An arduous hike to one of the most spectacular mountain passes in the Olympics- Appleton Pass sits a mile high on the Elwha-Sol Duc divide. Offering glimpses of peaks, forested valleys, and thousands of acres of wilderness in both watersheds, Appleton Pass is a remote outpost in the heart of the Olympics. On the demanding journey there, encounter resplendent meadows, primeval forest, and captivating cascades. But even if you're not up for this laborious trip, just a few miles along this trail still has its rewards.

Start off on a long-abandoned section of the Olympic Hot Springs Road. The paved but rapidly crumbling road travels 2.3 miles to a junction at Boulder Creek Camp. The Olympic Hot Springs are just a short distance to the left, and you may want to consider soaking in them after your return. But skip the idea in the summer-you won't find space, and your aching body doesn't need to fight off a viral attack while it's recovering.

Continue right, through campsites to the start of bona fide trail. At 0.8 mile come to a junction for Boulder Lake. Continue left through imposing ancient firs, cedars, and hemlocks. The forest has a dry feel, as Mount Appleton and the Bailey Range create a bit of a rainshadow effect here on their eastern sides.

About 0.75 mile beyond the junction, the trail crosses North Fork Boulder Creek, which is prone to jumping its channel. You may have to negotiate a few washed-out areas before actually crossing the creek.

In another 0.5 mile two short side trails lead left to pretty little Boulder Falls, a series of cascades set in a mossy ravine. This is a good destination for hikers not intent on going all the way to Appleton Pass. A handful of swimming holes beneath the lower falls may be tempting, but remember, they ain't no hot springs!

Beyond the falls, the trail crosses the creek and climbs more steeply. Traversing a deep rugged valley, forest cover thins, allowing previews of what lies ahead. Bubbling springs and copious huckleberry bushes may entice you to abandon your strenuous march.

After about 5.5 miles the trail enters an open basin, getting rougher while the views get better. Look back at Lizard Head Peak; Mount Appleton looms above. Dazzling wildflowers paint the basin in reds, purples, and yellows, and numerous creeks tumble down the rugged encircling slopes.

The trail makes a few steep and sweeping switchbacks through clumps of mountain hemlock and sprawling meadows, finally arriving at the 5050-foot pass after 7.5 grueling miles.