm temperature. I reached my campsite at Emerald Lake (EL) shortly later; this shallow lake is obviously named after all the green vegetation in it.

On the 11th I visited magnificent Ilswoot Lake (see photo). Then I came back to EL and went to the head of Necklace Valley to see La Bohn gap and find the start of the route to South Tank Lake (STL). The best way to the head of the valley is to go south on the trail on the west side of EL, not on the east side. After passing to the west of Opal Lake on the obvious trail through marvelous blueberry country, the path then twists and turns and gyrates up and down. The route to STL does not start at the cairn immediately beside the path (4887 ft at UTM 10T0631663, 5270058); that, and other cairns past it lead one to a “dead end” (i.e., no further cairns) up a stream in woods and according to the map and my GPS track follows SW up the stream to Foehn Lake.

The path to STL starts in the northerly end of the terminal moraine of the glacier that once came down from STL. On the well established path past the cairns to Foehn Lake, continue past UTM 10T0631713, 5270041 at 4885 ft along the terminus of the moraine until you come to a campfire site in a sandy area (4891 ft, UTM 10T0631747, 5270022); continue a little past the campfire site at the base of the moraine until you come to a small 3 rock cairn (4901 ft, UTM 10T0631745, 5269968) at which point you can work your way into the moraine which is quite open at this point and start to see other cairns leading SW to STL. The route to STL is never in the woods and, according to my GPS track was exactly parallel to the Foehn Lake route. A GPS point near the start of the cairns at the end of a small stream is UTM 10T0631709, 5269944.

Great care is needed to return N from the base of the route to STL to EL by the same approach route since the very twisty rolling trail splits at a bushy spot at which is difficult to see the desired trail back to EL – without paying careful attention you will easily head too far east. As you go south on your way to the STL path it is best to temporarily mark the approach trail in this area at several appropriate spots after you go past an obvious branch at 4818 ft, UTM 10T0631405, 5270407 until the obvious start of the Foehn Lake trail.

On the 12th I went up the STL route. Going up it is quite difficult at times to see the next cairn and sometimes the next cairn seems unbelievably placed in a spot which seems too steep to scramble up and might cause you to take possibly easier slightly deviant routes up such as beginning at UTM 10T0631432, 5269708 and going via UTM 10T0631389, 5269640 up to UTM 10T0631366, 5269655 which is on the correct path. This makes the going slower than if you exactly follow the cairned path, which is not always obvious from below. However, coming down, it is always relatively easy to pick out the cairn locations and path and stay on the steeply dropping moraine ridge crest. Where the path higher up is on less steep terrain a view N to Glacier Peak opens up, and past several small dried up muddy ponds a small patch of gently sloping snow can be seen below the NW shoulder of Point 6263 (Green Trails Map 175, L9). The correct path goes up the north edge of this snow patch (its easier to walk on the snow than the rock) and after several hundred yards of level walking past the snow comes to an overlook of STL (see photo looking SW from this spot: 5842 ft, UTM 10T0630646, 5269126). From this point it took 2.5 hours to return to my campsite at EL.

You might wonder why I took 2 days to backpack to Necklace Valley instead of the single day many people note in other trail reports. Well, I will be 71 years old next month, so at my age I am quite happy to be making any backpack trip, much less such a strenuous trip as this. Trail reports I have read of people doing day hikes from the trailhead to Necklace Valley or all the way to Tank Lakes makes me wonder about their sanity, but they must be in super condition and, if new to the area, be able to figure out a route to Tank Lakes while they are racing up – they must be able to float on the top of the mud holes and leap up and down some of the difficult boulders – plus their knees must be made of steel. I still downhill ski and want to continue to do so by not destroying my knees by hiking too fast downhill, and I, of course, need to use carbon poles for balance and support going down.

On the 13th I backpacked out. It took from 9:18 AM to 2:58 PM to get back to the East Fork Foss R. and I only passed 4 people on their way in. After getting water and resting a short time at the river, it took from 3:30 to 6:33 PM to reach my car.

Every day was completely blue sky with temperatures in the upper 60s and no wind except a welcome slight breeze the first afternoon at EL. The calm nights at EL were about 40-46 degrees. Bugs were generally not a problem while hiking, but tended to be bothersome at EL when eating breakfast or dinner. I never saw any native ground animals except one pika, but saw several birds including a raven and great blue heron, heard a woodpecker and one night an owl serenaded me to sleep. I only saw and met 4 other quite friendly backpackers while in Necklace Valley, so going during the week certainly avoids crowds.

I had only 2 negative experiences on the trip. First was an aggressive unleashed barking dog coming out from Necklace Valley; the owner said the dog would not hurt me but I told her I did not know that from the dog’s behavior. The second was on the way out: a tiny unleashed dog carrying its own backpack tried to climb up my legs. Some dog owners are absolutely uncaring about how other people might not like their “wonderful” (read obnoxious here) pets. Unleashed bad behaved dogs are a direct reflection of their owners and are not welcome. These pets might hopefully become cougar food. However, not all people have obnoxious dogs and on the way in I passed 2 well behaved dogs coming out with their owners. But, this is also the Alpine Lakes Wilderness Area, with the emphasis being on Wilderness, and people should not bring domestic pets into the Wilderness. Domestic pets such as dogs tend to frighten the native wildlife. For example, in Yosemite’s wilderness areas, pets are prohibited; dog owners – think about why the National Park Service prohibits pets in its Wilderness areas.

I left the Necklace Valley TH at 9:00 under mostly sunny skies, and arrived at Jade Lake at 1:15 pm. I found a flat rock along the lake to eat lunch and watch the fish swimming their rounds in search of food. I was surprised at the lack of bugs at the lakes. I think the fish were too.

I proceeded up the valley towards the base of La Bohn Gap before turning right and climbing out of the valley to lower Tank Lake. The bugs became noticeable immediately upon approaching the ascent route. I arrived at the lower lake to find Lola and her masters set up in a tent near the lake. Further away, Alex, a very friendly 74 year-old man was set up near a tarn. Alex was originally from Hungary, and fun to visit with. We shared climbing stories and high country experiences for a considerable amount of time before I even got camp set up! As for Lola, she only required the occasional belly rub.

Saturday evening provided an excellent sunset with red blazing clouds to the west. Night brought a star-filled sky. I found it impossible to close my eyes as I lay in my open bivy sack. Alas, early morning saw the clouds begin to roll in. I awoke for sunrise, but there wasn’t a sunrise to be seen. A breeze was roughing up the water in Tank Lake. A short while after sunrise, the sun did succeed in finding a hole in the clouds somewhere and lit up Overcoat Peak and Chimney Rock. But this only lasted about 10 minutes before returning to gray skies again. Around 8:00 the sun began burning off the clouds and blue sky began to appear.

I packed up camp and began my descent down at 9:30, arriving at the TH at 2:00.

August 18th, 2007: Necklace Valley

A long hike that got better and better the harder I worked. The rewards: a string of lakes, pasted together by meadows and granite, inlaid in a narrow valley, walled by towering cliffs wreathed in mist.

A 4:30am start meant that I saw nothing of my initial surroundings for the 1st hour, except for the small puddle of light cast by my head lamp. An hour into the hike the trail cozied up to the East Fork Foss River, and it was pleasant walking in the improving light. The gentle walk vended its way through a narrow valley on good tread (the best tread encountered throughout). Lush ferns, pleasant little streams and limpid, leafed-over pools etched the trail...all extremely peaceful.

5 miles after starting, having crossed the East Fork Foss River on 3 log bridges, it was over with the level part of the hike and on with the climbing. Not very much to say about the next 3 miles except that it was steep and grueling and I was glad when it was over. Jade Lake (the first of the Necklace Valley lakes) was the reward for the effort, a pretty tree-lined little lake surrounded by granite cliffs.

Full of energy at this time, I was more interested in heading for the high country and headed quickly by Emerald and Opal Lakes for the valley headwall and La Bohn Gap. As I reached the pretty basin at the end of the valley, I decided to forgo the Gap for a later trip and headed west to the Tank Lakes. The journey up to the Tanks was as good as it gets: “Magic Staircase”, “Stairway to Heaven”, pick whichever name sounds better. Granite slabs and talus slopes lead the way higher and higher, punctuated by enchanting little rocky pools. Clouds boiling through La Bohn Gap and spilling into Necklace Valley, laid out below me, were a stunning sight.

Finally, I reached the Tank Lakes basin. I spent a lovely 2 hours here, exploring the place: the two Tank Lakes, Foehn Lake and Tahl Lake were all beautiful. Initially, most of the views of the surrounding peaks were hidden in the mists, but I was finally able to get a few good glimpses, around my turn-around time.

On the way back, I spent a little bit of extra time wandering around the lower lakes. I also noticed that the last 5 miles were much less flat than they had seemed at the start...

Additional photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/shahiddurrani/sets/72157601551130533

Stats (including all side trips):

• Distance: ~23mi

• Gain: ~5,000ft (high point: 5,800ft)

• Hiking time: 12.5mi

• Wildlife seen: squirrels, marmots and a snake.

We got a late start on Thursday after spending the morning retrieving an errant cat from an unauthorized jaunt. Left Trailhead at 1:30 for the long hike up into Necklace Valley with 2 adults and kids aged 13,13 and 9. The first 5 miles are easy and boring--mature second growth with a varied understory. A little after the 5 mile campsite the character of the trail changes abruptly. Old growth in entered. The stream is crossed on a large log, then the trail head up 2500' in about 3 miles, alternating between rock scrambling, roots, mud and water. A Youth Conservation Corp group is working on the trail. We met a nice father and son hiking down who gave us an excellent recommendation on where to camp--Ilswoot Lake. After about 100 assurances to my 9 year old that we were almost there we finally found Necklace Valley. I was very relieved to get there and very happy to have the recommendation for Ilswoot, as it is larger and prettier than Jade, Emerald, Opal and Cloudy. When we got there the lake was glowing turquoise and we were treated to a chorus of owls. G. tried fishing and got a couple of strikes but no fish and a lot of tangles. We were, howeer, delighted to find a lot of King Boletes.

That night we were all quite exhausted but 3 of us woke up when there was a very noisy rockslide across the Lake.

In the morning we were sore but got going for what I assured the kids would be an easy, relaxing day hike to Tank Lakes. We wandered up the braid of trails to swampy Opal Lake, then climbed the rockslide to the west. On the way up we kept thinking we were almost there but kept seeing another ridge to climb. We had a near disaster when a boulder wobbled towards D's foot, but he lept out of the way and luckily landed safely. Finally the kids insisted we stop for lunch on top of a big boulder, and I realized that somehow my little camera had gotten lost.

I pushed us on over the next hill and we were treated to a stunning view of the biggest Tank Lake, and across the Snoqualmie River Valley, the glaciated jagged peaks of Summit Chief, Overcoat and Chimney Rock. Tank Lake is actually a small, deep tarn but we saw several fish jumping. G. set out to fish, while So swam and Si and D. went off on a wander that led to the top of ""Soupy Peak"" 6263. I wandered above the lake for blueberries and views of Bonnie, Otter, Tahl and Azurite Lakes, and even more Peaks. I then returned and we all had a refreshing swim. Tank is cold, but not as cold as Ilswoot and nice when you get used to it.

On the return disaster did strike as So slipped on a wobbly boulder and cut her knees on a sharp granite rock. One cut was very deep and scary. I ran to call for D. to bring the first aid kit and we used up most of my supply of gauze, butterfly closures and large bandaids. Patched up and calmed down, So hobbled back to camp. We feasted on soup with fresh Boletes, and macaroni and cheese.

By the next morning the nasty cut was still bleeding every time So moved it and we decided it was best to get back. The hike seemed just as long and hard on the way down as it had on the way up. Our packs were no lighter--being filled with Boletes.

Berries--not abundant, but good: high and low bush blueberries, red and blue huckleberries, salal, salmon berry, thimble berry, blackberry, raspberry, black currants (well the currants, salmon berry and salal aren't very good, imho).

Mushrooms--excellent. Chanterelle in the lower part, Boletes all over.

Bugs: horrendously bad mosquitos, a few flies.

Fishing: there are definitely fish; we didn't catch any.

