Geyser Valley is a misnomer: there aren't any geysers in this valley. The Press Expedition of 1889-90-that group of intrepid souls intent on exploring the Olympic interior-either mistook thumping grouse or swirling low clouds when they bestowed their geothermic moniker on this valley. But geyser or no, you won't be steaming after hiking this beautiful region of the Elwha Valley. Stroll alongside the Elwha River's churning waters and lounge on its grassy and rocky banks. Snoop around pioneer homesteads, and scope for elk and bear feeding in surrounding pastures. Wildlife and history spout from the Geyser Valley.

Start by heading down the Elwha River, a super-highway trail. This well-trodden path has been delivering visitors into the Olympic wilds ever since James Christie and company blazed a route across these parts well over a century ago. Begin by gently climbing thorough mature forest and then younger timber (thanks to a series of early twentieth-century fires).

At 0.8 mile a small spur leads right to the Elk Overlook. Here scan the mighty river flowing 500 feet below. The large grassy bend was once part of the Anderson Ranch homestead and is now a favorite grazing ground for resident elk. Continue through open forest, coming to a junction at 1.2 miles with the Rica Canyon Trail. Head right on it, dropping 500 feet in 0.5 mile through a 1970s fire-damaged forest to the river bottom. Take the short spur to Goblins Gate, a rocky narrow chasm funneling the Elwha's swiftly moving waters.

Now work your way upstream on the Geyser Valley Trail. Traverse meadows and fir groves. Rub shoulders with the churning river at wide bends and rocky ledges. At 2.7 miles come to the Krause Bottom Trail. The trail left climbs 0.5 mile back to the Elwha River Trail. Head right for more delightful riverside walking. At 3.4 miles you'll arrive at Humes Ranch on a grassy bluff. Inhabited until 1934, a small cabin still remains and has been restored by the Park Service.

A trail leads left back to the Elwha, but you have more valley to see. Continue right, dropping off of the bluff. Pass a campsite by a sprawling meadow, and then climb onto a high river bank that grants sweeping views of the river. Work your way across Antelope Creek, which may be tricky during rainy periods, and come to a junction with the Long Ridge Trail at 4 miles.

Before turning left and heading back to your vehicle, consider a 0.6-mile side trip on the Long Ridge Trail. Cross a huge recent mudslide swath, dropping to the Dodger Point Bridge at the mouth of the Grand Canyon of the Elwha. This deep, dark gorge is an impressive sight to behold.

To close the loop climb gently 1.3 miles along the Long Ridge Trail back to the Elwha River Trail at Michaels Cabin, a 1906 homestead. Continue left on the Elwha River Trail, ignoring all side trails to return to your vehicle in 2.3 miles.