If you only have time to do one of the trails framing Coldwater Lake, make it the South Coldwater Trail. The Lakes Trail on the north shore is a beautiful hike, but this hike is just the complete package. You've got the human history in the shape of volcano-mangled machinery. You have wildlife, in the form of frequently present elk (and small critters are always underfoot if the big wapiti are being bashful). You've got the volcanic landscape, and of course, you have a respectable elevation gain to get your blood flowing, letting you know you are hiking in the Cascades, after all.

The trail leaves the trailhead with a brief downhill swing then rockets upward, climbing the long, tapered nose of the Coldwater Ridge. The trail builders made a half-hearted attempt to add a few switchbacks, but mostly the trail just swings to and fro, climbing steadily but not too steeply all the while. As you ascend, you'll be amazed at the different things going on in the recovery. Grasses, wildflowers, and bushes are well entrenched now, and with that greenery in place, the elk have thundered back into the region. They seem to love this ridge, too, so keep your voices low, and you might enjoy some four-legged companionship on the route. If not, don't worry; you won't be bored.

At about 3 miles out from the trailhead, you'll come across a rustic hulk of metal. This is an old steel-tracked logging tractor that got caught in the eruption-it was actually thrown to this location from somewhere farther up toward the main body of Mount St. Helens.

Climbing past the tractor, you'll swing around to the south, climbing up to a broad saddle on the flank of Coldwater Mountain. This is our destination. Coldwater Saddle sits at the 5-mile mark, the perfect place to enjoy the views, and then turn around for the walk home.