Swimming: only if you like cold lakes.

Fires: not allowed

Campsites: many excellent, private sites

Recommendation: If you are looking for a day hike with high view to effort ratio, this is not it. For a multi day trip for experienced and fit hikers it is pretty good. Ilswoot is very pretty and Tank Lakes are spectacular. Be careful on the rock slide and keep an eye out for a small black camera case with a Canon Digital Elph inside.

I came across this idea one night while pouring over the Beckey guide. A little hatched trail, marked, ""Alpine Lakes High Route"", jumped out at me. I sent out an email to the usual suspects and then a week or so later I was lucky enough to heading up #1062 to the Necklace Valley. Low valley woods kept us cool and mushroom hunting kept our minds busy. We found a few old logging remnants, berries galor and an amazing crop of King Boletes.

The upper end of the valley was quite buggy and heavy in blueberries. We headed past the cabin at Emerald and up to the basin below La Bohn gap. The official trial ends and one must pay a little bit of attention. Before the basin itself turn right up a scree gully (cairned). Gain a thousand plus and you are above treeline in fantastic alpine country. Tarns and small tanks are littered about complete with stocked fish. The hiking the following day is an orienteering challenge but really not too bad. Head to the gap east of Iron Cap and soak in the views of Summit Chief, Burnt Boot etc.

Head down creek towards Otter (or was it Angeline?) until a couple hundred feet above the lake. Bear left up the slope towards the creek from Azurite. A feint trail sidehills steeply. All the while keep your eyes open for more mushrooms. Azurite is beautiful with some steep cliffs along the lake. Go around the south side until forced up. A hundred yards off the lake a ramp takes you thru the cliffs and on to another climb to Azure Lake.

I could go on and on (as this trip does, 35+ miles all together). But that would take the fun out of your own orienteering. Be assured their is plenty of bushwacking, some great trail and a good amount of Alpine/Sub-Alpine cross-country. Their is ample water through out and plenty of places to bail out early if you need to.

Shoot me an email if you want more details (austineats@yahoo.com)

This was a great trip to Necklace Valley. Rain flushed everyone out of the valley so I had it to myself for three glorious days of bright sunshine.

Great things happen. One of my best trips in 50 years of backpacking!

Trail conditions.

Brush: The trail is well brushed out very nice!

Down trees: The now fully logged out to Jade. The very nice FS Contractor did a great job. At Jade there are two trees across the trail that extend out in the lake.

Bridges: There are actually 5 stream crossings on the way in. Burns Creek bridge. A little bit out of kilter now but solidly there.

Three Bridges at 5 miles on the East Fork. 1st crossing: Make an easy crossing on two down trees just to the left. 2nd Crossing: (main crossing) When you reach the River, go left on old trail to a fallen tree. The surface has been leveled and a solid railing put in place (WTA?) 3rd Crossing: Immediatly go left again a few hunderd yards to a final easy crossing on a fallen tree. As you leave the fallen tree follow it's remains up into a rockslide. Follow the fallen tree then follow the ducks up to the trail.

Finally there is the Memorial bridge. Okay except the first stanchion is very lose. It looks solid but if you try to use the attached cable you will discover zero support. Don't use the cable for support till you get to the second stanchion. This is very!! deceptive and therefore very dangerous to the unwary.

No bugs worth speaking of.

Enjoy the trip

Rob

Amazing day! My husband and I took this trail today just as a late day hike not expecting such beauty. Very easy hike and the first lake is easily reached if given time. We only made it too the bridge that was washed away at 4.5 miles due to time. Very nice trail with pretty flowers and small creek crossings that our lab loved. At 2 points in the trail about 2.5 miles in there is thicker brush but not bothersome. Once we reached the main river it was incredibly clear and beautiful with the backdrop of the mountain. The only slight annoyance was a few biting flies and mosquitoes, but not as bad as other hikes. At 4.5 miles we turned around as it was getting late, and on our way back we noticed shredded trees about head high up the tree and bear scat here and there, but nothing like other hikes like bald mountain trail. Not too far from the trees that were clawed we heard a bear growling and moaning not too far away up on the hill above that scared us a little. We just talked loudly and made our way back to the car at record time.

All in all we give it a 4/5 and can't wait to go back and go to the lakes!

A friend and I started at 0945 and it took us almost exactly 7 hours to reach Opal Lake. We didn't rush and took our time and had a nice lunch at the point where you cross the river and begin the major ascend (about 4.5 miles). There was some blow-down along the way but nothing that could not be navigated. The river crossings were pretty smooth with the exception of one where the bridge was out and the trees that were used to replace the bridge were pretty narrow and with packs it took a little time to cross. The only other real hairy spot included a huge downed tree across the trail with a very severe dropoff. We found the bugs to be very bad once we hit Jade Lake. We continued to Opal hoping they would get better...no luck, in fact, we thought worse. We came back to Jade and spent the night. Once it began to get dark, the bugs did subside. The morning once again brought lots of mosquitoes during the tear down and hike out. We tried three different kinds of bug juice. The hike out took 5 hours. Overall, the trail is in good condition with a few areas where extra attention will be required to navigate.

Bugs are terrible right now-the worst I've encountered in 20 years of hiking in the Cascades. (DEET and mosquito coils proved useless).

The first 5 miles of this trail are pleasant and have few bugs (some biting flies) right now. That section only took us 2 hours (with full packs). After the river crossing, the trail becomes very difficult, consisting of sections that are badly eroded, rocky, slippery, rooty, under water, muddy, and always very, very steep. You gain 2500' in the last 2.5 miles to Jade Lake. One person we met said it reminded him of a climbers' approach, except worse, and much longer. There are also boulder fields, marked by cairns, to climb, and some large blowdowns make the trail especially challenging right now. Our agile, athletic dog had to be helped up the boulder fields and over the blowdowns. This last 2.5 miles took 2:50. We spent the night at Emerald Lake, about 1/2 mile past Jade. Others told us that bugs were terrible at all the lakes. Coming down the trail was worse-there are lots of opportunities for a twisted ankle (bring poles).

I think this would be a good 3 day hike later in the season, when bugs are fewer-a good Labor Day trip, perhaps. There are so many lakes up there to explore, and the trip in is so demanding, that it would be best to spend 2 nights up there.

The report from June 15th titled ""Necklace Valley"" (despite the fact the author never made it anywhere near the Valley) erroneously states that the first lake would make an easy day hike. It is actually a tough 16 mile round trip hike to the first lake (Jade).

Did on overnight at Emerald Lake. I visited Jade, Al, and Locket Lakes. All are snow-free, except a few remaining patches. Keep your eyes out for the grassy marsh landscape, maybe 100 yards or so to the right a few miles from the trailhead. I didn't notice it coming in; but was amazed to see this landscape so different from the forest I was hiking in. It almost looked like a rice paddy at first glance.

Despite what the sign says, no fording is needed. The bridge across the river at five miles is a fallen tree with handrails about a 1/4 mile upstream from where the trail meets the river. Don't trust the handrails on the other bridge further up the trail; one post if very loose. The trail is cleared the first five miles. But, there are a few big trees to clamber over or under during the 3-mile climb to the valley. Be prepared for gnats and a few mosquitos. Saw lots of frogs, a couple snakes, and a grouse with her chicks (right at the trailhead). Also bunchberry, Queen's cup, tiger lily, and lots of other beautiful little flowers. A beautiful place to camp.

Tackled Necklace Valley to Salmon La Sac via La Bohn Gap, and Dutch Miller Gap the four days following July 4th.

Trail #1062 from the Necklace Valley trailhead to the river crossing is is in superb condition! There is much evidence of bear in the area. The bark had been striped from the base of many spruce trees near the river crossing - must be eating the sap. The remaining distance to Jade lake had a few blow down but all are negotiable. Necklace Valley is just unlocking and all the lakes are snow free to the head of the valley. Many flowers are starting to bloom and the bugs are out in mass. Snow line is about 4500-5000 feet. One should be prepared for the pass at the head of Necklace valley - carry and use ice axe. La Bohn Lakes are completely covered with snow. However the views were outstanding with the beautiful weather! Many of the Peaks were visible.

The route down to Williams Lake is passable with the snow line again about 4500-5000 feet. Beautiful camps at williams lake with outstanding vistas to the the nearby peaks: Bears Breast, Summit Chief and Chimney Rock. Even a few goats were grazing on the slopes. The Williams lake trail #1024 down to the Middle Fork of the Snoqulamie is sketchy from the lake shore as the snow is still melting out. Find the trail clear at around 4000-4200 feet. Route is clear with no blow down.

The route up to Dutch Miller Gap #1030 is clear of snow until about 4500-4700 feet. The trail is in good condition but there is evidence that much rain had flowed on the trail at some time last fall/winter. Snow at the top of Dutch Miller Gap with nice views of Lake Ivanhoe and down to Waptus Lake. Circumnavigated Lake Ivanhoe on the east side to avoid exposure on the west side of the lake. Steep snow fields linger at the base of the cliffs and extend partially into the lake. Bridge is also destroyed at the south end of the lake connecting to the west shore line. East shore trail was the correct choice.

From Lake Ivanhoe down to the valley floor Trail #1362 was very brushy. This trail is not used often and is over grown in many places. A little patience revealed the trail though. The Chief Creek requires a ford right now - the water run-off is high but negotiable. The bridges at the Waptus river and Spade Creek are intact. However, many blow down remain on Trail #1310 between the junction of the Pacific Crest Trail and down to Waptus Lake.

Good trail between Waptus Lake and Salmon La Sac. The foot bridge is out at the crossing of Spinola Creek - used the horse ford.

This was a beautiful hike and the patches of snow kept most people away. This was our honeymoon Hike and we took along our five year old daughter, who did incredibly well. We backpacked for five days, well two days and basecamped at Emerald Lake for the next three while we explored the lakes. The first five miles are cleared of blowdown and on the way up we encountered a trail crew who had just repaired the bridge at the 5 mile mark. Contrary to the posted conditions, there is no fording required. The climb to Jade Lake has not been cleared out and for the first mile or so there are several blowdowns to traverse and climb across. The mile marker six just seeks to make fun of the progress you think you have made and really haven't. The trail is mostly free of snow until the last climb into Jade Lake. But these patches are easily travesible. There are still patches of snow surrounding all of the Lakes, except Illswoot. There are some great campsites across the drainage at Emerald and most are free of snow. The gnats are really bad, however it's better than the mosquitos that will come. Locket Lake is almost totally free of snow but we didn't make it to Jewel Lake. Our five year old daughter rebelled at the cliff traversing we did trying to get there. We couldn't find a clear trail to Jewel, either it was lost under the snow or didn't exist at all. Opal Lake was easy to get to and so was Cloudy and Illswoot. We hiked up to the Labohn basin below LaBohn gap but it was pretty much snowed in. Someday we will get back to see the LaBohn Lakes. The nice thing about this trip is that we basecamped at Emerald lake and dayhiked to all the other lakes. It was impossible to get lost.

IF ANYONE FINDS A CAMERA AT THE TRAILHEAD, PLEASE EMAIL AT ARIALTO@EXCITE.com. IT FELL OFF THE TRUCK IN THE PARKING LOT. PLEASE RETURN. IT HAS PICTURES OF OUR HONEYMOON AND OUR DAUGHTERS FIRST BACKPACKING TRIP.

I decided to take a day-hike on an overcast and damp Fathers Day on one of my favorite trails that I had not been on since last August. I didn't have to crawl over any obstacles since the many windfalls that I had read about in recent trail reports have been cleared to the 5mile river crossing, which was as far as I traveled this day. The two bridges at the 4.5mile and 5mile marks are washed away, as had been reported, but crossing is easy via the nearby windfalls; the way is obvious and branches have been cut by trail crews so there is only to walk across the rather substantial timbers to make passage. The river has re-routed itself and changed the look of things at the crossing; it had been about 15 years or so since the last bridge was washed away, so I suppose its about time.

