A delightful hike through ancient timber along the crystal-clear Dungeness River-save this one for a hot or rainy day. Quite possibly the easiest 3.4 miles of wilderness trail in the Olympics, the Upper Dungeness is ideal for introducing neophytes and youngsters to the backcountry. Handy dandy Camp Handy with its restored shelter provides cover on overcast days, allowing you to enjoy your lunch while droplets run down the cedar shingles.

The Upper Dungeness River Trail begins right beside the tumbling and crashing river, never letting it out of eyesight or earshot for the entire journey to Camp Handy. Through a magnificent stand of sentinel Douglas-firs-200 feet tall and several hundred years old-the trail is well sheltered. Embrace its air-conditioning effects on warm sunny days and embrace its protecting qualities on overcast ones.

A couple of times the trail comes close enough to the river to allow mesmerizing glances into its frothy cascading waters. After 1 meditative mile arrive at a junction. The trail right travels 6.5 miles along Royal Creek to Royal Lake. Turn left instead, crossing Royal Creek on a sturdy log bridge, and immediately enter the Buckhorn Wilderness.

Through cool glens of Doug-fir and hemlock, across numerous side creeks, and along seeps spawning salmonberries, the trail parallels the majestic river. Raucous rapids and placid pools entice you to slow down and marvel at the beauty. In 2.6 miles the trail crosses the river. In 2006 the log bridge sustained serious damage from winter runoff. Hopefully the Forest Service has replaced it. If not, cross with caution.

Once across, the trail pulls away from the river, the chattering of resident birds no longer drowned out by the thunderous waterway. At 3.2 miles reach an unmarked junction. Head right to a lovely meadow on the Dungeness, home to Camp Handy. If the weather is agreeable, head to the wide gravel bar for views and feet-soaking. If it's raining, take to the shelter. Be prepared, however, to fend off snack-sneaking chipmunks.