I noticed along the trail that a few red cedars had freshly shredded bark from about 7ft high down to the base of the trunk and recalled that Slugman had reported on 4/23 that he suspected there was a presence along the trail, due to the reaction of his dog. I wondered...(cougar? bear?) After having lunch by the river and turning back to the trailhead, I was about 5 minutes into my return when I rounded a sharp turn in the trail around a big rock and encountered a black bear, head down, lumbering toward me on the trail. My reaction to yell ""Hey!"" startled the bear and sent it bounding in the opposite direction. I had seen bears out in the woods before but never so close, about 5 yards away. I made a point of making frequent noise on my way back until well after its retreating prints no longer showed on the trail. I think I got my heart-rate a bit higher than normal today.

All in all, a good day. I only saw one other hiker all day. Looking forward to a trip up into the valley once the snow up high melts off a bit more -- shouldn't be long.

With so many trails in the Mt. Baker-Sno National Forest down for the count the first five miles of the Necklace Valley trail leaps to near the front of the pack as an enjoyable (if not dramatic) spring hiking experience. There are significant blow-downs and some bridges out, but under the current conditions if you can drive to it and walk through it it's a keeper. The blow-downs are not fun but they are all walk-aroundable, slither-underable, or climb-overable without unreasonable effort. They tend to be clustered between 2-3 mile mark and one nasty one nearer the end. A NFS contractor was cutting on them today but by hand he is going to be busy for awhile. The bridge is out at the four mile mark but the creek is easily crossed by a solid logjam a few feet upstream of the trail. There are several ways to safely cross the creek at the 4 1/2 mile mark at the camping area. I did not go beyond that point today, and though the other side is a twisted mass of downed trees for a bit, a backpacker told me that the river is crossable by a large log. On a positive note (we could use any good news in these dark days) the flood did create a open gravel beach area along the river north of the camping area that I do not recall being there before. Other than these problems the trail is actually in excellent condition...no standing water issues. Lots of beautiful spring flowers, particularly in the more open areas beyond the three mile mark. Salmonberry, bleeding heart, trillium...all the usual suspects. And more Hooker's fairy bells than I've ever seen before. I got soaked from the wet vegetation but that was my own fault for not wearing rain pants on an obviously suspect day. Just a few other people on trail today.

Traveled the Necklace Valley approach (Trail #1062) along the East Fork of the Foss River to the river crossing at 4.5 miles - travel time 2.5 hours. Oh the wind-fall! Numerous trees (some are real Man-haters!)litter this route up to to the former puncheon bridge crossing of the East Fork Foss River. The bridge has been obliterated - no trace of the bridge remains. Indeed, the river is completly re-routed through the area adjacent to the small river camp near the crossing! Debris chokes the river and much of the valley area. We crossed the river and located the remainder of the trail proper to the upper lakes. Fresh bear tracks between the 4 mile mark and the small camp at 4.5 miles. Also missing a small bridge at approximaetly the 4 mile mark. Use caution at water crossings - Spring melt has begun and the water is runnning cold and swift.

I took my dog Daisy for an easy hike in the wilderness on Monday. I chose the East Fork Foss River to have a snow-free hike with little elevation gain since we were not going all the way to the Necklace Valley.

The drive in to the trail head provided two pieces of good news: the road was being graded and re-graveled, and a work crew with a backhoe was heading up the road to Tonga Ridge to make repairs.

The TH was deserted when we arrived, and the trail is in great shape for the first 2.5 miles. There were a few blowdowns, but they were only minor inconveniences. We took a nice long break at about 2.5 miles in, where the trail briefly touches the swampy area, soaking in the delicious sunshine. Mosquitoes were out in force, bad enough that I used some spray on my outer clothes and on the dog's pack.

After this break the hiking became much harder, with more-frequent blowdowns, made up of much larger trees, including a few real giants. We continued on for another mile, always hopeful that the current blowdown would be the last for a while. No such luck. We eventually called it quits 1.5 miles short of our erstwhile goal, the river crossing at about 5 miles in. The hike out took about as long as the hike in, due to the flattish terrain. We ended up going 7 miles in 6 hours, but we spent 2 hours resting and picnicking, so only hiked for 4 hours.

There was a lot of cool things to see and hear on this hike. Plenty of rich moss gardens, huge trees, cascading waterfalls on side streams, the sounds of various birds and insects, it really felt like spring has arrived in full force.

One odd note: as we were hiking out, about 7:30 pm (we started at 2 pm), Daisy became very nervous, spooked even, by something she perceived to be behind us. She kept giving me that look, the one that says ""HELP!"". The kind of look a sick dog might give right before throwing up. I would stop, look behind, and see nothing, and also hear nothing, not even the twittering of birds, which was very spooky. After that I walked with my bear spray out of my pocket in one hand, and my other hand on my knife. Of course, at the last blowdown, I lost my balance and slipped on a root, taking a rather hard fall on my right shoulder. Luckily my pack took some of the impact, so I only have a slight sprain in the shoulder today. But while I was on the ground just after the fall, I thought to myself that if we were being followed by a cougar or something, now was it's chance to get me or my dog. I have little faith in bear spray alone under such a circumstance. But no attack occurred, there may not have been anything there to attack us, and my shoulder was soon limber enough to hoist the pack and hike out. I must admit though that I had a very hinky feeling there for a while, that we were being watched and perhaps followed, by something very stealthy.

I never know if you are supposed to put trip date as the first day you start a trip, or the day you return. Oh well.

I got on the trail late, at about 12:20pm on Friday. This is one of the best trails I have been on lately. It starts in flat, deep forest. The trail bobs up and down 500 feet or so, but stays flat for about 5 miles. During this time you are in lush forest, cross small creeks, some thickly overgrown areas and some arid forest floor. A wonderful site along this trail are some of the old growth trees you can find, one that toppeled over was hollow inside and so large I could stand inside with room to spare! The trail along here is mainly in great shape, with some age starting to show in the rotting boardwalks in the marshy areas.

At about 5 miles you come to a river crossing over a long and stable log bridge. It is flattened on top and easy to cross. Follow the trail to another log bridge, much older, which leads to an old slide slope. Look for the cairns, but if none are found, head up to your right and you will run into the existing trail. Here you start to climb, and steep. I believe the books say about 2k feet in about 2 miles. It feels like it, but again, the beauty makes it bareable. Also, some of the scrub oak are changing color already, so you get a few short patches of beautiful color. By hitting this trail in the afternoon you also miss some of the sun, which helps to keep it cool.

Upon reaching the top, you will happen upon Jade Lake first. The trail is nice and skirts the narrow edge to another short climb into the Emerald Lake area. here you find quite a few campsites and blueberries. Continue on for Opal Lake. When the trail comes to a largeish junction, continue on for the trail towards Tank Lakes. If you are not up to the last climb, there are plenty of good spots here.

The trip up to Tank Lakes can be frustrating if the sun is setting and you are tired. Follow the water up into the canyon, staying to the right. Scramble through some boulders until you come to the top of the washout where it has cut through the sediment. To your right is a large boulder ridge. There are large cairns on top, get to the top and follow it up to a saddle that leads to the Tank Lakes, about 1000 feet above Opal Lake I believe.

Once over that saddle, I was AMAZED at the views. Fabulous peaks, smoothed and creviced granite on a massive scale. Beautiful and empty! Seems not nearly as many people come up there. It has a different feel to it and there are endless opportunties for day hikes, scrambles, peaks or just exploring. It can get windy up there though, so bring the fly or a decent sleeping bag.

On hte whole, the trails have a few muddy spots, but not enough for me to flag it. Also, very few bugs on the entire trip. When there are (morn & even) they are mainly mosquitos that are repelled easily with DEET. If there is a breeze they stay away. There are some snow patches up top, but nothing posing an issue on any trails. Enjoyable and perfect for a 3 day, 2 night trip with a whole day in the middle for exploring.

More photos at: http://picasaweb.google.com/noel.hastings

Worth the work!

Left Seattle Friday afternoon and got to the trailhead around 3 - hiked in to the campgrounds five miles in near the river - nice spots, and a great way to break up the trip. Got an early-ish start up the rough 3 miles to the lakes and made it to the lakes before the heat was too harsh. Steep, and tricky in some spots, but not as bad as some make it out to be.

Once we picked our camping spot we hiked up to Foen lake. Thought about the La Bohn lakes, but the trail was hard to find and the ascent looked ridiculously tricky. Foen lake was a good scramble up the creek bed and over rocky areas, but definitely worth the trip. The lake is FAR better than the three main Necklace Valley lakes, and we didn't see a single hiker going up or down!

Bugs weren't bad during the day, but awful in the evening and morning. The next morning we went down to Lake Ilswoot which is by far the best of the Necklace Valley lakes - so much prettier than Jade, Emerald, or Opal. There's one big camping area that seems ideal if you can get it. Hiked out the 8 miles to finish out the fantastic weekend adventure!

Someone dear to me said that those around us can be a reflection of ourselves. I wonder if the same can be said of landscape. I sincerely would like to believe such a thing, especially given the beautiful and peaceful place I visited this weekend. It is a ready match for the warmest smile on the loveliest face; enough to evoke that sweet sense of belonging.

Though worthwhile, this place requires considerable effort. The Necklace Valley trail always gives me a spanking; nearly half of its length is an obstacle course of rocks, roots, and mud holes. Plus it dallies about between contour lines for the first 6 miles, sneaking at least 500’ more elevation gain into the trip.

The route from Necklace to Tank lakes starts at the head of the valley; follow the last stream upward where periodic cairns lend re-assurance through shifting slabs of granite. Foehn lake is about as inviting as a tarn can be, nestled amidst what could be described a rock quarry. The area is really just a raw jumble of terminal and lateral moraines.

Once ridgeline is obtained the landscape eases into welcoming domes of bright rock and tiny tarns with grassy margins. South Tank has a cozy bedroom feel that invites one to quietly shuffle about in slippers, gazing at the views to Summit Chief, Overcoat, and Chimney. Tumbled blocks of granite gave the place an ancient aire, a-la Greek ruins.

The serenity was shattered repeatedly on Friday by hot-dogging fighter jets, testing their mettle on a mountain obstacle course. My poor hound ran with a look of doom at every shrieking pass less than 200m overhead. They eventually saw us and seemed to make a point of passing even closer. I saluted them dutifully with fingers extended, god bless America. Mosquitoes were another nuisance, but they were easily repelled with a constant coating of DEET. It is not yet time to forego a tent for the tarp.

This is the kind of place that reminded me that solo wilderness exploration can be as much an internal process as external. They are both rife with hurt and uncertainty, but in the end worthwhile. I plan on getting further into the unknowns while the opportunity allows; life is too short.

GREAT DESTINATION but TERRIBLE HIKE

If you are even considering a hike to the Necklace Valley (Jade Lake, Opal Lake, Emerald Lake, Locket Lake and so forth) you had better be in SUPERB physical condition. The first five miles are just good, normal trail but the last 2.5 miles are the worst I've ever hiked because it was not only steep (2500 ft climb) but it was over rocks and roots that made each step extremely difficult. A trail report said the hike was ""very strenuous"" but I didn't believe it could be that tough. Coming back downhill was even worse as each step threatened to be my last from a fall on rocks. Hiking poles helped a lot.

Once you get to the top, however, the pain fades as the vistas are enjoyed. It is truly a beautiful area. Watched a heron searching for frogs -- we didn't see any fish but heard from others that they caught some. Even the mosquitoes, although there were many, didn't seem to be hungry so the bites were few. Bring a facenet if you don't enjoy having them in your eyes and ears, however. Lots of photos and good memories, however, but I don't think I'll be back.

I took the high route - from Necklace Valley, over Iron Cap peak, to the West Fork of the Foss river. Having failed to entice anyone to accompany me, I started walking a (to the tune of a very loud owl) a bit before 6AM, arriving at the end of the trail a bit after 9AM. The Necklace trail is in as good a shape as ever, and while requiring some care near one water/log/rockfall crossing it is mostly straightforward to follow. Walking at a steady clip kept the mosquitos away, though some campers that I met along the way complained of how bad they had been the previous evening.

In checking the Big Snow 7.5' map (the Green Trails map is inadequate for this route) there is an obvious way from the Necklace valley towards the eastern ridge of Iron Cap. I was surprised to find nearly a dozen campers at southern Tank Lake, though I'd seen no other sign of people since leaving Necklace. While I had preprogrammed my GPS with the route, this was unnecessary - the paper map and compass were more useful, though there are always differences between map and terrain. This is still somewhat slow going as the terrain has a great deal of talus, so I didn't get to the beginning of the challenging part until nearly 1PM.

The crux of this route is the route from about 5700' of elevation to the peak at 6347'. I had originally hoped to make my way to the crest of the ridge some distance from the peak, and follow the ridge to the top. Unfortunately the ridge is cut by deep slots too narrow for the map to show. Much of the this ridge is climbing (rather than scrambling) terrain. In retrospect I wasted at least an hour seeking a reasonably safe route up, and while I managed a gully fairly close to the top I feel sure there is a better way. It was also in this area that I had to cross some steep hard snow - this is not to be attempted without an ice ax. Mosquitos were slowing increasing in number and took advantage of my slower movements and inability to retaliate as my arms were generally occupied with my scrambling.

I finally crestied the top about 3:45PM. There was only one prior entry in the summit register for 2006. With wonderfully clear weather there were excellent views all around. I couldn't be sure, but it seemed from there that the western ridge would be passable - and it was. This makes for a much easier descent towards the West Fork. It still had some tricky places, so it took nearly to 5PM to reach point 6077. Once there you can see a wide array of the lakes that inspires so many when they see the Big Snow map (or Green Trails Skykomish).

From 6077 it ""looks"" like just a quick romp to Chetwoot. But no, its more talus hopping - easy but slow - so it wasn't until nearly 6:30PM that I finally found a nice big campsite between Chetwoot and Little Chetwoot. I was amazed to find two parties there. The bugs got less intense as darkness fell, so star gazing was quite nice.

Somewhat sluggish the next morning, I didn't start walking until about 8AM. There is a trail through the cliffy area adjacent to Little Chetwoot; then the trail to the south end of Big Heart lake is absolutely delightful, with great views, tons of wildflowers, and many picturesque tarns. I'd never seen hummingbirds drink the nectar of heather before! The route over the spine between Big Heart and Angeline can occasionally confuse, but there are many cairns. The day got pretty hot, especially that long descent northeast of Copper Lake.

Final trailhead time: 1:15PM.

The road between the WFFoss and Necklace trailheads is only about 2 miles, so even in the heat I was able to return to the car in 45 more minutes.

I have talked to a number of people who have expressed an interest in making this traverse, or something like it. The high route avoids most brush and many cliffy areas present at lower elevations, but still requires significant scrambling skills. Do not attempt this route unless you have (at a minimum) the scrambling skills equivalent to what you learn in the Mountaineer's scrambling course.

We got a late start on Saturday morning, but hey - it's a four-day weekend and just pass the Solstice, so what's the rush? The ranger at the Skykomish station told us that there were ""lots"" of people in the Valley and wished us ""good luck."" If only her definition of ""lots"" were true all season - there were about 6 other cars parked at the trailhead - and we passed two parties on their way out. A bunch more came in through the weekend, but it was relatively quiet.

The first 5 miles of the trail were as advertised - fairly flat and easy. That part of the trail was in very good shape - only overgrown in a few small parts, but for the most part freshly trimmed and clear. There are really not many campsites on the first five-mile section along the river - two good ones (miles 4 and 5) and a few questionable ones.

The final 2.5 miles were as advertised - steep, rooty, and rocky. There were no blow-downs, but there was a lot of water on the trail (and some snow higher up at the lakes). I'm not sure that gaiters are necessary, but a fresh coat of waterproofing on the boots would be advised.

The first lake (Jade) was mostly clear, however, there was only one good campsite that was usable (right at the North end of the lake). The other ones were wet and muddy. The trail on east side of the lake is partially submerged, but the best option. Taking off your boots for a 20 foot section is much preferable to picking your way through the boulder field on the west side (trust me - we tried both). The second lake (Emerald) has spots of snow (on the trail and elsewhere), but nothing that makes it impassable or unusable. There were several campsites over there that were clear. Didn't make it to Opal or other lakes, but my guess is that they will be mostly clear in a week or so.

The bugs were pretty bad on the lower section of trail, but not bad at all (yet) at the lakes. Hiking the last three miles back to the car were rough – 80 degrees, humid, and buggy – DEET was of no use, since we had streams of sweat dripping off of us. No bear activity that we noticed, but the ranger said there was some pilfering of food a few weeks ago. Overall, a nice trip – it was hard work, but enjoyable. We thought the stands of old growth (miles 4 – 6) were more exceptional than the lakes, but we prefer the higher alpine variety, so make your own judgment!

First five miles were extremely ""buggy"". Take DEET - even that will have limited effect. On warn days this portion of the trail is very humid. Camped overnight at the river crossing - bugs wern't bad here- a good breeze helped. 56 deg. F for the low that night. Saturday punched into the upper lakes - visited Jade, Emerald, Opal and Illswoot lakes. All are snow free. The route past Jade lake is partially submerged - you'll need to remove boots and wade that portion. Some snow in the the afore mentioned lake area's but is melting extremely fast. Prepare for a lot of bugs in the upper lakes basin in the coming weeks. 80 deg weather made for an outstanding trip though.

The original plan was a snow slog up Maloney Ridge but on the drive out Hwy 2, we discussed the idea of the Necklace Valley trail. I think it was a great choice. We made it past the creek crossing (5 miles from the car) and up to the 2900' level on the trail toward the first lake. One other person was ahead of of us and probably punched in steps all the way to the lake. The first 5 miles only gain 500' of elevation but it is a very pleasant forest walk - the creeks are full but easily crossed, there is a ton of trillium and (my favorite) skunk cabbage, and the frogs. The frogs were downright noisy at the marshy area just inside the wilderness boundary. There are some blowdowns to negotiate and there is some snow for at least the last mile to the creek crossing. At one of the blowdowns there is some tempting vegetation to hang on to but upon closer inspection one will note that it is Devils Club. Why would I make special mention of that? Some of the brush that is covered by the snow is getting ready to release so men should be especially paranoid when stepping over these little plants. The logs are in place at the creek crossing but there is a short section of slippery log and rock after the the last crossing. Cairns mark the spot to pick up the trail above the ""mine field"".

I hit deep snow on FS rd # 62 just before the Tonga ridge road junction, so I turned around and parked about 1/2 way between the junction and the railroad trestle. A vehicle that's really good in the snow could make the junction, but it's snowmobile country beyond there anyway. I wasn't going to risk getting stuck to save a 5-minute walk. Daisy and I left the car at 11 am and we were at the summer trailhead 1 1/4 miles away in 45 minutes. I played some catch with the dog in the parking lot area, which was under a couple of feet of very firm snow.

We hit the trail just after noon, snow about a foot deep but pretty good walking. There were some snowshoe tracks that quickly petered out, the only human tracks we saw. Following the trail was pretty easy, as I have been there several times before, and the snow was somewhat ""grooved"" by the passage of previous feet before the last snowfall. In places, usually deep woods, the trail surface was completely bare of snow.

We next came to the bridge at Burn Creek, a high, true log bridge, covered in snow, with a raging creek and moss-covered rocks below. Crossing was no problem as the snow was not too deep and very compacted.

Then came the wilderness boundary and the descent to the level of a meadowy, swampy area that surrounds the river at this point. The snow was getting deeper and softer, and we had come about 3.5 miles already, so we picked a nice spot with a little view and took our turn-around break. We stayed until 3, then headed back. It took two hours of hiking and 1/2 hour of resting to get back to the car. Our trip stats were: 7 miles R/T, 600 ft elevation gain/loss. Not a knockout trail by any stretch, but still a nice wilderness trek on a good weather day.

I went to the Foss River Road with my XC skis thinking I'd be able to take advantage of some fresh snow. No way! There is NO snow at this level. There is some compressed snow on the road at the intersection to Tonga Ridge. So instead, I found a trailhead and decided it was a good day for a hike. Just past the Tonga Ridge turn off, there is a parking lot and a well marked trailhead. I now know that this trail leads to the Necklace Valley. This was a nice fairly level hike along a creek and though a nice forest. There is a lot of water on the trail and many small creeks now cross the trail. (Goretex boots were greatly appreciated today!) After following the river for a couple of miles the trail dropped down into a damp valley. I could see the shape of mountains through the trees. Seeing how I was dressed for skiing and not for high mountain travel, I decided I'd gone far enough. It was a nice spontaneous hike on a day without rain.

As we were trudging up the slippery trail to Necklace Valley I was thinking of how I would write this trip report. We started July 5 and hiked the relatively easy 5 miles to a beautiful campsite. The last mile the bushes were overgrown and there were waist-high nettles just waiting to sting hikers. There are several nasty roots that could trip anybody who is not watching. That night it rained almost all night, and the next day the trail was wet and difficult. It seemed so much farther than 3 miles! The blueberry bushes were laden with raindrops that spilled on us as we slid by. The part from mile 6 to mile 7 was the worst, some of the trail was like a stream. The trail was generally easy to follow except soon after crossing the Foss river there is a log crossing a stream that seems to go nowhere, but really is a trail up a rock slide.

In terms of flowers, we saw lots of twin flowers, dogwood, and higher up the bear grass was starting to bloom, one columbine, several queens cups. There was no snow left at the lakes (we only got to the first two). In terms of bugs, they were not too bad, several in the evening but the respected the repellent. And there was a black and white butterfly with orange-tipped wings, reminding us that not all bugs are annoying.

We camped again at the five-mile camp, shortly before crossing the river. After dinner we hung the food and washed out our dishes and left the pans on the ground. When we were packing to leave the next morning we discovered a hole in the lid (see picture) - and the lid had been crushed down about 1/4 inch. We think it must have been a bear, although we didn't notice any tracks. Whatever it was didn't bother our tents or packs or the food that was hanging.

We walked a couple miles up the trail to Necklace Valley through lush forest and a smattering of forest floor flowers. Then we stopped for lunch and walked back enjoying the forest for a second time.

This trail's not as flat as I remember it (and this was the part before it goes straight up the mountainside...). The road is in relatively good shape with a few potholes and the trail is fine, though it's starting to get a bit overgrown here and there. Only 5 cars in the parking area and we never saw another person during the hike. Did see a coyote cross the road just before we arrived in Skykomish.

No bugs.

A boy and his dog hit the trail late 6/17. It was noted on the board at the TH there had been some bear activity, specifially a yearling had gotten into someones food at ""4-mile camp"". Thus we are all advised to do what we are all supposed to be doing already, HANG UP YOUR FOOD. The low trail is in good shape, having started so late we camped somewhere @4-5th mile before the river crossing. The only nocturnal activity that stirred me was bugs, as I slept under tarp w/ bug net that my pup decided to push open. In the morning we ate some delicous target trail mix and headed out. It had rained during the night leaving all the brush overhanging the trail wet and in process soaking me. It should be noted that the low trail has some patches of nettles both arm and knee height- wear longsleeves and pants. The 2-3 miles climbing are rough on a potbellied man like myself but wonderdog and I cleared it ok. As the last report says, the trail is very very wet right now, and while I think my crummy boots allowed my socks to sponge up most of it, I'll bet theres still some soupy mud to go around.

The lakes are of course georgeous, and once up to the tippy there is plenty to roam around and plenty of good campsites. The fish were a bit finicky, not having any of my kastmaster, spoon, or black fly off my spinner rod. Hrrrumph. I wouldn't mind spending more time convincing them to strike, but the pup gets bored pretty quick.

Having spent the day up there we decided to try to play adventure racer and beat feet out. My hurried pace resulted in a good bit of tripping and falling, slick going up=even slicker going down. Be careful. I would not want to descend from the lakes to low trail after dark. As it was it was plenty dark along the low trail on the way out.

Overall, a wonderful trail. Good waterproof boots are a requirement to fully enjoy though. Take care!

We hiked up the Necklace Valley trail and spent the night at Jade Lake. Trail is in great shape and an easy ~flat walk up until the ~5 mile point at the big bridge crossing. After that, the steepness of the trail caused quite a lot of water on trail (a creek, really!) intermittently from miles 6 - 8. You may know that the trail is in pretty nasty shape in those last few miles, anyway. It snowed at night, leaving almost an inch, and we got up very early and left Jade Lake for a snowy/changing to rainy hike in, until descending to ~3500 ft where it was light fog/drizzle and sunbreaks. No bugs (maybe b/c of rain). Pretty muddy, though! There is one big blowdown that someone else already noted in a previous report, right before the big bridge crossing.

4 of us from Monroe headed out to the neckless valley area, east fork of the foss river on the 20th, regardless of the wether report for foul weather. We were counting on luck. We left the 20th at 9am. The plan was to return to town on the 22nd. 2 nights, 3 days. When we reached the trail head to the neckless valley it wasnt raining. However, the past sun had encouraged huge growth amongs the foilage allong the trail. This foilage was about thigh high. So even though it wasnt raining, we got wet from the knees down. The trail is in excellent shape. There are some muddy spots, but that was expected.There are still a few large trees down across the trail, but they are navigable. We hiked the 4 miles in to the camp site 200 yards or so short of the bridge that crosses the east fork, where the trail begins its assent to Jade Lake. We camped out for the night. Birds and chipmunks were the only critters to be seen at this point. However, we did see some scat on the trail which I thought would be feline of some type. The morning gave us a slight wind chill but no rain. After breakfast we began the climb. After crossing the river we meandered through the woods until it petered out below a rock slide. It was clear that we were to climb the length of a few logs and then follow some piles of rocks over the slide. During the climb up to Jade Lake we hit every kind of terrain and wether you could imagin. Forrest, slides, meadows, snow packs. We edged along the edge of many georgous rapids and falls. heard eagles call out and were buzzed by more that one nosey bee. After many hours of serious grunts, strains and time outs, we made it to the lake. Wow! What a site. It sits in the shadow of Bear Breast mountain. We stopped for lunch and coffee on the rock slide, while one of our hikers tried to catch a fish. Several 7 incher brown trouts nibbled at the hook, but no takers. The wind brougt in a chill factor and some snow, so after 45 minutes or so we headed back down to camp, arriving back around 530pm.

we spent the rest of the day light ours replenishing the body with grub and drying out.

I was up at 5 am and back on the trail to the truck by 630am. Arriving at the trailhead by 820am It rained hard. My shoes filled up with water and the stinging nettles prodded at my knees, but who cares..It was worth the effort. I'll be back!

East Fork Foss River 4/30/05

This trail is the low approach to the high Necklace Valley in the heart of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. It's snow free early and has an easy gentle grade. My Mountaineers Club beginning hiking group liked it a lot. There are minimal views on this trail: a couple glimpses of the peaks on the other side of the valley, some rapids and pools in the river near where we had lunch, a powerful but small waterfall, and a swamp/lake. Mostly it's a forest walk thru a wilderness regrowing after the railroad logging of a century ago.

Spring flowers were almost everywhere; trillium, stream violets, calypso orchids, skunk cabbages, bleeding hearts, salmonberries, oregon grapes, and hooker fairybells. Over a thousand trillium and perhaps a hundred calypso in bloom. Vine maple leafing out and ferns sending up new fronds added bright green to the color palate. The trees are mostly douglas fir and hemlock 100 to 150 ft. tall. Some huge stumps and nurse logs are still present to show what the old forest was like. In a couple of centuries the new trees will be monsters too.

We saw only 3 other people on this hike and those in the span of a minute, as two friends from the Mountaineers showed up as we were starting lunch quickly followed by one more person. Our friends continued on to the river crossing at 5 miles while we turned around at our 3 mile lunch spot so we didn't see them again. The trail was in good condition with no obstacles. There are 5 or 6 easy little creek crossing .

To get there: drive US2 (Stevens pass hiway) just past the Skykomish ranger station and turn right onto the Foss River Rd. (paved). It will turn to gravel and become Forest Rd. 68. Stay on that for about 4 miles to the trailhead on the left (trail #1062).

Stats: 6 miles 500 ft. elevation gain top elevation 2150 ft. 67 miles from my north Seattle home.

Robert Michelson

Headed out today with a friend with the intention (succesful!) of making an early season trip up Necklace Valley to the Tank Lakes. I'd heard that the area was pretty nice and the countour lines seemed pretty far apart on the map, so seemed like it would make a good trip. And wow. up.gif Easily my best day out in a year, maybe the best out in two.

After an obligatory stop at the Sultan Bakery (blueberry scones are so good) we reached the trailhead and started hiking around 9 am. Foss River Road has been regravelled at the start, which cuts down on the fishtailing in the mud that I encountered last time I was out there. The first 4+ miles of the trail are basically rolling/flat, paralleling the river. We heard an amazing number of frogs from the marshes, but decided not to investigate.

After crossing the river (my legs hurt too much to go downstairs and get the map to look up the name), the trail ascends rapidly up to the Necklace Valley through forest and open slopes. Spectacular views to the east of near vertical rock faces. Past mile 6, the snow starts and the trail condition degrades. Lots of water on the trail above this point. Slippery old puncheon, mossy rocks, and mud. All covered by a thin layer of concealing snow. Gotta love early season.

Reached Jade Lake around 11:30. The lake's starting to melt out around the edges, but is still completely snow covered. Crossed a very sketchy snowbridge at the southern inlet and quickly climbed towards Emerald Lake. Here we broke off from the trail and contoured up gentle slopes, aiming for the low gradient approach to Tank Lakes. Amazing views of La Bohn gap to the south.

A little before 3 we crested the ridge looking down on the Tank Lakes (totally snow covered) and just couldn't stop grinning. 360 degree panorama of snow capped peaks and ice covered lakes. A quick class 2 scramble brought us to a local peak above the lakes and we hung out for a while, soaking in the views (and the sun). Glacier, Iron Gap, Azurite Lake, and Angeline Lake all visible.

Dropped down from the summit around 3:20 and made short work of the glissade. Back to the car (and pretty tired) around 7:00. ~17 miles, 4500 ft gain.

On January 29 and 30, 2005, I soloed from the Necklace Valley trailhead to La Bohn Gap. Though there were patches of snow at the trailhead and Foss River Road, there were only two short sections of six-inch deep snow toward the end of the four-mile flat trek to the East Fork Foss River crossing. After the crossing, the trail was snow-free in the forest, and six to twelve inches deep in the clearings and open slopes. At the second river crossing, at about 6 miles, you have to go left ten or fifteen yards to pick up the trail. I missed the worn rocks on the left on the way up, and continued straight at the end of the bridge, which deprived me of trail for an eighth of a mile. For the final mile before the Necklace lakes, the trail follows stream beds steeply. The first lake, Jade, is surrounded by snow, and the trail traverses of its east bank. The trail was completely snow-covered at this point, so I boulder-hopped along the stream connecting Jade Lake and Emerald Lake for a couple hundred yards until I arrived at Emerald Lake (4800'), where I pitched camp. At about 2:00 p.m., I put on snowshoes and continued up the Emerald Valley past Oval Lake to a hogsback ridge full of cairns that led to the La Bohn lakes and up a bowl to the gap. Sunset from the La Bohn Gap offers fantastic views of Bear's Breast and Mt. Hinman on the south and east side, and the Necklace Valley's chain of lakes on the north side. A dusk descent led me back to camp at 6:30. Emerald Lake received three inches of snow during the night. On Sunday morning, I followed some unidentified animal tracks out for two miles -- their source had apparently followed my tracks in to within fifty feet of my campsite. Despite the undisclosed visitor, this is a fantastic winter overnight trip, though this January could hardly be called winter.

My hiking bible gave this one a perfect 10, but I would have to disagree. I did it as a day hike, which made for a very long day (about 17 miles) for little aesthetic reward. It's not until plodding through about 6.5 miles of dense wood that you get up high enough for some clearing. And the last 2 miles are very steep up a stream bed. The trail is rock stepping, muddy and rooty. The lakes were nice, but the clouds had formed a thick cover, muting the colors to too much grey. Although I'm sure it would look different on a sunny day, the trail is still just spends a long time meandering through dark woods for my taste.

Miki the Border/Springer and I headed up the Necklace Valley for three days. Campsites are noted at 3,4,5,6 and 7 miles with the sites at 4 and 5 miles situated attractively near the river. The trail is in very poor condition between 3300' and 4000' elevation, about 6 to 7 1/2 miles in. It is rooty, rocky and muddy with many potential ankle twisting spots and must be even worse early in the season. It was the same way on my last visit 4 years ago. I'm not sure why it has not been repaired or re-routed. Passing by Jade Lake, which has two marginally attractive camp spots right on the trail, I went on another 5 minutes to set up camp at Emerald. Emerald Lake still has the log cabin shelter which is perfectly habitable although I've never seen anyone use it. It has built in bunks and would sleep 4-6 folks in comfort. Nearby is a privy, which is also a comfort. There are three or four sites at Emerald plus sites at Locket, Al's, Ilswoot and Opal. Cloudy is supposed to have a site also but I haven't seen it. The next morning we hiked to near the valley head along a way trail and took the right fork towards the Tank Lakes plateau. This route initially follows a stream which drains snow fields below Iron Cap Peak. There are a few cairns to follow as tread is intermittant. Eventually most vegetation is left behind and you just scramble up the rubble along the stream. You then exit the stream to the right to attain a hogback about a 100' above with more cairns, rubble and semblance of tread. There are numerous tiny tarns. To reach South Tank Lake you actually go over the top of the ridge ahead where a shoulder of Iron Cap drops down to meet it. The area is not as flat as your map might seem to suggest and is quite bouldery so it's not exactly like strolling around. I visited North Tank, very bouldery. I looked down on Foehn but did not visit it's shores. I didn't see any camp sites anywhere although I can't say I looked everywhere. I intended to visit Otter Point but saw a lot more boulder hopping ahead and decided to head back. It is very interesting to see how much less snow is in La Bohn gap than in years past. In a few more years there may not be any more. People I met along the way had descended the snow but they and others were curious about the trail route to La Bohn Lakes. It does exist and this is how it's done- When you reach the head of the Valley and the gap is right in front of you, look to your left. You will see the waterfall from Lower La Bohn Lake. To the right of the waterfall is a tongue of vegetation on a minor hogback that looks like it has a trail at the bottom. This is not the way, it peters out, but has been created by generations of hikers going the wrong way. To the right of the vegetation is a talus slope. Climb this several hundred feet until you pick up a skinny way trail along it's left side that takes you precipitously but neatly to Lower La Bohn (good camping). From here you can easily reach the other La Bohn Lakes and the very beautiful Chain Lakes. Chain Lakes have a nice campsite on a knoll and a very neat site carved like a niche at the top of a small cliff near the bottom of the chain of lakes. Enjoy!

This is a report of a July 17, 2004, one-day, 25-mile loop hike connecting the West Fork Foss River trail #1064 through Trout, Copper and Big Heart lakes with Chetwoot lakes, Tank lakes, and back down the Jewel lakes, Necklace valley East Fork Foss River Trail #1062. Take Hwy 2 east past Skykomish, then up the Foss river FS road to the trailheads. Many thanks to Meadow Man who wrote a trip report on this loop on Aug 14, 2003 that gave me great guidance during this epic 18 hour trek. I will leave off some details which you can get from his report. I have about 40 pictures of the hike you can see at: http://www.whitefamily.bankslake.com/archives/2004/2004-07-17- kirk-big-heart-lake-loop-hike/index.htm The attached pictures show us at Copper lake and then Joel above Angeline lake almost reaching Little Chetwoot lake. As a scoutmaster in recent years I have led scouts backpacking up to Copper and Big Heart Lake several times, as well as up into the Necklace valley to Jade and Emerald lakes. But I always wanted to complete a single loop hike connecting these two great lake areas. I tried once from each direction from Foehn lake heading west, and Big Heart heading east, but was always stopped by snow too deep to trudge through. Now though the conditions are ideal this summer with the snow level at 5,400-5,600 feet or higher and good weather. Here is the Report: I went with a 25 year old friend Joel, who would be the safety buddy for my 47 year old body. Our goal was to train our legs for a Mt Rainier summit climb in 3 weeks, of which I have completed 5 successfully and Joel none yet. We camped Friday night at the Trout lake Trailhead of #1064, and awakened to a beautiful blue sky on Saturday. We parked the car in the lot, not finding anyone to hitch a ride to park it at our destination lot at the foot of trail #1062, East Fork Foss. I would later pay the 2.5 mile price for that mistake. We did not get started till 8 AM, but only carrying daypacks with food, water, ice axes, and rain gear, so the 1.5 mile hike past Trout Lake (2,100 ft) was easy and lovely, but the always sweaty 2.0 mile, 1800 ft climb up to Copper lake, exposed to the morning direct sun, was quite warm bordering on brutal. Copper Lake (3,961 ft) was beautiful, and despite a few bugs, was a nice picture postcard place to take a snack break. Mosquitoes were all over this hike and we used plenty of repellent to keep them at bay. No obvious bites, but they got me 40 times through my shirt at the shoulders I came to find later. Spray there too next time. We then headed up the easy 1.5 m trail to Little Heart Lake (4,204 ft), and then the 1.8 mile 700 ft elevation up and around the ridge and down a bit to Big Heart at 4,545 feet. The time from the car all the way (6.5 miles) to Big Heart took about 4 hours. No snow anywhere and the trail in great shape. We ate lunch at the logjam outlet with the thundering falls singing in the background. Big Heart is one of the best short backpack trips in the Alpine Lakes as it does not attract large numbers of campers due to the effort to climb there, and the lake is large and excellent for views, day hikes to nearby peaks, as well as rock jumping and log rafting. Our next destination was Chetwoot lake and I had heard several descriptions of how you could just climb straight south over the 5,400 ft ridge between Big Heart and Angeline Lakes to get to Chetwoot. I had done this partway to some degree on past hikes but never found a distinct trail. This time we hiked straight south until rock cairns and a well worn small trail took us east clockwise around the ridge, then south on the eastern ridge side to an Angeline Lake lookout and cliffs, then a quick switchback west up to the saddle in the middle of this ridge between Big Heart and Angeline. From there scattered cairns and some trail led us south towards Chetwoot. From Big Heart onward to Tank Lakes this is steep, scrambling and ducking type hiking which would be laborious with a pack on, but doable I suppose. Hiking straight south we hiked up random snow patches and rock in a lovely area with views of Big Heart's south end, until we ended up passing a small lake on its west side. From here we were unsure what a now visible lake to the east was: had to be either Chetwoot or Angeline still, but it was bordered on the east by steep cliffs so looked like Angeline to us. Our GPS and maps helped greatly to determine finally what it was by size and by our hiking direction on the GPS . We had to hike toward it to determine it had a north end outlet and thus was Chetwoot (4,900 ft). The hiking time from Big Heart to Chetwoot was 3+ hours for only about 2+ miles - it was THAT rough with day packs. Note to self: ALWAYS have a good GPS receiver when doing bushwhacking hiking where the trails are not on the map. At the minimum have good maps and an altimeter. We had all of them to cross check each tool. It literally saved us hours of wrong-way hiking and probably was the key thing we needed to complete this hike safely. Crossing the exit stream out of Chetwoot (very scenic camp site) we headed straight east and up toward what the map and GPS said would be Little Chetwoot lake. Unfortunately there is a ridge guarding Little Chet which is in a NE opened glacial bowl. We ignored Mountain Man's directions that were vague on this point and climbed straight east and up to the ridge crest, through rock and some snow patches ( Ice Axes were used here for added snow traction and safety though not too technical or dangerous), to 6,000 ft and the ridge top. There we saw Little Chet way down below at about 5,400 ft. We scurried down a fairly etchy descent into a perfect glacial bowl and side traverse to the outlet of LC in very loose rock scree all the way (no snow at all - was sun exposed) and then to the far east side of the lake. We went up to 5,700 feet and headed around the north ridge of Iron Cap mtn, until we had to decide to chance the rocky cliff advance or handclimb up and through a small light-colored rocky gully to get some tree and heather covered terrain to continue on. We chose the gully, and despite risk of knocking small rock down on each other we were up it quickly and had a safer, though still steep, cliff traverse around the ridge. The trees and heather were obstacles but comforting to hang onto and hike through with the slope being steep and cliffs awaiting any stupid moves. We continued through this southerly traverse, finally descending to about 5,300 ft and a ridge running south to east then to NE that we kept on the top of. Huge open snow fields to hike through at this point but fairly flat, and solid: no post-holing at all. Excellent views east of a huge rocky bowl, and Otter lake way below to the NE and North, and waterfalls coming off the opposing ridge from Bonnie and Tank Lakes. From the ridge we hiked on you can also see clearly the Middle fork Snoqualmie river way down south at 3,800 feet as well as the magnificent spires of Chimney Rock, Overcoat Peak and Summit Chief Mtn all about 7,400 ft tall across the river valley. We even saw real people on the trail way below which was comforting to know we could have bailed out on the loop hike and descended to a well traveled route if ever in real trouble. Staying on the high point of the ridge we hiked N-NE up gradual slopes (no trail or markers anywhere) until we finally saw some cairns at about 5,600 feet that were not much help as they led us, then disappeared. But they did confirm we were close, so we used the GPS to guide us almost straight north from that point climbing on rock till we found the lowest Tank lake at about 5,850 ft. That was a big relief to confirm (by an excellent GPS on-screen map) that we were walking gradually uphill past Tank to the other Tank lakes. By this time it was after 7 PM and we tried to motor NE starting downhill to 5,700 ft Foehn lake which is very small, like the Tanks, then spotting an occasional cairn and randomly climbing down to Opal lake at 4,800 ft. There is no real trail here and it is very much hit and miss where it is hikable due to streams running everywhere. This was about 7.5 miles from Big Heart over some very rough and minor risky, but outstanding view-filled ground. It took us about 4 hours to hike from Chetwoot to Tanks/Foehn lakes. We found what we thought was Opal Lake (it was really Crown lake)and our green trail map said the trail was right on its west shore, where we found nothing, so assuming stupidly the lake had risen over the trail, we bushwhacked through rock and tree to the end of the small lake. There we found no trail so searched in vain, and finding nothing, just plowed ahead north watching GPS and looking for tread. We should have headed west just 50-150 yards and would have found a well beaten path along the west side of Emerald Lake, an old log cabin I recalled from years earlier, and the clear trail to Jade lake, then down and out. But instead we mistakenly got too far east, mistook Crown Lake for Opal, and our Topo and GPS maps being incomplete, we could not self-correct early on. Instead we found rockslides and trees, clear enough to pass through and ended up on the south shore of Ilswoot lake at 4,590 ft. Much to our dismay we were far from the main trail and being 8:30 PM it was getting dark. So we trudged back west uphill and over a ridge, spotted some campers already snug in their beds, asked where we were and how to get to the main trail. They directed us to the east shore of Emerald lake, where more snuggy tenters told us how to get out to the trail and down to Jade Lake. I've rarely been more envious of backpackers who had their beds all made and were headed to sleepy land, while Joel and I had 3,000 vertical feet to descend and almost 8 miles to get to the East Fork Foss parking lot... IN THE DARK. Luckily we were smart enough to pack headlamps that lit the way, though the trail lost itself a few times from us, but we just had to keep putting one boot in front of the other for several thousand steps. Much of this trail down to the East Foss is in creekbed so very steep and awkward. After crossing the Foss River it is a flat 4.5 mile out but we saw nothing in the dark to report. We started down from Jade lake at 9 PM and arrived at the trail end at 2 AM (8 miles in 5 hours with few breaks), 23 miles from the morning start- Bushed, beaten and angry at biting off more than we should have maybe chewed, and at getting lost in the Necklace Valley lakes which wasted time, energy and precious daylight. From here I told Joel to take a nap while I trudged from 2-3 AM over to the West Fork trailhead to get the car and get us out of there. We called our wives once in Cell range on Hwy 2, and they forgave us our lateness and the delayed calling. My wife knows the drill and told Joel's wife to not panic till after 3 AM as I am always later than planned. Driving home was totally impossible so I stopped at a park-n ride in Kirkland to sleep 45 minutes before safely returning to Tacoma, where I crawled into Bed at 6 AM. Then up at 10 AM for church to say thanks for all the Divine protection as well as the fantastic sites we witnessed in the proceeding 24 hours. All in all a spectacular hike if one is up for it. Recommend starting VERY early in the AM (it was daylight at 5:30 AM) and bring GPS, Axes, repellent, headlamps, and a good camera. The sights are astounding. Better yet, pack overnight gear and take it slow and enjoy the experience longer.

I've been itching to make the ""DMGWilliams Lake over labohn gap and out the necklace valley"" trip for many years. Finally convinced a few friends to join.

Started out Thursday night. Just a few blow downs within the first mile on the DMG/Williams lake trail. Snow free at Pedro camp. Great views with plenty of wildflowers. We took the turn off to Williams lake where we encountered our first patches of snow. It was also here were we could see our destination for the day. The top of la bohn gap.

We had a quick bite to eat and then proceeded to scamble up the scree slopes on the northwest side of the lake. After an hour of some serious scrambling and bush wacking we made it above tree line. From here on up it was 80% snow. We reached the chain lakes about an hour later. The lakes/bowl are 95% snow covered.

We rested up for the final push to the gap. After a quick traverse of the bowl (see cell photos) we reached the crest of the gap. Very thick fog moved in at this point. Not having made the trip down into Necklace from this side we opted to hold out until the fog cleared. Unfortunately, this didn't occur until the following morning leaving us to camp out at the gap, which is nearly snow free on the north side. The largest of the labohn lakes is complete snow covered. The smaller of the three are nearly thawed.

The chute into Necklace is 90% snow covered. Without crampons we opted for the steep trail running parallel to the falls fed by the labohn lakes. Wet, slippery and hard to find at times, this is managable.

The next day and a half were spent fishing the various lakes in the valley. No snow. Bugs were moderate. Fishing is good on Lockett/Ilswoot.

Overall good trip.

With Friday off from work, time to check a trail I had not been on before, so headed up SR-2 to Skykomish and the Foss River Road. When I got to the trailhead the parking lot was empty. The first mile of the trail is on an old road, used when the area was logged many years ago, as the second growth trees are getting pretty large. The first big stream crossing is on a old log/cedar plank bridge over Burn Creek, which is really roaring with the snow melt high above. After getting to the end of the old road, the real trail starts with several ups and downs along the way. Passed Alturas Lake/marsh while going up the valley. For some unknown reason, this lake is not shown on the GT Skykomish map, but is shown on my 1905 U.S. Dept. of Interior Geologocal Survey map. The lake is still there. After a few more creek crossings, the trail comes back down to the East Fork of the Foss River. I went as far as the log bridge crossing, 5 miles from the trail head. The bridge does need some work, as part of the hand rail has rotted away and fallen into the river. Did get a view of Mt. Hinman.

I had lunch at the camp site that is about 1/4 from the bridge over the Foss River. While there I spotted some old mining relics. There were three parts from aerial tram cars used back in the late 1890's. Each part was date stamped, ""TI PAT May 18 1897"". But it is a mystery why they would be way up the Neckless Valley trail, since there were no mines in the area. There were mines at Trout Lake up the West Fork of the Foss River.

Only saw one other hiker the whole day, when I was coming back out. Not to much wildlife on this trip, only one chipmuck, a few birds, some butterflies and one daddy longlegs spider out for a hike (it was traveling light, no pack). There were several blown down trees along the way, but you can get over them, only one you have to go under. Check out this valley hike while the snow is still melting in the high county.

My brother and I arrived at the trailhead at 8:30 to partly cloudy skies, and on and off sprinkles all day. The trail is in decent shape. I would estimate about twenty blow-downs, all of which you can over or under wthout much effort. Only minor water and mud on the trail, and most of that in one stretch at about 4 miles. The first five miles to the river crossing are not steep at all. The bridge is damaged, but passable. The first mile after the bridge crossing is very steep. The snow begins at the 6th mile. We turned around shortly thereafter. The sun came out for thirty minutes as we began our descent, but from about mile 4 to mile 2 we were downpoured on. The wildflowers are many. The spring foliage is spectacular, especially the last mile or two before the bridge on the way in. The loudest woodpecker on earth lives near the swamp at about 2 miles. We thought someone was pounding large nails on a wooded hillside above the trail. Mosquitos were present, but not thick. The highlight of the day (for my brother anyway) was my postholing, heading back down in about two and a half feet of snow; and then falling, head first. It must have looked pretty funny, especially my pack rolling over my head. We saw no other hikers this day. I'm glad no one else saw that.

I went hiking Sunday with my friend Craig and Daisy the Spoiled Wonder Dog, and we went up the East Fork Foss river. After stopping at the Sultan Bakery for the world's best breakfast sandwiches and pastries, we parked at the Tonga Ridge road junction due to deepening snow and walked the half-mile to the regular trailhead. There was snow on the trail the whole way, starting at maybe six inches and increasing to about three feet at the more open sections after the 2,000ft level is reached. No snowshoes were needed, since there is a semi-packed trail to follow and the snow depth is inconsistent. It was a bit of a Cascade concrete trudge, probably 50% harder than the same hike in summer. We encountered some blowdowns and brushy obstacles, and even had to go hands-and-knees under one tree, but nothing too bad. I rejoiced at the Alpine Lakes Wilderness sign, which was about two miles into the hike. We came to a section of the trail that had a stream flowing on it, so we took a 15 minute trail-repair break. We dug some rocks, sticks and leaves out of the proper stream channel and used them to dam up the water coming down the trail, to marvelous effect. On our return later, the trail was dry and the stream had resumed its natural course. The open meadowy/swampy area was pretty cool, with wispy fog rolling down the valley. We went in to the three mile point from the regular trailhead where the best views of the valley are and took an hour break to take some pictures. We got back 3 1/2 miles to the car in just two hours, a Sluggish record for snow speed. We went seven miles in six hours, with about 800 VF gross round-trip. The weather was perfect- no rain and a little sun.

With the promising weather report and the season for backpacking nearing an end, I decided to spend two nights in Necklace Valley to do a little photography. The last time I had been there was when I was 10 years old with the family. This time I was alone. There was only one other car at the trailhead when I got there. The first 5 miles was easy hiking and beautiful fall colors still in the trees and on the ground. At the river crossing the effects of the tremendous rainfall we received was evident. Several good size logs had crashed into the bridge knocking part of the railing off and creating some tricky crossing. The bridge itself is still ok, but you have to navigate the logs that lie accross it(slippery when wet). After that the fun really begins with the character building climb over the rocky, rooty, and in places muddy trail for three steep miles to the valley. Passed the only other people on their way out, leaving me the only person up there. I continued on to Foehn Lakes to camp so I had a good vantage point to do some evening and morning photography. I wandered to Tank Lakes for dinner awaiting the sunset which was amazing. Alpenglow hit the peaks to the east making for some beautiful pictures and reflections in the enless ponds within the maze of granite. Well worth the pain inflicted by the climb. I was hoping for some aurora later that evening as predicted but I guess it wasn't to be. Woke up the next morning to watch and photograph the sunrise, then started going around the west side of La Bohn gap to reach Chain and La Bohn lakes. I attained a small saddle for a view north on my way and observed the buildup of lenticular clouds, together with high winds, and dissapearing peaks. My experience told me that weather was about to go down the toilet, so I scrambled down, packed up camp and headed out a day early for fear of hiking 10 miles back in the rain. When I got back to my truck, I learned that my instincts were correct, and that rain was to settle in the area by midnight. Can't wait to go back next year, but hopefully with one other person to share some of the load.

The Necklace Valley trail may well be the Grand Dame of Alpine Lakes Trails. It is also a bit like a long life well lived, but in reverse. Although the trail can be done in a day, three is probably best(with a Friday evening start?) , given the superb roaming country in the Valley and beyond. Manning and Spring list the distance as 8 miles one way, but the Green Trails totals out at 8.7, if I recall correctly. They are not all quick miles.

The trail starts out with a mellow climb on what appears to be an ancient rail grade - perhaps as old as 70 or 80 years based on the size of the trees growing on it. I in fact didn't even notice that it was a previous mechanical ROW until the return. This was confirmed by a few large cutting notches on a couple of very large stumps.

After leaving the graded section the trail does rollercoaster a little bit, but is still quite nice in the total five miles to the creek crossing. Fall color was begining today in the Vine Maple just about where the trail starts to open up. It has not started in the few Birch (?) groves yet. There are 3 River camps, and at this water level you could also camp on the sand and gravel bar at the river crossing.

After an easy river crossing (at this water level - probably is still bad at the peak of snow melt) the trail crosses a talus slope, beginning on a well prepared log, much like the bridge over the river. Seemingly this log path ends in the middle of a talus slope, with no further markings. Upon further inspection their is a path marked by talus and sawdust bearing slightly down canyon. The old trail is rejoined within 25 yards or so.

It is here where the trail gets steep, entering, following my metaphor, the hard grind of early adulthood. Vine Maples at the upper part of this section are in full fall color.

The trail flattens out for a short distance followed by a creek crossing. The toughest section of the trail begins, first rough and rambunctious as a teenager it gets worse as you go on - even getting as wet as a newborn at points - and putting you on all fours!

By the time you reach the Nesby bridge you have gotten through the worst long section, though there are still a few bad patches to come, as well as a bit more distance than you might think.

Jade Lake is finally reached. Day Hikers may view this as their destination, but it is really just the front door to a magnificent area.

I camped at the East Shore of Emerald and promptly fell asleep.

In the morning I had time for a short ramble and headed to the head of the Valley, returning via it's Eastern side and Clowdy and Ilwoot Lakes. Although the going is fairly straightforward to the lower end of Clowdy on the numerous foot paths in the Valley I did not discover a good path from Clowdy to Ilwoot. It may be possible to descend to Ilwoot over rocks, but then again your way might be blocked by cliffs. As it was I ended up bushwacking over a ridge and climbing down about 30' of pine needle covered cliff before reaching my camp. Clowdy Lake is worth visiting on the return from the upper valley, but I would recommend heading back to the main trail at the upper end of Opal, the third lake.

The return can be tough on the knees. On the descent trekking poles really earn their keep, cushioning the steep descent, as well as helping you to keep your footing. Many of the roots crossing the trail are pock marked with carbide tip punch marks the resemble woodpecker holes.

Oh, and yes, it is definitely worth it - and if it was ever fixed it would probably be mobbed to death.

-D.L.

I would not do this trip to visit only the Necklace Valley since the trail is downright long, dull, rooty, muddy and miserable. The lakes are not the greatest and neither are the views. Access to nicer areas make this hike worthwhile, however. Tank Lakes is as nice a place as The Alpine Lakes area offers the cross country roamer. At the end of the valley just below LaBohn Gap, go right and up rocks until reaching a valley containing the Pendant Glacier. You eventually reach a pass and wonderful parkland at about 5,800 ft. similer to The Enchantments. Dozens of small lakelets and granite slabs along with views across the Middle Fork valley to the Dutch Miller Gap area make this large plateau a magic wonderland. From the head of the valley,scramble up LaBohn Gap for a climb of mighty Mt. Hinnman. The valley is an o.k. place when the bugs are gone, but I see it as a great base for exploring.

The soft, shady five mile trail punctuated by the riffles of the East Fork Foss River lulls one into a false sense of comfort and ease that is swiftly dispelled as soon as the real approach to higher country is reached, soon after the river crossing on a well-constructed log bridge and a 100 meter talus slope marked with a few cairns. A reasonable, straight ahead trail for the next mile or so and then a brutal slog up a creek bed that is more strenuous than the Rachel Lake trail (which it somewhat resembles - tree roots, boulders, mud holes and all), by a factor of at least five. Although we admired the fortitude of Brad S. in the 9/3 trip report, this is obviously not a trek for day-trippers. It is a minimum 5 1/2 hour hike to Jade Lake. On this exquisite weekend, we saw only two souls, and the area felt very remote and lonely. We wondered whether a trail requiring this degree of effort is simply being out-competed by those more accessible. After Jade Lake we passed the Shelter Cabin (built in 1950 and still in good shape) and picked a campsite at Emerald Lake with views to La Bohn Gap and 7000' Bear's Breast Mountain at the head of the valley. ( Note: there is a well-hidden throne toilet just above the west side of the lake that we wish we had known about.) The valley itself is braided with fisherperson's paths to every possible site of water. Bug season is well past, but it was below freezing on this clear night and we could almost hear Mars pass in the night. The next day we followed the Necklace Valley trail to the terminus and ascended a rugged 300 meter talus slope to the southeast populated with firm granite blocks to the rock solid ice fields below Bear's Breast. Then more scrambling from ledge to ledge until we realized we had reached the Chain Lakes. This is magical territory of tarns and white granite. Had we explored further, we would have come across the archeological evidence of mining history, but espying the apparent route to the gap, we pushed ahead to the breakthrough views of Little Big Chief, Summit Chief and Overcoat, replete with glaciers. Almost immediately we came upon Williams Lake, surrounded by amphitheaters and fallen columns of granite like a ruined Roman city. We could have made it down a trail to Dutch Miller Gap if we had had a bit more time. This area really begs for roaming, and we regretted that we had to return from our weekend. From Emerald to Williams Lake took nearly two hours of travel and is not to be attempted in foul weather, but on this flawless day we felt truly rewarded. The route back to the trailhead was nearly as punishing as the approach and my intrepid partner took a painful spill on a wet log over a creek crossing at the bottom of the first talus slope on the way back to the flats. Watch it! In the darkening forest a pair of owls ushered us out. As tired as we were, we were amazed at our final human encounter with a 70 year old German man who was embarking on a near loop trip from Necklace Valley to Chetwoot Lake, Big Heart Lake and returning on the Foss Lakes Trail. We salute you, friend.

Great day to revisit Necklace Valley and LaBohn Gap. I had been here 3 or 4 yrs ago on a backpack, but this time was a Labor Day only stroll. However, now I know why I overnighted it the last time - this is a LONG stroll for a dayhike! Left TH # 1062 @ 7:30am, Foss R. log crossing about 10am, then huff it up the 'grind' - bring poles (and lots of water) to make it easier. Passed Jade Lk.,shelter cabin, Emerald Lk., then up to LaBohn Gap. Scramble up the scree (more like largish and sound granite) up to top of the Gap, then around the remaining small snow patch at saddle between Bears Breast Mtn. 2pm - admired view and lunch - then snooze till 3ish. Started trip back down @3:30. Back on the flats (log crossing point) at 5pm. Then the long 4.5 - 5 miles that seem like forever back down the valley. Back at TH 7:45 and that was at a good pace. Estimate 18+ miles RT for the day - I was beat! But the scenery is worth it.

Trail is in good condition, if a bit dusty from the endless dry summer - those twigs just 'snap' underfoot. The section going up into Necklace Valley in shady spots was tad muddy with creek runnoff. Sunny, warm (almost hot, 80's). Bugs minimal - near the end of their season I imagine.

I promised some folks (a dad, his 10-year-old son, and a couple more guys) we met coming down near Trout Lake that I would leave a report if we made it all the way over to Necklace Valley. We'll here's the report:

For years I have dreamed about making a loop trip from Copper Lake up and over to Necklace Valley. I have taken each of my sons (Rock Sushi - 16 & Rock Hopper - 13) on annual multi-day backpacking trips since they were about 7 or 8, always one son at a time. (Hint: That way I got two trips every summer :), and fantastic one-on-one time with each on my sons, plus I got to share their gear!)

This year's trip was the first time both boys and dad planned out a trip together. So when I suggested the loop trip from Copper to Necklace, they loved the idea. We took four days, Thursday to Sunday and approximately 25 miles. In 30 years of backpacking this was the most rewarding trip that I have ever taken…..Scenery, Challenge, Solitude, Route-Finding, and best of all Father-Son bonding.

After unloading our packs at the Copper Lake trailhead, my 16-year-old drove my truck back to the trailhead for Necklace Valley and then walked the 2 1/2 miles back to us. (Hey, he's young and strong!) The trek up to Copper is always hot under a noon sun but the real fun starts past Copper. Easy stroll up to Little Heart Lake and then up and over a ridge to Big Heart Lake, where there are a few decent camp sites. Only one other party at Big Heart and they packed up a 16 pound rubber raft!!!! While they had fresh trout for dinner we made it an early evening in anticipation of the next days adventures.

Contrary to the what the fisherman at Big Heart told us, ""the only way up to Chetwoot Lake is by boat to the end of Big Heart and then scramble over the ridge"" there is a very interesting trail up over the steep ridge down to a saddle, then up and down again to Chetwoot Lake (4905 ft). We had the entire basin to ourselves. While my 13-year fished, my other son made lunch and I studied the topos on the best cross-country route to Necklace Valley.

I decided to head up to about 5400 to 5600 feet and head East around a ridge then back up and down a draw to Little Chetwoot Lake (5400 ft). Nothing to technical, just a whole lot of boulder hopping and side hilling. We were able to get some incredible views down the valley north towards Azure and Angeline Lakes. From Little Chetwoot Lake you look SE up to Iron Cap Mt and the route we chose was again gaining elevation to between 5600 and 5800 feet, traversing around the North shoulder of the mountain, hopefully finding a suitable route through the cliff bands and then traversing SE to a saddle before gaining the final elevation up a ridge to the Tank Lakes area. There were a few scattered cairns along this route but mostly just route finding. The passage through the cliff bands along the NE side of Iron Cap was both very challenging and frightening, especially with two teenage sons and a wife to answer too! Once around the extremely steep sections and heading back SE across the huge boulder fields, a couple of minor snow fields, the route was easier and there were a few well placed cairns.

From the saddle, 5400 feet, there were incredible views of Mt Hinman and Mt Daniel. Unfortunately a weather system was pushing its way East directly towards us, so we took a short break and continued on. The route turns NE up a ridge, again tricky route finding, and then finally up to the desolate, granite filled basin on Tank Lakes. I initially told my sons that we would be having lunch at Tank Lakes. We left Big Heart Lake at 8:30 and did not reach Tank Lakes until 5:00! We headed through the saddle and dropped down to Foehn Lakes (5700 ft) and made camp at 6 PM. We had less than an hour and a half and the entire area was fogged in! Safely in our tents, after chocolate pudding for desert, we literally said our prayers and thanked the Lord for our safe passage. What appears on the map to be a relatively straight foward cross-country route of around 7 miles, was actually very challenging with some very difficult route finding and it took us 9 1/2 hours!.

The following morning brought more mist but after a leisurely breakfast we packed up and scrambled down to the head of Necklace Valley and visited a few of the lakes that my 16 year old and I had last visited when he was 11. We found our favorite campsite at Illswoot, spent a relaxing day fishing and laying around. After a fresh trout feast for dinner, more pudding, we laid on the big granite slabs and watched the stars, satellites, shooting stars, and the Milky Way light up the night sky.

Sunday morning brought more sunshine. My 13-year old had to jump off this 15-foot cliff into the lake before we headed out. His reasoning, ""Just think what a cool picture this is going to make!"" It was very cool especially after he hit the water!

By promising them Mexican food in Monroe, the 8 1/2-mile trip down and out the valley to my truck only took 3 1/2 hours. It was an incredible trip with my sons and an experience that we will share for a lifetime.

I took a couple days off work for a Thursday overnight trip to the Necklace Valley (I've wanted to get up there for about 20 years, but never made the trip…).

Mine was the third car in the trailhead parking lot on Wednesday. The first 5 miles of the trail are relatively flat with some ups and downs. A bit brushy in places and hungry black flies when the pace gets too slow, but a nice walk overall.

Then comes 3 miles up to the valley. Whoever designed this trail (was it designed by anyone??!?) obviously thought that switchbacks are for wimps. The trail turns vertical and scrambles up the mountainside. Up through rock piles, up through stream beds where occasional boot prints in the mud give encouragement that it's still the trail, up through overgrown brush. Up, up, up. You get the idea.

It took me 5 1/2 hours to make the hike up and 4 1/2 hours back down on Friday.

The Necklace valley is nice. Not as wonderful as I had expected, but that might be due to my exhaustion. Finding a camping spot was a challenge (though there were only two other parties up there), but I eventually stumbled onto the big rock camp spot halfway up Emerald Lake (after walking to the top of the valley in a futile search). The mosquitoes were very bad (not horrendous - I was able to eat outside the tent) and DEET seemed to confuse them.

I didn't see anyone at all during the entire hike and ramble around Necklace Valley until around 6pm in the evening. Then was lucky enough to borrow a lighter from one of the other campers (I left with the 10 essentials, ""A six pack and four other things"" - but somehow forgot to bring fire). Having hot chicken and noodles was much better than the canned chicken and Pringles(tm) that I was facing before borrowing the lighter…

During the night (at around 1:30am) there was a huge icefall/rockfall somewhere. The crashing and rumbling must have continued for a full minute. An awesome way to wake up in the middle of the night.

The hike down was brutal and I met a lot of adventurous souls on their way up (there were 10 cars in the trailhead lot when I finished). And 4 days later my calves are still yipping when I got on and off the bus this morning…

Easily one of my favorite hikes. 5th time: 3 times as a backpack, this was the second time as a day hike. Started out Sunday at 6am. About 12 vehicles- 3 suvs!- good to see some of them out hiking (or is it?) Had the trail to myself ( and cleared cobwebs) til just below Jade. Trail in good shape- used my hands in a few places below Jade- but I would not call it a ""pack trail"" as noted on the topo map. Just plodded along without really stopping, so the bugs seemed fine. Blueberries. Flowering Bear Grass. A slug and two snakes. Two dogs (one loud) at Jade Lake.

Went on up to LaBohn Lakes via the outlet route. Too relaxed to continue on up Hinman- plus the clouds seemed to be moving in and getting darker. Gazed over at LaBohn Gap, Bear's Breast, Chain Lakes, Chimney & Overcoat. Turned around at noon. No litter anywhere along the route. As always, those last five miles allow plenty of time for introspection. Trailhead at 5pm. I was met by someone needing jumper cables (second time in my last three trips!).

Spectacular views and mountain lake experience, after one trudges through a long, arduous ascent (Well, except for the ravenous hordes of mosquitoes at the top). Starts off in lovely, flat, wide, soft wooded trail, almost deceptively, until once begins a challenging ascent after crossing Foss River. Then the ""fun"" starts: muddy, rooty, rocky, steep, thus making a very slow trudge or ""slog"" as one descending hiker put it. When finally arriving at the string of jewel-like lakes making up the ""Necklace"" at the top, unfortunately we were attacked by swarms of mosquitoes. On the way up, everyone warned us to make sure we had lots of DEET. They were right. Matching the rather warm daytime temperatures was a rather chilly, near-freezing overnight. The views, serenity, rushing water at the top would make this trip even more successful when the 'squitoes have gone into some hopefully dormant state later in the summer.

Picked a good day for a long hike. The task of pulling on the boots at the trailhead took long enough for a cloud of mosquitoes to form. Hit the trail at 7:30 and promptly outran the bugs. The lower trail to the river is beautifully maintained (nice work pushing back the vegetation). As previously reported, the trail past the river gets steeper and is often quite muddy (although some pretty heroic trail work has been done here as well). It proved to have been a good idea to stop for a food break in the woods because the bugs were not too bad in the shade. Up at the lakes, near mid-day, the bugs were thick. Decided to push on to the LaBohn Tanks without lunch. The tanks are about another 1000 feet up. The first patch of snow I saw was at the far end of Opal Lake, near the upper end of the valley. Got to the waterfall at the end of the valley and decided to head around the rockfall on snow (swinging right, away from the waterfall) but found that the top snowbank was a little too steep for my liking (even with an ice ax in hand) and wound up traversing back to the falls on the rocks. From the top of the rockfall it is a distinctly airy-ish ascent along a faint boot tread that climbs beside the falls, with patches of steep snow (icy under an inch of corn) on route. The patches are small and will probably not last very long. The Tanks are just melting out with that peculiar blue-green glow of slowly warming tarns (and radiation vessels in science fiction movies). This stark and rather barren locale supported a pretty fair population of bugs. On return I really enjoyed a late lunch/early supper at a campsite about 50 feet above Opal Lake. However, a flannel shirt and a t-shirt was not enough, a cloud of mosquitoes arose from my back each time I shrugged my shoulders. DEET helped keep my arms and face clear, although it gave the apple an unattractive aftertaste. Headed down and got back to the car about 7:40. Curiously, there were no bugs at the trailhead. Having been gone from Washington for several years I decided to try a stop at Zekes, and although the fare isn't bad I'm still looking for a Good Food haven along Rt. 2.

At 9:30 AM Saturday I hit the Necklace Valley Trail, planning to hike as far as I could and still be back at the car by 4 PM. No other cars in the parking area-a perfect hike for solitude. Many creeks are rushing down across the trail to join Foss River, but there's no problem crossing any of them. Wet foilage hanging over the trail in the meadow areas got my boots and clothing temporarily soaked. Many wildflowers were in bloom, also saw several frogs jumping off the trail. Got to the log bridge to cross the Foss, and there standing on the bridge was a brown BEAR, looking down into the river! She didn't see me immediately, but then I backed away and she looked up, and ran off the opposite bank. I decided it was my turn-around time. Met two hikers comming in and alerted them of the bear. GREAT HIKE!

Why haven’t I hiked this trail before? I guess I figured it was “too far out of the way” but turns out it is a quick 4.2 miles from Hwy 2 and you’re ready to hike! I was very happy to see my dog Mittens get so excited at the trailhead in the rig. She almost couldn’t wait for me to get ready and loaded up with gear before letting her out! She is learning quickly….

The day was absolutely perfect for forest photography: thick overcast and occasional showers to make the lush green glow with life! There is no dirt in the Necklace Valley since the lush carpet of moss and flowers covers it all! I didn’t hike a step all day without having dozens of trilliums and yellow violets within view. We passed a huge herd of calypso orchids in full bloom at about milepost 1.5 and Mittens wondered why I came to a screeching halt and was looking through my cameras for the next 15 minutes! The moss covered rough sawn “boardwalks” were so beautiful as they winded through marshy areas filled with the huge leaves of the skunk cabbage plants. At three miles we passed the small lakes off of the river and by milepost 4 we were eating lunch down smack on an overlook of the mighty East Fork Foss River. The roaring torrent of the spring melt was so loud I was having a hard time hearing what all Mittens was trying to tell me! Ha ha ha. We turned back just prior to the river crossing at five miles as I knew we wouldn’t be trying to cross THIS river on a foot-log with a hyper 15-month old border collie in tow! Hiking back we both were re-energized from our break and food break (Mittens loves P&J sandwiches as much as I do!). We finally actually saw other humans on the trail when we got back about two miles from the trailhead as two middle aged ladies were on their annual hike up this lovely forest valley. Where were the people? This is one of the longest low elevation spring forest hikes available in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness and yet no one was using the trail the day before Memorial Day weekend? Strange.

We took one last long 30+ minute stop at the incredible mossy bridge over a huge creek about 1.5 miles from the trailhead as I photographed many angles of the bridge, the water, the waterfalls, the mossy rocks, and the lazy dog by the bridge. It was nice to see that both of us were ready to succeed at hiking eight miles together, and we should be well ready to tackle the summer and fall mega-trips for our next photo project together that will take us to all corners of the Northwest together over the next 15 months!

Got my first skeeter bite of the 2003 season also, which is well worth commemorating.

FLORA NOTED: (partial list) Western trillium Fairy bells Wild ginger Yellow violet Devils club Thimbleberry Salmonberry Twinflower

I managed to get my Subaru wagon up to the Tonga Ridge road junction, and probably could have driven farther, but why risk getting stuck to save a half of a mile? The snow ended soon after the summer trailhead was reached, and stayed snow-free for almost 2 miles. The snow kicked in again around the wilderness boundary. It was 6 inches deep at it's maximum. At about 3 to 3 1/2 miles from the car was a beautiful swampy, grassy meadow leading down towards the river. Only two other people were seen, and I was there all day. This is a much better winter hike when you don't have to walk almost two miles just to get to the trailhead. I started at 10 am and finished up at 4 pm, 6 hours to go 7 miles with a little bit of off-trail exploration thrown in also.